Varanasi & Photography

lightworker · Mar 9th, 2009, 09:40

Hey all,

I lived in India for many years and are very familiar with everything.
The one thing is that I've never been in Varanasi.

I'm planning a trip there and have some questions regarding photography.

All right, here we go. I will be there with my wife, for about 5-7 days.
Photography is my life so the focus will be on photography.

1) Is there anything I should know before I head out there with my equipment?

2) Do you have to be worried for robbers regarding a camera etc. more then in other places in India?

3) Anybody has experience with photographing the burning ghats? Can you come up & close, is that asking for trouble?

And finally the last question 4) What are "must see" places in Varanasi?

Thanks in advance!

Vivek

hellogoodbye · Mar 9th, 2009, 09:50

I think out of respect it is requested that you not photograph the burning ghats. That would definitely be a case where I would ask for permission.

It's not in Varanasi, but I really enjoyed taking a half-day trip to Sarnath, a quiet and peaceful town with places of worship from different religions.

atala · Mar 11th, 2009, 03:22

The boat-folks tell one that one should not take fotos at the burning ghat. With a good enough zoom you could take photos from a boat covering the whole scene without much detail and without hurting anyone's sentiments, and when you are up-close at the ghat itself, if you are discrete about it, you could take a shot or two. I think you get the better shots from afar, as at the ghat itself a lot of people stand in your way.

About safety: If you sit in one of the narrow alleys and scan thru all the foto opportunities presenting themselves, i think you would not have much of a problem. Thieves hardly dare to enter bazars, as they would be easily caught there. Out in the open road it might be a different thing, but for instance at Dashashvamedh Ghat, one of the main attractions for tourists, there are so many tourists taking pictures that it hardly matters what you are doing. To be on the safe side, ask your wife to observe the scene around you once in a while, and be careful how you return to your hotel. Thieves would most likely use moments of inattention and carelessness to their advantage.

What I found easy and completely safe was to take pics in non-tourist places in town, in some side street where I was the only foreigner, like around some small mother-deity shrine. I have not stayed at an expensive Hotel though, so I do not know about that situation (the moving in and out of there, I mean). Staying with the common folks is certainly no problem at all. I would be a little more careful though after sunset, not with the common folks, but about attracting the wrong kind of people.

lightworker · Mar 11th, 2009, 03:26

Thanks Atala,

I highly appreciate it!

I seriously can't wait to get there! I'm psyched!

Paz

Darmabum · Mar 11th, 2009, 05:05

From a photographer/videographer - Just because we "can" do it, should we. Just a personal observance of mine (and many others I've talked with) - I wouldn't even consider taking photos at Manikarnika or Harichandra ghats. Personally just a place I won't go.

In living over a year in Varanasi, I have never felt at risk, at all, regarding theft. Some interesting photos may be found too in the silk weaving areas of town, the ones I know best are a km or two north of Asi Ghat, in the alleys off the road to Dasashawamedh. Very nice diffused light (with a tripod, very nice longer exposures can be had) . . . people at looms . . . but in all my time there, I can't seem to pull myself away from the river . . . every morning I would sit beneath my tree at Tulsi Ghat, from well before dawn to the moment the sun rose, and watch the city come to life at the river.

lightworker · Mar 11th, 2009, 05:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darmabum

From a photographer/videographer - Just because we "can" do it, should we. Just a personal observance of mine (and many others I've talked with) - I wouldn't even consider taking photos at Manikarnika or Harichandra ghats. Personally just a place I won't go.

In living over a year in Varanasi, I have never felt at risk, at all, regarding theft. Some interesting photos may be found too in the silk weaving areas of town, the ones I know best are a km or two north of Asi Ghat, in the alleys off the road to Dasashawamedh. Very nice diffused light (with a tripod, very nice longer exposures can be had) . . . people at looms . . . but in all my time there, I can't seem to pull myself away from the river . . . every morning I would sit beneath my tree at Tulsi Ghat, from well before dawn to the moment the sun rose, and watch the city come to life at the river.

Hi Darmabum, (like your name)

I will make a note of the places you recommend, thanks for that!
Respect for people and situations is the most important rule for me..
I will check out your tree!

paz

vireya · Mar 11th, 2009, 05:31

As well as not getting right into the middle of a funeral to take photos, it is pretty rude to take close-up photos of the people bathing in the river. I wouldn't want someone taking photos of me in the bathroom, then putting them on some internet site for people to look at.

Paresh · Mar 12th, 2009, 04:29

Taking photographs of the burning ghats is not allowed in general. There are two issues with that. One, sentiments of the people. Two, you are giving reasons to others to harm your equipment. If you are thinking that sitting in a boat with a zoom lens, you can try this, then talk to the boat owner about it first.

Varanasi is very used to photography and I think, it is safe from rest of the India, as far as photography equipment is considered. Each morning, you can see white people roaming on ghats carrying the most expensive SLR and lenses. I have spent many nights alone on the streets with my camera and tripod for long exposures.

My recommendation (lesser known), Visit Adi Keshav ghat at evening time. May be on a full moon night. The view of moon rise is just awesome. I have got some of the best pictures of my life at that place. People hardly go there. You have to take the path to Raj Ghat and then turn to the Vasanta College road.

Darmabum · Mar 12th, 2009, 07:17

And another thought . . . so many people shoot the sun rising, as in, shooting from the city side (west side) of the river; when you take you morning boat rides, have your boatman get you across the river before the sun rises, and shoot town. Unless you have a big lens, in the 200mm+ range, it may reveal very little. There is a little tea stall on the eastern shore (or has been every time I've gone since '89) across - more or less - from the main ghat. Of course if you're there during monsoon, the river covers it, but from late autumn through April/May, it's a good place to sit and watch the sun hit the city.

lightworker · Mar 12th, 2009, 08:23

WOW - Thanks guys, I really really appreciate all the suggestions!
It sounds like such a magical place!

I'm familiar with the monsoons in the south, for as I'm there most of the time.
When is the monsoon in Varanasi?

What would be the best time to go between May & August ??

THX again!

Darmabum · Mar 12th, 2009, 08:52

My last trip was Feb '06 through July of '06 . . . real rain didn't start until June, real heat and humidity began earlier, in May. At least through June, rain wasn't all day, mostly cloud buildup during the day, raining mostly early afternoon/evening. Some GREAT thunder and lightning storms. For a photographer, not to be missed. The 'best" time to go depends on what you want, I found subject matter for all those months; though my favorite time was during the lightning storms - some great video! Still the occasional good sunrise, got some awesome video of a full moon rise over the river, tattered clouds blowing slowly across the moon. Some people find the clouds an issue, a hindrance, I found them something to work with.

lightworker · Mar 13th, 2009, 08:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darmabum

My last trip was Feb '06 through July of '06 . . . real rain didn't start until June, real heat and humidity began earlier, in May. At least through June, rain wasn't all day, mostly cloud buildup during the day, raining mostly early afternoon/evening. Some GREAT thunder and lightning storms. For a photographer, not to be missed. The 'best" time to go depends on what you want, I found subject matter for all those months; though my favorite time was during the lightning storms - some great video! Still the occasional good sunrise, got some awesome video of a full moon rise over the river, tattered clouds blowing slowly across the moon. Some people find the clouds an issue, a hindrance, I found them something to work with.

Thanks Darmabum,

So how would the month of July be? And again as always, thanks for the great info!

Paz

SitaParityaga · Mar 13th, 2009, 09:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darmabum

There is a little tea stall on the eastern shore (or has been every time I've gone since '89) across - more or less - from the main ghat. Of course if you're there during monsoon, the river covers it, but from late autumn through April/May, it's a good place to sit and watch the sun hit the city.

I was there last November: and it's still there. While there, I asked about it but regrettably didn't take a boat over to check it out. Wish I had. Its more than a tea stall now, more like a dock with a few covered platforms around it.

Darmabum · Mar 13th, 2009, 19:07

Sita, thank you for the update. Spent many great misty-orange mornings there.

As for July, much like June (rain/weatherwise) just more of it. Humidity was the big issue for me. I started sweating in May, didn't stop til I got on the plane for home. I had no particular problems with humidity regarding my photography equipment. I kept my camera in my room (again, no AC, most of the time, no fan) in a small canvas bag, with no silicone bags. But things in my room did develop mold - packs, especially cotton; so do keep moving - it'll not only be the only breeze there may be, but you'll avoid molding

The river will be rising too. Shoreside structures will be going under. I remember being there in the fall one year, November?, and from my morning perch at Tulsi Ghat, I remember hearing the sound of a slow pick axe and shovel, for at least a month. Went to the sound one day and found a tall, grey haired and bearded Indian man digging . . . digging . . . for weeks. One day I heard his pick hit rock, seems he was a pujari or priest and had finally uncovered his temple from beneath many meters of mud and sand.
Amazing too to remember the coming of the rain in the evening. The street outside my room full of people and motorcylces, bicycles. Then the rain would come, full bore, for maybe half an hour or so. Everyone, all street stalls, sent running for cover and closed, the street now a river, four inches deep from side to side. Then the rain would pass; within ten minutes the streets would fill with people again, shops would open, the street, once a river, now a street again, horns honking.
It can be a challenging time, monsoon, but I'm glad I did it.

lightworker · Mar 13th, 2009, 22:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darmabum

Sita, thank you for the update. Spent many great misty-orange mornings there.

As for July, much like June (rain/weatherwise) just more of it. Humidity was the big issue for me. I started sweating in May, didn't stop til I got on the plane for home. I had no particular problems with humidity regarding my photography equipment. I kept my camera in my room (again, no AC, most of the time, no fan) in a small canvas bag, with no silicone bags. But things in my room did develop mold - packs, especially cotton; so do keep moving - it'll not only be the only breeze there may be, but you'll avoid molding

The river will be rising too. Shoreside structures will be going under. I remember being there in the fall one year, November?, and from my morning perch at Tulsi Ghat, I remember hearing the sound of a slow pick axe and shovel, for at least a month. Went to the sound one day and found a tall, grey haired and bearded Indian man digging . . . digging . . . for weeks. One day I heard his pick hit rock, seems he was a pujari or priest and had finally uncovered his temple from beneath many meters of mud and sand.
Amazing too to remember the coming of the rain in the evening. The street outside my room full of people and motorcylces, bicycles. Then the rain would come, full bore, for maybe half an hour or so. Everyone, all street stalls, sent running for cover and closed, the street now a river, four inches deep from side to side. Then the rain would pass; within ten minutes the streets would fill with people again, shops would open, the street, once a river, now a street again, horns honking.
It can be a challenging time, monsoon, but I'm glad I did it.

Thanks again for the info! I might consider going in May for as that would turn out better for me then later in 2009. I'm used to the monsoons in the south, they can get really crazy!!! Are you gonna be in Varanasi this year in May?

Great story about the pujari by the way.

Peace

Mar 9th, 2009, 09:40	#1
lightworker Happy Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Around the Globe Posts: 10	Varanasi & Photography Hey all, I lived in India for many years and are very familiar with everything. The one thing is that I've never been in Varanasi. I'm planning a trip there and have some questions regarding photography. All right, here we go. I will be there with my wife, for about 5-7 days. Photography is my life so the focus will be on photography. 1) Is there anything I should know before I head out there with my equipment? 2) Do you have to be worried for robbers regarding a camera etc. more then in other places in India? 3) Anybody has experience with photographing the burning ghats? Can you come up & close, is that asking for trouble? And finally the last question 4) What are "must see" places in Varanasi? Thanks in advance! Vivek

Mar 11th, 2009, 05:05	#5
Darmabum On the Road, wherever I am Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: in the mountains of Idaho . . . now the red-rock plateau of southern Utah Posts: 1,110	From a photographer/videographer - Just because we "can" do it, should we. Just a personal observance of mine (and many others I've talked with) - I wouldn't even consider taking photos at Manikarnika or Harichandra ghats. Personally just a place I won't go. In living over a year in Varanasi, I have never felt at risk, at all, regarding theft. Some interesting photos may be found too in the silk weaving areas of town, the ones I know best are a km or two north of Asi Ghat, in the alleys off the road to Dasashawamedh. Very nice diffused light (with a tripod, very nice longer exposures can be had) . . . people at looms . . . but in all my time there, I can't seem to pull myself away from the river . . . every morning I would sit beneath my tree at Tulsi Ghat, from well before dawn to the moment the sun rose, and watch the city come to life at the river. __________________ Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate; our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure - Marianne Williamson

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Mar 9th, 2009, 09:50	#2
hellogoodbye Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Canada Posts: 148	I think out of respect it is requested that you not photograph the burning ghats. That would definitely be a case where I would ask for permission. It's not in Varanasi, but I really enjoyed taking a half-day trip to Sarnath, a quiet and peaceful town with places of worship from different religions.

Mar 11th, 2009, 03:22	#3
atala 8 years in India Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Switzerland Posts: 978	The boat-folks tell one that one should not take fotos at the burning ghat. With a good enough zoom you could take photos from a boat covering the whole scene without much detail and without hurting anyone's sentiments, and when you are up-close at the ghat itself, if you are discrete about it, you could take a shot or two. I think you get the better shots from afar, as at the ghat itself a lot of people stand in your way. About safety: If you sit in one of the narrow alleys and scan thru all the foto opportunities presenting themselves, i think you would not have much of a problem. Thieves hardly dare to enter bazars, as they would be easily caught there. Out in the open road it might be a different thing, but for instance at Dashashvamedh Ghat, one of the main attractions for tourists, there are so many tourists taking pictures that it hardly matters what you are doing. To be on the safe side, ask your wife to observe the scene around you once in a while, and be careful how you return to your hotel. Thieves would most likely use moments of inattention and carelessness to their advantage. What I found easy and completely safe was to take pics in non-tourist places in town, in some side street where I was the only foreigner, like around some small mother-deity shrine. I have not stayed at an expensive Hotel though, so I do not know about that situation (the moving in and out of there, I mean). Staying with the common folks is certainly no problem at all. I would be a little more careful though after sunset, not with the common folks, but about attracting the wrong kind of people.

Mar 11th, 2009, 03:26	#4
lightworker Happy Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Around the Globe Posts: 10	Thanks Atala, I highly appreciate it! I seriously can't wait to get there! I'm psyched! Paz

Mar 11th, 2009, 05:31	#7
vireya Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 425	As well as not getting right into the middle of a funeral to take photos, it is pretty rude to take close-up photos of the people bathing in the river. I wouldn't want someone taking photos of me in the bathroom, then putting them on some internet site for people to look at.

Mar 12th, 2009, 04:29	#8
Paresh No no, I am not a Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: India Posts: 278	Taking photographs of the burning ghats is not allowed in general. There are two issues with that. One, sentiments of the people. Two, you are giving reasons to others to harm your equipment. If you are thinking that sitting in a boat with a zoom lens, you can try this, then talk to the boat owner about it first. Varanasi is very used to photography and I think, it is safe from rest of the India, as far as photography equipment is considered. Each morning, you can see white people roaming on ghats carrying the most expensive SLR and lenses. I have spent many nights alone on the streets with my camera and tripod for long exposures. My recommendation (lesser known), Visit Adi Keshav ghat at evening time. May be on a full moon night. The view of moon rise is just awesome. I have got some of the best pictures of my life at that place. People hardly go there. You have to take the path to Raj Ghat and then turn to the Vasanta College road.

Mar 12th, 2009, 07:17	#9
Darmabum On the Road, wherever I am Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: in the mountains of Idaho . . . now the red-rock plateau of southern Utah Posts: 1,110	And another thought . . . so many people shoot the sun rising, as in, shooting from the city side (west side) of the river; when you take you morning boat rides, have your boatman get you across the river before the sun rises, and shoot town. Unless you have a big lens, in the 200mm+ range, it may reveal very little. There is a little tea stall on the eastern shore (or has been every time I've gone since '89) across - more or less - from the main ghat. Of course if you're there during monsoon, the river covers it, but from late autumn through April/May, it's a good place to sit and watch the sun hit the city.

Mar 12th, 2009, 08:23	#10
lightworker Happy Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Around the Globe Posts: 10	WOW - Thanks guys, I really really appreciate all the suggestions! It sounds like such a magical place! I'm familiar with the monsoons in the south, for as I'm there most of the time. When is the monsoon in Varanasi? What would be the best time to go between May & August ?? THX again!

Mar 12th, 2009, 08:52	#11
Darmabum On the Road, wherever I am Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: in the mountains of Idaho . . . now the red-rock plateau of southern Utah Posts: 1,110	My last trip was Feb '06 through July of '06 . . . real rain didn't start until June, real heat and humidity began earlier, in May. At least through June, rain wasn't all day, mostly cloud buildup during the day, raining mostly early afternoon/evening. Some GREAT thunder and lightning storms. For a photographer, not to be missed. The 'best" time to go depends on what you want, I found subject matter for all those months; though my favorite time was during the lightning storms - some great video! Still the occasional good sunrise, got some awesome video of a full moon rise over the river, tattered clouds blowing slowly across the moon. Some people find the clouds an issue, a hindrance, I found them something to work with.

Mar 13th, 2009, 19:07	#14
Darmabum On the Road, wherever I am Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: in the mountains of Idaho . . . now the red-rock plateau of southern Utah Posts: 1,110	Sita, thank you for the update. Spent many great misty-orange mornings there. As for July, much like June (rain/weatherwise) just more of it. Humidity was the big issue for me. I started sweating in May, didn't stop til I got on the plane for home. I had no particular problems with humidity regarding my photography equipment. I kept my camera in my room (again, no AC, most of the time, no fan) in a small canvas bag, with no silicone bags. But things in my room did develop mold - packs, especially cotton; so do keep moving - it'll not only be the only breeze there may be, but you'll avoid molding The river will be rising too. Shoreside structures will be going under. I remember being there in the fall one year, November?, and from my morning perch at Tulsi Ghat, I remember hearing the sound of a slow pick axe and shovel, for at least a month. Went to the sound one day and found a tall, grey haired and bearded Indian man digging . . . digging . . . for weeks. One day I heard his pick hit rock, seems he was a pujari or priest and had finally uncovered his temple from beneath many meters of mud and sand. Amazing too to remember the coming of the rain in the evening. The street outside my room full of people and motorcylces, bicycles. Then the rain would come, full bore, for maybe half an hour or so. Everyone, all street stalls, sent running for cover and closed, the street now a river, four inches deep from side to side. Then the rain would pass; within ten minutes the streets would fill with people again, shops would open, the street, once a river, now a street again, horns honking. It can be a challenging time, monsoon, but I'm glad I did it.