Trekking and Mountaineering in India - Hiking the hills or going on a walkabout.

Should I fly to Leh?


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Old Mar 8th, 2004, 19:05   #1
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Cool July '04 - your are opinions valued!

Dear all


First up, I want to say a HUGE thanks to everyone who has posted. You all rule! I am so grateful for the experiential information which has already been so useful. some funny posts too. Nice one indiamike for making this all possible. ;-)


Now I¡¯m asking for more specific information. umm. I guess I should say a little about myself to give you guys an idea of what I¡¯m up to. I am a 22-year old Kiwi, in South Korea teaching English. I¡¯m a non-drinking, non-smoking vegetarian who is healthily obsessed with Yoga. My contract finishes here in June, so on 1st of July I¡¯m off to India. Sweet!

(I have found several posts about some of these topics but I am hoping for more info) I feel a little cheeky asking so many questions but any answers would be fully appreciated people!!

I will probably arrive on the 2nd or the 3rd of July and be in India for 1 month. I am aware that it will be monsoon season and quite hot.

Got a rough itenirary;

Early July; Arrive in Dehli. Stay for a few days and do a day-trip to Agra in that time. Anyone know any good one day tours to take?

Then to Ladakh but I am unsure how to get to Leh. -- Should I fly and then bus down? Or bus up and down? Is there hecticness getting a plane ticket if thats the case? What is accomodation like at the time?

I feel the road trip would be pretty epic so I'd like to take it at least one way. Either way I'd lax around for a week or so (acclimatizing anyway), then taking the bus down over a few days. Is accomodation difficult to find in Dharamsala or Leh at this time? What are some nice sites around Leh? Then down through Manali and Dharamsala
(is Chamba worth visiting? and what about Kalpa and Sangla? Does anyone know if the Dalai Lama will be in Dharamsala for his birthday (6July)? I have emailed his page but no reply and any schedules for 2004 finish before July.... )
Mcleod Ganj, Shimla and onto Uttaranchal

I want to check out Dehra Dun, Rishikesh, and Haridwar. -but lp reckons its the wrong time of year. true? I have heard that Mussoorie is nice but maybe be wet and packed at that time of year? opinions?

I am considering going to Nepal through the Banbassa point but I don't know how muddy the roads will be and if there;s much to see. If I do the Nepal mission I'd probably bus along to Sunauli and go down to Varanasi
If not through Nepal, then through the Northern parts of Uttar Pradesh ending up in Varanasi. What is a good amount of time to spend there?

Then the last leg would be through Bihar, most likely Bodhgaya, and Munger.
--
So thats the whole mish in about 3 weeks or 4. I'm thinking this might be a little hectic though....

got some general questions too.

-I was wondering if anyone has stayed with a family, organized through the State Tourist office. The lonely planet book refers to this a few times but doesn¡¯t really say much else. Comments anyone?

-Is it possible to open a bank account while travelling in India? This would allow for local ATMs being less problematic.

-
Phew! Thanks in advance guys.


-
Am I becoming the world in which I wish to live?
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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 06:24   #2
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Hi there,

Leh is great place. I recommend you fly into Leh. The reason for this is that if you drive in you end up spending the night at about 4000m - which is higher than Leh itself (3600m). You'll probably have a very uncomfortable night.
I fly into Leh last summer - the flight is spectacular!
I must admit that I felt like shit when I got there for a couple of days. Make sure you drink loads and loads of water and take it very easy when you arrive.
It is an incredibly dry climate so you will dehydrate very quickly.

There lots of great things to see around Leh. Leh Palace is interesting - although it was 'under repair' last summer. The view from Shanti Stupa is nice. There are some nice back streets to stroll around in the northern area of town.
There are several lovely old Gompas around Leh - which are well worth a visit. The monks are generally very friendly and seem to enjoy showing you around.
A little further afield is Alchi Gompa - which I think is the 'prize-winning' Gompa in the area. Lamayaru is also highly regarded.
When you are better acclimatised trips to the Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake and the Suru valley are all well worth while. I loved every one of those places especially Panikhar in the Suru valley.
Tso Mori is also supposed to be really nice but I didn't get there myself.
As far as accomodation is concerned there is loads is Leh but, in the summer it does get very busy - so you may have to do a little leg work.
Mind you, the hotel owners and touts will 'jump' on you after you get off the plane.
I would also try and book your plane ticket well in advance - before you leave for India if you can.

Hope this helps

RTP.

PS Make sure you have a supply of traveller cheques for Leh. US$, GB£ or Euros. There are no suitable cash machines and the money changers will shark you for 8% on a credit card advance.

PPS You really don't need to open a bank account for a month long trip.
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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 08:52   #3
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Congrats on your upcoming trip. I have little to add to Robs advice. Flying up is a good idea esp. with a hectic schedule. And the road is spectacular.

I hope the Leh palace repairs Rob mention get underway - the palace was built at the same time as the Potala and should be a world heritage.

Re Dalai Lamas birthday : he is in Edinburgh on June 3rd , according to the posted schedule - check there for updates.
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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 12:37   #4
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His Holiness sometimes spends his birthday in Leh, as he has a summer palace there (well, just outside of Leh, in Choglamsar).
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Old Mar 9th, 2004, 20:09   #5
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I was lucky enough to see the Dalai Lama's birthday speech last summer. It was certainly an experience! There were thousands at Choglamsar and they certainly loved the Big D!
Also, while I was there my friends and I had a long chat with some students while strolling round one of the Gompas (Stakna I think) - they were preparing a submission for UNESCO. They were hoping to get the ancient sites of Leh added to the World Heritage list. I do hope they are successful. Especially comparing the sites in Leh to what rubbish passes as a world heritage site here in Japan. (If anyone has been to the so-called traditional city of Kyoto (concrete monstrosity) will know what I mean).
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Old Mar 10th, 2004, 13:53   #6
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Few things:
03 – 04 weeks with Nepal: VERY HECTIC that too with a bus both ways to Nepal.

You have not mentioned about trekking…do u intend to do one?

If you are trekking (barring the Markha valley, Nubra valley and Sham trek), then you should fly in. If you do not intend to trek at all (maybe only a few day hikes), then drive up from Manali to Leh… Reason being, half the fun is in getting there! When you drive up, it is a dramatic (and drastic) changes in the scenery that is so breath taking!! I am sorry; I am at a loss of adjectives here! BUT REMEMBER to take it slowly. I also suggest people to take 03 days on the way up between Manali to Leh instead of the usual 02 days that is bound to get you sick. Look at a post on this website – I think it is posted by vistet…..take something from his experience.

I would suggest you to take a train to Pathankot – bus to Dharamshala – spend a few days there and then bus to Manali – another 2 days here. From Manali, try to go either on an organised trip with a trip coordinator who will explain things as you go. Or, atleast try to hook up with others and rent a jeep for the drive to Leh. I personally do not like the bus as it is too big and if you have the rear seats, you will be shaking at each turn – making you badly sick & nauseated! Yuck! (or, maybe I am too spoilt! Tihihi!)

You can easily spend a week looking around in Leh. I like to spend a night in Alchi – though if you want to stay in a monastery, then go to the monastery guesthouse in Lamayuru.

You can easily spend 2 or more weeks doing this trip and then fly back. Train to Varanasi (through Bodhgaya maybe) – gorakhpur – Sunauli – KTM and maybe fly back to Delhi….Don’t go by the banbassa border – it is not safe and also it is taking MUCH longer due to the numerous police checkposts that seem to have come up everywhere!

Or, fly in and go to Shimla and Sangla valley…it is beautiful. I hope that the Mulling nalla work will be finally completed this year so that people can go across to Spiti Via the Hindustan Tibet road…any update here will be helpful.

Lastly, take your time and ENJOY your trip! Do not be in a rush to visit all the places – you got to return someday! :-)))))

Oh, forgot your other questions:
If you intend to stay with a family – you can do that in Leh. somebody at IM may be able to guide you properly here.

Why bank account? Carry a combination of cash & TC’s in addition to your card.

Cheerio!
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 19:05   #7
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wow! thanks so much guys and girls ,. So cool to hear from people who have actually done this/. wicked!

regarding the Dalai Lama, I have kept my eye on that link and it has been updated so hopefully it'll reach his b'date soon enough!.

Still undecided about flying or busing. I mean I will bus down anyway. its all good

and will probably give Nepal a miss

Has anyone ever tried the homestay thing? I was curious about expectations from the family. The balance between cultural imersion and still having some sort of freedom.
Anyway, thanks again everyone!
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Old Mar 11th, 2004, 20:38   #8
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How about flying in and busing out!
You won't regret the views you get on the flight - they're rather nice to say in the least!
I'd go mountain girls way if I had a stack of time - coz the places she mentions are great - but a few weeks, yup definately fly.
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