Weekend at Varanasi(24-26 jan )-trip report

mantru

A weekend trip to Varanasi or Beneras or Kashi ,as it was known in earlier times was a memorable one.This was my first solo trip and I had a mixed feeling.Should I do it or change the date for later as my travel companion could not accompany me.After giving it a thought, I decided to head alone.
Left Delhi By Shiv Ganga express departing Delhi at 1830 hrs.Reached Varanasi by 10 am three hours delay(I suggest to try other trains as it delayed both ways).
After getting off the train,I took a rickshaw (paid rs 30 ) towards the ghat to look for accommodation.My first choice was Venkateshwara Lodge on the way to Dasaswamedh ghat.However when I reached there I got to know the rooms were full.So now I had no other choice but to scout for rooms.I took the lanes and finally found Alka,Ganapati,Uma guest houses(so very famous in the IM pages) however they too were full.A little boy who was standing at Alka offered me to show Puja guest house.I had no options but to go.Puja guest house is a decent option for a budget traveler, with clean rooms, attached bathrooms and hot water supply for 400 per day.The view of Ganga is good from the restaurant however I did not like the food being served there.
Day one: As soon as i landed in the hotel I had breakfast and a very good view of the ganges.The call of the ghats and the people around were too much for me to keep away.So off I went looking for the Nepali temple which i could see from Puja GH.The temple is constructed ,the same way temples are constructed in Nepal.From its courtyard I could see lalita ghat,with very little activity.I descended the steps towards the ghat and made my way towards Dasaswamedh,the main and the holiest one.As i crossed Meer and Maan Mandir ghat,I was engulfed in the activity around the main ghat.People offering pujas,bathing in the ghat,people drying clothes,boatmen offering a ride,pujaris trying to help with puja,foreigners trying to capture the essence of Varanasi and of course beggars haggling for alms.Every body was busy with something.For sometime I was lost in myself, with hundreds of people around me,till I became one with the crowds.
The ghats, as usual busy with people engaged with something or the other and if someone is not doing anything,they are watching with interest the activity going around.After doing the round of the ghats I wanted to check the markets,as I was interested to buy few sarees.I had kept the Vishwanath temple visit for the second day however while looking for sarees i came across the entrance of the temple.I deposited the camera and bag at the shop and went to have Darshan.It took me around 15 minutes to go about the temple.There were tight security around the temple as Republic day was after two days.Policeman stationed at all possible corners ,frisking people .After a tiring afternoon looking for sarees i finally went back to the ghats to relax for sometime.It was already 5 pm so i decided to take a boat ride before aarati at Dasaswamedh.
The boatman settled for rs 60/-per hour .After a nice boat ride along the ghats,we still had time for aarati so I requested the boatman to take me to the other side of the river as the sun was setting.You could feel the cold slowly increasing the intensity as the light started to fade.The sun was not visible in the western sky but the splashes of orange could be seen on the clouds.I took few pictures of the silhouette of the boats against the orange background.
It was time for aarati so we moved towards Dasaswamedh ghat.People were already packed on the step of the ghats,and boats started to settle around the ghat to view aarati.The aarati started with great pomp and show.This was the first time I witnessed aarati,in a drill like sequence.How ever it was a beautiful experience,which will still fill you with calm and silence.The feelings you get in a holy place is something unique,which connects you directly with the divine.Weather you are religious or not,whether u believe in the concept of God or not,it does not matter,you still feel the peace of mind.The day was over with dinner at the royal cafe.
Next morning i left the hotel at 6.30 am to get a view of the sunrise,it was a foggy morning.There were bleak chances of viewing the sunrise however i settled for a boat ride rather than sitting around the ghats.The boat ride was fun with fog,reducing the visibility.The bigger passenger boats have one person standing on the front tip checking if small boats are on its way,to avoid accidents.After an hour the condition still got worse,so I decided to get off the boat.There were alot of people having bath in the early hours.I walked aimlessly around the ghats for sometime till I found a tea stall near Ahalyabai ghat.I sat down began chatting with the lady,selling tea.Still after one hour the fog did not clear so I finally left the ghat,had breakfast.Afternoon I visited Sankat Mochan and durga temple and then went around the market for saree shopping.By 6 pm I was there at the ghat for the aarati session,the last one as I would be leaving the next day.The aarati as usual was wonderful with the holy atmosphere around.The day ended by aarati at lalita ghat.
Next morning i got up at 6 am.The day welcomed me with thick fog,so I went back to sleep till 8 am.Still the fog had not lifted.I had bath in the hotel and went to the ghats first thing as Monday the 26 th was Amawasya(new moon).Also a solar eclipse was forecasted. People come from far off places to take bath.So I went to the ghats washed my hands and feet and sprinkled the ganges holy water on myself. I do not have more information on the subject of amawasya or why people have bath in the ganges however I read the below article on the net.
" Mauni Amavasya occurs on the 15th day of the dark fortnight of Magh (January-February). Mauni Amavasya is believed to be the day of conjunction of the sun and the moon. Fasting is observed on this day. The devotees do not talk to each other during the observance. It is considered highly meritorious to bath in treveni sangam(allahabad) on this day. Mauni Amavasya is of special significance when it falls on a Monday. "
Thousands of people covered Dasaswamedh ghat to have the holy bath.People came in droves from the nearby villages.People kept on pouring in, the whole day.I decided to walk from Lalita ghat to Assi ghat,after i reached Assi ghat i sat down below the Peepal tree,enjoyed a coke bottle and looked on for activity around the ghat.Everyone was busy with bathing and offering puja,also it is considered good to do charity on this day as it is believed to reach their late forefathers.You can see people carrying packets of rice distributing small amounts, to beggars lining the ghat steps.
As time was fast slipping by ,I took a boat from Assi to Manikarnika ghat,as I was told to have a look at the Parvati kund located nearby.There are alot of stories around the Kund where it is believed godess Parvati ,lost her nose ring .Water from the kund flows into the ganges.The Manikarnika Ghat,one of the most important ghats lies next to Parvati kund.The cremation ghat where the last rites are performed is one of the busiest.The burning of dead bodies takes places all day throughout the year.Most of us are scared to see dead people,I was no exception.Though I am not scared of the dead physically coming to haunt us,however the images which the brain captures always disturbs us in an uncanny way.This was my first experience when i felt nothingness after viewing the burning.The feeling was something I cannot explain,so humbling.After spending some time at Manikarnika I walked towards the Chowk.By the time I reached the Chowk,10 dead bodied passed me on the way to the ghat,six were already burning.
I hurried and bought some famous sweets,and collected my sarees which were sent for polishing.I was very happy to buy one banarasi saree for myself.I found the price quite good.I cannot be very sure if the sarees is 100 % pure silk(but it felt like one),but the designs looked so lovely,that i could not resist.After spending sometime I had to rush back to the hotel to pack .My train was at 7 pm so I still had two hours after lunch,for the last time i closed my eyes took a peaceful nap amidst the chaotic surrounding and the ghats below.

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Mantru
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n kumar

A very good report. It will help all the fellow travellers who are planning to visit varansi.

mantru

thanks..

laney6

Great report!I will be there next month and hope my experience is as beautiful as yours.
Thanks,Laney

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laney

Bhaswaran

Nice report with pics.

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