Music in Varanasi

Wally Jenkins

I just wanted to turn you all onto an incredible experience I had in Varanasi, India. We wanted to hear some local music while we were visiting. Someone told us about a small music school down near the ghats (Laliata ghat) that also arranged concerts. Almost by accident, we found it. The Sangita Music School. It was basically the home of the proprietor. When we asked if there were any concerts planned he said "just tell me what instruments you would like to hear and I'll arrange to have them here this evening".

We went back that night, sat in his tiny living room with he and his children sipping tea, and listened to world class Indian musicians (e.g. the tabla player had been playing tabla since he was 2 years old; his father was the sitar teacher of Ravi Shankar) for several hours. All for so few rupees that you wouldn't believe me if I told you.

Of all the wonderful things we did while in India, this surprise turned out to be the highlight by far. If you enjoy music, I would certainly keep an eye out for this wonderful place.

goatfarmer

There are numerous offerings of Indian classical music in Varanasi. I found a concert on each of the three nights that I was there. The quality ranged from fairly good to dismal. The best was at the "International Music Centre". For 50 rupees there were two performers: a young whippersnapper playing sitar - didn't really take off - and a gentleman playing santoor, which was quite good. The tabla accompanist was masterly.

The other two places were little music schools with shop fronts near the pandey ghat. One gave a vocal performance which was good, the other, a sarod performance which at the other end of the spectrum.

The scene is worth investigating.