Uttarkashi - places to stay and hikes to do

Hi livinhimalayas,
I had been to char dham in 2005 oct and 2006 oct for almost 15 days, and this place is only next to heaven. How lucky you are buddy,
with regards,

Hi,
Uttarkashi is a beautiful place and it is as close to heaven as you can get. But it is not an easy place to live. For most people it is too remote lacks a lot of the amenities that most city folks are used to. Transport is a big problem unless you have your own vehicle. The remoteness is what most people find very hard to digest. But for people who are serious about their spiritual practices, there is no place more conducive as you are not disturbed by outside influences (there are so few of those). Except for the two months of yatra season the place is really quiet and sleepy. This is practically the en of the season. Not too many people around except for the trekkers. Best time to be in Uttarkashi is now.
This is not a place for people looking to eat out, or to go on shopping binges. there is no where to eat out, nothing special to buy except sweaters, and socks and ofcourse caps and gloves .. and not too many people are interested in those. So to sum it up it is a place for the meditators and the mendicants.

Yes guruji,
Living in heaven might not be easy one but we guys in bangalore are living in HELL and just imagine how difficult it would be live in HELL and if you say heaven is not easy.

Bangalore is a nice happening, upcoming city in its new avtaar, if it is crowded, dusty and smoggy, that is the price you have to pay for being progressive. Agreed that living in any city is hellish but I was a city slicker too till I managed to extricate myself from the bad karmas that had landed me into the hell. I concede I am happier here than I have ever been in a city as I was never much of a lover of the delights a city has to offer. You can leave the hell too for the more rustic delight of a mountain top home.

you are right buddy
I will one day make it to heaven,
with regards

That'd be nice. On the way up as well as on the way down, we'll be reaching Uttarkashi late in the evening and leaving early the next morning. I'll let you know presently about our timings.

Balanced words, those. What with all this "sunrise, sunset, swiftly fly the years" stuff, I often wonder about medical facilities in the towns of Garhwal. E.g., what's the hospital situation in Uttarkashi like? Any information on such questions from an insider like you would be most welcome.

Raghu.

Uttarkashi had a district hospital with qualified doctors to handle most common ailments and emergencies. There are a couple of private practitioners and visiting doctors who hold camps under the aegis of the various ashrams. For specialised treatment you have to go to Dehradun as the hospital doesn;t have many mordern diagnostic facilities.
We are not in the wilderness, everything is available here but it takes time for stuff to be delivered as almost everyting has to be brought up from rishikesh or Dehradun.

Thanks, livinhimalayas, for the information.

Raghu.

Hello guys, I am going to Uttarkashi to do the BMC at NIM. After the course I have about 5 days to get back to Delhi. So I thought maybe I could fit in Dharamshala or just spend some more time in Uttarkashi exploring on foot. I am on an extremely tight budget though (in the area of Rs.1000 a day including accomodation). I don't care about the facilities so much (even a shack will do). All I need is to be able to leave my luggage there without having to worry about it, and somewhere that I could eat. So basically something very basic. Am I just dreaming about a place such as this or is someone going to save me from sleeping on the train station? :P

Hi Elysian,
Your budget of 1000/- bucks all inclusive is rather extravagant for Uttarkashi. If you just want a place to crash and put your gear and get two simple meals and tea morning evening, try the various ashrams in town. Some charge a set amount others do not specify any amount and accept repayment of hospitality in cash ( as much or as little as you please) or kind, do a good deed in return is all they ask ... totally voluntary. If you have some skills and are willing to teach them to the devotees of the ashram, or add to the morning and evening prayer sessions by singing a few bhajans or hymns (language or religion not withstanding) they will be happy wnough to put you up. Most of the ashrams are pretty clean and tidy and by the river side. Some have a strict rule about attending the morning and evening payer sessions, the others let you do yourr own thing. I would recommend two which I feel offer the most freedom of stay and are both situated in quiet serene surroundings and close to some interesting walks as they are both outside the city. These are: Tapovani Mata Ashram in Gangori. This has been established by Subhadra Mata ji who shifts here in the wonter months and during summer stays in Dharali. Right now she is abroad and there is a very nice and well educated swami ji incharge. The rooms are clean and on the second floor face the river with a broad verandah in front where you can sit and watch the river. One of the best places for a solitary existance. It is not busy and there are few people who come over to stay there.
The other I would recommend is Shivananda Ashram, Ganeshpur. Don't mistake it for Shivananda Kutir at Netala that runs Yoga teacher's training course, they are two different entities. Shivananda Kutir is expensive so give it a wide berth. Shivananda Ashram is headed by Swami Premananda ji. A wonderful person, excellent host and a very learned man. Here yo uare free to do what you want but they do expect you to attend at least one prayer meeting a day. No money is asked for it is up to you what you want to contribute. If you want to volunteer for a service to the ashram ... even if it is just looking after the garden, you are welcome. We suggest you make a small monetory contribution to the ashram at the end of your stay as a token of thanks to swami ji. This ashram is also next to the river and in very serene surroundings. There are often several devotees staying there at any given time but they have plenty of space to accommodate all.
If yo ureally want to stay in the town, then GMVN rates are very reasonable try that. You could even try Monal Guest House in Kot bangala. Deependar Panwar runs it and if you are lucky he may give you an off season discount ( not that his tariff is very high) His is the cleanest place around and food is good there. Deependar is also a mountaineering and hiking guide so he could give you plenty of advice on where to go and what to do given your budget. Monal phone number is 01374-222270 and Deependar's mobile is 9412984183. Best of luck for your stay in Uttarkashi.

livinginhimalayas
beautiful post.
pl do go to uttara.in , check char dham and towns and let me know if anything needs to be added.
regds
amarendra

Hi livinhimalayas,
I was at Uttarkashi on 5th Oct and went to Gangotri on 6th morning and returned to Uttarkashi same day evening. Left for Rudraprayag next day morning.

As I read your posts I feel lucky that I got good weather and roads were open. Took lot of photos & I will be posting them shortly. We started early for Gangotri so on very low light condition took some photos of that hanging bridge joining two sides of the river.

Evening after dinner at the bus stand I was asking one Nepali boy about trekking in near by areas. He gave me a big list.

My wife was impressed by fresh vegetables available at your place.

I am still dreaming of spending some time in a Ashram by the side of a river in Himalayas. May be next year ...

If you aren't very particular about staying in Uttarkashi itself, you may be interested in Agoda, a small village 5 km on the trail up from Sangam Chatti, on the way to Dodital. There's a small hotel called Bharat Tourist Lodge there with a few rooms, and a beautiful view. When I went to Dodital in June 2006, there were a couple of tourists staying there. It was quiet and restful, and seemed an ideal place for a retreat. There's a photograph of the place taken when I went there. One can drive up to Sangam Chatti, and then walk the 5 km to Agoda.

Another similar place is Raithal, on the way to Dayara Bugiyal from Uttarkashi. One can drive up to Raithal from Uttarkashi. There is a GMVN at Raithal, which should suffice for the basic needs you mention. The place is again peaceful, and has great views.

Raghu.

you were indeed lucky to have a spell of good weather. Just a week before you were here, a friend had a group she had taken trekking to sahastra tal. They were caught in a severe rain storm. (this is the same storm in which the kalindi khal tragedy also happened) They lost all their tents (shredded to bits by the winds) except one and had to cut short their trek and return to uttarkashi. It rained during their return journey and it is a wonder none of them were seriously injured.
You came at a time when local veggies are available. We are no so fortunate in the winter but there is always enough to buy as most of the fruits and veggies come in from Dehradun and Rishikesh. Good to know that the Uttarkashi bug has got to you. Hope you come here again soon.
I will put in a post about treks in the area that a friend conducts. These are day treks and a couple of overnight stays. all info will be available on the post so wait for it to appear

Day Treks from Uttarkashi:* 1.*Oak Trail – Uttarkashi – Chaurangi Khal – Nachiketa Tal – Uttarkashi.This trek is to Nachiketa Tal one of the most popular and easy treks around Uttarkashi. Situated at a height of about 2000 m, the lake is steeped in mythology. It is believed that Nachiketa meditated on the banks of this lake. The lake is situated amidst dense Oak and rhododendron forest that supports several species of birds. The road head is at Chaurangi khal which is about 30 kms from Uttarkashi. The road to Chaurangi Khal itself is a spectacular drive with a great snow view point at Sankurna Dhar about 18 kms from Uttarkashi from where the Bandarpunch massif can be viewed in all its spectacular beauty. The trek is an easy gradient and about 3 kms one way. Even inexperienced and unconditioned people can easily take this trek. 2.*Temple Heights -* Uttarkashi – Sankurnadhar – Nagni Devi – UttarkashiSnakurnadhar is situated at a distance of about 18 kms from Uttarkashi. This is an area that is known to locals as the Bailkhila Parvat. The name again has mythological connotations. It is believed that a great sage Balkhil meditated in this area. The trek leads to the temple of Nagni Devi that is dedicated to Shiva’s consort Goddess Parvati. A steep but well worn path leads up to the temple from the road head. The view of the Bandarpunch massif enroute the temple is breathtaking. The path leads through thick oak forests that contain a wide variety of flora and fauna, a delight for any nature lover. The trek is 6 kms long one way the entire trek is 12 kms long. The trail is a steep one and you have to be in a good physical condition to do this trek. 3.*Cascade Route – Uttarkashi – Barsu – Waterfall – UttarkashiThis trek takes you to a beautiful waterfall where you can swim or relax on the rocks surrounding the plunge pool of the cascade. The road head is at Barsu which is 43 kms from Uttarkashi. Barsu has a nice camp where lunch for the hike is organized. The trek to the waterfall from the Barsu Camp is 1.5 kms. The gradient is easy and anyone can do the trek. 4.*Mountain Adventure – Uttarkashi – Mandan Bhitti base camp – Summit – Uttarkashi Mandan Bhitti is a 3000 meter high mountain. If you want to combine the thrill of climbing a mountain with a trek this is the trek for you.* It is an overnight trek that involves a bit of climbing. This trek is for people who are experienced trekkers with a little exposure to climbing. The road head is about 8 kms drive from Monal along the Asi Ganga valley. The trek from the road head to the base camp is 6 kms. This is a steep trek and you have to be in top physical condition to do it.* The tents for the night are pitched at the Base camp. There are no back up or porters involved for this trek. All equipment and supplies have to be carried by the trekkers. There is some non technical climb involved in the trek up to the top of the mountain from the base camp.** 5.*Village Circuit – Uttarkashi – Sangam Chatti – Naugaon- Bhankoli – Sangam Chatti – UttarkashiWant to get acquainted* with the local people and glimpse into lives of the mountain people and their village? If your answer is yes then village circuit is the trek for you to do.* This is a special trek to promote village tourism. It includes lunch at a local village where you can feast on the local delicacies cooked in front of you. You get to meet local villagers and interact with them. For those interested in architecture, there are beautiful wood and stone houses to look at. There is a long tradition of wood carving in this region, this is evident in the houses of the area where you can see richly carved pillars and doors adorning the houses. The trek begins from Sangam Chatti which is the road head for the Dodi Tal trek and situated at a distance of about 13 kms from Monal. The drive passes through the breathtakingly beautiful valley of Asi Ganga river. You trek first to the village of Naugaon where you will have time to explore the village and meet the locals. You can look at the houses and admire the wooden carving. Then trek on to Bhankoli Village and from there back to Sangam Chatti to drive back to Monal. The whole circuit is about 12 kms long. The trail for the trek passes through pristine forests and along tinkling streams where it seems nature turns on her full charms to entice you. The view of the surrounding area from Naugaon is spectacular. This is an easy trek along a well establish path and novice trekkers can also enjoy it. 6.*Aina Devi Circuit – Uttarkashi – Nald – Aina – Ganeshpur – UttarkashiTemple of Aina Devi is situated in a meadow where you can commune with nature dip your feet into the stream that flows through. There is a temple dedicated to a local deity called Aina Devi. A hermit’s cottage is attached to the temple. During summer, shepherds tend to their flock in the meadow. The music of the wind is sometimes enhanced by the flute of the shepherds to provide you with instant entertainment. The trek leads up the Village of Naald that is situated high on the mountain side above confluence of Asi Ganga and Bhagirathi rivers. The path leads through pine forests. From Naald you trek up to Aina Devi and then return back to the Gangotri highway via the lush green Ganesh Ganga valley. Most of the trek is along the Ganesh Ganga stream, which passes through thick forests that are replete with flora and fauna and is a delight for any nature lover.* The trek is an easy one, greater portion of it is down hill. The trek ends at the charming village of Ganeshpur. 7.*Shikhareshwar Trek – Monal – Bagyal – Pata – Sangrali – Shikhareshwar – MonalShikhareshwar is a temple of Lord Shiva situated at the top of Varunavat, the mountain at the base of which Uttarkashi sits. The temple is surrounded by thick deodar and pine forests and abounds with wild life. The trek starts from Monal tourist Home which sits a little way up the Varunavat. Trekking upwards through a well travelled path you pass through Bagyal village and climb up to Pata village. From Pata, you follow the trail up to Sangrali Village. The village houses the temple of Kandhaar Devata, the main deity of Uttarkashi Valley. You get a panaromic view of the Bhagirathi Valley and the Bandar Punch massif from the temple. Sangrali village itself is a very interesting village. It mostly consists of old stone and wood houses with slate roofs. It is a very beautiful village and a photographer’s delight. From Sangrali it is a short trek up to Shikhareshwar. From Shikhareshwar the trek leads back down to Monal for tea. The total trek is about 10 kms long. Most of the trek is through thick forest. 8.*Half Varuni – Uttarkashi – Saald – Vimaleshwar – Shikhareshwar – Sangrali – Pata – Bagyal- MonalEvery year in the month of March - April,* a religious yatra takes place in Uttarkashi. This is called the Varuni and entails a circumambulation of Varunavat mountain. Enroute are several temples that people pay obeisance at. Varuni starts with a small pooja on the banks of Bhagirathi from Varuna Gad at Badethi on the outskirts of Uttarkashi and ends at Triveni ghat on the confluence of Asi-Ganga and Bhagirathi at Gangori. The entire Varuni is 32 kms long. The Half Varuni trek retraces the path of the Varuni but not completely. It starts at the village of Saald which is the road head for this trek. Saald has an ancient Narayan Temple that dates back to 12th century AD. It is a beautiful temple built in typical mountain architecture. You can visit this temple if you want. From Saald you trek through thick pine and deodar forests to the temple of Vimaleshwar, the presiding deity of the temple is Lord Shiva. From Vimaleshwar you climb up to the top of Varunavat and reach the temple of Shikhareshwar, another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Then it is a down hill trek to Village of Sangrali and the temple of Kandhaar devata the main deity of Uttarkashi Valley. Then trek down past Pata and Bagyal villages to Monal. The total distance covered by the trek is about 12 kms. It is not a very strenuous trek and can be taken by everyone.* 9.*Angling -* Monal – Kuflon – MonalThose who want to enjoy the outdoors in a more passive way and have time to contemplate and meditate, the perfect way to do it is to go angling in Asi Ganga. The river abounds in trouts. You find two main types of trouts here, the more common brown trout and the rarer rainbow trout.* You cannot just go off fishing in the river, a permit has to be taken from the Forest Department, which will be made available to you before you set out. The permit is only on catch and release basis. You cannot bag your fish and take it home to cook. This trip includes a drive to the angling field after breakfast at Monal. A normal fishing beat lasts about 2 – 3 hours depending upon the patience and enthusiasm of the angler. One has to be prepared to walk along the stream bank in search of richer fishing grounds. The terrain is pretty rough and expect to walk over boulders along the bank of the river or even wade through pools to get the best catch. After angling return to Kuflon Basics for lunch and then drive back to Monal in time for tea. 10.*Mountain Biking – This is a new activity that is being introduced in Uttarkashi for the first time. It will be available from 2009. You can hire bicycles and start exploring the area on your own or you can choose to take the packages we offer. Right now we have 2 local routes. One is a gentle ride along the Asi Ganga valley for the novices and the other is to the top of Varunavat Mountain which is for the more experienced bikers. a.*River Ride – Monal – Kuflon - MonalThe route follows the course of Asi Ganga river up towards Kuflon which is approximately 8 kms. From Monal. The ride is a gentle uphill ride. Once at kuflon, you take a short trek up to Kuflon Basics. You can explore around the area and take a short walk up to a pool for a cooling and invigorating swim. Ride back to Monal in time for tea.* b.*Mountain Top Ride – Monal – Pata Bend – Mahidanda - MonalTake a ride up the Varunavat to the village of Sangrali. Enjoy the expansive view over the mountains from Pata Bend. Then take a short ride up to Mahidanda which offers a spectacular view of Bandar Punch Massif or trek up through fields and forest to the temple of Kandhaar Devata, the principal deity of Uttarkashi. The temple is built on a cliff that offers a spectacular view of Bhagirathi Valley and the Bandar Punch massif.