Is Ooty really worth a visit?

I often get asked this question and so thought it might be interesting to start a thread on this here! Apologies in advance if similar things have already been said and discussed as answers in other threads. I was just hoping to build up a bit of a “no-nonsense” guide to Ooty on here, which will hopefully help people who are making up their minds on whether they should go up to Ooty and the Nilgiris district or not!

I must first admit I was born and lived in the Nilgiris for 18 years, but frankly I do actually think Ooty is completely overrated these days! It is certainly worth a visit, but this should be well planned, to help you get the most out of your visit! If you just turn up and do the classic tourist stuff on offer, most people I know will go back feeling a bit let down by their experience, and some even disappointed! I also admit this reaction might be more typical for Western tourists, who are likely to be in India looking for “cultural” India, and not necessarily “scenic” India. The mountain scenery in the Nilgiris is spectacular to say the least, but it can be argued that the mountain scenery in the Himalayas is even more spectacular (though very different), and besides for visitors from Europe, North America and Australasia, they are not exactly in short supply of stunning mountain scenery in their home countries either!!

Since independence and especially during the last 30 odd years, Ooty has turned from being a very sleepy hill town which was famous for its summer retreat status and posh boarding schools, into a commercialized tourist factory, mainly catering to package tourists! These arrive by the bus load and you usually spot them wandering around town with towels over their shoulders as they are all so very cold after coming up from the plains! The other classic group are the honeymooners who you usually see travelling around tightly glued to each other in one corner of the back seat of a taxi! Regardless of who turns up, invariably they all get processed in the factory and are set off on pretty much a set itinerary over a couple of days. Usually this entails seeing sites around Ooty on the first day which includes a trip up to Dodabetta peak (an OK view point, more famous for being the highest peak), a visit to the crowded Botanical garden and Rose garden, and some boating on the polluted lake or pony riding around the lake! The second day usually takes in some of the sites around Coonoor which includes Sim’s Park, and the two main viewpoints of the plains which are Lambs Rock and Dolphins Nose. Both of these are nice and offer much more impressive views than that from Dodabetta. Over the last few years, the tours have also been extended in the opposite direction with boating on Pykara lake as a new option as well as the seriously exciting “sites” en-route to there which include a Pine Forest (wow), a rounded hill top (double wow), and not a particularly impressive cascade of waterfalls. The first two are known for their movie appearances!

As a result of all the rampant commercialization, Ooty town has become over-crowded, dirty and can at times be quite miserable…especially when it rains or drizzles which it seems to do quite often in true English fashion! A lot of the houses also tend to be damp and freezing cold! Many hotels and restaurants offer poor value for money, especially in the high season which peaks around the Flower Show (now known as Summer festival) which is around mid-may! Worse still, the town suffers from water-shortages, and its no secret that most of the towns sewage ends up in the same lake that the tourists go boating on! (Though admittedly this is supposed to be treated these days).

It’s been a while since I read a guide book on Ooty, but I’m sure that many describe Ooty in a similar fashion! I remember, even a while ago some considered the train journey there as the star attraction! The problem is that unlike many other places in India, Ooty has little by way of a religious or historical attraction (like a famous temple, palace etc.), neither does it seem to have a real cosmopolitan buzz! It basically relies on its past reputation; its cool weather, clean air and mountain scenery!

However, I’m only saying all of this as a word of caution for western tourists who turn up in Ooty for a couple of days with an intention to “do Ooty”! I’m certainly not implying give up on this place altogether! There really is a lot to see and do in the Nilgiris in general, and many of the smaller towns and villages have retained most of their original charm! Even the stops on the classic tourist circuit are still worth seeing, but my advice is don’t leave it just at that! There are some places which are further off the regular circuit. Some are almost unknown and others are still well known, but are a bit out of the way. One of the latter is Kodanad View point (beyond Kotagiri) and is well worth the detour! Even in town, both Ooty and Coonoor have fantastic markets (colourful and photogenic) and Ooty has some interesting traditional silver shops that sell you really amazing locally made silver jewellery (mostly made by silversmiths from one of the original tribes of the Nilgiris… famously by the Todas).

Also, for many visitors, Ooty (and the Nilgiris) is still simply what it has always been: A good reprise from the stifling summer heat in the plains, or a fix if you are in need of some greenery! Away from the main tourist traps, there are amazing walks and longer treks that can be done. Coonoor and Kotagiri (but not Ooty) also have extensive tea plantations, which really differentiate the mountain scenery here to other mountainous places. The quality of the tea is good (especially the Orange Pekoe varieties), and many agree that the tea-gardens themselves are better maintained and look nicer than those in other parts of the world. There are literally hundreds of miles of walking paths which go through these plantations, almost all of which are open for all to use! You will discover interesting villages with colourful temples and very friendly people! A visit to a tea factory is also highly interesting, as well as taking some of the better quality teas back as a souvenir or gift! However, I’d really stay clear of the flavoured teas (like chocolate or masala tea), or even the more popular CTC (crush-tear-curl process) or dust teas which are sold by most of the souvenir shops. You can pick that sort of stuff up all over the world! The highest grades are the ones that still have leaf characteristics and don’t look like pellets. Look for Orange Pekoe and B.O.P. (Broken Orange Pekoe). The latter is a lot cheaper and is almost as good. There is an estate called “Nonsuch” that do a nice green box of good quality BOP. Note that Ooty itself does not have any tea plantations or tea factories.

The district also has some interesting wildlife in its two large national parks. These also have some spectacular scenery and contain elephants, gaur, tigers, panthers, bears, Nilgiri thar (mountain ibex) and a lot of deer species as well as giant Malabar squirrels, flying foxes and Langurs and other monkeys! However, generally most activities relating to wildlife, trekking or even walking take some time to organize, and therefore I recommend it is worth planning in order to get the most out of your trip!

Like so much in India, a visit to Ooty can also be a lot better for people on higher budgets. Some of the nicest colonial era buildings are now expensive hotels! (e.g. Savoy Hotel, Fernhill Palace etc.). Even if your budget does not allow a stay, it’s still worth popping in for a meal or a cup of tea on the lawn though! Likewise, if you can afford it then getting around to some of the smaller quieter places can be a lot more fun and interesting if you have your own transport which is also a lot faster! Generally, public transport in this mountain district is extremely slow! Also, if you are lucky enough to have access to visit or stay at one of the older colonial era clubs (such as by affiliation or invitation) or at one of the private guest-houses, a completely different side of Ooty can emerge!

I hope some of this information helps someone planning a trip! For people who have been to Ooty I hope this summary is this about right. Does anyone else have comments or experiences about Ooty that they can add?

Dacoit Chief, thanks a lot for this excellent piece of writting!!! I'm going to Nilgiris this December and I think now I'm much better prepared - I know what to expect And thanks for all places of interest you've mentioned - we'll try to visit them!

I would stay in Coonor, or similar, and visit Ooty. Yes, it is worth checking out, and the area is certainly worth a visit, but Ooty itself.... cold, wet and miserable, except for a few weeks of the year.

Dacoit, great thread , thanks for starting it!

We loved Coonoor and its surroundings. The stay in this area was one of the highights of a too brief, two week trip to So India.
We stayed near Coonoor at a beautiful mountainside resort, Kurumba Village.
We ennjoyed Sims Park and, similar to your advice about visiting hotels for tea or a meal, had lunch at the former Taj (now Gateway) in Coonoor. The village area away from the main part of Coonoor, on way to tea plantation, was beautiful with mist-shrouded hills and charming cottages. We saw the waterfalls, where monkeys romped amidst toursits taking photos.

Excellent advice about the tea! The chocolate tea sample was delicious, so we bought a large bag, carried it everywhere for the next couple week, got home...and threw it away. It was dust didnt taste like whatever they gave us at the tea factory. (For those who like Chocolate tea, you can get an excellent tin from Harney and Sons Teas.)

My big question before going was how the area compared to Munnar. Havent been yet to the latter, but i dont for a second regret the visit to Coonoor. We stopped in Ooty too, but i preferred the look and "feel" of Coonoor town and surroundings.

Hi Rebecca! I'm sorry that I can't really say much about Munnar. I have never been there. I have been told it is a lot more like Coonoor than Ooty though, but even smaller and more untouched. It also is a big Tea growing area!

I've been to Munnar 2 years back, and I hope I'll be at Nilgiris in a few weeks )) So than I'll be able to compare
By the way - I love Munnar, and it was a welcome change for Allapuzha humid hotness ))

Very well written Dacoit Chief - long time no see.
You already know which my favourite places are in the Nilgiris, which I hope to return to soon. I bought Non Such whole leaf tea in Chennai, it was good but perhaps not as nice as Kollukumalai leaf tea which is grown in Bodi near Munnar. Not that Im a connoisseur of tea, being a true blue coffee drinker, at the end of the day it is all a matter of individual taste. I understand that the Korahkundah teas are also very good. Agree with you completely about the undrinkable "dust" & CTC which I too bought, merely because they were cheap - some of it ending up in my vermicompost bin, I have serious doubts as to whether my worms appreciated the "donation".

Rebeccam,
Munnar or rather the Munnar region, is an excellent destination in its own right, distinct from the Nilgiris, although there are several similarities. In my opinion, both places, off the beaten track or in non peak season, are well worth visiting.

I would always do a quick shopping expedition to Ooty for King Star fudge and Ooty Bakery puffs and butter biscuits, ......I dream of them .......

On a separate note, I read about several incidents of landslides near Ooty in the last week.

The situation seems to be grave with a major portion of the Mettupalayam Coonoor, and Mettupalayam Kotagiri roads damaged. The railway tracks are damaged and the train service is suspended.

This is what I found from The Hindu online:
http://www.hindu.com/2009/11/12/stor...1254540800.htm

http://www.hindu.com/2009/11/13/stor...1351300300.htm
http://www.hindu.com/2009/11/13/stor...1351320300.htm

I havent been able to get through to our friends in Avalanche but will keep trying.

Sorry to hear that! I trust they will be safe in that area though! Hope you will eventually get through on the phone, though in my experience it can sometimes be weeks until telephone lines get sorted out especially in off-beat places like Avalanche! Or are you trying to get them by mobile? There is coverage out there to an extent but the power to the repeater station (transmission tower) which covers that area used to get knocked off a lot, especially with any heavy rain!

November can be a complete nightmare in the Nilgiris! It's always quite bad as so many places get cut off, and in some cases the whole district can be cut off! However, despite unbelievable damages, it always suprises me how quickly everything bounces back to normality! When so many people are affected, it really results in a community spirit in sorting out the infrastructure problems ASAP. Local Nilgiri people just cannot survive long without their lifelines to the plains, especially for fuel! In this regard it's good having a military regiment based in the Nilgiris, but it's also great to see the number of volunteers working on sorting out the roads!

For people who have plans on going there in the next few weeks, you have nothing to worry about. However, if you are planning a visit in the next few days this will not be worth it!

the locally made chocolates in ooty are really worth one wee visit



:brishti

Yes on the sweet tooth front, many people like the chocolates!

I presume those Ooty bakery Puffs are the sweet variety too? There is a variety of puff (pastry) called Varki that seems to be unique to the Nilgiris. In fact many of the traditional bakeries in the Nilgiris are very good! Lately a lot of new bakery chains (and cafes) have been popping up all over the place, for which there really wasn't much of a need in the Nilgiris. The traditional ones are much better and still a fraction of the price of the chains!

There is a very old bakery inside Coonoor market which makes the best Varki in my opinion. (I think it is called National Bakery). They also make decent bread! Also there is a small bakery in Ramchand square in Kotagiri which has a national reputation for amazing ginger biscuits.

Some updates on the current situation:

I just got off the phone with my Dad who just arrived there yesterday. He says that local reports say there are about 50 dead. The main road from Mettupalayam to Coonoor is blocked and closed to all vehicles. Even the road between Coonoor and Ooty is closed, but there are backroutes that can be taken! The road from Mettupalayam to Kotagiri has a lot of damage, but it is open again for light vehicles. So currently there is no bus or lorry access from Tamilnadu at all (i.e. Eastern side of the Nilgiris). These are the most important supply routes, so currently there is no Diesel or Petrol available at the pumps in the Nilgiris at all. However, essential service vehicles can still buy Diesel fuel in a few places by special permit!

Road access from the West (i.e. from Karnataka and Kerala) is open, and some supplies are now being routed that way! Once a few sales tax issues get sorted out, most supplies should be restored within a few days.. (at least for the fuel). The Nilgiris are somewhat unfortunate as its western access routes are all via different States, for which trucks need special permits to transit. The western side is usually spared the heavy November rains a lot more than the Eastern side but because of the state border line issue, sometimes at times of crisis like this, the bureaucracy to do with the different levels of taxation in the different states of India becomes a major obstacle.

On the ground the situation is still a bit gloomy! Everyone seems to agree that this years Novemember rains have been much more cruel than usual! Countless tree's have been uprouted, and several more are being felled for safety concerns! Most communications (fixed telephone, mobile and internet) in the larger towns are back to normal. Electricity is still patchy!

Coonoor, Kotagiri and Eastern areas get a lot more action in this monsoon which is the retreating North East monsoon. On the western side: Ooty, Gudalur and other western areas (including Mudumalai, Mukherti, Avalanche) are often left spared in November, although they get a lot more rain in the normal June/July South West monsoon! The two monsoons are different in nature too! The SW monsoon is long and wet, whereas the NE monsoon is shorter and sharper!! Hence the reason why on average Ooty is generally a much wetter (more English) place than Coonoor!

The Ooty bakery puffs I was referring to [yummmm] are spicy veg. puffs with literally a mille feuille - thousand exceedingly thin layers of puff pastry, they do chicken too but Im a "fishy" - tarian so cant comment on those. The cakes are pretty good too, light and baked to perfection as are the butter biscuits - salty with just the slightest hint of sugar ..... and every street corner has a traditional bakery, no wonder the bakery products are so good.

The Varki is what we call the Khari and its variants, easily available in Mumbai at every Irani bakery.

The Ooty chocolate was not anything to rave about in my opinion - about as bad as the so called "home made chocolates" sold by many enterprising house wives in Mumbai.

However the fudge at King Star was superlative, in fact their chocolates were better than elsewhere in Ooty but again, not that great either. I am always amused to find chocolates sold at each and every shop in Ooty including the hardware, plumbers and electrician!


On a more serious note, I hope that everything gets back to normal sooner rather than later, and hopefully in time for the winter tourist season. Still havent got through to my friends in Avalanche, but mobile connectivity there is always dependent on where you are at the moment. No landlines there.

Anything for the tourists! The electricians suppliers also do really well out of selling fancy electric heaters to the tourists, which the hotels really hate! Many budget hotels in the Nilgiris have had to get rid of plug points in rooms for this reason!

I wanted to comment on the chocolates above in my post but then thought I had already done enough damage to Ooty's reputation in the first post. That's why I simply said "many people like the chocolate". However, now that you've mentioned them, I will add that in my opinion too, these chocolates are completely overated! ("overated"... like so much in Ooty these days!) The chocolate is nothing to write home about, and definitely not worth a detour in any way! I am always bemused when friends ask me to pick some up for them when they know I am going to Ooty, and am tempted to pick up an empty box and make some myself from stale nuts, milk powder and cocoa powder when I get home! I'm sure nobody will notice the difference!

My sincere apologies to all the members of the Ooty chocolate appreciation society!

One more question I forgot to ask!
I know the ones you mean! I love those too but the quality is quite variable. Is that a bakery called "Ooty Bakery" or where you referring to them generally?

By the way, in Nilgiris they tend to call them "Veg Pups" Maybe they sell well alongside the Hot Dogs!

Wonderful piece of writing! As a "native son" Dacoit Chief, you painted a great picture and tied the old and the new together nicely, thanks...might be a good thing to have other native sons do articles on their places of birth all over India..the update from your Dad was timely...so sad to hear of the mess down there with the monsoons and hope all improves soon. Good thread!