Trip Report - Rann of Kutch/Kachchh- KACHCHH nahi dekha toh KUCHCHH nahi dekha?

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#1 Mar 29th, 2013, 17:35
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Well, I wanted to verify if Mr. Amitabh Bacchan really meant what he said when he said ‘Kacchh nahi dekha toh Kuch nahi dekha’ (If you haven't seen Kachchh/Kutch, then you haven't seen anything!) while promoting Gujarat tourism. After travelling for 9 days and visiting the ‘Kutch Hub’, I can surely say that Kacchh Nahi Dekha toh *Bohoth* Kuch nahi Dekha. So, here is a report which I have tried to make as concise as possible while giving all important & relevant details.

Kutch district also written as Kachchh, is a district of Gujarat state. Covering an area of 45,652 km², it is the largest district of India. Kutch literally means something which intermittently becomes wet and dry; a large part of this district is known as Rann (Desert) of Kutch which is shallow wetland which submerges in water during the rainy season and becomes dry during other seasons. The Rann is famous for its marshy salt flats which become snow white after the shallow water dries up each season before the monsoon rains.

The district is also famous for ecologically important Banni grasslands with their seasonal marshy wetlands; which form the outer belt of the Rann of Kutch.
- Wikipedia.

We had traveled in our own vehicle throughout the visit. And during this drive we have travelled a distance of about 3000Kms in 9 days (this includes the distance driven even during local sightseeing).

Started our trip from Borivali, Mumbai and did the Kutch hub.

AHMEDABAD (2Nights)
Borivali/Ahmedabad road condition: National Highway - Very good.

Day 1 – 18 Mar – Borivali – Ahmedabad (Overnight stay) – Approximate distance 535 Kms
Local Sightseeing: Sarkhej Roza

Day 2 – 19 Mar – Ahmedabad (Overnight stay)
Local Sightseeing: Thol Bird Sanctuary – Approximate distance 30 Kms.

Hotel Royal,
Near Sarkhej Dhal, Near, City Pulse Cinema, Sarkhej, Ahmedabad – 382210
Ph. No. 26821149, 9016299500
Tariff: Rs. 499/- Non-AC room, Rs. 950/- AC room (Inclusive of taxes, on double Occupancy/night)

A restaurant serving good Vegetarian food is in the same compound.
Vehicle parking space is available for a few vehicles.
Budget Hotel. AC rooms are better than Non AC rooms - cleanliness and comfort wise.

BHUJ (2Nights)
Ahmedabad/Bhuj road condition (Part National Highway & part State Highway):
Ahmedabad-Bachau, very good. Bachau to Bhuj – road work in progress, not exactly bad but a difficult drive.

Day 3 – 20 Mar – Ahmedabad/Bhuj (Overnight Stay) – Approximate distance 355 Kms
Local Sightseeing: Visited the ‘Hill Garden’ and a beautiful temple – Trimandir.

Day 4 – 21 Mar – Bhuj (Overnight Stay)
Local Sightseeing (using local transportation (Rickshaw): Prag Mahal, Kutch Museum, Ramkind Vav, Some shopping in Bhuj market, visited Sharad baug and finally walked along Hamirsar Lake before returning to the hotel.

Hotel Seven Sky, Website - http://www.sevensky.co.in/rooms.php
Post Box No. 30, Seven Sky Ring Road,
Bhuj-Kutch. 370001. Gujarat-INDIA.
Phone: +91 (2832) 307777
Mobile: +91 97277 62201 / 202

Tariff: Rs. 2200/- (Inclusive of taxes, on double Occupancy/night) – AC Delux room.
They have a beautiful Restaurant serving only Vegetarian food. Ample vehicle parking space available.
A 3 star hotel, located on the Airport road and out of the city, completely paisa vasool (Value for money).

MANDVI (1Night)
Bhuj/Mandvi road condition (State Highway): Very good.
Day 5 – 22 Mar – Bhuj/Mandvi (Overnight Stay) – Approximate distance – 67 Kms
Local Sightseeing (Bhuj): Aina Mahal (Closed on Thursday) and en-route Mandvi visited the Jain temple at Koday.

Local Sightseeing (Mandvi): The Ship building yard on the Rukmavati River, Mandvi Palace and finally watched sunset at the Mandvi Beach.

Hotel Kutch Inn, Website - http://www.hotelkutchinn.com/
Near Kashiwishvanath Beach, Haji Hassan Hospital Road, Mandvi – Kutch, Gujarat
Tel : +(91) - (2834)-224399 / 224400
Mobile : +91 98252 05317

Tariff: Rs. 1300/- (Inclusive of taxes, on double Occupancy/night) – AC Executive Delux room.
They have a good restaurant serving only Vegetarian food. Ample vehicle parking space available.

NARAYAN SAROVAR (1Night)
Mandvi/Narayan Sarovar road condition(Part National Highway & part State Highway): Very good.

Day 6 – 23 Mar – Mandvi/Narayan Sarovar (Overnight stay) – Approximate distance – 146 Kms
Local Sightseeing at Barayan Sarovar: The Temple at Narayan Sarovar & the lake, Koteshwar temple, Visit to Lakhpat fort (30 Kms away) and back in time at Sunset point in Narayan Sarovar to watch the Sunset.

Toran Resort (run by Tourism Corporation of Gujarat), Narayan Sarovar.
Contact preson: Mr. Vallabh Bhai - +91 9727723942

Tariff: Rs. 400/ (Inclusive of taxes, on double Occupancy/night), Non-AC rooms. Dormitory with 4 beds are also available. Reasonably good restaurant is there in the resort premises. The cook needs to be informed well in advance about the food requirements.

The resort is just about OK for a night’s stay. Hygiene & cleanliness is average in the rooms.
Ample vehicle parking space available.

DHORDO (1Night)
Narayan Sarovar/Dhordo via Bhuj road condition (State Highway): Very good.

Day 7 – 24 Mar – Narayan Sarovar/Dhordo (Overnight Stay) Approximate distance – 195 Kms
Local Sightseeing in and around Dhordo: White Rann, local village visits, Kalo Dunger (black Hill).

Hotel Gateway to Rann, Website - http://kutchrannresort.com/
Dhordo Village, Banni, Kutch, Gujarat.
Tel : +91.2803.296181, 91.9409475359

Tariff: Rs 3800/- (Inclusive of taxes and all 3 meals (L, D, B), on double Occupancy/night), Mud Bhungas with AC.

A beautiful resort with traditional Mud bhungas to stay. Very neat & clean and well maintained place. A good restaurant serving only Vegetarian food is located inside the resort premises. Ample vehicle parking space available. The resort is located quite close to the White Rann and the Toran Resort.

DHOLAVIRA (1Night)
Dhordo/Dholavira via Bhuj road condition (State Highway): Partly good.
Dhordo to Bhuj, Good.
Bhuj to Rapar – Once off the Bhuj high way, the road condition worsens but from Rapar, it is very bad as the road laying work and the Kutch canal work is in progress. Just about 60 Kms before Dholavira, the road becomes beautiful.

Day 8 – 25 mar – Dhordo/Dholavira (Overnight Stay) Approximate distance – 320 Kms – SH 42)
Local Sightseeing: Dholavira Museum and the Excavated site at Dholavira.

Toran Resort (run by Tourism Corporation of Gujarat), Dholavira.
Contact preson: Mr. Gaurang Bhai - +91 9825026813, Land line no. 0283 7277395

Tariff: Rs. 1012/ (Inclusive of taxes, on double Occupancy/night), AC Mud Bhungas. Reasonably good restaurant is there in the resort premises. The cook needs to be informed well in advance about the food requirements.

Again Cleanliness and hygiene negligible. But just for a night's stay not bad at all. BTW, all the Bhungas are AC fitted and one should take care to check if all the gadgets are working in the bhungas - AC, Geyser, toilet flush & lights etc before occupying the room!! Ample vehicle parking space available.

DHOLAVIRA/MUMBAI
Via Rapar, Radhanpur, Mehsana, Ahmedabad & Borivali.
Road condition: From Rapar, the road is beautiful.

Day – 26 Mar – Drive to Borivali (Check out and drive to Mumbai) Distance - 913 Kms
Local Sightseeing: Re-visited the excavated site at Dholavira.

SOME NOTES FROM OUR TRIP:
  • Kutch is beautiful.
  • Roads are in top condition except in few places where the work is in progress.
  • Good vegetarian food is available in all parts of Kutch.
  • Presence of Border Security force (BSF) can be felt in every place in Kutch but that does not one bit interfere in one’s travel in anyway.
  • Though photography is not prohibited at all BSF outposts/check posts, it is advisable to take permission from the concerned authorities before photographing.
  • During the village visits, too, obtaining permission from the people being photographed is advisable. Women in their ethnic dresses look beautiful but they do take offense if one photographs them without seeking permission.
  • One needs to take the permit while visiting the ‘White Rann’. It is better to obtain it en-route to Dhordo or Hodko villages where the resorts are mostly located.
  • The permit is issued by the Assistant Police Subinspector at Bhirandiyara Check-Post. One will have to fill an application form and submit photocopies of ID/address proof with a fee of Rs. 100/ person and Rs. 50/- for a four-wheeler.
  • The permit is valid for a day. The BSF personnel will collect the counterfoil of the permit effectively stopping subsequent visits to the White Rann on the same permit. But one can politely request the staff to permit another visit, in case one intends to re-visit.
  • Generally a Pan Card or Passport copy or a Driving License is accepted but the original is to be shown for verification purpose. On an average this process takes about 15 minutes.
  • If one does not intend traveling all the way to Dhordo to experience the ‘White Rann’, one can do that while travelling to Dholavira – without any permit!! The road leading towards Dholavira cuts right through the Rann (White desert), and one can stop the vehicle and experience the White Rann easily.
  • At the time of travel to Dholavira, one can explore/check the road between Khavda & Dholavira which is presently under construction. This route reduces substantially the distance between Dhordo & Dholavira via Khavda.
  • Due to prohibition, liquor is not available in Gujarat and most of the resorts do not allow open consumption of alcoholic drinks.
Last edited by vaibhav_arora; Mar 30th, 2013 at 18:27..
#2 Mar 29th, 2013, 17:38
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#2
Needless to say that this is yet another epic TR in making! I am eagerly waiting to see Kachchh/ Kuchchh/ bohot kuchchh/ sab kuchchh through your eyes, Naveena (aka Nobeena/ Noveena )
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid Albert Einstein


Trip reports:

Syalsaur/ Deoria taal/ Chopta trip report, West and South Sikkim trip report , Puri/ Konark trip report
#3 Mar 29th, 2013, 17:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post Needless to say that this is yet another epic TR in making! I am eagerly waiting to see Kachchh/ Kuchchh/ bohot kuchchh/ sab kuchchh through your eyes, Naveena (aka Nobeena/ Noveena )
I really don't want to make it an epic this time, Sagarneel . Trying to keep it as simple as possible, hence posted all the text part at one go .

Thanks to Vaibhav & aarosh I am becoming quite popular with various names, ain't it!!
#4 Mar 29th, 2013, 17:49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naveenamohanrao View Post I really don't want to make it an epic this time, Sagarneel . Trying to keep it as simple as possible, hence posted all the text part at one go .

Thanks to Vaibhav & aarosh I am becoming quite popular with various names, ain't it!!
By epic I didn't intend to comment about the potential length, I was referring to quality, which is in plenty in all your TRs!

And...what's in a name!
#5 Mar 29th, 2013, 17:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post And...what's in a name!


Bohoth Kuch, sab kuch, Kuch na kuch..... Just trying out my 'kuch kuch' vocabulary.

Thanks for the complement

Quote:
By epic I didn't intend to comment about the potential length, I was referring to quality, which is in plenty in all your TRs!
#6 Mar 29th, 2013, 17:55
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BTW...I have heard that a full moon night at the Kachchh is heavenly. Did you have a chance to experience that?
#7 Mar 29th, 2013, 17:58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post BTW...I have heard that a full moon night at the Kachchh is heavenly. Did you have a chance to experience that?
Sab Kuch abhi poochloge kya? (You will ask every thing now itself?)

But to answer your question - I was in the white Rann just 2 nights before full moon! And it was a beautiful night, I can assure you.
#8 Mar 29th, 2013, 18:13
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Naveena, good collage & hotel details. Now bring on the main travelogue with detailed description & photos day by day.

Ronak.
#9 Mar 29th, 2013, 18:28
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Day 1 – 18 March, 2013 - Sarkhej Roza

Quote:
Originally Posted by shahronakm View Post Naveena, good collage & hotel details. Now bring on the main travelogue with detailed description & photos day by day.

Ronak.

Thanks Ronak...I don't like to keep you & sagarneel waiting , So -
Some photographs from the first day's stay at Ahmedabad.

Day 1 – 18 March, 2013 -In the evening we walked up to the Sarkhej Roza which was just 5 minutes away from our hotel.

On display at Sarkhej Roza:



Sarkhej, owes it's fame to the celebrated Saint Shaikh Ahmad Khattu better known as Ganj Baksh. After traveling extensively, the saint came to Gujarat in 1398 A.D. and settled at Sarkhej. He was one of the four Ahmads who laid the foundation of Ahmadabad/Ahmedabad city in 1411 AD. Sultan Ahmad Shah- I(1411-1442 A.D.) was devoted to him. The Saint died in 1446 A.D. Sultan Muhmad Shah-II (1443-1451 A.D.) began to erect a splendid tomb and a mosque in his memory, which was later completed by his son and successor Sultan Qutubuddin Ahmad Shah II (1451-1458 A.D.) SAnctified by these structures, the place soon became a favorite resort of Gujarat Sultans. Later on it developed into a Sufi town of considerable importance by various constructions such as Palaces, Gardens, Pavilions, Royal tombs, Gateways and a large Artificial Lake - all on a grand scale. These buildings within a large enclosure an extensive area and is apprached by a massive gateway on the east. - Information gathered inside the Roza complex.

The huge lake (although bone dry)! It is used as a play ground by the locals.



A gateway:



"The gallery that opens into the Tombs of the Queens" at Sarkhej Roza



A Part of the palace (?), behind the main gateway.



No need for an explanation!



Tomb of Sufi saint Ganj Baksh can be fond inside.



The Jami Masjid in the same complex.



It was almost 'Namaaz time', hence could not get inside for other photos.



The Tomb of Sufi saint Ganj Baksh, from another angle.



Not a 'chaiwalla' this time, for a change! It is a chadar (?) vendor inside the building, near the tomb.



A view of the tomb



The beautiful carvings inside the structure.



In the same complex one can also visit the tomb of Muhamad Begada.



Just as the sun was slipping down the horizon, we returned back to the hotel.
#10 Mar 29th, 2013, 19:01
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Naveena, thanks for not keeping us waiting for long. Lovely photos.

Ronak.
#11 Mar 30th, 2013, 02:03
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#11
A good start. I am not so regular visitor of Indiamike. I read your post on HVK Forum and came here. Apart from this log, I just finished reading your Badami-.. log and what a log it is. I have never read such a exhaustive log. I am sure, this log will also come as bright as you Badami log. I am sure, for next few days, I have a lot of things to read i.e. your travelogues you have posted here.
#12 Mar 30th, 2013, 15:09
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#12
Quote:
Originally Posted by shahronakm View Post Naveena, thanks for not keeping us waiting for long. Lovely photos.
Ronak.
. Thank you, too, Ronak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aashishkul View Post A good start. I am not so regular visitor of Indiamike. I read your post on HVK Forum and came here. Apart from this log, I just finished reading your Badami-.. log and what a log it is. I have never read such a exhaustive log. I am sure, this log will also come as bright as you Badami log. I am sure, for next few days, I have a lot of things to read i.e. your travelogues you have posted here.
Welcome to India mike, aashishkul. Hopefully you will henceforth be a regular visitor here.

Me reporting on HVK forum - The least I could do was to post the trip report (drive report) immediately after I was back. The forum is so helpful 24/7, that one feels like giving back what ever possible. HVK Sir himself is a 'Mobile' encyclopedia on Indian road conditions & routes and the enthusiastic members of the forum are a treasure. I had no choice but to give the feedback after our drive. Hopefully it helps members on the forum.

About my Badami Travelogue, well, it did become a huge TL unknowingly! The IMers were encouraging & inspiring me through out the process of my Trip report, So....

But I hope this latest TR of mine doesn't turn out to be too huge this time but will keep every reader interested enough to go through it.
#13 Mar 30th, 2013, 17:40
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Day 2 – 19 Mar – Ahmedabad (Thol Bird Sanctuary visit)

The second day of our stay was entirely dedicated to a visit to the nearby bird sanctuary in Thol, some 30 Kms away from Sarkhej in Ahmadabad, where we were staying. One of my friends had visited this sanctuary in the month of February and was all praise for this praise. So, when we were driving to Bhuj (our next destination), we took a break and decided to visit and watch the birds here.

I wish to dedicate an entire thread to this topic in a different forum here on IM, hence will post only few photographs here for the sake of posterity.

As we drive out from our hotel, a promising sight by the roadside!

Rosy Starlings sunbathing



Red-naped Ibises



Thol Wildlife Sanctuary is a shallow, man-made reservoir. The wetland is predominated by the open water habitat. The reservoir is surrounded by cropland, uncultivated land and scrubland. And this being a conducive environment for migratory birds, helps them to spend time here during their migration. This area was notified as Sanctuary in November 1988. The best birding season here, I am told, is from November to February when one can get to see large number of birds like Great White Pelicans, flamingos, a variety of waterfowl including Mallards and large numbers of geese, Sarus Cranes and many other waders.

The Sanctuary opens early in the morning and closes by around 5.00 pm. There is an entry fees of around 100/-per person and Camera charges (Only photograph) Rs. 150/-(I don’t remember exact amount, but it was above Rs. 100/-). One can park their vehicle near the main entrance or take their vehicle inside the sanctuary for a further distance of about 3 kms and park them near the lake/reservoir.

The main Entrance at Thol Bird Sanctuary.



The office at the entrance:



A few who were at the entrance to welcome us!



The Reservoir - the water was very less as the summer is fast approaching:



I got to see some huge flocks of Great White Pelicans, Common Cranes & Flamingos apart from a few other scrub land birds. We spent almost the entire day in the sanctuary and returned to our hotel late in the evening.

Pelican FLock



The Flamingos



A white-eared Bulbul in a thorny bush near by.



A common Hoopoe in the grass!



A Red-wattled Lapwing



Around 5.30 pm, we started back and drove towards Sanand circle to reach our hotel. While we entered the bird sanctuary early in the morning we had hardly imagined that the road near Sanand cirlce would be this crowded -

#14 Mar 30th, 2013, 17:50
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Lovely pictures. We were supposed to go to Thol during our December trip to LRK but somehow did not manage to go. Good you got to see so many birds there. It's thriving with bird life unlike Nal Sarovar which has become a picnic spot. Good idea to dedicate a new thread on Thol.

Ronak.
#15 Mar 30th, 2013, 18:11
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Day 3 – 20 Mar – Ahmedabad/Bhuj Drive and a relaxed evening

We were on the road driving towards Bhuj by 7.15 am. We intended to take a short Tea & breakfast break during the course of our drive hence started off a bit early. We drove towards Sanand & just a few kilometers before Viramgam and took the stipulated break, enjoyed our first ‘Kucthchi masala chai’ and some hard Idlis with sambhar. Made some enquiries about the direction in which we needed to drive from a local villager, and started off our journey!





It was a long day and we spent the first half only on driving and of course enjoying the surroundings and the interesting sights which presented themselves in front of us throughout our drive! More than the destination the journey seems so interesting all the time – the ever-changing landscapes, people and animals passing in front of our eyes and vanishing in just few seconds is joyous to watch. And also, if the roads are as good as the ones in Gujarat, I would enjoy being behind the steering wheel myself.

As we drive along the National Highway, we see some temporary settlements in the fields. The crops have been harvested and the villagers are busy in the morning packing and loading the gunny bags with paddy (?) on to the trucks.



Travelling in Gujarat and especially closer to LRK or GRK, one can never miss this sight!! The colorful phatphatis zooming past you either completely loaded with people, sheep or some goods!!






First glimpse of the Salt pans even before we reach Bhuj!!



Just about 45 Kms before Bhuj, we passed through Dhamadka, a major centre of Ajrakh block-printing technique. I had a glimpse (I had to hop into the vehicle sooner because we were yet to reach Bhuj and were already hungry – it was 1.30 pm), of the raw material being processed before it was sent for printing! The cloth is washed, then dried and dyed. It is washed again thoroughly I big water tanks to remove the excess dye and it is dried out in the sun before being sent for printing!





At a circle in Bhuj



By 2.30 pm we were in the hotel. The hotel was very good. The hotel is located very close to the airport & it is important to note here that there is a military/BSF outpost close-by. One can hear ear-piercing sounds of the fighter planes flying right above ones head as the pilots practice every day in the morning and evenings. Some of the pilots also stay regularly in the same hotel, howz that?

Our room was very neat & clean. Within 15 minutes we were in the restaurant and had ordered for roti (Indian bread), sabzi (curry) and dal with steamed rice. I had a refreshing Iced-Lemon Tea, even before the lunch arrived!!



After our siesta and some enquiries at the hotel reception it was finalized that we could keep the next whole day for local sightseeing and spend sometime this evening in a nearby garden. Sounds good, I thought and we set out to this 'Hill Garden’ which was about 3 kms from our hotel. About just a kilo meter & half away a beautiful temple by the roadside caught our attention. We just stopped the vehicle on the road, took some snaps and drove past to the garden.

The temple



The Hill Garden – I observed that it is a popular place favored by the local people in Bhuj. I had read that it was a dream of then collector Mr. Pradeep Sharma and the Chief Minister. It was inaugurated by the chief minister Mr. Narendra Modi. The park houses an Amphitheater, mud pool for kids, some fun activities like giant wheel, various rides, a small food court and a museum. I am told that it is a part of greater Bhuj development after the 2001 Earthquake.

One needs to buy the entrance ticket of Rs. 5/ per head.





A view from one end of the HIll Garden - a few houses at the base.



Blue Whale Hous, inside the Garden:



The original skeleton of a Blue whale found nearby marshy 'Sir Creek area', is displayed in this building.



And then the food court, where I could not resist having a 'Kala Katta' Ice Gola.



Around 7.00 pm, we started back to our hotel and again while on our way back the temple by the roadside caught our attention. We did not have anything interesting to do in the hotel so we spent some time exploring this temple. It indeed was a beautiful Jain temple – Trimandir! I was more than happy to take some photographs inside the temple.



Inside the temple



The idol of the current Thirthankar, inside the temple.



Loved the decorative chhatri (umbrella)!



The temple also has a Shivling mandir



And a temple with the idols of Vishnu (?), Balaji, Bala Krishna in the cradle, Srinathji(?)

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