Varanasi Guide and Question About Ghats

California Lady

We will be in Varanasi this fall, and I have two questions:

1. Does anyone know of a fabulous government-approved, English-speaking guide for Varanasi? I read about two in Frommer's guidebook, but I am having trouble contacting them--the first one, Ajit Kumar Yadav is not responding to my e mail (sent to ajitashay@yahoo.com). The second one, Dhananjay (Deejay) Singh does not have an e mail listed.

If anyone knows how to contact these guides, or has another suggestion, I would appreciate it.

2. There seem to be many ghats. If we are going to be in Varanasi for three nights (with two full days in the middle, and two half days at the beginning and end), should we allow more than one day to see the ghats? We would like to see as many as possible, and not have to rush through.

Thank you in advance for your help.

nedhopkins

The best way to see the ghats is from the River Ganga (Ganges). You can hire a boat and rower just for yourself and your companion(s). Our hotel manager recommended we pay R200 -- about US$5 -- per hour; I would (and did) double that.

lyndy

We walk everywhere on the river, in Varanasi. The town is not all that interesting away from the Ganges & the ghats. Just use a map (available fromm book stores or your hotel) and walk.

You'll get lost probably, like we did but half the fun is discovering some hidden gems, like the man selling curd in the small laneways behind Alka Hotel & the guy selling mushy pea curry from a hole in the wall.

The boat trip is fairly impressive but with all the other boats & people trying to sell you stuff,from their boats, I enjoyed just walking around as much as my boat trip. Last year we paid 100 rupees to a boatman for one hour rowboat at 7.30am when the hordes had dispersed.

Darmabum

Can't help with the guide, but after spending over a year (two trips) in Varanasi, I am a fan.

I always got on my morning boat well before the sky was light. The big crowds/hassles on the river pick up as the morning wears on. The early mornings are magnificent.

With over 70 ghats in Varanasi, you'll be hard pressed to see them all, and there is no real need. Dasashawamedh is the main ghat, most peopled, and is very close to Manikarnika, the burning ghat (along with Harichandra Ghat, to the south)(though Harichandra is gas-fueled).

I live in the south end of the city, near Asi ghat, and the walk from there to town along the river is a nice one, almost the whole way is ghat. The river is what draws me to the city, waking up early enough each day to see the river banks come to life with bathers, prayers . . . as someone above mentioned, aside from the river, it is much like - at least visually - any other large Indian city. And to echo another poster - GREAT place to leave the map at home, wander through narrow lanes, get lost . . . look up "Benares: City of Light" by Diana Eck (Amazon sells it, and it can be bought in Varanasi, but it's best to study before you go). Classic book, everything you want to know about Varanasi.

Enjoy your stay.

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SitaParityaga

I agree, Dharmabum. I was in Varanasi for 10 days last fall. So many ghats, so little time!

Getting lost in the little alleys is great fun. Darn, missed lyndy's mushy pea curry guy.

Don't miss the little Bengali restaurant on Bengali Tola road, close to where it intersects with the road that leads down to the main ghat.

mstenson

We will be in Varanasi in a few days time we are being warned that it will be very hot and humid and also will not be able to take a boat trip due to volume of water in the river. Also warned that the Ghats will be covered by the river , anyone there please advise.

Thanks

wonderwomanusa

It's true that you might find the river up to the top of the ghats; I've been to Varanasi in October and had to walk on ghats covered with really thick mud after a good monsoon.

In fact, you will see high-water marks from historic flood years painted on a couple of buildings near Dasaswamadh Ghat.

And yes, I expect you will find it very hot and very steamy. And plenty of mossies, so be sure to have plenty of repellant!

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jolly72

I studied my engineering grads in varanasi (it boasts an IIT there!!) and fell in love with the city. the culture is awsome and people live the life at its best..
old priests taking bath in holy ganges as early as 4 am even in the chilling 4 degrees!! young wrestlers practicing in the muddy fileds!! localites enjoying discussing pitty matters, sipping cup of tea at road side stall and reading news paper..

There is a belief in some people that those die in this holy city reach directly the God!! it may be quite surprising and one might not believe this, but this belief gives a different feeling watching people waiting to die!! this surprised me a lot!!

about the guide, i wont mind coming along for 2-3 days, if you wish if that includes a weekend. let me know your plans.

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