The sari specialists

#1 Jan 12th, 2019, 13:08
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The sari as living heritage—a new generation of textile enthusiasts is taking the popularity of the garment beyond Instagram hashtags to explore its archival value


Saris from Martand Singh’s Khadi collection, commissioned in 2002. Photo: Jithendra M/Mint

Coimbatore’s 100-year-old Lakshmi Mills—one of the oldest textile mills in one of the biggest textile hubs in India—is now fully mechanized. The amount of yarn and cloth produced here is no longer measured in units of length, but units of weight—in quintals and tonnes instead of metres. Yet, from 20-27 January, a 30,000 sq. ft hall inside the mill’s compound will be given over to the display and study of handspun, handwoven cotton cloth. A week-long exhibition and conference organized by the Bengaluru-based Registry of Sarees, a resource and study centre for Indian textiles, will be held here. Titled Meanings, Metaphors, the event will showcase 108 Khadi saris and fabric swatches from a unique collection commissioned by the late textile historian, revivalist and conservationist Martand Singh for his Vishwakarma series of exhibitions that travelled the world between 1982-92.

The showcase will be accompanied by talks, discussions and workshops on handloom and weaving. It will also touch upon the dynamics between the so-called rivals, handlooms and power looms, and the need for both to coexist. The show, which was first held in November at a major weaving cluster in Chirala, Andhra Pradesh, will move to Bengaluru later this year.

Late last year, Bengaluru-based sari label Angadi Silks found itself in the spotlight when it dressed Deepika Padukone in her wedding and reception saris. As the ensuing discussion over the saris’ provenance showed, today’s sari lovers are keen to know more about where their favourite garment comes from—who designed this, who made this, which weaving tradition does it belong to, what is the name of the technique used? Angadi itself is mindful of this need to know—it has produced coffee-table books on the family’s own centuries-old textile history. Colourful, informative posters on popular sari weaving, dyeing and embroidery techniques line the walls of its flagship store in Bengaluru.

But the explosion of social media posts has also resulted in self-styled experts and inaccurate tags, and along with that, a certain amount of misinformation about the provenance of saris. Shows like Meanings, Metaphors are attempts to set the record straight and be as accurate as possible about a living culture and art form.

Livemint
#2 Jan 12th, 2019, 14:21
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Some great books on this..
#3 Jan 13th, 2019, 04:22
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This town seems to be a significant place for hand loomed work... https://www.craftsvilla.com/blog/mah...-a-maheshwari/
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#4 Jan 13th, 2019, 12:04
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There are quite a few town well known for their hand loomed work. Paithan, Sambalpur, Thirubuvanam etc.
#5 Jan 13th, 2019, 13:32
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The list of handloom clusters of India as recognized by the government are here : http://handlooms.nic.in/User_Panel/U...px?TypeID=1242
A great contribution of former prime minister Indira Gandhi was the surge in popularity of hadnwoven sarees - she immortalized many weaves and fabrics that she favored. Her biographer pupul jayakar, mentions odisha ikat, pochampally and Tamil Nadu temple border and khadi as her favored types. Later J Jayalalithaa made a few types from Tamil Nadu very popular. Cut to the present day - our external affairs minister Ms Sushma Swaraj and defence minister Nirmala Seetharaman are always seen in handwoven sarees. Some famous personalities lend their name to saree types - m.s. subbulaxmi favored a particular deep shade of blue - sapphire color amost - in kanchipuram silk so much that till date the color is named MS blue in her honor in the the kanchi silk saree trade.
#6 Jan 13th, 2019, 15:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vaibhav_arora View Post Some famous personalities lend their name to saree types - m.s. subbulaxmi favored a particular deep shade of blue - sapphire color amost - in kanchipuram silk so much that till date the color is named MS blue in her honor in the the kanchi silk saree trade.
Regularly worn by her great granddaughters especially for MSS-associated events.

Here they are not wearing it

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#7 Jan 14th, 2019, 03:35
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I got my confinement in the PRC by knowing a type of sari. I walked up to someone in the job market and complimented her on her nice Dhaka sari. I used what smattering of Bengali I knew to introduce myself as some looking for a job. She replied she was looking for an applicant for a position and that was my interview. What a strange ride it is to crib a bit from...
#8 Jan 14th, 2019, 04:39
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#8

The sari specialists

Your confinement? Was that your first pregnancy?
#9 Jan 14th, 2019, 06:44
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I am a prisoner of the PRC..

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