What I discovered about weaving saris on a Pochampally Ikat trail

#1 Jan 9th, 2018, 22:28
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  • aarosh is offline
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The process of tying rubber bands on the yarn as per design, to resist dyeing in that area.

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More often than not, one would associate the word "resist" with a form of protest, but on a recent trip to Andhra Pradesh's Pochampally villages, I learnt there's much more to it.

I went to a village and handloom park weaving Pochampally Ikat saris and material during a textile trail curated by experiential travel expert Breakaway, led by textile technologist Durga Venkataswamy, and it opened up a whole new world for me.

A traditional dyeing technique is called "resist" and results in glorious Ikats, Batik, tie and dye et al. Each takes shape through a separate and laborious method of blocking specified areas of the yarn prior to weaving, depending on the pattern, to prevent it from receiving the dye: that is, the method of printing these blocks, as it were, is different for each pattern. In college, I remember making Batik paintings using wax.

For weaving Ikat, a design is first chosen and the yarn tied at suitable spots after being tightly wrapped (at the handloom park, strips from old cycle rubber tubes were used to tie the yarn), such that the tied spot resists it isn't dyed.

If a pattern includes more than one colour, the procedure is repeated a number of times. This may be done on individual yarns or bundles. Each time a new colour is added, the bound yarn is opened, ready for another round of wrapping.

This gives Ikat its unique feathered look. It's extremely time consuming and having seen its weaving, I, for one, will never complain about the price of Ikat when I buy the material.

Most Ikats are single Ikats, which means that either the warp or the weft is tied-dyed. Double Ikats require great dexterity, as both the warp and weft are tied-dyed and the weaver has to work on double looms.
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#2 Jan 9th, 2018, 23:19
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  • Nick-H is offline
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Nice. I particularly like ikat design!

The word resist is used in other technologies too, such as etching, whether of name plates, art or printed circuit boards.
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#3 Jan 10th, 2018, 14:59
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  • vaibhav_arora is offline
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We should probably start a Your favorite weave in India thread ...

On second thoughts, it's here - http://www.indiamike.com/india/arts-...2/#post2073063
#4 Jan 11th, 2018, 14:08
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  • edwardseco is offline
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Ah Pochampally, my boy got try his hand at weaving. It turns out my sis in law had treated somebody there for JE so it was a grand tamasha and yes my spouse helped out the local economy. the only thing that disturbed me was a big sign just beyond the turnoff to the village was a big sign announcing big new housing development for Hyderabad..

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