Varanasi Revisited - A Trip Report and Photo Feature

Varanasi Revisited
I had been planning to visit Varanasi (Benares, Kashi) for quite some time now and finally the opportunity came to tour the city, which I first visited years back as a kid. That time Varanasi was just a city at the banks of the Ganges, for me. Boat ride was the only exciting thing in that trip, which was a first for me.
So the time had come to see Varanasi from close quarters.

Though, in retrospect, the weather was a bit hot for a person like me who loves to remain outdoors.

As we know that Varanasi is also known as “City of Lights”. So what does it means from a photographer’s perspective?
Ambient light, reflected light, refracted light, soft light, warm light, true light, shady light, monochromatic light, multi-chromatic light etc. I have tried to capture all these in a sense.



Varanasi is one of the most toured and most photographed cities in India. So it would be redundant to do a trip report or a photo-feature. However, I wanted to present my point of view so here it is.

PS: Views expressed here are based on my limited knowledge of Varanasi. So, they may or may not represent the absolute truth.

Day 1 - Train – Shiva-Ganga Express

The train started at scheduled time. Since the summers were approaching, there was no tourist rush, as is typically associated with the Varanasi-bound trains.

My coach was filled with boys heading to Allahabad to appear for SSB interview (a part of the army officer recruitment process). They all were lively cheerful lads with big dream and a genuine desire to do some thing for the country…reminded me of my school days. There was an elderly couple going to Allahabad to meet their daughter. They had brought lots of home-cooked paranthas, which they were more than willing to share with other travelers.

“In every train journey I have undertaken, my fellow travelers have always been lovely people. In my opinion, a current Indian advertisement, which shows a person being snubbed by his co-passengers, completely misrepresents the Indian train travelling culture.”

The journey was over without any notable incident except for intermittent shrieks of a small kid (he seemed to be very happy). Since his parents were not making any effort to quieten him, I guess either they had compromised with the situation (and made co-passengers compromise as well) or there was no passenger in that portion of the train.

Day 2 - Varanasi

The train arrived on time. I came out of the train station and braced myself to face the onslaught of cabbies and auto-rickshaw-walas. They were waiting there, ready to pounce on their prey but I managed to thwart the first charge. Anyways, they were more interested in the lucrative foreign customers who were coming behind me.

Suddenly there was a chaos like situation, as travelers appeared to be outnumbered by the people willing to transport them. When the dust settled, I approached a rickshaw-puller, a species lying at the base of the Indian travel industry pyramid and the weakest link in the intra-city travel sector chain. I did my best to pretend (which included copying the local accent learnt from my Benaresi school mate years back) that I was not a new comer to the city. But they all were old hands and my acting went in vain. The first price quoted to me for Dasashwamedh was Rs. 120. However, during the course of a brief lecture on honesty and the Indian value system, the price came down in arithmetic progression and the final offer was Rs. 40, which I readily accepted.

I believe we Indians have mastered the art of multi-level marketing and I did not have to wait for long to strengthen my conviction. After asking few initial questions like where I had come from, what was the purpose of my visit etc; the rickshaw-wala offered me to take to an “excellent budget hotel, within walking distance to the ghats”. Having fallen to similar bait in Delhi few years back, I declined his social-service-oriented offer.

I had not booked any hotel/guesthouse in advance so started hunting for one after reaching Dasashwamedh.



“For the first timers scared of the labyrinth-like narrow Varanasi lanes, the easiest way to find hotels (at least those featuring in Indiamike) is to reach Dasashwamedh and then walk along the ghats. Hotel Alka, Ganapati, and Palace-on-River are on the left-hand side while Hotel Sita is on the right- hand side.”

I headed for Bengali Tola (just next to Dasashwamedh ghat, on the right hand side) where lots of budget hotels are located with in sight (with less chances of getting lost in the maze of narrow lanes).

It had been almost 40 minutes in Benares and I was surprised (and happy) to have not encountered the notorious Benaresi tout so far. But think of devil and……”Are you looking some hash my friend,” he asked.

“There are stereotypes all over the world and in India a lone male backpacker is considered as a Charasiya (hash-smoker). People do sometimes confuse me with a foreigner and I have been asked the same question in other places as well.”

“No” is not a word in a Benarasi tout’s dictionary. In fact, they see a window of opportunity in a meek “no”. So, when I declined his offer (by a typical Indian sideways sway of head, which can be interpreted in many ways), he became philosophical and revealed that in Benares it is easy to pass day-time but nights can be long for a lonely person, and hash is a perfect companion. However, a stern “no” did the trick and perhaps he also realized that I was not a potentially profitable customer for him.

After checking in to a hotel, I wasted no time in getting to Dasashwamedh ghat, the center of all activities. Dasashwamedh ghat’s ecosystem contains the following elements:

• Priests engaged in their ancestral tradition of performing religious rituals. For most of them, their ancestors have been performing the same rites sitting at the same place since hundreds of years
• Boatmen (traditionally from the boat-rowing mallah community) ,who like priests, can trace back ancestry in their profession to hundreds of years
• Alms-seekers vying with their peers for money and food. Someone told me that there is a hierarchy among them as well. While the senior members occupy vantage points, a newcomer is not accepted easily
• Wandering sadhus who ideally should not stay at the same place for long but Varanasi provides enough incentives to them to be here
• Pilgrims, primarily from lower and lower-middle class. Our Indian upper class does not deem fit to go where there is no VIP entrance and the Indian middle class is too confused to decide, which side of the fence they are in.
• Foreign-tourists in a state of bewilderment and amusement, trying to make sense of the things unfolding in front of them.

“It is said that Hinduism is not a religion but a way of life and every Hindu has his/her own way of life. This results in chaos like situations especially at pilgrimage centers such as Benares. For an outsider, the key is to look for order within this chaos.”

I tried to do the same thing sitting on the steps under the shade of a tree for an hour but felt hungry eventually. So I started my long walk (lasting about 30 min.) towards Haifa Restaurant situated near Assi Ghat. I took the way through narrow lanes; however, if the Sun is not strong, one can walk along the ghats. But be prepared for overpowering stench of urine (I guess some of the Benaresis believe in giving back to the Ganges what they receive from her, though in another form) and man-made squalor.

“Haifa is a good option for overseas travelers because the food is made with less quantity of spices to suit non-Indian palate. For those who wish to stay close to the Ganges yet away from the hustle-bustle, Assi can be a good lodging option”.

The evening Ganga-Aarti is one of the key tourist attractions in Varanasi and every road in the city leads to Dasashwamedh ghat during that time. I also became a part of the rush to watch this spectacle. It was about a 30-40 min. long ritual, which included different forms of aartis amid chants of Vedic mantras.

“I have attended Ganga Aartis at Karnaprayag, Rudraprayag, Rishikesh, Haridwar, and now at Varanasi. The scale and pomp of this ritual increases as the Ganges descends from mountain to continue its journey towards the sea. At Karnaprayag, there were only five to six retired people participating in the aarti. Perhaps the more you pollute the Ganges, the grander the aarti becomes to pacify her. No price for guessing that the aartis are at their pompous best at Varanasi. “





Day 3- Varanasi

I got up early to witness sunrise at the Dasashwamedh ghat, which was buzzing with activities by now. Priests were getting ready for the long day ahead, Boatmen were urging pilgrims to take a boat ride, pilgrims were taking a holy dip and overseas travelers were frantically clicking cameras to capture them , and elderly people were singing bhajans (holy songs) inside as well as outside temples.



After spending the magic hour (as defined in photography) at the ghat, I headed for the famed Varanasi lanes. The scene here was in contrast to what I had witnessed at the ghats. The city was slowly slumbering up from sleep and the lanes were more or less empty. Dogs were in the middle of a nap after a busy night, sweepers were cleaning the streets (hats-off to them), chai-wallahs were putting the day’s first tea on stove while few backpackers were waiting for their first cup, and the garland makers were readying the stuff for early morning temple visitors.



“Tourists are like a waterhole in a place like Varanasi. You just need to sit at a place and all types of visitors will flock to you”.

I faced a similar situation while resting under a shade at a ghat. The first visitor was a Sadhu. He belonged to Ghazipur (a district close to Varanasi) and was in Varanasi since last few months. He wanted to visit Kedarnath but did not have enough money for the journey. He also wished to buy a “Kamandal” (a small water pot made from metal/wood), costing about Rs. 800, and asked me to help him. We finally settled for a much lower amount.

“Sadhus are not supposed to take money as donations. In yesteryears, they used to survive solely on food (mostly cooked) and cloths provided by the people. However, things are changing now, and ‘show me the money’ is the order of the day.”

The second visitor was a marketing man from a nearby German Bakery, claiming to be the only authentic German Bakery in Varanasi. In a city proud of its own delicious cuisine, no one would have imagined few years back that the Germans would invade India in a different manner.

“I guess German Bakery in India is one of the largest franchises without any claimant franchisor. I have seen these German Bakeries in many places from North to South India. Perhaps the original one started in Pune and the name spread to other places.”

The third visitor was a trinket seller who assessed me from head to toe and realized that I was not his potential customer but still wanted to give it a try.

The fourth visitor (infact he was not a visitor but had come to share the shade with me) was a local boy working in Delhi. He had come on a vacation to Varanasi. I had a long chat with him about Varanasi:

“Pilgrim-based tourism is a major contributor to Varanasi’s economy. Unemployment is rampant due to lack of alternate sources of income. Foreign tourists have always visited the city but their numbers have increased exponentially since last few years and so has the number of so called guides (touts). These are primarily unemployed school drop-outs whose aim is to earn quick bucks to arrange for their evening whiskey shots. Of course there are genuine guides as well but they are in a minority.”

In the afternoon, I again visited Dasashwamedh ghat, which was relatively calm now as most of the pilgrims had retired to cooler places amid rising temperatures. There I saw a bhajan-mandali (a group of people singing religious songs) engrossed in singing. It was a good photo opportunity and I went in to shooting mode.

Attachment 29531

As soon as I had finished clicking, I heard a voice from behind, “Aei, Idhar Aaana” (Hey you, come here). I saw two police constables standing at a distance. As I approached them, the interrogation started…where I had come from? …when did I come? …where I was staying? …when would I go back?

The manner and tone of questioning was such that I felt like a small time crook. After decimating me with a barrage of questions, they proudly surveyed their fiefdom (which extended to about 100 meters) like erstwhile feudal lords and ordered one of their subjects (a poor snacks-seller) to bring some snacks (of course for free). Who says that the system of lagan (a form of tax levied by Mughals and then the Britishers) has been abolished in India?

Still puzzled by the treatment received, I asked them what I had done to bring the wrath of my majesties on to me. One of them told that in the wake of bomb-blasts few years back, they had the power to frisk and question anybody (which in a way was true). But it was only my second day in Varanasi and moreover, I had not seen anybody else being checked, frisked or questioned so far. So what had I done to raise suspicion?

“If security was such a concern at Dasashwamedh, the arrangements did not instill confidence. May be these two had a divine power to figure out bad guys from pilgrims/tourists by merely looking at people. I hope that the security of ghats is not at the mercy of policemen like these two self-styled James Bonds (with 40 inch waist and 30 inch chest).”

Both of them looked sheepishly at me and had no answers to my questions. Suddenly I realized that one of them was the same constable with whom I had an argument the previous evening over an issue. So, having an argument and thus hurting the ego of an Indian constable is not a good idea Sir Jee.

“It would be wrong to paint the whole police force with the same brush. During my trip, I met with some very helpful and cordial policemen. In fact, one of them told me about the most economical way to go to Sarnath, which I visited the next day.”

I spent the whole evening exploring the other side of ghats and lanes. Sampled some of the local cuisine and did some street photography. Benares switches to a different mode in the evening. Temple bells, chants from the Sanskrit teaching schools, and the voice of musical instruments (from music schools) together create an enchanting atmosphere.



I came back to the Bengali Tola side to partake evening meal. For the lovers of Andhra-style South Indian food, there is a good and economical restaurant by the name of Venkateshwara (If I remember correctly). A good meal would not cost more than Rs. 50-60 here.

Day 4 – Sarnath

There are two common modes to reach Sarnath for a budget traveler like me:

• An auto-rickshaw on hire, which would cost anywhere between Rs. 200 and 400 (to and fro), depending on the haggling skills
• A shared auto-rickshaw, which would cost Rs. 40 (to and fro), if you are staying at Dasashwamedh

In case of first option, you have to do nothing but to stand at a visible point. Auto-rickshaws will come to you.

To avail the second option, you will have to walk to Beniya Bagh, which is about 1.5 Km from Dasashwamedh. From there, board a shared auto-rickshaw for Pandeypur @ Rs. 10. At Pandeypur, where the auto-rickshaw drops the passengers, walk for about 500 meters (by the side of flyover) towards your right. Look for white-blue painted auto-rickshaws heading towards Sarnath (@Rs. 10).

Sarnath is an ancient site where Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightment. Now days, it is also a temporary nesting place for the local love birds.

“Despite expanding rapidly since past few decades, Varanasi is still a small city. So the dating couples retreat to the safe havens of Sarnath, away from the prying eyes.”

A bunch of school girls picnicking at Sarnath were singing loudly a famous song from an old Hindi movie, which goes like “Jab Pyaar Kiya To Darna Kya”, loosely translating to “Why to fear the society once you have fallen in love”. Not to mention that it was directed at the dating couples.

“Sarnath is a “must-visit” in the itinerary of a history-buff but I picked one of the hottest days to go there. Consequently, I spent most of the time sitting under the shade and talking to fellow tourists.”

In the afternoon while I was sitting on the steps leading to Vishvanath temple at Lalita ghat, I heard a commotion from the direction of Mani Karnika ghat.

“Mani Karnika is one of the most famous cremation grounds for Hindus in India. It has been a part of the Indian mythology. Not a single day goes with a body not being cremated here. It is said that if on any day no dead body arrives, a blanket is burnt to keep the tradition of burning pyre going.”

I saw an elderly couple (foreigners) walking briskly (almost running) with a tout in the tow demanding Rs. 500. He followed them for a while but gave up the chase after some distance. It seemed as if like the beasts of prey, the Benaresi touts also operate with in their marked territories.

I do not know what exactly happened but from the conversation (between the tout and his cronies) I picked up, there were two possibilities:

• The couple was taking pictures of Mani-Karnika ghat and the tout spotted them and asked for the money. Touts around Mani-Karnika wait for the foreigners to click photos and then ask them to show the license to shoot. No such license exists and moreover those touts have no authority to ask for it. It is a known ploy; however, unsuspecting people can fall for it.
• The tout took them to a seemingly vantage point to take photos of Mani-Karnika. And then asked for an exorbitant amount in lieu of the service (if you can call it so) or as a donation for cremation of the poor people.

I finally decided to take a boat ride in the evening and fixed the price as well as the time with a boatman. But when I reached the rendezvous point on agreed time, my boatman had already left with another customer, and there was a boy waiting to take me for the ride. He told 18 years as his age but looked not more than 14 years old. He also told that he was attending a school and was not in to full-time boat rowing.
Hardly five minutes had passed when I realized that I was the only one (at that moment) with such a small rower at the helm. Guilty to the core, I immediately asked him to return to the banks. Paid the agreed amount fully and excused myself.

Day 5 – Varanasi

I was running a mild fever (probably as a result of my excursion day before) so kept indoors for most of the day, reading “Freedom at Midnight”.

Epilogue

It is said that a lifetime is insufficient to know Varanasi but for a tourist (with many more places to visit) I guess two days are enough. Add a day to it if you wish to visit tourist places around Varanasi.

Personally I prefer to stay for longer periods to get a feel of the place but the time is a luxury these days. Still I tried to know about different facets of Varanasi and about its people.

I met with a Spanish couple who were smitten by Varanasi and come to the city every time they visit India.

I had a chance to breakfast with an elderly person from Andhra Pradesh (a Southern state in India) who had been coming to Kashi since last eight years. Every time he comes, he stays for nine days (which apparently every Hindu should do) in Varanasi. “Nine” signifies the number of months a mother carries her child in her womb.

I chatted with a young man from the Mallah (boat rower) community who had drifted away from his ancestral profession, in to teaching. While we were talking, his cousins were having fun at the ghat, engaged in banter. Every boat-rower’s family has its own set of boats and its own place at the ghats. Expanding families means more boats in the Ganges, thus more competition. Future of these families is directly linked with the fate of the Ganges.

I came to know about a priest who was still conducting pooja and other rituals at an age when people generally retire. Kashi (and the Ganges) attracts enough pilgrims to sustain and support him (and other priests like him).

But for how long can the Ganges sustain the people whose life is attached with it. If we keep aside our religious sentiments regarding the Ganges, the future of the river looks bleak. Steps taken to check pollution (industrial as well municipal) have fallen short so far. Thousands of pilgrims ignorantly add to the pollution in the form of chemicals (present in soaps and shampoos), garbage, poly-bags etc. Stakeholders appear not to be bothered as they have a faith in age-old belief that the Ganges purifies everything.



Since my last visit, the Ganges has receded from its eastern banks. Locals blame the upstream dams for it, which may or may not be true; however, they need to keep their house in order first before pointing fingers at others.

As I was climbing the ghat steps, I could hear the laughter of the teacher’s cousins, oblivious of the future or may be they want to live and enjoy the present. The old priest was resting on the steps to regain breath……….

Wonderful writing and photos Photofreak!

A really good blend of your experiences and impressions with reflections on Varanasi's social and environmental issues, and useful travel information too!

I thought I saw different photos when you first posted this last night - did you take them out?

Thanks for your encouraging feedback

Yes, you are right, I removed some of the photos as there is a limitation on the number of attachments

This is wonderful!

WONDERFUL indeed!!!!!! I have not been in over 40 yrs , but your description and photos make me want to go!! Thank you, phtofreak

Beautifully written Photofreak. A very well balanced feature with good narration - reads like a magazine article!

@theyyamdancer, @rebeccam, @vaibhav_arora

Thanks to all of you for encouraging words... this will motivate me to take another journey and write another report

Wonderful capture of both the creative worlds - essence & narative - of this ancient holy city. Brilliant Photofreak -

Recall exploring this awesome city's ghats & the narrow lanes as a young child, accompanied by my parents.
But after reading your post, feel like it is time to re-visit this city as a grown- up man with longing memories of my parents.

Agreeing with everyone above . . . great mix of words and images . . . thank you for taking me back to my favorite place in India

@Sabyasachi, @Darmabum

Thanks a ton to both of you....glad you people liked my work

Excellent write-up & photos.

Photo of the bhajan - mandali can not be seen.

Ronak.

Thnks for your nice words

Here is the Bhajam Mandali photo and some other pics as well

Very well written and the photos do justice to your username! Thank you for sharing.

Thanks for your feedback...I shall be posting more pics..so plz keep a tab on this thread

It was nice to read about this recent visit to Varanasi Photofreak, especially since my own visit there was cancelled due to a few problems...nevermind though, it just makes me want to see the city again even more, and next time, I'll spend extra days there