Morning boat ride at ghats in December...

Neil N · Aug 21st, 2009, 04:45

Hello, I'll be traveling to Varanasi around Dec 27th but I've been reading that the temperature in December can drop to 7C at night which means that it'll likely still be cool/cold in the morning. I was excited to do a morning boat ride to see the crowded ghats as they open the river which I have read so much about however, I'm worried that the ghats will be empty at that time of year due to the cold temperature and thus I will not get to experience the awe of the spectacle as if it were warmer.

Can anyone advise me if it's still worthwhile to do the morning boat ride in later December or should I plan my trip for later when it's warmer, such at feb or march?

Neil N

machadinha · Aug 21st, 2009, 07:34

It's certainly worth it I'd say. Misty mornings and all... hmm.

Bring a blanket or something similarly warm (and dress up in all you have). It gets pretty nippy yes (not to say downright cold).

I suppose the ghats would be less busy than they otherwise might be yes. I don't know, I have no comparison. I certainly liked it. A lot. Late Dec./early Jan. when I was there I'd say. I remember it took me some effort to find breakfast after one of those (very) early morning boat rides (new year's morning in fact!), much of the town still asleep I think.

n kumar · Aug 21st, 2009, 08:36

Hi,
I was their in dec last year with my mother who's 72 years and it was just chilly in the morning.

machadinha · Aug 21st, 2009, 09:23

Well, of course the weather will vary per year, too. It did go down to around 7C at night when I was there. That's colder than you might think if you're not dressed for it (not to mention on an open row-boat on the river, of course... Those winding alleys in the old city, which is fun to stay in, don't warm up very quickly in the daytime, btw. There's a lot of shade.)

It snowed there some years ago. Made the international headlines, so an uncommon occurrence. Caused the usual street dwellers to die of course.

I'm sure some other winters it will just be balmy (and then those street dwellers will still die, just because living on the streets gets one a little more exposed & is generally no fun).

But in terms of major activity along the ghats, I guess this will be more in full swing in more agreeable seasons yes. Then again, people will still certainly come to bathe and such -- again, for a daybreak boat ride, the issue might be more that there's not much activity yet at that time, period. Although India in general tends to rise quite early. This can happen fairly quickly, too; maybe a half hour later the place will be bustling.

(There's nothing to stop you from taking a boat ride during the day when there'll be more activity, btw. I guess the mornings are just preferred because many of us find this romantic. And in fact it is, really.)

Anyway, I wouldn't let it put me off a boat ride in late Dec.; maybe Neil has the opportunity to do it again a few months later on the same trip, just to compare? Would be the best of both worlds, of course. (I personally didn't mind the place to be not packed out, btw. It's fairly hectic as it is. It's really nice though -- but when I visited was at the end of a longer India trip, too, I might have thought of it very differently if it had been the start. As in what kind of madhouse did I end up in this time again.)

Darmabum · Aug 21st, 2009, 17:40

Having been in Varanasi during every month of the year I can assure you both: that in December there will be less people at the river, especially in the predawn hours, and, but, that there will always BE people.

I lived near Asi Ghat, and went to the river every day when the stars were still in the sky, stayed til just after sunrise; rain or shine, summer or winter, there were always people, it was always worth going.

I remember one cold winter morning when from my perch at Tulsi Ghat a figure emerged from the black of night . . . standing in the river to above his waist, he'd apparently gotten there well before I did . . . hands folded in front of his face . . . shivering . . . he remained there after I left.

Neil N · Aug 21st, 2009, 20:28

Thank you everyone for your advise and opinions. What I really wanted to see was the pilgrims bathing in the early morning while doing the boat ride. My understanding is that there's a ceremony or something which "opens" the river when they can start to bath - is this correct? What time does it start? Or do they start bathing whenever they want?

I would like to see more than a few people bathing which is my fear with the cold weather. If people are telling me to bring a blanket on the boat, I find it difficult to think that pilgrims will be actually bathing in the cold water en masse.

Does anyone have any photos for the early morning activities in late December that I can make a judgment from?

Thank you in advance.

Neil N

Darmabum · Aug 22nd, 2009, 01:12

Bathing in the Ganges is not the same thing as going to the beach for a swim, a whole other thing is working. You'll see people, though perhaps later in the morning/day (when it warms up) would be more gratifying for you. I don't quite know what you're expecting to see. While there sometimes are groups bathing "en masse", the majority seem to be individuals and families; but when taken as a whole - as in the whole length of the riverfront (say from Asi Ghat to Dasashawamedh) - these individuals and families can certainly amount to numbers in the thousands.

Neil N · Aug 22nd, 2009, 20:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darmabum

Bathing in the Ganges is not the same thing as going to the beach for a swim, a whole other thing is working. You'll see people, though perhaps later in the morning/day (when it warms up) would be more gratifying for you. I don't quite know what you're expecting to see. While there sometimes are groups bathing "en masse", the majority seem to be individuals and families; but when taken as a whole - as in the whole length of the riverfront (say from Asi Ghat to Dasashawamedh) - these individuals and families can certainly amount to numbers in the thousands.

Hi Darmabum, "numbers in the thousands" is what I was interested in seeing over the length of the ghats. I was worried of seeing only ten brave souls which wouldn't give me the experience that I think I'll see based on many photos that I've seen. Thank you for the reply, it's very much appreciated and I'll definitely be coming in December. I'm sure that I'll have a good time.

Neil N.

Darmabum · Aug 23rd, 2009, 00:48

Neil, remember too that many of the photos you might have seen may have been taken during especially auspicious days, the photos where people are stuffed like sardines all the way from the water up to the top of the ghat.

If you can, you might look up a book that I've had with me on every trip to Varanasi, "Benares: City of Light" by Diana Eck. Over three hundred pages on Varanasi. In it, she goes through the HIndu year, month by month, and chronicles all the auspicious days and events. Might look into it to see if anything is happening in December.

And as for the experience you imagine you might have . . . I gotta think that the experience you WILL have will supercede anything you might have imagined . . . India is a place for that . . . as is Varanasi.

Neil N · Aug 23rd, 2009, 00:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darmabum

Neil, remember too that many of the photos you might have seen may have been taken during especially auspicious days, the photos where people are stuffed like sardines all the way from the water up to the top of the ghat.

If you can, you might look up a book that I've had with me on every trip to Varanasi, "Benares: City of Light" by Diana Eck. Over three hundred pages on Varanasi. In it, she goes through the HIndu year, month by month, and chronicles all the auspicious days and events. Might look into it to see if anything is happening in December.

And as for the experience you imagine you might have . . . I gotta think that the experience you WILL have will supercede anything you might have imagined . . . India is a place for that . . . as is Varanasi.

Hi again Darmabum, I'll be in Varanasi for only 2 days: Tues 22 Dec and Wed 23 Dec. If you would be so kind as to have a quick glance into your book and let me know if those two days are auspicious? I'll have a look around here to see if I can get my hands on that book too, in the meantime.

I do agree with you that the experience that I will have will likely differ greatly from what I'm expecting to have, but I'm sure it'll be for the better! I'm looking forward to it.

Neil N.

Darmabum · Aug 24th, 2009, 16:43

Namaste Neil . . . I'm currently on an internal American Southwest adventure and don't have my book with me. One of the (many) things I love about Varanasi is from my predawn to sunrise perch at Tulsi Ghat I was reminded that each day is reason to celebrate. There may be days when thousands are present . . . days when only a handful are (and those, to me, can be some of the most profound). I have several photos of Varanasi in the photo section of this site. I also have some sunrise video of Varanasi (music by my bansuri teacher) for a book trailer, a book I started writing in Varanasi in 1999-2000, on youtube. Look up dharmabum5850 on that site. Safe Travels, Neil.

Aug 21st, 2009, 04:45	#1
Neil N Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: UK Posts: 4	Morning boat ride at ghats in December... Hello, I'll be traveling to Varanasi around Dec 27th but I've been reading that the temperature in December can drop to 7C at night which means that it'll likely still be cool/cold in the morning. I was excited to do a morning boat ride to see the crowded ghats as they open the river which I have read so much about however, I'm worried that the ghats will be empty at that time of year due to the cold temperature and thus I will not get to experience the awe of the spectacle as if it were warmer. Can anyone advise me if it's still worthwhile to do the morning boat ride in later December or should I plan my trip for later when it's warmer, such at feb or march? Neil N

Aug 21st, 2009, 07:34	#2
machadinha brother my cup is empty member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: yörp Posts: 14,373	It's certainly worth it I'd say. Misty mornings and all... hmm. Bring a blanket or something similarly warm (and dress up in all you have). It gets pretty nippy yes (not to say downright cold). I suppose the ghats would be less busy than they otherwise might be yes. I don't know, I have no comparison. I certainly liked it. A lot. Late Dec./early Jan. when I was there I'd say. I remember it took me some effort to find breakfast after one of those (very) early morning boat rides (new year's morning in fact!), much of the town still asleep I think. __________________ Reading tips, all picked up at IndiaMike : INDAX's A Comprehensive Guide To India / Dinoj Surendran's Desi Humor / ITHVC on Culture Shock & Travel Health / JetLag Travel Guides For the Undiscerning Traveller / India Travel Links

Aug 21st, 2009, 17:40	#5
Darmabum On the Road, wherever I am Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: in the mountains of Idaho . . . now the red-rock plateau of southern Utah Posts: 1,109	Having been in Varanasi during every month of the year I can assure you both: that in December there will be less people at the river, especially in the predawn hours, and, but, that there will always BE people. I lived near Asi Ghat, and went to the river every day when the stars were still in the sky, stayed til just after sunrise; rain or shine, summer or winter, there were always people, it was always worth going. I remember one cold winter morning when from my perch at Tulsi Ghat a figure emerged from the black of night . . . standing in the river to above his waist, he'd apparently gotten there well before I did . . . hands folded in front of his face . . . shivering . . . he remained there after I left. __________________ Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate; our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure - Marianne Williamson

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Aug 21st, 2009, 08:36	#3
n kumar Maha Guru Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: bangalore Posts: 975	Hi, I was their in dec last year with my mother who's 72 years and it was just chilly in the morning.

Aug 21st, 2009, 09:23	#4
machadinha brother my cup is empty member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: yörp Posts: 14,373	Well, of course the weather will vary per year, too. It did go down to around 7C at night when I was there. That's colder than you might think if you're not dressed for it (not to mention on an open row-boat on the river, of course... Those winding alleys in the old city, which is fun to stay in, don't warm up very quickly in the daytime, btw. There's a lot of shade.) It snowed there some years ago. Made the international headlines, so an uncommon occurrence. Caused the usual street dwellers to die of course. I'm sure some other winters it will just be balmy (and then those street dwellers will still die, just because living on the streets gets one a little more exposed & is generally no fun). But in terms of major activity along the ghats, I guess this will be more in full swing in more agreeable seasons yes. Then again, people will still certainly come to bathe and such -- again, for a daybreak boat ride, the issue might be more that there's not much activity yet at that time, period. Although India in general tends to rise quite early. This can happen fairly quickly, too; maybe a half hour later the place will be bustling. (There's nothing to stop you from taking a boat ride during the day when there'll be more activity, btw. I guess the mornings are just preferred because many of us find this romantic. And in fact it is, really.) Anyway, I wouldn't let it put me off a boat ride in late Dec.; maybe Neil has the opportunity to do it again a few months later on the same trip, just to compare? Would be the best of both worlds, of course. (I personally didn't mind the place to be not packed out, btw. It's fairly hectic as it is. It's really nice though -- but when I visited was at the end of a longer India trip, too, I might have thought of it very differently if it had been the start. As in what kind of madhouse did I end up in this time again.)

Aug 21st, 2009, 20:28	#6
Neil N Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: UK Posts: 4	Thank you everyone for your advise and opinions. What I really wanted to see was the pilgrims bathing in the early morning while doing the boat ride. My understanding is that there's a ceremony or something which "opens" the river when they can start to bath - is this correct? What time does it start? Or do they start bathing whenever they want? I would like to see more than a few people bathing which is my fear with the cold weather. If people are telling me to bring a blanket on the boat, I find it difficult to think that pilgrims will be actually bathing in the cold water en masse. Does anyone have any photos for the early morning activities in late December that I can make a judgment from? Thank you in advance. Neil N

Aug 22nd, 2009, 01:12	#7
Darmabum On the Road, wherever I am Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: in the mountains of Idaho . . . now the red-rock plateau of southern Utah Posts: 1,109	Bathing in the Ganges is not the same thing as going to the beach for a swim, a whole other thing is working. You'll see people, though perhaps later in the morning/day (when it warms up) would be more gratifying for you. I don't quite know what you're expecting to see. While there sometimes are groups bathing "en masse", the majority seem to be individuals and families; but when taken as a whole - as in the whole length of the riverfront (say from Asi Ghat to Dasashawamedh) - these individuals and families can certainly amount to numbers in the thousands.

Aug 23rd, 2009, 00:48	#9
Darmabum On the Road, wherever I am Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: in the mountains of Idaho . . . now the red-rock plateau of southern Utah Posts: 1,109	Neil, remember too that many of the photos you might have seen may have been taken during especially auspicious days, the photos where people are stuffed like sardines all the way from the water up to the top of the ghat. If you can, you might look up a book that I've had with me on every trip to Varanasi, "Benares: City of Light" by Diana Eck. Over three hundred pages on Varanasi. In it, she goes through the HIndu year, month by month, and chronicles all the auspicious days and events. Might look into it to see if anything is happening in December. And as for the experience you imagine you might have . . . I gotta think that the experience you WILL have will supercede anything you might have imagined . . . India is a place for that . . . as is Varanasi.

Aug 24th, 2009, 16:43	#11
Darmabum On the Road, wherever I am Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: in the mountains of Idaho . . . now the red-rock plateau of southern Utah Posts: 1,109	Namaste Neil . . . I'm currently on an internal American Southwest adventure and don't have my book with me. One of the (many) things I love about Varanasi is from my predawn to sunrise perch at Tulsi Ghat I was reminded that each day is reason to celebrate. There may be days when thousands are present . . . days when only a handful are (and those, to me, can be some of the most profound). I have several photos of Varanasi in the photo section of this site. I also have some sunrise video of Varanasi (music by my bansuri teacher) for a book trailer, a book I started writing in Varanasi in 1999-2000, on youtube. Look up dharmabum5850 on that site. Safe Travels, Neil.