A heaven called Corbett

#1 Dec 1st, 2009, 19:44
Join Date:
Nov 2009
  • akshaykakkar is offline
Yeah some of the things i love!
done with the holiday planning for this year.. somehow it just reminds me of the holiday last year..
It just feels like yesterday.
Though the holiday consisted of Corbett, Nainital and Agra.. for the sake of my love for wildlife, i would call it the Corbett trip.

Lots of planning had gone into it. Right from the bookings for the trains and flights to the stay in the forest.. everything had to be taken care of.
Thankfully for me, Tina my wife, also has an eye for detail and that makes the planning part a lot easier. Had even one of us been the causal, 'chalta hai' traveller who is content with 'flight-nahi-toh-train-and-train-nahi-toh-bus' attitude like the current XBox generation, our holiday life wouldn't have existed.

We readied the plan for March in December itself. Took half a day off from office to go to the KMVN office at Hyd to book the forest lodge. Got the air tickets to Delhi done and we were done to go!

Day 1 : Flight from Hyd to Delhi -
4 people, me, Tina, Vijay(my college pal) and Vyanks(the Finacle wonderboy) were onboard. Night flight, what else could you expect? Dozed off till we reached Delhi.
There, my overzealous cousin picked us up from the airport and took us home for the nightstay and we were served yummy home food.

Day 2 : The trip begins -

Early morning, a decent looking car picked us up from our house and we started the trip to Corbett. The journey was dusty as expected on Indian roads.. but the highway was pretty good except for places where we encountered villages and overcrowded towns. We stopped somewhere in UP hinterland at a dhaba for breakfast which was amazingly cheap and good in terms of food. Paranthas aren't the prescribed food for road journeys but with a Punjabi foodie on board.. paranthas were the way to go!
The journey lasted for about 5 hours and we kept ourselves busy by talking ... mostly about college
Once we reached KMVN in Ramnagar, we were taken to a decent looking but old guesthouse where we were asked to wait for getting the permits. It pretty much functions the old sarkaari way, but then they cannot let every tom dick and harry into the tiger territory . I just couldnt wait to get in, the wait was killing me.

Half an hour flat, our over friendly driver, Sunil got us inside the gates of Dhikala which is one of the four zones that the park has. Do not confuse Dhikala to be a small area... it could be of the size of a small city like Mysore or Pune.
The entry was symbolic.

Once inside, the feeling was surreal.. our driver was over enthusiastic but had a very good eye which amazed us. He kept spotting fauna which were camouflaged. We then had to use Binoculars or the video cam to zoom in and see...
He also tended to exaggerate a lot.. he said that the last time he came here, he saw a tiger on the road which we all just laughed off

Dhikala FRH(Forest Rest House) is about 40 kms inside the jungle from the gate.. the road is anything but motorable, so dont take your car .. but if you are in a taxi.. then there are very few things that you will ever compare to the nature beauty on platter.
We reached FRH by 3 pm. It was a nice decent block with a few buildings. The mistake people make is that they book resorts.
I just wanna say, are you in tigerland to do the sauna? You need to be close to nature and feel the pressure of living in the dark. Thats what makes the experience worthwhile.

Anyways, had very nice tea with some snacks and the person at the front desk was kind enough to us.. he was ever smiling.. the pahadi people always do. Thats why i love them!
He got us an elephant safari arranged for the next morning.
We wandered outside the cafeteria when we saw some commotion in the grasslands in front of us.. people said.. "Tiger, Tiger..."
I got my binoculars out and saw a tiger chasing a herd of deers and scaring away a few kid elephants far away...so far so good..
It was dusk and darkness was approaching.
The beauty was surreal...

We had dinner and were walking to the rooms.
Then the fun began. Suddenly we realized that we couldn't see the path. The darkness in Corbett is to be seen to be believed.
To add to that, there were all kinds of sounds and calls of animals. Tina was afraid if there was a snake on the way to the room or worse still if there could be a tiger looking at us with his night vision eyes.
But then it was just about 10-20 metres which was dark. We heaved a sigh when we saw our rooms

Me and Tina went into our room when Vijay called out from the other.. "Akshay, do u need odomos??"
Boom.. not again.. i stepped out of my room in total darkness.. and before taking the next step jumped back in again.. "Vijay, you get it in my room please" I shouted back..
Vijay : "No ways"
Then i just took Tina to the door and showed her the darkness. It's hard to believe but i haven't seen anything as dark as that night ever.
Somehow i managed to go to their room and get the damn thing.

Day 3: Corbett -
Next morning, elephant safari was wonderful.. we got onto an elephant whose name was 'Chanchal'. I wish i had a better camera.. there were so many birds and other species that my point and shoot couldn't click.
Just before the end of it, we saw couple of other elephants which had stopped in the middle of the path.. just waiting and doing nothing.
The mahout told us that there is a tiger around. We could see the deers in alert state ready to sprint. The sound of the air was twitching their ears. The hunt was on the cards and the silence deafening.
But nothing happened. The king was around but chose not to show up in front of so many people.

All great beings on earth are solitary. I am solitary too

We went back dejected, but the feel of the jungle had gripped us by then.. our hearts were pounding sometime back but now we were having the yummy breakfast in the middle of the jungle.

Evening 3 pm :
We were ready for our jeep safari... we roamed the grasslands, the riverside and the reservoir.. clicked some amazing snaps.

We were more than happy with the sighting of the herd of wild elephants and hyenas and deer.
Just then our tour guide got a call on his walkie talkie..
watering hole 24.. he asked the driver to rush.. watering hole 24.. 24.. quick...
our jeep zipped through with amazing speed.. it was a 4*4 drive.
We were asked to hold ourselves firm.. the ride was bumpy but we were there in about 3 mins... We saw an elephant charging towards the bushes.
We were told that whenever a tiger is sighted all the resort elephants charge and create a huddle so that the tiger doesnt get violent.

Everyone waited with gasping breath. Minutes passed.. one .. two .. three... there was a countdown.. so silent. Nowhere do a group of Indians sit in such silence.
and then, an overwhelmingly idiotic moron from Delhi who had lost his senses in his Alto just before us got down from his car. People yelled at him.. "Kya kar raha hai be?? Mar jayega(What are you doing man? Wanna get killed?)"
And as lightening strikes, yellow stripes leapt 10 feet maybe couple of metres away from the lost Delhiite.
It had leapt 10 feet from one side of the path into the deep jungle the other side.
It was a tigress.
Our day was made. People were spellbound.
But that guy from Delhi, i am sure would now never get down from his car even in Delhi. His pants were wet.
But we were happy. We just saw the king of the jungle in his territory in full glory.

By now, we got used to the rules of the jungle. We thought like animals. The feeling had sunk in and we were happy that our holiday was so successful.

We had our dinner and slept peacefully.

Day 4 : Corbett -

We got up to another jeep safari.. This time we went to the other part of the jungle.
Had a long drive of about 3 hours.
By now, we were so mesmerized by the aura of the king, that we anticipated it everywhere.
But then, if the sightings were so easy, the fun would be lost. It was like an Indo-Pak match of the 90s, which happened once a year and the tension was palpable.
The joy of seeing the king in its territory is something which cannot be explained in words.
Catching him in his habitat is so different from watching it in a zoo.
We saw a lot of pug marks which indicated that he roamed the territory not so long back.

We did not get to see the king today, but our holiday was so enriching that we had forgotten the mundane city life by now.
We just did not want to leave the place.
But as they say, parting is the most difficult part.. and we had to part.

We recorded our sighting on the tiger sighting board too

With heavy hearts and very refreshed minds, we took leave of the king's territory.

We asked the king for permission to leave.. and he gave us a 'Roar of Approval'
#2 Dec 1st, 2009, 19:46
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Jul 2009
New Delhi
  • Aupmanyav is offline
Heaven does not exist below the altitude of 5,000 feet. Nice article though.
#3 Dec 2nd, 2009, 22:53
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Dec 2005
Mumbai, India
  • shahronakm is offline
Thanks for your Corbett report. This reminds me of my trip to Corbett in Feb 05 & we had stayed at Dhikala too. Wish I could make a longer trip (around 7 days) to Corbett.

#4 Dec 3rd, 2009, 17:35
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Nov 2009
  • akshaykakkar is offline
Ah yes..
i too think why i did not stay longer!
Next time i make a trip there.. it sure will be for 6-7 days..
#5 Dec 4th, 2009, 08:10
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Oct 2009
  • atravelynn is offline
I loved your report with such delightful descriptions and a profound question: "are you in tigerland to do the sauna?"

Completely agree. You had an outstanding trip and thanks for sharing it.
#6 Dec 4th, 2009, 10:51
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May 2007
blue mountains
  • haydn is offline
nice story akshay. but isn't that queen of the jungle?
#7 Dec 4th, 2009, 14:01
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Nov 2009
  • akshaykakkar is offline
Thanks atravelynn..

yeah haydn.. considering that i saw a tigress.. you can think of it as the 'queen' .. but for me the tiger will always be the 'king'
#8 Dec 4th, 2009, 14:17
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Sep 2009
  • Aamir is offline
Nice and delightful article !!

"it could be of the size of a small city like Mysore or Pune.". I never knew that Pune is a small city .
#9 Dec 5th, 2009, 04:51
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  • atravelynn is offline
A 6-7 night stay was mentioned.
What would you do for a 6 night Corbett stay if wildlife was the focus?
#10 Dec 5th, 2009, 11:17
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Jul 2009
New Delhi
  • Aupmanyav is offline
Laze around, what else?
#11 Dec 5th, 2009, 12:12
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Nov 2009
  • akshaykakkar is offline
i just felt 3 days wasnt enough.
if it was a 6-7 day thing, i could ask the safari people to tour different areas of the jungle everyday.

And one i am done with all of that, like mentioned in the post, just laze around..

lazing around is such a luxury these days.. and there is no better place than lazing around in nature's glory
#12 Dec 6th, 2009, 00:47
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Mar 2009
  • kartikp is offline
Enjoyed your trip report. Thank you for sharing it with us.

#13 Dec 8th, 2009, 11:10
Join Date:
Feb 2009
  • Jaimin Shah is offline
thanks for the lovely briefing...i am planning to go with my family with kids and my friend with his family.

Can you please suggest where to stay.......

What r the charges for safari... by jeep and by elephant...which one you would recommend.

Out of the five gates, which one would u recommend.

how much was the cost of ur stay per day.......chargess....
#14 Dec 8th, 2009, 12:23
Join Date:
Nov 2009
  • akshaykakkar is offline
Hi Jaimin,

I will answer point-wise :

Where to stay : Recommended stay at Dhikala Forest Rest House(FRH)

Charges for Safari : They were 1050 including the guide for gypsy safari till march, '09.(One safari is included in the package).
Elephant safari, you would get one in the package. Moreover there are 5 elephants at Dhikala ofr safaris, so i really dont know if you could get an extra one as all of them are busy servicing the people at the FRH.

Gate : Dhikala or Bijrani are popular with visitors, however i stayed at Dhikala and loved it, so would recommend it.

Cost : Cost was of the package, not day wise for me. So you could check the day wise cost at KMVN office.
My package costed 5500 for 2 nights & 3 days including 3 meals per day and accommodation at Dhikala FRH & to and fro travel from Delhi by car.

Hope this helps
#15 Dec 9th, 2009, 14:16
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Nov 2009
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  • theRock is offline
Corbett is indeed a heaven. Good to see a thread on Corbett and experiences shared.We(our group) stayed about 2 days at Corbett and enjoyed it.

I would like to add my experience too but I am amazed that MANY important things are not mentioned regarding Corbett which are a MUST SEE.It's not just Tigers which one have to see in Corbett.

We left Dilli in a hired bus at night and reached outpants of Corbett in morning.We went to the famous Corbett waterfall by walking about 1 km deep in jungle and took a dip in it.Then we went to our resort and after resting/eating for 2 hours went inside the jungle for safari on jeeps for about 5 kms... no luck regarding Tiger and saw only the foorprints and claw marks on trees.It's said that Corbett has about 130 odd tigers...the only animals we saw were deers,monkeys etc.At night we had bonfire with music and dance(jungle mei mangal)

Next day we took open air shower in Kosi river which was just in the backyard of our resort.After that we went to Garija Temple(unique temple which is right in middle of Kosi river) and after that we reached at the famous Old Bridge of Corbett and did some trekking/rope/slithering activities which is quite famous and should't be missed.We spend about an hour in the cold river water since water was quite shallow and then came back.We went back to our resort at evening and left to Dilli at night.


So guys... please include all those places in your Corbett travel next time.

Garija Temple

Corbett Waterfall

Our resort

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