BAGORA: A Gem in Wilderness (with a slice of Dooars)

That was a wonderful effort, snonymous!! Thanks a lot.
Regarding visiting Dooars, I think its a must visit for all nature lovers. Certainly one of the most scenic places in Bengal.

You are so right Biman. It should be WHEN!

There is so much to see in Bengal but it is quite far away so requires a longer stay to do it justice, as well as allow for travel time to and from Mumbai. But definitely, one day.

Oosadharon......wonderful... ....its not a Travel Report, its a portrait

and a special thank to snonymous


my wife always thinks I'm the only sepsis under that category.........now I can refer you without your permission

hello sir,

nice to have u online.........need help on bagora....

Sir,

im excited about Bagora.....ive talked to DFO office at kurseong. they told me that the rate is 500/- for the bunglow. but the booking is done just before 7/10 days......is it sir ?

I was busy uploading my Bagora photographs in the Album. Hence, I did not notice your message. Sorry for the delayed response.

Any how, I am not sure when they actually open their booking. I have got the booking through a gentleman, whose identity I will not be able to divulge (I am under oath!) He booked it for me and kept booking permit with him (I suppose) which was handed over to me by another gentleman when I reported to him at Kurseong. In other words, I did not have any booking papers in my possession till I reach Kurseong. I took a chance and luckily for me it clicked. But as per feedback from different sources, I have a feeling that it will be very very difficult to get booking by any private party, unless of course one has proper contact at proper places! Having said that I must also agree that there is no harm in trying. I saw one more Homestay type accommodation called Dicky's Homestays, at Bagora. When we tried to contact them, we found that the place is under lock & key. Locals told us that the place is made operative during season. Travel KR, a travel agency in Kolkata, appears to have promoted this place. I could not inspect the facilities over there, but their location is equally good, though a bit crowded. I have read somewhere in IM forum that one of our fellow IMers actually stayed there and found the arrangement & hospitality okay. But, if you love nature, tranquility, please visit Bagora. It is a dream destination in every sense, yet not spoilt.

Many many thanks, Guys! I honestly don't think I deserve such compliments. I just love to travel, this has become only passion now a days. In my younger days, it was poetry and theater, slowly traveling has taken over. I know my limitations and weaknesses. For example, my command on English language is not so good and at times it creates a barrier to express my feeling properly. Yet, you all had liked my report and I am really grateful to you all.

@snonymous

I will try that out as per your advise in the 2nd part of my report. If I fail, I know you are there to help me! For unknown cactus on huge sal trees, here is one more pic from my collection. This one is taken from Chilapata Forest.

Ashida, saw all the pictures of Bagora..Simply heaven!! I am surely going to add this place in my list of destinations next timee i travel to north bengal. please post the detailed trip report of Bagora as soon as possible!! apologies for chasing !!

Dada you are such a gentleman ... please you need not be so self-effacing dada ... we are all in love with your trip report as well as the spectacular photos...

Just carry on .... we are in queue to watch it

Now that I have completed uploading my pics, I have just started writing, give me 2 to 3 days time (I will try earlier) and 2nd part of my report will contain everything on Bagora and Kurseong. Actually both Bagora & Kurseong are really revelations for me. Bagora, well it was completely unknown to me, but Kurseong is very much known. I must have crossed Kurseong at least 10 times while travelling to Darjeeling. Honestly, I didn't even given a proper look at the place so far, but now I know it was a mistake. There are so much to see and experience at Kurseong and one should not neglect the place at all. If you go to Bagora, please keep at least a day or two for Kurseong also.

TRIP REPORT continues…..


Day-3 (22/02/12 Tuesday)


I took a break from my report when we were on our way to Kurseong and our shared SUV was gaining height after crossing Mahananda WLS. Though journey by shared vehicle is much cheaper than exclusive vehicle, yet the design of these shared vehicles are not tourist friendly in the sense that the Operators had remodeled the vehicle in such a way that it can carry maximum number of people, even more than permissible limit! In the process, windows, views are totally obstructed, and the travel, though passing through one of the most picturesque terrains of our country, become total monotonous! We were getting the feel that we are steadily and sharply gaining height and weather was getting cooler. In between a glimpse of Tea Garden, a few frame of forest are passing by. The main Road (National Highway) is closed due to huge landslides on two points and therefore all Darjeeling bound vehicles are using the only available road via Pankhabari. This road is very stiff and weak and/old vehicles are unable to climb this stiff road. Journey by this road is a bit scary. Contrary to earlier prediction, however, we did not face any traffic jam and reached Kurseong Taxi Stand, which just adjacent to Railway Station, within an hour only.

We met our contact person here and got all the permits etc. from him. We were briefed that though for cooking food in the Bungalow, every thing is required to be carried from Kurseiong, our good friend had pre arranged everything and we don’t need to buy or carry anything. He told us that the charges for food and accommodation would have to be paid to Chowkidar of the Bungalow. The Chowkidar-cum-Cook stays in the same premises, and would be available any time as necessary. He also told us to take out all our woolens, including heavy woolens, and put these on right from Kurseong because although Kurseong is not that cold, Bagora touched 3 degree Celsius today! He also arranged a Maruti Omni for us to go to Bagora, which is appox 17 KM from Kurseong via Dilaram Crossing. We bought a few snacks viz. Chips, Cakes, Local made Biscuits etc. Kurseong has great Bakery culture and local bakery products are just superb. Presumably, the town has inherited this bakery culture from British days. We thanked our contact person and started for Bagora, our dream destination!!

We crossed some very famous Tea Estates like Makaibari, a few renowned Schools and finally reached Dilaram Crossing within half an hour. Dilaram crossing is on the way to Darjeeling. All the Darjeeling bound vehicles go through this place. One can take Darjeeling bound vehicle from Siliguri and get down at Dilaram. From Dilaram, Bagora is appox. 3 KM, one can hire a local taxi, which shuttles between Dilaram and Bagora. Journey time from Dilaram to Bagora is just 15 minutes. We started to feel the biting cold from Dilaram itself despite the fact that we have put on all our heavy woolen, specially our open hands were felt like frozen ice (we did not have gloves). From Dilaram, we found heavy fog engulfing the roads, trees, houses and everything. So much so, the visibility was so poor that the Driver had to put on the fog light to navigate through the road to Bagora. Driving the next 3 KM stretch was really testing the skill of our Driver. However, shortly we reached a place where roads from 4 directions met and crossed each other. The driver informed that we have finally reached Bagora. Meanwhile, the intensity of fog increased further and through this accumulated mist & fog, we could see few houses around and the place looked like Center Point of a locality. There was hardly anybody on the road, we found one or two tiny shops, but all were closed. Day light is fading out sharply. Our Driver was not aware of the exact location of the Bungalow and he had to get down and get hold of a local guy to take the direction. Our car left the Center Point (It is not named as “Center Point” as such, but I will call it so for easy identification) and took right turn. Suddenly all the localities vanished from our sight, forest become dense, we are flanked by huge Sal and Dhupi Trees and fog and mist engulfed all of us and everything around us. There is nobody around; we can hear the sound of car engine and chirpings of birds only. We came downwards for a minute or so, then suddenly we can spot a Gate and as the vehicle nearing the Gate, we found a yellowish structure with green top. Let me post a few photographs, which will show what we first saw on the reaching the Bungalow compound.


http://www.indiamike.com/files/image...t-bungalow.jpg

The Chowkidar, Mr. Chetri, was waiting outside for us and he immediately ushered us in the Drawing-cum-Dining Room of the Bungalow. Mr. Chetri did not ask us to produce the Permit or any other paper, which means he must have been alerted beforehand about our arrival. To our pleasant surprise, we found that the Drawing Room is fairly large room, which are having a Electric Room Heater, couple of sofa set, a TV with Tata Sky connection on one side and there is a Dining Table with glass top on the other side. To our pleasant surprise we find the room has got a Fire Place at the center and wood logs are burning in the Fire Place, which has made the Room very comfortable and cozy. A few photographs for the Drawing Room and the Fire Place:




There are total 2 huge bedrooms in the Bungalow, each having attached bath with large size beds. The beds are so large that 4 adults can easily sleep there comfortably. Each Room is furnished with quilt, blanket, pillow etc. The Bungalow is made with Pine Wood and tastefully decorated. In all, our impression is that this is the best one can expect in a place like Bagora. Honestly, I don’t think I have ever stayed in such a Bungalow in my life! A few pics of Bed Room and the attached bath. Incidentally, I may recall that one of our IMer had quarried about the interior of this Bungalow somewhere in IM forum, but there was no response to that quarry. I take this opportunity to post a few pics showing the bed room with attached bath. Pics are here:



We must admit that we were little bit disappointed with the weather condition and our inability to see the Himalayan peaks and green forest all around us, but Bungalow, the fog, the mist had lifted our spirit to a greater height! Chetri quickly prepared tea for us and having completed the inspection of the Bungalow, with a hot cup of tea in our hand, we ventured out at Bungalow compound. For a brief moment, the sun came out, played little hide & seek with us, and disappeared again under the veil of fog. The cloud or fog, whatever you call, were coming all around us, caressing us, we can feel its existence. It is a very peculiar feeling, a feeling I am unable to express in words. The fog is so dense; we are unable to see anything else, other than ourselves. It is really a bizarre feeling, it seemed to me that nothing exists in this place, except myself and every other thing is lost to eternity! The darkness descended very sharply and we are truly and surely lost. Chetri came out and asked us to come in. He later informed us that he had prepared fish, rice, Alu Gobi, Brinjal Fry and whether that is enough for us! I don’t think I need to tell you what our answer was to this quarry. We had a full course dinner little early (we did not have proper lunch), sat before TV for some time and went for sleep. It was biting cold, but room was kept warm courtesy Fireplace outside and Room Heater inside. Needless to say, we had a hell of a sleep!


Day-4 (23/02/12 Thursday)


I got up quite early hoping weather would be clear and the peaks would be visible. I removed the curtain of the window and I immediately know that weather God has some other plan for us. The fog was still there as was yesterday. I did not disturb anybody, put on all my woolens, caps, et all, and came out of the Bungalow. The sky was gloomy as usual, and the fog was all over place. Whenever there is a slight breeze, the fog or cloud changes its location, and at times, faint sign of sun comes out. The trees, the plants in the Forest Nursery are gleaming with dewdrops on them, flowers look fresh. I was all alone, standing before mysterious forest, which is partially visible at times, and at times going under veil of fog. I submit myself to all mighty nature. Honestly I am unable to explain what my exact feeling was at that particular moment, I went sort of blank, I am not sure whether I am happy or depressed! I don’t know how long I was standing there alone. Chetri came and announced that tea is ready. Other members of our team are still in bed, they were called up and we got busy in morning rituals.

Our breakfast was Puri & Sabji with another round of tea. I got a call from our contact and he informed us that as per weather forecast, the climate is not likely to improve for next 2/3 days, that we should undertake a small trek of 1.5 KM (easy walking) and reach Zero Point near Air Force Station. We were told that on a clear day, view from that point is stunning, but even if climate does not permit us to see, the walking itself would be something to cherish forever. We followed his advice and went out at around 9 AM. While walking through the Forest road, before reaching the Center Point, suddenly my wife (who was a bit ahead of me) started screaming, “deer, deer…” I rushed ahead and saw a full-grown deer just crossed the road and was running towards other side of forest. I could see only the back portion. Then, all of a sudden, another deer (must be the companion of the first one) came rushing out from our left and followed the first one in a flash! Our team was maha excited and got engaged in animated discussion over the matter. Walking very slowly and leisurely we reached the Center Point, then followed the direction and started climbing up to Zero Point. Initially there are few houses by the side of the road, thereafter, there was nothing except the trees, flowers, cactus and abundant loneliness, in a word, nature at its best! I do not have capacity of narrating the beauty of this place; I can only say that this is one of the best walks I had undertaken in whole of my life. We took about an hour to reach the View Point, a shed has been erected by the Air Force, but nothing is visible from there due to dense fog, and the “stunning view” remained ever elusive to us. We spent some time there; it was the highest point of Bagora,, appox. 8,000 ft ASL and it looked to us as if we are floating on the fog! Then we started to descend, got busy in clicking pictures on the way and reached the Center Point at around 12 Noon. A few of photographs taken during this trek are reproduced below:













All other team members returned to Forest Bungalow, I stayed back and started conversation with a few locals around. It seemed that most of them are working at Kurseong and a few of them are engaged in dairy activities at their home at Bagora. I found many of them carrying “Channa” (Cottage Cheese) to Kurseong. I met one retired Forest Department employee, who speaks fluent Bengali, and he lamented the apathy of authorities to develop this place. It seems that some shared Jeep service is available in the morning and in the evening, which ply between Bagora and Kurseong, otherwise people walk down to Dilaram Crossing and then avail bus or shared service from Dilaram to Kurseong. I read in IM Forum that some of our fellow IMers stayed at a private home stays arrangement at Bagora. I located that place; it is called Diky’s Home Stays. There was an indicator and one has climb up from the Center Point to reach the property. But, when I reached the place, I found it to be under lock and key and nobody is around. I am, therefore, unable to inspect the present arrangement and to collect other information. The locals told me that property is made fully operative during season. The Sign Board showing way to “Dicky’s Home Stays” is reproduced below:


Our lunch was frugal, only rice and egg curry. We were assured of Chicken for our dinner. No change in climate, I came out and explored the lower side of our Bungalow. There was a narrow path used by villagers to go their “Basti”. I haven’t seen any one to use this path, though! I went down a bit, the forest became denser, greener, and the green monotony is broken by a few red spots. Red Rhododendron flowers in full bloom created these red spots on green canvas. Now, I am really lost in nature, a faint view of Forest Bungalow can be seen. It looked like some mysterious structures, engulfed in fog and mist, hidden from public eye. On top of our Bungalow, I noticed a cute little hut made of wood and I thought it to be another Bungalow. But Chetri clarified that it is Rest Room for the Drivers accompanying the visitors. Please see hut:

I roamed around our Bungalow for sometime after our lunch and took some pics. Here they are:





In the afternoon, we took a stroll on the Old Military Road, which connects Kureong and Ghum via Bagora. British constructed this road as an alternative road for movement of armed forces and presently the road is rarely used. Taking stroll on this road is perhaps the best experience for me during this trip. Lofty trees, lush green meadows, easy flowing streams, chirping of unknown birds, hide and seek of fog and sun – oh what a beauty! We could not explore the road more, as we were advised not go very deep as we may encounter some wild animal, notably wild bear, around here. Brief it was, but it was the best and we are refreshed and cleansed. Some pics from my Album:






In the evening we got a call from our contact, he informed us that tomorrow morning we should get ready by 10 AM after breakfast and he will send a vehicle to pick us up and to take us to a few places of tourist interest in and around Kurseong and finally to drop us at Siliguri. We remained indoors in the evening (No sign of improvement of climate) and spent the time in front of Fire Place. We had a great dinner with chicken curry, looked like a farewell dinner served by Chetri.


Day-5 (24/02/12 Friday)


We had our breakfast, again Puree and Sabjee with tea. Cleared room rent and food bills to Chetri. The Car, a brand new Maruti Omni, came exactly at 10 AM. Loaded our luggage and we are ready to leave. The Driver, named “Chotti”, informed us that he has been instructed by our contact to take us to Kurseong via Old Military Road and he would show us (1) Chimney, (2) Dow Hill Park, (3) Dow Hill Schools, (4) Forest Training School etc which will come on the way. Then, on reaching Kurseong, he will take detour and will take us to Netaji Museum, and then to Eagle’s Craig View Point (“Durbin Dara” to locals) and from there he will directly proceed to Siliguri. He hoped to reach Siliguri by late afternoon. It is very nice and compact program and was planned in a way so that we can see almost all the places of tourist interest in & around Kurseong. Having briefed us properly, Chotti started his car.

The road, unlike the one via Dilaram, is sparely used and natural scenery around the road is much more attractive. The road is in the state of disrepair for long time, hence, we had to pass some anxious moment while negotiating through the road. But scenic beauty has compensated all our physical discomfort.

CHIMNEY


This is ruin of a Chimney (Please see photo above) built by British. While British Army used to move through this road during winter, hot waster was supplied to the men and animals accompanying the troop. A huge oven was erected by the British here, which was characterized by a tall Chimney made of brick. This Chimney became so famous that the hill on which the Chimney was erected was later named as “Chimney Hill”. Now, the Oven is no more in existence, only remnant of Oven, a ruined Chimney is still standing tall amidst ruins. We were told that now this place is famous for organic farming.


DOW HILL PARK & ZOO




This Park-cum-Zoo is under development by the Forest Deptt. It is a nice place for picnic and outing for locals.

DOW HILL SCHOOLS

Two schools, one for boys (Victoria School) and other or girls (Dow Hill) are iconic Schools. We heard its name long time back and we thought that Missionaries run both the schools. But, to our utter surprise, we were told that both the schools is actually Government-run schools and perhaps the only two Govt. schools, which run under ICSC syllabus. The school has huge compound & gothic style school buildings. We could not enter the school premises.

FOREST TRAINING SCHOOL

Forest Deptt. has established the Forest Training School here at Dow Hill, Kurseong. It has forest Museum attached to it. This is perhaps the only forest training institution in whole of West Bengal. Both the School and the Museum were closed and we had to satisfy by seeing it from the road.

NETAJI MUSEUM







We were little intrigued by this name. I was not aware that Netaji had any connection with Kurseong. But, on reaching the place, I realized that how much less we know about our freedom struggle and its leaders. Actually, this Museum is housed in a Bungalow on Gidda Pahar, near Kurseong, and this house was owned by Shri Sarat Chandra Bose, a vetaran freedom fighter and Netaji’s elder brother. This house was used by Bose Family as their summer destination and Netaji was kept under house arrest in this very house for some time in the year 1936. Due to lack of maintenance, this historic house was collapsing and then the Govt Of West Bengal had acquired it and converted it to a Museum. A permanent exhibition on Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose and Sarat Chandra Bose along with the activities of the Azad Hind Fauj has been set up in the Museum. The personal belongings of Netaji and Sarat Chandra Bose and the furnitures used by them are also kept on display. It is a pity that we could not see and study the hidden treasure properly due to paucity of time. Here, during the detention, Netaji wrote 11 letters to Emily, his wife and copies of these letters are on display here. May I dare to say, that contents of these letters are very personal and it shows tender side of a hard-core fighter. Rabindranath wrote a few letters to Nejai at this address and we saw a letter in which Tagore discusses about the proposed national anthem of free India. We saw a few furniture, like bed, Easy Chairs, Table, and even a baby Piano, used by Bose family and may be by Netaji also. It was like a pilgrimage for us. The Caretaker regretted that not many people visit this place and Visitors’ Book is virtually empty. Please, my request for future visitors, make it a point to visit this Museum whenever you are at Kurseong. Gidda Pahar comes on the way from Siliguri to Darjeeling, and this house is just by the roadside. One may break his journey for some time to visit this place. A few photographs taken from the outside (inside photography is prohibited) are reproduced on top.

EAGLE’S CRAIG VIEW POINT

The last item on our Agenda was Eagle’s Craig View Point, locally known as “Durbin Dara”. This viewpoint is located near the town seemingly perched on a cliff. One can have a sweeping view of the surrounding mountain, hill, hamlets and slopes from here. It has a watchtower and a flower garden; this place also houses the water reservoir for the entire town of Kurseong. The place also has a concrete altar built in the park with a khukri on top called “Shahid Smarak”; it was built by the DGHC. From here one can get a magnificent view of the plains of Siliguri on a clear day. Now, the skyline at this place is scattered with Mobile Towers of various Operators and it had caused some kind of visual pollution. We are not so lucky as climate was hazy and the view was not that great. However, a few photographs taken on this point are place under:




With this I conclude my Trip Report. Return journey to Siliguri was uneventful and we reached by late afternoon. The 3rd and last Part of my would be posted in a couple of days. I will deal with facts & figures (mainly cost aspects etc.) of this trip in the forthcoming part of my Report.

aatulonio

A nice vivid pictorial description. Great effort asishda.

It appears that you enjoyed the tour vary much and now enjoying sharing the joy with us. Very good report.

Asadharon(Excellent) Ashish Sir. I was just floating with your narration and pictures. You always had deep love on North East(Be it North Bengal, Sikkim , Bhutan or any other state)- and I salute your passion and enthusiasm of traveling these part of the world , and above all narrating these details such wonderfully. Kudos!!!1

Thanks guys! My special thanks goes to Sagarneel and Snonymous for guiding me to post my photographs correctly with caption. I have got it correct this time! What do you say?