Trip Report Kinnaur April 2014 (Delhi -Sarahan- Sangla -Rakcham -Chitkul - Kalpa)

#1 Apr 19th, 2014, 00:05
Join Date:
Sep 2012
  • Dipteshg is offline

This is my first post in Indiamike though I have been a member for almost two years. I have traveled many times in this span but just did not feel upto it (or confident enough) to write about it. I just returned from a short but eventful trip to Kinnaur and wanted to start chronicling my experiences here. I found the reports of others particularly helpful in my planning and thought that it was time I proved useful as well.

I thought I will start off with a few pictures to kind of set the mood. I am not sure if this is the right way to go about starting a thread or not... but here goes, nonetheless!

If this goes OK... without any glitches... I shall post my experiences tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed..
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#2 Apr 19th, 2014, 04:18
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Sep 2009
Toronto Canada
  • torontomm is offline
Welcome to Indiamike Dipteshg

Nice pictures and looking forward to reading your Kinnaur Trip report.
#3 Apr 19th, 2014, 10:31
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Aug 2012
Keshtopur (Krishnapur)
  • DebarshiRoy is offline
Hello Dipteshg.

Great captures. Waiting for your detailed report and more pictures.

Showing : Quest Of Snow
#4 Apr 21st, 2014, 01:33
Join Date:
Sep 2012
  • Dipteshg is offline
“People don’t take trips … trips take people”

John Steinbeck

When I set out to make my Kinnaur trip I was at the end of a long season of snow. I had seen a lot of snow-fall and snow-covered landscapes for this winter and all I wanted while planning this trip was a little bit of sun-shine and some green countryside to soothe my snow-tired eyes. It was ironical, of course, that I was setting out for Kinnaur where in early April one can expect a bit of snow. I was told, quite emphatically, that while I might have to face a bit of the white stuff in Chitkul, the rest of the travel would be all about the yawning valleys and the sparkling rivers that ran wild through them.

With that in mind I planned the last leg of my winter tour. Already I had made three trips to three different locations starting January 2014. This was a part of my grand plan to cover twelve unique destinations in twelve months of 2014, so I was keeping pace with my April plan which would be the fourth for the year. When you make such grand plans leaves will always be a problem as twelve destinations, even if you take at an average of four days per trip, translate to forty-eight days for the year. No corporate office is going to fall over itself to help its employees make such a fine work-life balance. Still… man proposes!

The Start (8th April, 2014)

On 8th of April, Tuesday, me and my two co-passengers, set out after a suitably abbreviated work-day, bunking office at 3 PM to set out for New Delhi railway station. At 5:15 PM we were on board the Kalka Shatabdi addressing our office calls with the same intensity as we would do in our offices… giving the impression that perhaps we were still around the corner somewhere… with our accomplices in the office ensuring that something lay suitably untidily on our desks, giving us a proxy attendance. Soon, however, all this was forgotten, and we were done with our charades. The train raced through the wheat bowl of the country going past Ambala, Chandigarh, till it was our turn to get down at Kalka at 9:15 PM.

So far so good… the prisoners had escaped, but no one seemed to have noticed. There were no sirens blazing. There was already a nip in the air and the dimly lit periphery of the Kalka station was quite welcomed by us. Our Innova, which we had booked earlier, was waiting. It was a 3 day old vehicle still smelling of the factory and the driver Ashok was a true blood Himachali guy the extent of which we were to discover fully later. A song was already in our heart and we 3 wanted to be off immediately. Like all good movies there was a bit of suspense with the local touts refusing to let our vehicle pass but after a bit of cajoling and a few phone calls we were truly on our way.

For those who are unaware, Kalka is a small railway hamlet in Haryana. The famed toy train to Shimla originates here. It shares its border with Parwanoo, the border town in Himachal Pradesh. Kalka also has a fantastic Kali mandir on which the town is named. Kalka to Shimla is about a 100 kms and an easy two and half to three hour drive. Our plan was quite daring… to touch Sarahan by driving non-stop overnight. That way we saved time as we had practically 4 days only for our Kinnaur trip. We had booked a 7 seater Innova. There were three passengers: me, my brother-in-law Niladri, and my travel buddy and colleague Vitesh. We planned to sleep on the middle and back seats turn by turn while one of us sat and gave company to the driver. The driver, Ashok, had already prepared by sleeping well in advance. After a quick dinner on the way we were on the road by 11 PM. One by one, we crossed the landmarks on the way… Solan, Shimla, Narkanda…. Till by 6 AM we were already in Sarahan.

9th April, 2014

We reached Sarahan just in time for the sunrise. I had slept well but we wanted our driver to catch a few hours of sleep as we did not want to risk the Kinnaur roads with a sleep-deprived driver. We were pleasantly excited by the looks of the waking hamlet of Sarahan. The slopes were covered with Apple trees and cherry plants already in bloom. The apple trees were still bidding good bye to winter but now and then we found apple buds and a few blossoms. There were apricot trees and lots of wild flowers as well. The center of the town was reserved for the mighty Bhimakali Mandir and the northern horizon dominated by the sparkling Himalayan Peaks. The higher slopes were covered with pines and deodars and irrespective of one’s religious denomination one cannot but feel the presence of something spiritual in lands like these.

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In the company of some strong mountain dogs we set out to explore the town. A quick cup of tea and some biscuits in a momo shop gave us the energy boost we needed. We had quickly explored the beautiful architecture of Shanti Kunj which is exactly how a pahari palace should be: built of wood and stones, with an eclectic mix of local and Tibetan influence, it had a lawn worth dying for. Full of lush green grass, it had trees of apricot, cherries and apple in bloom. The view from the lawn was all about the 180 degree panorama of snow-clad mountains and the Bhimakali mandir. There was no one, except the birds, and the early walkers of Sarahan who were only focused on the Temple in the midst of it all.

Bhimakali Mandir was unlike any mandir I have visited. There was no one asking you to cleanse your sins and there was no priest doing a sponsored Puja. There was zero filth and almost no one else there apart from us. The temples were old and their sculpture something I am not equipped to describe except by saying that it was a fusion of power, mystery and serenity… if such a combination is possible. There were a few people sitting in the sun wearing Garhwali topis talking of life in general. We too sat in the sun seeing the snow-clad peaks shimmer in the sun in the touching distance. We went and prayed to the Goddess in her abode and were impressed by the simplicity of the design and the Tibetan influence on all things. There was some religious song playing in the temple complex but it was not too loud and did not intrude on the balance of the place.

After having a relaxed breakfast of omelets, parathas, and steaming tea we were ready to set out for Sangla. The shops were quite often empty and the residents appeared happy and content. Now that our driver Ashok was up he seemed quite perked. Later we got to know that it was because he had his customary smoke of cannabis (ganja) which was available, apparently, quite freely in the area. He even told us later that people in the area looked down on the drivers who drank, but never on those who smoked grass!! He started playing Himachali and pahari songs quite loudly on the music player and soon we were enjoying the rhythm of Shalu pardi and similar songs by a singer called Vicky Chauhan. Without wanting to appear condescending I must say that I liked the songs, in general. In any case he had no Hindi songs and I was too lazy to give him songs in a thumb drive or my iPod on loan.

The road till Karcham was picturesque with the usual stops to marvel at the engineering of the roads. There was steep cliffs and waterfalls, roads that seemed plucked straight out of a child’s imagination, and now and then the small temples where people stopped to ask for blessings. The drive to Karcham which is about 65 kms, took about two hours, or slightly more. From Karcham, however, the last 16 kms to Sangla were quite harrowing. The Jaypee hydro-electric project may be delivering power to the state or country and hence important. However, it has taken its toll on the beautiful lands leaving them scarred like what happens after man tries his hand at improving what nature has done. The roads were treacherous and needed our ganja-high driver to use all his senses, or whatever he had left of it.

After a slow drive of about an hour or more we were suddenly in Sangla. All along our way even before Sarahan we had the Sutlej giving us company. A gray river which was not more than a wild stream now, it was reputed to grow fierce suddenly in the monsoons… washing roads and villages away with impunity, with the smallest change of the weather. Now, suddenly, we had another companion… the blue Baspa.

Sangla is based on the banks of the river Baspa. It is a valley quite Alpine in nature with forests of Coniferous trees like Pine, Deodar and Chilgoza, apart from the famous Kinnauri apple, apricot and cherry orchards. There were other trees like Oaks, rhododendrons, and maple as well but generally it is the orchards by the river-side and the coniferous forests on the mountain slope that catch your attention. And towering over these craggy cliffs stand the mighty Himalayan peaks which are so close that you can indeed touch them. Various glaciers, still frozen, opened out to the valley and all one needed was to walk on them, slide on them in plastic sheets, or sit by them to ponder on life and its existential issues.

Sangla was pink with blossoms. But we had booked our stay in Hotel Rupin River View in Rakcham, which is a small village about 10 kms further on the way to Chitkul, which as many might know is famous as the last Indian outpost on the Hindustan-Tibet road. So we continued on the road and in twenty minutes were there in Rakcham. Rakcham seemed more beautiful than Sangla with its odd smattering of wooden houses and coniferous forests, quaint bridge over the river and most importantly, the magnificent views. Rupin River Valley is an average hotel made exceptional by the location. Its owner Naresh Jishtu knows a thing or two about the importance of the views and the advantage of being close to trekking trails. He was well-versed with the needs and benefits of this place and seemed a well-informed ally to have in a place as far from ‘urban’ civilization as Rakcham was.

Rakcham had no Vodafone network… airtel was iffy and BSNL as usual was great. As I was on Vodafone I was quite literally stranded. I loved it. When we reached it was lunch time so we had a delicious meal of chicken, dal, salads, aloo-gobhi and rice. We were famished and we showed him how to eat. After a brief freshening up we were away exploring the place. One quick description of the view from our room 301: fantastic. I know I had set out hoping for as less of snow as possible but I was wrong. The entire countryside --- the mountains, the valleys, the farms, the trees, and the riverside was covered in a blanket of fresh snow. The sun was out making the blankness of the white color seem warm and golden. We wanted to walk and our hearts seemed to be glowing in the brightness of the sun.

I wanted to write as a young A E Housman had once written, on seeing perhaps a similar scene in his native England:

“Loveliest of trees, the cherry now
Is hung with bloom along the bough,
And stands about the woodland ride
Wearing white for Eastertide.

Now, of my threescore years and ten,
Twenty will not come again,
And take from seventy springs a score,
It only leaves me fifty more.

And since to look at things in bloom
Fifty springs are little room,
About the woodlands I will go
To see the cherry hung with snow”.

The three of us roamed the whole of afternoon, finding trails and making our own paths through snow and sometimes through the slush. We crossed the river and went past the road exploring our way into the shadowy woods. But we were called back from our explorations by the realization that evening was setting in and that a dark patch of clouds had settled in over the sky. Soon it started snowing and the land was transformed with the blustery winds and the steady fall of the persistent snowflakes. We were back in our rooms in the comfort of the heated rooms, under our quilts, hot mugs of Bournvita in hand. We had liquor as well but since I am a teetotaler I am telling the story from my perspective. We watched night fall quietly from the skies and soon we were amazed by the utter silence of the place. I read for a while and then, later, we plugged in our music and started enjoying the beats echoing from the silence of the valleys around us. After a quick dinner we fell off to a blissful sleep.

10th April, 2014

We got up to a brilliantly clear morning. The storm of the last night was like a forgotten dream. The dawn was fresh and the skies without a single blemish. We sat sipping cups of tea in our balcony watching the day take shape with the widening arc of the yellow rays of the sun. After a delayed breakfast we set out for Chitkul, not really sure of what to expect.

Chitkul is a sum of all the beauty you get on the way to Chitkul. I know that each season has its own beauty and being snow bound we definitely had a very limited access to all the place had to offer, but having said that, all that we found was mind-boggling to one with as limited a mind as mine. The roads were empty as we seemed to be one of the first and perhaps the only ones on the way to Chitkul. The roads were swathed with snow and the rocks and crevices, the trees and the cliffs all covered by deep layers of snow… in some cases a few feet in thickness. A few kms from Rakcham we crossed Mastarang which is an ITBP check-post in the midst of a forest with great views. One day, perhaps, I would return to have a picnic somewhere here. A stream was burrowing through the snow with giant icicles formed all around it. The roads were chiseled through the forests and mountains overlooking great valleys and giant massifs. If the Gods chose to live on earth I can see why they would choose places like these for their residence.

When we reached Chitkul (about a 35-40 minute leisurely drive) I was awe-struck by the serenity of the place. Man was present here but as an afterthought, not as a vital ingredient. In the snow-clad landscape I found domesticated donkeys and furry dogs resting in a pace absolutely in tune with the land. We walked through the snowy land as far as the snows would allow us, tired with the altitude and the heaviness of our attires. Despite the snow I was sweating in the sun and very soon we came across the school in Chitkul. I have studied in a beautiful boarding school in the mountains so I appreciate the importance of the environment to a school. This was on the edge of the mountains, on the banks of the river, in the shadow of the forest on the other side. Children were sitting in the open (because the classes were too cold), enjoying the sunshine and attentively following their teachers. By the way, I saw schools and hospitals in Kinnaur everywhere I went and must complement the government and the administration for providing these essential things to the citizen in such remote areas.

We spent some more time in the school interacting with the students and the teachers. After that we walked to the river which flowed close by. By the time we hit the river we had slipped a few times in the snow. I was panting because easy though it looks the snow was deceptively tough to walk on. The river was beautiful and straight out of a picture post card. The water was fresh from the glaciers… icy cold. We rolled up our trousers and walked bare feet in the snow to get used to the cold. Then we plunged in into the cold water. It was refreshing and exhilarating. After few more such adventures we rode back to Rakcham with a bag full of good memories from Chitkul.

We spent our last night in Rakcham reading, listening to music and gazing at the stars.

11th April, 2014

Bad luck strikes for the first time this tour. While the day looks bright and fantastic we are told that the weather forecast is gloomy for the second half with a storm expected in Kinnaur. Our plan was to stay tonight in Kalpa but as we have train tickets on 12th night from Kalka a bad storm has the potential of upsetting our travel plans. So we quickly adjust our plans.

After a quick breakfast we leave for Kalpa. I sleep on the way as I have travel-sickness. In two hours we are in Recong Peo. First things first, we go looking for Kinnauri green caps for ourselves and shawls for the ladies we have left behind. This done we stand to witness the magnificence of the Kailash Kinnaur range. The entire mountain seems to have come to meet us and the Shiv-Linga is clear in the sun. However, already the clouds begin to gather and it is not yet noon. We quickly drive up to Kalpa which is 8 kms further up from Recong Peo. Kalpa is a village that you will have to see to believe. Quaint houses, cherry blossoms and apricot blooms, the entire Kailash- Kinnaur range spread out in front of it like someone put it there as an object more of admiration than adoration. We had a lunch in the green lawns of Hotel Rolling Rang and watched the blue sky turn gray. We wanted to explore Kalpa but the storm forecast had put us on the defensive and soon we knew we had to be on our way.

Kalpa is a quiet place that sits on the laps of the snow-clad mountains. The roads snake through the slopes never losing sight of the peaks, always blessed by the colors of the orchards and the shadows of the deodars. It is a place one must come back to, not to spend a day but many perhaps a season of one’s lifetime.
Soon we were on our way for Sarahan. The revised plan was to stay the night in Sarahan. We were there before sundown. I have already described Sarahan in some detail so I just mention that we stayed there and enjoyed a great night’s sleep.

12th April, 2014

We left early to enjoy the orchards in Narkanda, Thanedar and Kotgarh. The apple trees were beginning to blossom and everywhere I went spring was nudging the trees awake. Just a month back these trees had stood bare and naked, but now the green leaves could not but make us happy.

I remembered the lines of Philip Larkin, one of my favorite poets who passed away last year.

The Trees

The trees are coming into leaf
Like something almost being said;
The recent buds relax and spread,
Their greenness is a kind of grief.

Is it that they are born again
And we grow old? No, they die too.
Their yearly trick of looking new
Is written down in rings of grain.

Yet still the unresting castles thresh
In fullgrown thickness every May.
Last year is dead, they seem to say,
Begin afresh, afresh, afresh.

Philip Larkin

Stopping to see the magnificent panorama from Narkanda, the same peaks farther now, but visible in their combined beauty I could find no reason to not believe that every trip gives us a chance, like the trees above, to begin afresh.

‘The dust of the traveled road’ had touched my face and once it is so, I believe, we are forever changed. We may belong to the cities but our hearts are always captive to the charms of these places, these far- away lands that give us both hope and purpose.
#5 Apr 21st, 2014, 01:40
Join Date:
Apr 2014
  • justDEB is offline
Hello Dipteshg,
I am also new in indiamike..please share your travelouge..your snaps are good.. I also have had a very short tour to chandigarh-shimla-sarahan-kalpa in 1st week of march this year...will share it soon....waiting for your detailed report and lots of snaps...
#6 Apr 21st, 2014, 01:52
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Sep 2012
  • Dipteshg is offline
Just submitted my report. Being a novice I submitted it in entirety (typing it down) not realizing I can post only 10 pictures max. So 2 things:

1. The pictures are only of Sarahan (I guess I will post 10 new ones everyday, covering Sangla, Rakcham, Chitkul, Kalpa, Narkanda)... will take a minimum of 5 days
2. The report being detailed has gone to the moderators for them to see if I am bona-fide or not. If I have posted trip related things or otherwise... if what I have put is worth sharing / reading by others.... so I shall wait their judgment
#7 Apr 21st, 2014, 02:04
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May 2013
  • avishekbcrec is offline
Hi Diptesh,

We are going to Kinnaur, Kalpa and Spiti in May 1st week, so eagerly waiting for the trip details. Please let me know about the current road conditions and all other relevant details.

#8 Apr 21st, 2014, 08:43
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Sep 2012
  • Dipteshg is offline

Some of the photographs in Rakcham

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#9 Apr 21st, 2014, 10:09
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May 2009
  • arupratan ghosh is offline
Wonderful Snaps ! Enjoyed a lot .. Waiting for more to come ..
#10 Apr 21st, 2014, 10:43
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Sep 2012
  • Dipteshg is offline

Some photographs from Chitkul

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#11 Apr 21st, 2014, 10:58
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Sep 2012
  • Dipteshg is offline

Spring Pictures

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#12 Apr 21st, 2014, 11:07
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Feb 2014
Not set
  • Morichika is offline
beautiful shots
#13 Apr 21st, 2014, 11:09
Enthralled by this land's beauty
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Nov 2008
Mumbai, India
  • Mechguru is offline
Nice pics there...
#14 Apr 21st, 2014, 12:11
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Apr 2014
  • justDEB is offline
lovely pics....and thanks for the detailed report..
#15 Apr 21st, 2014, 12:49
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  • Dipteshg is offline

Some shots from Kalpa, way to Kalpa

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