Climbing Kang Yatse

#1 May 23rd, 2011, 15:09
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  • kiwiclark is offline
#1
I'm trying to find information on the ascent of Kang Yatse. From what I can gather the lower peak is a non-technical climb but I am also of the understanding that there is some glaciation involved on this route - is this the case? Anyone know whether this can be avoided or how serious the glaciation is? I have many years mountaineering experience in NZ, just not sure how it compares.

Thanks
#2 May 24th, 2011, 17:00
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  • sbballer33 is offline
#2
Climbing the lower peak is non-technical its essentially a long climb up a snow covered glaciated slope (not positive but I don't believe there are any major crevasses to worry about either), Crampons and an ice axe would do the job even just crampons and a trekking pole. The true summit requires the traversing of a narrow ridge and ropes harnesses and mountaineering experience is a must. I've never climbed it myself but this what I've been told from locals and what I've observed of the mountain itself. I climbed a ~6000 m peak opposite it. A view of Kang Yatse from that peak is here: http://www.micahimages.com/blog/?p=270

You can't see the lower peak but its behind the main visible peak to the right. The approach is basically along that snow slope that comes off the right side of the peak though the actual route is behind it. Here is another view of the peak:
http://www.micahimages.com/journal_w..._0205small.jpg

You can see the lower peak to the front right of the main peak and the snow/glacier slope that you need to climb. You can also see the ridge that you would need to traverse to reach the true peak, though not very well.

That picture is taken from series of picture I took while hiked from Phanjila to Hemis, full series and journal entry is here:
http://www.micahimages.com/journal_w...jila-to-hemis/

When agencies market the accent of Kang Yatse they almost always mean the lower peak.
#3 May 26th, 2011, 04:23
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  • captain bruce is offline
#3
Do a bit of googling and you should turn up a few pics more.
You could try Dzo Jongo which, again, is a snow slope/walk.
#4 May 28th, 2011, 04:27
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#4
Cheers, thanks for that. I've done as much internet research as possible, was just the level of glaciation that I couldn't quite fathom. Cheers.
#5 Mar 31st, 2017, 11:36
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  • maryjane is offline
#5
We attempted this peak in September 2016. We had earlier attempted KY 2 (the lower peak) and given up because of bad weather.
KY 1 (the higher peak) is a very different climb from KY2, which is essentially a long walk on snow and ice.
Our ABC was at 5500 m on a glacier. After this, it was a long rock climb. There was no snow or ice anywhere on the route we took. Most of the route involved scampering over rocks. The climbing itself was not very difficult. We were occasionally using our hands. But the whole face was very unstable. If you are climbing as a team, there is a good chance of loose rocks and stones coming down on you.
The other factor is the weather. Now I have spent 7 days at KY base camp over 2 expeditions. It has rained or snowed on all 7 days that I have been there. You really have a narrow window to climb.
We started from ABC at 5 am. We could not leave earlier because of bad weather. We ascended close to 500 metres in about 5 hours. There was still another 400 metres to go when we gave up. This is because we knew it's going to take a long time to get to the summit and then come down to base camp. We did not want to be on the mountain in the evening in that weather.
And there is only 1 place on the entire route to put some kind of a camp (Camp 1) after ABC.
Overall, KY1, at least on the route we had taken, has little or no snow or ice. The entire route after ABC is rocky and unstable. The weather is unstable most of the times. And you need strong logistical support to be able to set up a camp 1. Without camp 1, you have to be really lucky weather wise to be able to make it to the top.
#6 Jun 23rd, 2018, 12:39
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  • Txus is offline
#6

meeting agency to trek

Hello Maryjane. My name is Txus. I will go to LAdakh this september.
Coul you say me which what agency you made the trek?

Thanks
#7 Jun 23rd, 2018, 17:04
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  • maryjane is offline
#7
Rimo expedition

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