My Pilgrimage to Some Architectural Wonders of Karnataka

Reply
#1 Jan 19th, 2012, 18:33
Join Date:
Mar 2010
Location:
Kolkata
Posts:
2,770
  • biman is offline
#1
“Writing is the only thing that, when I do it, I don’t feel I should be doing something else.”
– Gloria Steinem

My attitude towards writing sounds very similar to above, but implies something very opposite. “Writing is the only thing that, I do, when I don’t feel I have anything else to do.” And hence I restrained myself. More so, as I found my earlier stints were too poor even for my own satisfaction. But this time I am going to repeat the same mistake, mainly encouraged by a number of IM members, reassured by the various activities of still profit making BCCI, and prompted by the fact that I ventured into some lesser trodden paths during my last visit to the state of “many worlds”. The feedbacks, if you have any (and specially the negative ones), should be directed to aarosh, kshil, naveenamohanarao and snonymous, for they are the reason this thread saw daylight.


Before we start our journey through words and photos, let’s have a look at the brief itinerary:

Sept 30: Started from Howrah

Oct 1: Reached Secunderabad in the evening, then to Bidar by car (130 km)

Oct 2: Sightseeing in Bidar

Oct 3: Ashtur in the morning, then to Basavakalyan, Narayanpura and Jalasangvi and finally left for Bijapur by night service bus (280 km)

Oct 4: Reached Bijapur early in the morning, visited Gol Gumbaz

Oct 5: Sightseeing in Bijapur

Oct 6: Bijapur to Badami by train (123 km). Spent afternoon at Agasthya Tirtha and Bhootnathnath Temple complex

Oct 7: Visited Trikuteshwar temple and Sarswati temple at Gadag followed by a temple tour at Lakkundi

Oct 8: Trip to Aihole, Pattadakal, Mahakut and Banashankari from Badami by hired auto

Oct 9: Badami to Hospet by bus. (150), then to Hampi by auto

Oct 10-13: Various activities at Hampi

Oct 14: Left for Kolkata via Hospet

Next: Prelude
"There is no happiness for him who does not travel ... Therefore, wander!" - Aitareya Brahmana, Rig Veda.

My Photos
Last edited by biman; Jan 20th, 2012 at 14:27.. Reason: Adding link
#2 Jan 19th, 2012, 19:31
Join Date:
Mar 2010
Location:
Kolkata
Posts:
2,770
  • biman is offline
#2
Prelude:

A few of the “many worlds”, that Karnataka tourism advertises, were in our consideration when planning for the two week long trip during Durga Puja this year. All in all, we couldn’t stretch it more than 16 days. And hence finally we zeroed on the following four worlds – those of Bahamani’s, Adil Shahi’s, Chalukya’s and Vijayanagara. The places now marked as Bidar, Bijapur, Badami and Hampi in modern atlas.

While enjoying this fortnight long delicious buffet of architectural marvels, I got a rather rare chance to taste some of the not so well known architectural sites outside the popular tourist trail. The travel story, provided it qualifies in that category, will be more focused on the later group.

The Initial Hiccup:

We met the biggest surprise of our trip at its very earliest hours, when we reached Howrah station around midnight. Our train, coming from Guwahati had not reached even Malda (which is over 400 km from Howrah) by then. We knew for sure it wouldn’t be able to beat the Sun to reach Howrah, but decided against going back home. We made our first hotel stay in our own city. Finally the train arrived, delayed by 14 hours and reached Secunderabad by further delaying half an hour on route.

We had planned to skip Hyderabad this time and start from Bidar, to make it exclusively a Karnataka tour. But another surprise was ready in store at Secunderabad Station: APSRTC buses were on strike as a part of Telengana movement, it was already past 7 PM and Bidar is nearly 130 kms from there. After a very short discussion followed by a little longer hunt for hired car followed by even longer bargaining on hiring charges, we found ourselves (3 in total) sharing a Tata Sumo with another group of 4 for a nominal charge of 2500 rupees per group. The journey concluded by waking up the sleeping hotel boys around midnight and checking in at the most unlikely hours we would have planned for. We had done something very similar only once before, and that too just 48 hours earlier.


The first sunshine of October 2011 at Duvvada, AP close to Vishakhapattanam

Name:  Sunrise@Duvvada.jpg
Views: 2496
Size:  89.3 KB

View from the bridge over river Godavari

Name:  Godavari-bridge.jpg
Views: 2815
Size:  95.9 KB

A typical Andhra Village as seen from train

[Name:  Andhra-village.jpg
Views: 7161
Size:  23.3 KB


The Barids of Bidar:

Next morning I woke up at 6 AM and went out for a walk. Our hotel was very close to the central bus station, which is far from the main attractions of Bidar, namely the Fort and Mahmood Gawan Madrasah. But a number of Barid Shahi rulers’ tombs including the more known, looked after and visited “Barid Shahi Park” are scattered in this part of the town. My morning stroll was meant to cover them.

Just after crossing the bus station I saw a dome behind trees. According to the map, it was either of Ali Barid’s or his son Ibrahim Barid’s tomb. Getting close I found a square structure on a raised stone terrace with four arches on four sides each of which are flanked by double tiers of arched recesses. A single large dome crowns the tomb that is devoid of any minaret, the general architectural feature of all other Bahamani and Barid Shahi tombs in Bidar. Another similar tomb at some distance – reinforced my earlier assumption. The place was used by local people as a peaceful and quiet escape for various good reasons – study, Pranayam and Yoga.


The first glimplse of Ali Barid's Tomb

Name:  Ali-Barid_Tomb.jpg
Views: 2332
Size:  93.7 KB

Same from another angle

Name:  Ali-Barid_Tomb1.jpg
Views: 2692
Size:  27.7 KB

Tomb of Ali Barid's son, Ibrahim Barid

Name:  Ibrahim-Barid_Tomb.jpg
Views: 2467
Size:  23.9 KB


Next I set out for the even lesser visited Barid Shahi tombs across the rail track. By that time I had befriended three boys, Sachin, Abinash and Asutosh, who were doing some physical exercises at Ali Barid’s tomb. They showed me the way towards the mausoleums as their home was close by them. After a vociferous 5 minute walk we reached our destination.

This compound consists of four structures, and unlike the twin tombs of father and son I was coming from, each of them was architecturally altogether different than the other three. The first structure one encounters after entering the premise is square in shape with pyramidal roof and resembles two Bahmani tombs of later period at Ashtur. The adjoining tomb, which is the biggest among the four, is also a square structure with a number of arched recesses outside. The inner wall becomes octagonal in the upper half by use of squinches, but absence of any dome on the top indicates its incompleteness.


The first pair of the four unknown tombs

Name:  Other-Barid_Tomb1.jpg
Views: 2507
Size:  47.3 KB

The squinch pattern inside the largest of the four tombs

Name:  Other-Barid_Tomb_squinch.jpg
Views: 4352
Size:  67.5 KB


The remaining two tombs, further inside mimics the above pair in many respects. The first one is covered by a dome while the second one lacks it and the domed one has plaster on walls while the other once again has none. The most disappointing aspect of this complex was that there was no plaque from ASI to shed any light on who were resting under the graves there. Nevertheless, I was happy to venture into some place with historical and architectural value, although it had little success in attracting appreciable number of visitors compared to its more successful cousins.


The second pair of the unknown tombs

Name:  Other-Barid_Tomb2.jpg
Views: 2691
Size:  47.5 KB

Next: The Bahamani Belongings
Last edited by biman; Jan 20th, 2012 at 14:30..
#3 Jan 19th, 2012, 20:44
Join Date:
Feb 2010
Location:
Kolkata
Posts:
2,991
  • kshil is offline
#3
I have been waiting for long, really long for this report to come up. Extremely happy to discover it here Biman and I am sure now many would understand why some of us were really behind you to write this report. Brilliant prelude and some captivating snaps are just the tip of the iceberg, I am sure

One request, please link the image rather than uploading as attachments, considering the brilliance of your snaps, they deserve a better quality and that's not possible by uploading it as an attachment here.

This is the thread now I would be following regularly!!
#4 Jan 19th, 2012, 20:50
Join Date:
Feb 2008
Location:
Mumbai
Posts:
4,094
  • snonymous is offline
#4

Great Start Biman

Congratulations Biman for finally getting down to a travelogue, and a great beginning it is too.

That's horrible about the 14hr delay and bus strike.

I'll be following this thread too.
Travelpod / Flickr


-----------------------------------------------------
#5 Jan 19th, 2012, 20:57
Join Date:
May 2008
Location:
New Delhi
Posts:
3,805
  • sagarneel is offline
#5
Biman, all this while you had enchanted us through your photos. Great to see you pitching in with your write-up. Great start, and don't worry, we will direct all the comments (negative or otherwise ) towards the great names you've mentioned ...you just concentrate on your writing and posting the photos!!!

Superb start, and welcome to the writer's league! Don't worry, its not a literature forum, we all just want to learn about new places!

BTW...how come all the stalwarts was off to Karnataka?

I'd be glued to this....waiting for more!
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid Albert Einstein


Trip reports:

Syalsaur/ Deoria taal/ Chopta trip report, West and South Sikkim trip report , Puri/ Konark trip report
#6 Jan 19th, 2012, 21:11
Join Date:
Mar 2010
Location:
Kolkata
Posts:
2,770
  • biman is offline
#6
Thank you both Kaushik-Da and Snonymous, for your encouraging words. And as I have already confessed, it's the incessant encouragement from you people (and also from Aarosh and Naveena) that made me sit and start writing.

A word of caution:

It will move at snail's pace, if not slower. As we are habituated with the ultrafast processes (courtesy Kaushik-Da), it may induce an appreciable amount of boredom in its followers mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kshil View Post One request, please link the image rather than uploading as attachments,
I will give it a try when I post the next part, hopefully tomorrow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snonymous View Post That's horrible about the 14hr delay and bus strike.
Well, from my part it was not horrible at all. Rather I enjoy unexpected incidents. I had only one grudge, had to give Gulbarga a miss.
#7 Jan 19th, 2012, 21:16
Join Date:
Mar 2010
Location:
Kolkata
Posts:
2,770
  • biman is offline
#7
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post welcome to the writer's league!
I am privileged to enroll in the league of these extraordinary ladies and gentlemen, rather travelers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post BTW...how come all the stalwarts was off to Karnataka?
Great men think alike.
#8 Jan 19th, 2012, 21:32
Join Date:
May 2008
Location:
New Delhi
Posts:
3,805
  • sagarneel is offline
#8
Quote:
Originally Posted by biman View Post Great men think alike.
No wonder why I didn't achieve greatness (neither was I a born great )
#9 Jan 19th, 2012, 21:35
Join Date:
Feb 2008
Location:
Mumbai
Posts:
4,094
  • snonymous is offline
#9
Quote:
Originally Posted by biman View Post
It will move at snail's pace, if not slower. As we are habituated with the ultrafast processes (courtesy Kaushik-Da), it may induce an appreciable amount of boredom in its followers mind.



Biman, dont worry. Nobody can match Kshil's speed at posting his entire trip log in one quick shot! Take your time, we wont get bored.

I agree with Kshil, do post your photos from some external link, else they wont appear on the post as good as they ought to.
#10 Jan 19th, 2012, 22:39
Join Date:
Feb 2010
Location:
Kolkata
Posts:
2,991
  • kshil is offline
#10
Quote:
Originally Posted by biman View Post Thank you both Kaushik-Da and Snonymous, for your encouraging words. And as I have already confessed, it's the incessant encouragement from you people (and also from Aarosh and Naveena) that made me sit and start writing.
Biman, many of us travel rather love to travel but not all could have same ability to look into every details, the details which if documented can be precious possession for all who would like to retrace the route. I understood your brilliant ability to get details when you answered my every single query on Badami and Hampi. I am sure this thread is going to be the Bible of many who would like to travel in this circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by biman View Post A word of caution:

It will move at snail's pace, if not slower. As we are habituated with the ultrafast processes (courtesy Kaushik-Da), it may induce an appreciable amount of boredom in its followers mind. .

Quote:
Originally Posted by snonymous View Post Biman, dont worry. Nobody can match Kshil's speed at posting his entire trip log in one quick shot! Take your time, we wont get bored.
Biman, that's actually not my strength, it's rather a way of covering one of my weaknesses, if I leave it in between, it's very difficult for me to set the pace again and come into the flow, so better to do it at one shot for me. Also it's a kind of project closing for me before start planning for the next venture, so earlier, the better. . But excellent reports by SK, snonymous, Sagar, Mithun, Naveena and many others always attract many of us whatever time they take to post next installment. You need to wait for good things, so we all are ready to wait, don't worry

Quote:
Originally Posted by biman View Post I will give it a try when I post the next part, hopefully tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by snonymous View Post I agree with Kshil, do post your photos from some external link, else they wont appear on the post as good as they ought to.
It's actually much easier and less time consuming if you have these snaps uploaded in some other site. I am sure you would find it a better way to do justice to your snaps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by biman View Post Well, from my part it was not horrible at all. Rather I enjoy unexpected incidents. I had only one grudge, had to give Gulbarga a miss.
Hmm, anyway I really like the signature of your profile that says

"A good traveler is one who does not know where he is going to, and a perfect traveler does not know where he came from." - Lin Yutang
#11 Jan 19th, 2012, 22:51
Join Date:
Feb 2010
Location:
Kolkata
Posts:
2,991
  • kshil is offline
#11
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post Biman, all this while you had enchanted us through your photos. Great to see you pitching in with your write-up. Great start, and don't worry, we will direct all the comments (negative or otherwise ) towards the great names you've mentioned ...you just concentrate on your writing and posting the photos!!!

Superb start, and welcome to the writer's league! Don't worry, its not a literature forum, we all just want to learn about new places!
Can't really agree more, we are ready to take all comments as we know what type of comments are coming in this thread, we have to discuss with Nadreg on how to share all the "Likes" this thread is going to get

Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post BTW...how come all the stalwarts was off to Karnataka?
Quote:
Originally Posted by biman View Post Great men think alike.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post No wonder why I didn't achieve greatness (neither was I a born great )
Ha ha, nice discussion, have you ever thought why all the stalwarts were off to India, leaving rest of the world. Sagar, are you sure you haven't been to Karnataka, anyway you have such a surprising connection with the letter "K"
#12 Jan 19th, 2012, 22:55
Join Date:
Apr 2011
Location:
Bangalore
Posts:
937
  • mithun123 is offline
#12
Biman ,
First of all , thanks for starting the travelogue and after Kaushik-da and Naveena's TL , it will be another treasure in the "One State ... Many Worlds" forum. Secondly , thanks once again for all the photography location tips you had given to Kaushik-da.

A great start , I had dreamed of reading this TL so many times and finally here it is and with a bang. Excellent start of your TL(Though the start of the journey was a painful one) - I will glued to this thread.
#13 Jan 19th, 2012, 23:38
Join Date:
Jul 2011
Location:
India
Posts:
4,416
  • naveenamohanrao is offline
#13
Lo behold, 'DEAN' has had the final say!

OK, just for a few hours I am into the kitchen and the 'nectar' has already been churned and distributed here?

Biman, a great start! Now, we will sit back and really enjoy this report.

The photographs need no praise from me but that doesn't mean I should keep quiet. The 2nd photo of 'Ali Barid's Tomb', that you have posted, is mind blowing, surreal, etc etc!
#14 Jan 19th, 2012, 23:40
Join Date:
Jul 2011
Location:
India
Posts:
4,416
  • naveenamohanrao is offline
#14
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post No wonder why I didn't achieve greatness (neither was I a born great )
, YOU are born for much better things, my dear Sir!
#15 Jan 20th, 2012, 00:55
Join Date:
Mar 2010
Location:
Kolkata
Posts:
2,770
  • biman is offline
#15
Quote:
Originally Posted by sagarneel View Post No wonder why I didn't achieve greatness (neither was I a born great )
Quote:
Originally Posted by kshil View Post Sagar, are you sure you haven't been to Karnataka, anyway you have such a surprising connection with the letter "K"
Quote:
Originally Posted by naveenamohanrao View Post , YOU are born for much better things, my dear Sir!
Thanks to Kaushik-Da and Naveena for making my job easier.

@Sagarneel: Don't think that I haven't had a look at your posts on Sikkim. I am a silent but big fan of your reports and pictures.
Reply

Similar Threads

Title, Username, & Date Last Post Replies Views Forum
Suggest an itinerary for Karnataka Pilgrimage Trip by Car Sep 6th, 2011 21:20 6 2109 India Travel Itinerary Advice
the wonders of rebirth May 11th, 2011 02:12 21 5961 Spirituality and Religion in India
the seven wonders Dec 6th, 2004 16:49 0 1330 India Travel News and Commentary


Posting Rules

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Forum Rules»
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.3.2
© IndiaMike.com 2018
Page Load Success