Varanasi - Benares, Kashi, the City of Lights

assi ghat?


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Old Jan 28th, 2009, 21:22   #1
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assi ghat?

hi!
do you know anything about assi ghat, any nice places/dhabas, cafes/restaurants/gesthouses, to hang around....? i'm in the gondowlia area, on the ghats, i would like to explore and get to know assi area... thanks for any info!
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Old Jan 28th, 2009, 23:35   #2
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Asi is the area I live in when I travel to Varanasi. Have watched the sunrise from beneath a pipal tree at Tulsi Ghat over 300 times. Great area. Much more chill than where you are, it has kind of a neighborhood feel.

Good people watching place right on Asi Ghat - the Vaatika Cafe . . . good afternoon/evening place. Really good spinach and cheese ravioli, if you need a break from Indian food. Wood-fired pizzas too.

Though it's lost the considerable charm of it's former self, the new Haifa Restaurant and Hotel has a fair Indian thali and a really good middle eastern thali. A little to touristy for the eyes, but I just eat my thali with my eyes closed.

GREAT place to stay across the street from the Haifa, the Tiwari Lodge. I stayed there for six months in 2006 - stop in and say Namaste to Raju and his wife Rama for me, tell him Scottji sends his love. I stayed in the big double room by the carport. Very helpful folks there, and some great long-term guests - mostly musicians/Sanskrit/Hindi students . . . some good improv concerts on the roof during the season.

Most of the good Indian food I've found in the area are in places with no names. One in particular, up the road from the Asi crossing, past the post office, little place on the right, red plastic chairs outside as I remember. Amazing thali.

Fair place to hang on roof, if you're into that, at the Hotel Temple on Ganges, down a small lane on the way to Asi Ghat, a quick right just before the road to Asi swings to the left around the plush hotel on your left. They do some morning yoga up there. I found it a little cold in other than "the season".

Look for any cultural events happening at the Ganges View Hotel. They usually have bi-weekly events - music/painting/singing during the season.

Look up the Music Melody House, just ask around the area for directions (about five minute walk from Asi Ghat). usually have at least one musical concert per week. If you're into bansuri, ask about a concert with Sohan Lal - my guru.

That'll keep you busy for a while . . . Enjoy Asi!
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Old Jan 29th, 2009, 01:26   #3
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There's also a great bookshop right on Assi Ghat next to the hotel Palace on the Ganges. Apart from fantastic books and a knowledgeable owner they also advertise music concerts. So it's a good place to go to find out where to go next.

I agree about the Haifa restaurant. Very good food. Also the food at the Divya restaurant is excellent.
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Old Jan 29th, 2009, 20:23   #4
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Yes! The Harmony Bookstore! I fictionalized the owner's name in my recently completed book; in it, I called him Rajiv . . . maybe it's really Rakesh. GREAT bookstore, for India or anywhere really. Look for a tall, old-ish gray-haired lungi-wearing Canadian man. A Character. Has been in Varanasi for just slightly less time than Shiva. Take him out to lunch at the Vaatika, just down the ghat, he's got some stories . . .
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Old Feb 4th, 2009, 00:20   #5
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Ashish cafe is just up from Assi Ghat, ask around and someone will point you there...the best home-style thali for 30 rupees I've ever had, and also the best chai...lots of fresh ginger.

If you need a break from India without leaving it, head to Open Hand cafe, on a side street...again, just ask around. It's a cafe and a fair-trade craft shop, where you can get european coffee, panini, etc...and there's free wireless.

Enjoy Assi! It's a beautiful area!
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