Pindari updates

Hi IMers,
Just back from Pindari. A lot has already been discussed about this route. For the benefit of those who want to go this year postmonsoon, here are a few tips:

1. Kharkia is the roadhead if one wants to bypass Dhakuri. From Kharkia it is about 5 Km to Khati (about 3 Km downhill, and 2 Km mild uphill).
2. The last cab from Bageswar to Kharkia is at 12 - 12.30 pm, and it takes around 5 hrs. So one can go upto Jaikhuni (2 Km) or Dau (3Km) or Khati before sunset the same day. Cabfare: Rs. 3500 to 4000. It's better to stay at Khati while going and at Jaikhuni while coming back. There's this quaint little cottage of stone walls called "Hotel Anpona"(sic)of Anand Singh at an awesome location at Jaikhuni. It commands a view of both the Sundardunga Valley in the left and Pindari Valley in the right. While coming back, an early morning walk of 1 hour will ensure one reaches Kharkia by 8 Am to catch the first cab out to Bageswar.

3. Most of the PWD resthouses are in a miserable state, the worst being the one at Dwali (only one out of the 2 toilets are in working condition). KMVN ones are a little better. Food is definitely more expensive in KMVN than in PWD. We used to eat at PWD and sleep at KMVN

4. A Zilla Parishad resthouse located about 7 Km uphill from Dwali has made the trek to Kafni Glacier easier as one can break the 24 Km long route into 2 paraos.

Bye, and Best of luck.

Great report thanks Soumenm. What were the opportunities for staying up at Zero Point? When I was there last one of the locals had people staying in one of the shepherd huts near the temple and was cooking food and chai.

Thanks Leem.
You can stay with Swami Dharmanand at Pindar Baba Ashram if you are alone, but definitely not if you have a large group with you. The shepherd huts can be used for benightment provided you have a good plastic sheet (just in case it rains or gets pretty windy).

Just to add, while returning you also have option of taking the Khati-Supi route to escape the Kharkiya-Loharkhet jeep ride. Its a beautiful walk!

Thanks again you guys. What will be the condition of this road late Sept, will it be open? When I went before the jeeps were not going to Loharkhet that time of year. Will the track be a boggy mess like Australian ones after heavy rain?
I am asking because Soumenm reports that the ride from Bageshwar to Kharkia is 5 hours. My notes from my previous trip say 1.5 hours from Bageshwar to Song, so is it a further 3.5 hours Song to Kharkia?
Thank you for your recommendation about the Supi route Araib. Supi is on my map and it looks like you go over Khati Khal rather than Dakhuri Khal to get there? If so what is the Khati Khal route like in terms of difficulty and obviousness of the route?

I had used the route last year (2011) the roads were bad and post rains last year they were shut, i guess the road department must have worked on them for it to resume. For this year (2012) post rains the chances would be 50/50 i suggest you inquire at Bageshwar with a few people. We did have a close shave last year while returning from our trek to Sundardunga, from my understanding we were the last group to use the road last year before the rains.

The Loharkhet-Kharkiya road is pretty bad, not broken just plain rugged, rendering vehicles to go super slow and hence the time taken.As its not metaled, post rains it might be in worse condition.
The Khati-Supi route is around 8 kms, 4 up 4 down.The trail is cemented path upto the top and not difficult to locate even on downhill. Dont remember the name of the pass but its near Pangu top. If you are to take jeep from Supi you need to inform the driver in advance, just take the no and you can call from Khati itself.

Thanks guys, sounds like one might as well head for Loharkhet that time of year and walk from there. I really liked getting the view from Dakhuri in the morning anyway. Might try coming out via Khati Khal and Supi though although Pangu Top is not marked on my Leomann map.

Am planning to visit pindari(first time trek) from oct 20.will it be a good time. also can i get a share taxi from bageshwar to loharikhet/song?

Yes, one can get a share taxi from Bageshwar to Loharkhet or Song. If not, you will get a share taxi upto Bharari and another from Bharari to Loharkhet.

I missed my train and have to postpone my trek to pindari and kafni. KMVN is offering a trip to pindari and kafni is eight days. Is it good . has anybody availed their services in the recent times?

I have booked the pindari/ kafni trek through KMVN starting 06 oct 12. any body registered ?

Hi Soumenm and himalayaneagle,

Could you let us know the current view from "zero point" at Pindari? Is the glacier tongue visible? I have heard that it's receded so much that nowadays none can see the Pindari glacier tongue from Zero point. Is this true? What about Kafni? Same condition?

I saw it easily just 4 weeks ago. Others in the group also visited the Kaphni Glacier

Thank you leem. Doubt clarified :-)