Shaandaar Sikkim!!

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#1 May 12th, 2018, 14:14
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#1
March 2018 beginning!
A short trip to Calcutta or the now Kolkata was the only thing on mind!! If we are going to Kolkata, why not extend our trip for a couple of days more and visit some place - hubby's suggestion!! Laalchi (greedy ) that I am for more travels, my prompt reply - Yes, we should! I was hoping of may be extending my stay in Kolkata by 2/3 more days and visit some nearby places and loads of shopping!! .

But, within seconds hubby mentions why not visit 'Sikkim'!! Well, I couldn't believe my ears! Sikkim? That was nowhere on my mind at that moment! But remember 'laalchi' word? Yes, Yes, we have to. Sikkim is beautiful. So the trip will be by April end and May first week, right, I queried. Yes, that gives us good time to plan and book tickets - hubby's reply! What else, a family vacation was decided like this!! I didn't waste any time - that goes without saying!! Travel season, Weather, places to visit had to be checked and processing the bookings were to be done!! I swung into action and what did I do? Post for suggestions promptly here on IM!!!

Got most useful feedback from arupratan ghosh and Govindpuri and offline suggestions from iamsomnath!! Thanks a bunch to all of you! I had a wonderful trip and here I am posting my TR.

By the end of March, most of the details and bookings were done!!


April End - Trip Begins!

Trip Route:
Mumbai-Kolkata (flight)
(stayed in Kolkata for 3 nights and attended to some personal work and did a bit of driving around local places of interest)
Kolkata to Bagdogra (Flight)
Bagdogra - Icchegaon - Lungthung - Gnathang (Old Silk route)
Gnathang to Gangtok (planned route was via Kupup - Tsomgo - Gangtok. But unfortunately the route via Kupup was closed due to heavy snowfall) Hence we drove all the way back via Lungthung - Rangpo - singtam - Gangtok
From Gangtok we visited a few places.
Finally From Gangtok drove back to Bagdogra to catch the afternoon flight to Mumbai via Kolkata.

Concise trip route:
Mumbai - Kolkata - Bagdogra - Icchegaon - Lungthung - Gnathang - Gangtok - Bagdogra - Mumbai (via Kolkata)

The total number of days for this Sikkim trip was 8- May 01 till May 08, 2018.
Our stays were as follows:
Icchegaon - 1 night - Marigold Homestay - booked with details available on the net
Lungthung - 1 night - Springvale Homestay - booked with details available on the net
Gnathang - 1 night - Dafter Bunglow - booked with details available on the net
Gangtok - 4 nights - La Ttakshang Hotel and Spa - booked online through Agoda website.

About the transportation! We had hired a Bolero for all the 8 days of our stay. Booked the vehicle as soon as the plan was finalised, by mid March, that is. Of course, I would like to write in detail about the vehicle and the driver in the coming posts. I am sure it would be helpful to many a travelers.

For now, friends, fasten your seal belts!! You are on a flight From Kolkata to Bagdogra!!

Loved the Departure Lounge of the airport in Kolkata!
Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport!



Floating on the clouds, quite literally!



Somewhere closer to Bagdogra!!



You have arrived in Bagdogra!!



BTW - for all those who are not aware of the Hindi word 'shaandaar' and wondering what it would mean - It's an adjective used to describe or praise an action, place or anything that is beautiful,splendid, marvellous, elegant!! Sikkim is all that and much more!!
#2 May 12th, 2018, 14:22
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#2
Wonderful ! Following
#3 May 12th, 2018, 16:27
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#3
Yes, have fastened our "seal belt" to enjoy the shaandaar report...
#4 May 12th, 2018, 17:51
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#4
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Originally Posted by arupratan ghosh View Post Wonderful ! Following
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prakaant View Post Yes, have fastened our "seal belt" to enjoy the shaandaar report...
Thanks, arupratan ghosh and Prakaant!! I hope I can complete this soon!! Hardly do I write these days and off late I have been losing interest in processing the pics I click!!

At least to post the pics here, I hope I will process them fast and write a bit about the trip too!
#5 May 13th, 2018, 13:30
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#5
Shandaar Naveena !
#6 May 13th, 2018, 16:34
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#6

Transportation - The vehicle and the driver!

The Flight from Kolkata to Bagdogra was a comfortable one and within 45 minutes we had landed in Bagdogra airport!

Time to write about our mode of transportation for the next 8 days! It was decided that we needed to have a vehicle at our disposal for all the days of our trip and then after some googling felt that a Bolero was a good choice. Checked on the net for some tours and travels online to book our vehicle and in the meantime, received some useful feedback from our dear friend SG about a good driver for silk route. I must say he is quite a popular driver and I could easily get his contact details on the net.

Some details I need to write about the driver!

Tikaram!! Realised that he is more popular in the homestays by the name of Tika! He is familiar with the old silk route and is a very good and safe driver. I spoke to him in March and booked him for all the 8 days. I gave him a very detailed explanation about my trip and the places of interest and my keen interest in photography. He readily agreed and said he would block his dates during our trip. I was told that he had a big vehicle! Well, how big I wasn't sure. Initial talks were mostly about the places we were visiting and the route we would take. Everything seemed seamless. He even denied to accept any advance payment.

Now, for some detailed info!!

Once I booked him for the vehicle, I gathered some info from him about the places to stay in the silk route! I was keen on Sillery Gaon and further ahead. But he mentioned Icchegaon would be better as the road to Sillerygaon was in really bad condition. I thought that was a wise decision. The homestay option in Icchegaon and the contact person was what Tikaram suggested. I called up and booked the stay and also paid the advance for homestay. I was given the homestay details for Aritar, Zuluk, and Nathang too, by Tika.

Somehow The Zuluk option did not workout as the person was not responding promptly! At this point, I tried to check the places on Google Map and saw that all these places were quite close to each other and did not require spending 1 night at each of these places.

It was time to take a call. A bit of time spent on the net yielded other stay options. Lungthung and Gnathang would be the places, I decided. I promptly made my bookings at the homestay in Lungthung and chose Dafter Bungalow for Gnathang. Once these 3 stay options were finalised, I called up Tika again and updated him about the details. He was surprised that we were spending only 3 nts in Silk route and insisted that we don't book for Gangtok stay as that would be easily available later. I felt at that time that it was just ok and did not make any reservations. Of course, I made quite a few enquiries and made a list of hotels in Gangtok (with their contact details, tariff) in case I needed it later.

Well, Even in the first week of April, the trip and planning seemed to be perfectly ok. I had talked to Tika once again and told him about the places, the vehicle requirement from pickup till drop back to the airport and every other details. He was very enthusiastic and he said he would take care of everything and we were not supposed to bother about anything. Of course now, he said the vehicle he had was Mahindra Savaari and it was a bit big vehicle!! Suddenly, I was a bit apprehensive about the vehicle! It is a 14 seater he said. 14 seater for 3 of us? That is a bit too big, I felt!! Had to discuss the issue with my hubby. A couple of days passsed by in a state of confusion! We were not very enthusiastic about traveling in that vehicle.

A bit of enquiry here and there and then a call to Tika and after some discussion, we finally agreed that it would be OK to travel in his Savaari. But I did suggest him to check if any Bolero or Innova would be available for the trip. A week before the trip, Tika called up and said he could manage to get a Bolero for our travel dates! Well, finally everything was settled. The total amount of expenses for the vehicle and the driver's allowance was Rupees Thirty Five thousand.That was the amount Tika quoted and I didn't bargain. So, it was final!!

True to his words, Tika was in time at the Bagdogra airport to pick us up!! A neat and clean Bolero and a smiling Tika. We were glad. We covered the Silk route as per our plans.

Icchegaon, Lungthung: Done!
On our way from Lungthung towards Gnathang, during our casual talk, I enquired the route about our next day's journey from Gnathang and the points of interest we would cover. Tika casually told that we would pass through the Old Baba Mandir, Nathula and Tsomgo lake and drive to Gangtok for 1 night stay. I corrected him and mentioned that we would stay we would make a 2 nights halt in Gangtok and that we would not just 'pass' by Nathu La but would visit the place and spend time there!!

Tika: "yes, yes, Madam! We will go towards the gate and then drive towards Gangtok. On the way we will go to Tsomgu lake'.
Me: "Gate? What Gate?"
Tika: "Nathu La, Gate, Madam".
Me: "We have not come here to go to the gate. By the way where do the tourists go when they come to visit Nathu La'?
Tika: "Woh madam, It's just a bit further. People go there to see snow. You don't worry, you will get to see the snow in Gnathang. Gnathang is full of snow".
Me: "No, I want to see Indo-china border. Is there any place where that can be seen"?

By now, the environment in the vehicle was a bit tensed as I seemed to be a bit stern in my talk with Tika. My hubby was silently listening to our conversation. Daughter sitting next to me whispered to me, aren't we going to the Nathu La then? Tika was visibly shaken up a bit with my direct queries! He managed to give a wry smile and tried much more to convince me that there was nothing in Nathu La! At this point, I was absolutely sure that some details were missing and something was not going as per my plans!! I made it very clear that we would definitely not go just near the gate but would go inside and visit the place where everybody would go!!

Tika:"Madam, you will need a permit to visit Nathu La'.
Me: "What"?
Tika: "Permit. It is issued in Gangtok"!
Me (Absolutely shocked and disgusted): "Tika ji, I must have spoken to you at least 5 times in the past one and half months about each and every detail. I have enquired about all the permits and payments for each of them. You said you would take care of everything and never mentioned about Nathu La permit"!!
Tika: "Oh, Madam, I didn't tell you? Mistake ho gaya madam!! I thought I had told you! Anyway, we will go towards the gate na Madam. Nothing much is there. So don't worry! We will then go to Gangtok!!
Me (Well, one can imagine my tone and the strict manner in which I told him) - "Nothing doing! We are going inside. We will get the permits from Gangtok, if have to have that! What is the procedure"?
Tika (totally shaken): "Madam, it will take 7 to 8 Days to get the permits. It is a bit difficult to get it now, Madam.

I don't think I have ever felt that helpless in any situation as much as I felt that moment - No permits for Nathu La! We are in the middle of our drive towards Gnathang. Phone network was left behind 2 days back. No chance of internet connectivity, 2 sets of curious and angry eyes (hubby and daughter's) staring at me!!!!!The next day we are supposed to drive in front of Nathu La gate and we wouldn't go inside to see what is there! This was the condition inside the vehicle.

I think ageing and the patience that comes with it is what that comes in handy at such times!! For a moment I was all set to raise my voice and give Tika an earful. But it took only a few seconds to just calm down!

Me:"Tika ji, we have completed 2 nights of our stay in Sikkim. 3rd night is in Gnathang. After that we drive to Gangtok and we have 4 nights at our disposal. We are not proceeding anywhere else. we are going to make sure that we get the permits to Nathu La. My further plans to travel anywhere else will depend only on my Nathu La visit. So just be prepared'!

Tika: Silence!!

Well, there's definitely more!!
I would have loved to write and post all the pictures of the trip immediately. But this experience was somewhat weird and had to be written in detail before I happily proceeded writing about the places.

Since that day, I have been thinking about these questions in my head over and over agian!!

Was it my bad planning?
Wasn't I careful enough to check what where all the permits would be required?
was I blindly taking everything for granted?
Could I afford to be so careless in planning a trip to place where nothing was familiar?
Finally, is it always better to plan the trip to such unfamiliar and unknown places through a proper 'travel planner/travel agent', who will take care of all the details?

Another interesting conversation in my next post!!

For now, look at this tum tum (rickshaw), on the streets of Silguri!!

#7 May 13th, 2018, 16:48
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#7
This tika twist in the story is too teekha , look forward to next episode....
#8 May 13th, 2018, 17:01
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#8
Yikes, tricky Tika brings back memories of squabbling in Sikkim with incompetent "guides".
#9 May 13th, 2018, 17:25
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#9
Interesting & sharp twist in the opening of the story!

Nail biting and dip breathing to see the next episode...
#10 May 14th, 2018, 23:52
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#10
Quote:
Originally Posted by vaibhav_arora View Post This tika twist in the story is too teekha , look forward to next episode....
He, indeed, turned out to be Teekha Tika.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theyyamdancer View Post Yikes, tricky Tika brings back memories of squabbling in Sikkim with incompetent "guides".
Seems like all of us have had something to think about from our trips to Sikkim!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prakaant View Post Interesting & sharp twist in the opening of the story!

Nail biting and dip breathing to see the next episode...
Hahahaa!

Will try to post Tikaram ki kahaani - Second and last part - tomorrow!
#11 May 15th, 2018, 00:02
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#11
Eagerly waiting to hear Tikaram ki "Tikhi" Kahaani...
#12 May 15th, 2018, 18:31
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#12

Teekha Saga continues

Well, We were heading to Gnathang on Old silk route when the Nathu La permit episode had taken place. That did disturb me a bit but then we had a great drive to Gnathang. Somewhere I felt, Tikaram wasn't very happy with my strong will to not travel anywhere else in case Nathu La visit could not be managed. This became apparent as we reached Gnathang by afternoon.

Luggage from the vehicle shifted to the room. A whole lot gloomy day as it was drizzling...it was snowing!!
Tika: Madam, in the evening you can walk around this place. A small monastery is very close by. Only one road to walk here. BTW, tomorrow morning we will leave a bit early we need to drive to Gangtok and it is snowing. It will take some time to reach Gangtok.
Me: "Ok, no problem. Anyway there is no hurry to reach Gangtok. We can drive at a leisure pace. We have lot of time in Gangtok as we are staying there for a couple of days".
Tika: "Madam, you don't have much to do in Gangtok. this and that point. we will finish Tsomgu lake while going tomorrow. So we can just leave Gangtok in 1 night and we can travel to Yakten. There a good homestay. Nautre is beautiful there!"
Me: "No, Tika ji. As per my original plan, 2 nights were planned for Gangtok. Now that Nathu La permit problem is there, I am in no mood to travel further anywhere else. I don't have Gangtok hotel booking. There is no net here. I can't check the details about Nathu La or Gangtok hotel bookings today. The minute I get the network back while driving towards Gangtok, I will check the entire details and will decide further. For now, you can take it easy. Rest we will talk tomorrow."
Tika: "OK, Madam. But you know, in Gangtok big vehicles cannot go inside the city. We will have to stay somewhere outside"
Me: Silence!!
Tika: "Actually, you remember, I had told you that big vehicles cannot enter Gangtok? Bohoth Traffic jam hoti hai. (Massive traffic jams happen in Gangtok). So big vehicles are not allowed."
Me: NO
, you had definitely not said that big vehicles are not allowed in Gangtok. What do you mean by big vehicles. We are travelling in Bolero, right! You mean to say Bolero or any bus is not allowed in Gangtok? How come you are telling us this now? You had been booked for all 8 days and you knew very well that we were satying in Gangtok for 2 nights, right?"
Tika: Stupidly smiling, "madam, traffic rules are very strict in Gangtok. They don't allow the big vehicles at all. It is very difficult to stay there. You can stay outside and hire small vehicles to go to the market and visit the other places."
Me: "Oh, really? You mean to say that We will stay outside somewhere. You will be in the vehicle the whole day. We will hire one more vehicle to travel locally in Gangtok because big vehicles are not allowed?"
Tika: "Madam, I had told you. Even hotels in Gangtok don't have parking place. They don't allow parking of big vehicles."
Me: "Tika ji, I think you have given enough shocks for one day! I think we will not think about Gangtok today. We are going to enjoy our stay here today and about Gangtok, I will decide once I get the phone network and access to internet! You please go and rest".
Tika: Definitely a bit sadly "OK"!!

The Third Night is Gnathang passes peacefully. By morning 6 I am up and packing in progress. I hear the knock on the door and there stood our "Teekha Tika"!!

Tika: "Madam, we will have to leave early. It hass snowed the whole night so the road towards Gangtok via Kupup (our planned return route to Gangtok where in we would visit Nathu La, Tsomgu Lake etc) could be closed."
Me: Calmly, "OK. We will leave as soon as you are ready. I am through with packing and once we have oour tea, we can start".

Within half an hour we are comfortably sitting in the vehicle all set to leave. But one other interesting conversation between me and the lady who manages the Dafter Bunglow food/cooking department is very important at this stage.

Me: "Ok, aunty. We are leaving for Gangtok. We liked our stay in Dafter Bunglow. Thank you so much".
Old Lady: "Oh, I am happy you liked. Take care. It has snowed a lot. It will be very cold. But you know what, you are going towards Gangtok. Once you check about the road towards Kupup here near the check post, whatever the driver says, don't worry. Insist that you drive to Kupup check post and find out the condition of the roads there. Don't sdecide anything here. OK?"
Me: Absolutely confused and surprised, thinking to myself - Why would that lady tell me all these? What or how does she know what the driver is going to tell me once we start?
My daughter who was standing next to me didn't much show any interest in our conversation and had elbowed me to get into the vehicle then.

What else, we drive to the road end, and Tika gets down to enquire about the road conditions in the Gnathang check post. I sit idle and click this blur image of the picket post from inside the Bolero.

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Withing a minute Tika returns and surprise surprise, says, "Madam, Gadbad ho gaya. They say that Kupup road is cosed. It has been snowing all night. The army will not allow us to go that side."

Me: "So going towards Nathu La, Tsomgu is not possible?"
Tika: "The road is closed Madam ji".
Me: "I know. Road to Gangtok is closed. We definitely can't stay here in Gnathang. We have already checked out. I don't want to stay in any other place. We are driving to Gangtok in the same road we came to gnathang. Don't worry. We will drive all the way to Lungthung and then Padamchen and then towards Gangtok."
Tika: A bit happily I felt, "Ok Madamji. You know, in hill stations, the weather keeps changing every minute. Its very unpredictable. Now, we have to drive a long route. We will reach Gangtok very late. See, how much fuel expenses for me too. But then, I am there, Madam. I have promised you so it's OK. we will take the longer route and reach Gangtok.
Me: "OK. Let's drive".

Next half an hour goes by peacefully. But, not more than half an hour, mind you.
Tika: "Madam, you don't have any booking in Gangtok hotel. We cannot enter the city. We will stay somewhere outside. You don't worry, we will get some placec to stay."
Me: "Tikaji, when do you think we will get the phone network.?"
Tika: "Bas abhi Rongli pohonchte hi you will get the network. Nothing to worry."
Me: "ok, then. The minute I get the network, I will book the hotel in Gangtok and make necessary enquiries for Nathu La".

Absolute silence suddenly in the vehicle, even as we drive.

After 10 minute, a bit recovered Tika, "Madam, we cannot stay inside Gangtok. Gaadi parking nahi milega. And you know, the drivers are not given any stay option there. We will have to make our arrangements. So it is better we stay somewhere outside."
Me: "Tikaji, we are staying in a good hotel in Gangtok, that is all I can say now."
Tika: "Madam, actually Homestays offers us the place to spend night and also food to eat. In Gangtok we need to make our own arrangements. Why unnecessarily spend 1000 - 1500 on me. We can stay elsewhere".
Me: Absolutely stunned!! "What do you mean we need to spend? When I booked you, you remember I asked your charges inclusive of everything. I had particularly asked you about the entire expenses per day. You very clearly mentioned 5k with the vehicle and that you would take care of all the permit charges, your stay and the vehicle hire charges would be included. What is this new addition of staying outside Gangtok, hotel stay expenses etc? I think you have not given me the complete details of the trip and the expenses. I am not happy about the talks we are having!"
Tika: "Oh madam, aise kuch nahi hai. See big vehicles are not allowed hence we need to stay elsewhere. I have agreed to stay for all the 8 days. So I will definitely be there. Aapko kuch bhi takleef nahi hoga. (you will not face any difficulty)."
Me: "I am not talking anything right now. Once I get the mobile network, I will do the talking"!

I decided enough was enough and did not wait for the phone network. Drafted an sms about my requirement for a good hotel in Gangtok, the enquiries to be made for Nathu La permit and sent them to a couple of reliable friends immediately. Let them get the message whenever the network resumes, I thought.

The drive is smooth. We enjoy the vistas...through our "long" drive!!

Even before we reach Rongli, my mobile beeps. Sms received - 1, 2, 3, 4....8 messages. I get the entire details for Nathula permit procedure. Gangtok hotel list and friend mentioning, if you need me to book the hotel room online, just say yes. Will make the booking and SMS you the booking ID, don't worry.

Can anybody imagine how big a sigh of relief I let out? I almost yelled...YES!!!
A two minute discussion about the hotels with my hubby and daughter my reply was already on it's way to my friend. "Book the room! Thanks for the other details, the minute I reach Gangtok will process the permit bookings."

Tika understood with my busy activity with the mobile and the discussions that I was up to something. But he dared not ask me what the discussion was all about! Once I was done with my bookings, I turned to Tika and then the conversation once again began.

Me: "Tikaji, how many days does the permit procuring procedure take?"
Tiak: "Madam, woh dekhna padega"!!
Me:"Well, there is nothing to see. You said it takes 7/8 days. I have enquired. It takes 1 day. Here are the details. I have a person who is already saying that if the documents are submitted today evening by tomorrow evening I will know the status and the day after, I will have the permits in my hand."
Tika: "Oh, accha"?
Me: "And what did you say about the Nathu La gate visit. There is nothing much inside. Baraf dikhta hai bas!! Well, The main point is 3 kms inside, after the permit is checked at the Gate. At the main point, the army is stationed,. Indo-China border is visible"!
Tika: Red in face, "Oh ok" Madam.
Me: "Hotel booking hua hai. We are staying in a hotel on Kazi Road."
Tika: "Oh Madam, Vehicle ka problem ho jayega".
Me: politely but firmly, "Tikaji, I am paying you 5k and I did not even argue when you quoted your price. You have been hiding facts. I am told that vehicles like Innova are available and move freely in Gangtok. In fact only bigger vehicles are allowed at Nathuh La. Traffic rules are strict but it's not like big vehicles are not at all allowed. What is this all about? You are constatly telling something which is totally untrue!"
Tika: "Actually, Madam, only certain RTO registration vehicles are allowed in Gangtok. My vehicle is not allowed!"!!!!!
MeThat was the last straw that broke the camel's back) "What!! You mean to say our vehicle has no permit to enter Gangtok?"
Tika: sheepishly grinning - ""Madam, my vehicle is Old silk route registration. Only Z registration can enter Gangtok. I was telling you that we could not enter the city".
Me: "Oh no. Absolutely NO. You did not say anything about your Old silk route registration. You did not tell me anything about you vehicle not having permit to enter Gangtok. You were repeating that we need to stay at homestay. We need to hire a small vehicle to move around in Gangtok. My friend who has made hotel bookings and enquiry about Nathu La permit is an officer. I am getting all the information from him. you have been concealing all the information and giving wrong information to us."

With the mobile network restored and my friend's help in digging out all the information, I was suitably armed with lot of information. Half way thru the drive to Gangtok, many things were clear. I had made up my mind. I would make sure that onec we reached Gangtok and shifted to the hotel, I would ask Tikaram to leave. But then, the minute I told him that my friend in Gangtok was an officer and everything would be clear once I met him, things changed drastically.

Tika: "Madam, lets do one thing. I will make sure you comforatably reach the hotel in Gangtok. You will get many vehicles to move around in Gangtok and also for the airport drop. I have been with you for 4 days of the trip. You can settle the amount. I will leave. That way there will be no expenses for me also for the hotel stay"!

Me: "Well, you said it. Let's first reach the hotel."

Next 2 hours, we heard only how simple and uneducated the people are in Sikkim. "We don't like to cheat people. we are very simple. We are not much educated, you know madam. we work very hard. I hope you like all the places you travelled with me. Isn't it madam? I am really really sorry if there was any confusion. I am really sorry if I have caused any inconvenience. I hope you have enjoyed your trip until now. You know how much expenses I have incurred madam. We took a long route to come to Gangtok today. But I am not at all complaining madam. It's my job. You have to reach Gangtok safely. You have trusted me and I want to make sure you reach comfortably!".....Guess who talked so much!!

As we got down from the bolero and shifted into a WagonR with all our luggages, I paid Rs. 500 more than what was agreed. I told Tika that we enjoyed our trip with him but he should never conceal facts with his guests! Bid him goodbye and drove to the hotel!!

Tikaram in Light blue shirt!! One pic as we bid goodbye to him.



Sikkim ki Jai ho!! Whatever the confusion and our tensions, we made sure we had a great stay wherever we went. Enjoyed every bit. So the photos will be posted from my next post onwards.
#13 May 15th, 2018, 19:51
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#13
Eagerly waiting for the photos.

Ronak.
#14 May 15th, 2018, 20:04
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#14
Oh Naveena , what a fiasco !!! I'm feeling particularly bad because I suggested Tika to you. In 2014 he was a completely different man . I am astonished at how much he has changed !!! I hope that you could enjoy the pristine nature as much as the situation allowed you. Waiting for the pics. And have enjoyed the conversation part , awesome detailing and great drama , though unwanted. :-p
#15 May 15th, 2018, 20:42
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#15
Hope, you enjoyed rest of the trip with new vehicle and new driver...
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