sangla - harsil

AvidTrekker

is available to me in the Himalayan Club library.... but i may not be able to go there for another five days. I'll check it out and post it on this forum.

Could you please translate the French above into English? I'd be most thankful!

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AndreasW

Thanks, no hurry please...

Sorry, French isn't "my language" too! - Hope there are someone, who could translate the French above into English. I understand only a little bit the meaning of this itinerary

jyotipg

1 and 2: Flight Paris/Delhi.

3 and 4: Departure drank some for the station of altitude of Mussoorie, located on the buttresses himalayens. The following day, gone up in the vehicle of the valley of Gange until Uttarkashi. Nights in hotel.

5: Short transfer conveys some until Sangam Chatti (1850 m). Beginning of the excursion until Agoda (2280 m). (3 H of walk

6: We cross a dense forest of pines and cedars, populated by the pastorale ethnos group of Gujjars. Camping at the edge of the Lake Dodi Tal (3300 m). (4/5H).

7: The rise continues while the forest leaves little by little place to the mountain pastures to the sheep-fold of Cheppa (4000 m). (5/6H).

8: Re descent through large meadows before finding the skirt of forest in Been (3450 m). (5/6H).

9: Long day of rise on a rocky ground to the foot of the collar of Bamsaru Khal (4500 m). (6/7H).

10: We climb the last 300 meters to arrive at the collar of Bamsaru Khal (4800 m). Exceptional sight on the surrounding mountains (exceeding for some the 6500 m). Redescente to the sheep-fold of Chhaya (3500 m). Many Gujjars in the neighbourhoods. (5H).

11: Increase in direction of Gidara (4300 m) by landscapes of high mountain. (6H).

12: Redescente (one moreover!) until Gujjar Hut (2800 m). The fronière tibétaine is very close. (5H).

13: The soft inclined path carries out us through cultures and small villages until Sukhi, large village fixed on the mountain and located in the valley of Gange (3200 m). (5H).

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AndreasW

@jyotipg

Thanks for translation! It's very helpful! - Great community here...

himadventures

This is good trail but posts from AVID and JYOTI should be taken seriously and AVID is also correct about Kapadia.

You can find ( have to work hard ) guide from SANGLA or CHITKUL as by my experience very few shepherds are crossing over this pass these days.

Do not try chhotkhaga/lamkhaga without proper information and guidence.

ABOUT PERMIT: You have to have permit and rules are getting tougher-although I am not sure about PRISON but you will be sent back,for sure.
If you have hi tech cameras -you may land up further in trouble.
Even MONKS are not allowed without permits but they are taken easily as ITBP respects local sentiments BUT not every where and not by everyone !

I had faced difficulty in starting K.K Parokarma in 2004 with clients-we have to have PERMIT from DC/Recong Peo and there is no escape...

Even this PERMIT IS NOT trekking permit but this is PERMIT to travel on HT road but ITBP condier this as documentation that govt. knows your presence in area and you are through....

AvidTrekker

jyotipg, you have really excelled yourself! Thanks very very much for the French-to-English translation. Bamsaru Khal is an eminently do-able pass if we are to go by this version.

himadventures, you have confirmed my suspicions. Take a road permit and go trekking!! But there are no roads in the rest of Garhwal like the HT Road in Kinnaur!!

jyotipg

Folks,

Translation is not a big deal.. Dont thank me.. Better Thank Google for it.
Here is the link that did all the wonders..

http://www.google.com/language_tools

JP

lucky

Hi Folks

I owe a lot to this forum for planning this trek to Borasu pass. A copy of brief travelogue pasted here shall thus be in order.

ciao

Back from Borasu

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi

I'm back from Borasu Pass trek. It was an exhilirating trek to say the least. We did the trek with the help of Har-ki-doon protection and mountaineering association. The group is based in Sankri. The trek started at sankri as the road to Taluka was blocked by huge landslides.

Day1 Sankri to Taluka (10-12 Km, 6-7 hrs) Except for the landslides, it is an even walk through a broad trek. Taluka wore a deserted look. We camped by the forest bungalow.

Day2 Taluka-Dhatmeer-Gangwar-seema (18-20 Km's, 11 hrs) The old trek from Taluka to Seema which used to go along the river (Borasu gad) had vanished. We had to take a long detour through Dhatmeer and Gangwar. Before Dhatmeer there was one place where descent was like getting into a well. It will be a while before villagers make this alternate route trek worthy. Yes It is the gram panchayats of four villages which have taken up the responsibility of making these routes. The forest guys have fled the scene and instead of helping out the stranded villagers, imposed Rs 8.0 lac fine on the gram sabha (comprising the panchayats of four villages Taluka, Osla, Dhatmeer, Puani). The villagers are defiant and in no mood to relent. It was visible from the "Noble Gel" sticks (dynamite) sticks they were carrying. The road shall be made. Regardless of the park officials and their fiats.
We had a sort of reunion at Dhatmeer with our porter; Kirti, who accompanied us in 1999 to HKD.
Dhatmeer was almost midway. from here 4 km's to Gangwar and then 5 more to Seema. It was 7 in the evening bythe time we reached Seema/Osla Forest rest house.
Gangwar to seema the trek runs along Borasu Gad. The river was visibly swollen this time. Wild flowers were in profusion. I could gather exactly 25 types of them. A more trained eye could have spotted some more.

It rained quite heavily in the night. Then it cleared out. The stars were out immediately after.

Day3 Osla to HKD (13 km, 7-8 hrs, 2800M to 3650M) This is the day with Max altitude gain. Though the trek is an ever rising ramp, the flowery resplendance soothes the ruffled senses and the prickly sun. The wild growth was more than six feet tall at places. The slopes were all bedecked with small sun flower and one purple variety.
Reached HKD at 3 in the AN. Started to rain by 4. What a down pour. And it lasted for good three hours. And then silence again. HKD was the same serene place as I had seen 6 years back. Stream coming from Jaundhar Glacier was visible in the valley opposite. As per the Chowkidar of the forest bungalow, the glacier had receeded by 4-5 km's in last 20 years.

Day4 HKD to Ratta-tho (Ratta means red and tho is stone in local parlance, so Ratta-tho is Lal Pathar, red stone) 3650 M to 4000 M, 4-5 km's, 2-3 hrs.
Most gentle walk along Borasu gad. On the way is the Maninda tal (Written Morinda tal on some itin's). There was a shepherd camp there. They offerred tea which we greatfully accepted. Here two rocks obstruct the course of Borasu Gad and Maninda tal is formed. Not more than 20 M across. This is also the end of tree line. Small juniper bush, Yellow flowerettes (Doodh phool) merrily swayed. Another two Km's and we were at Ratta Tho. Hardly 12.00 noon.
Lazed about in tents and under the sun. Shepherds were still there. Borasu peaks were now visible from here.

Day 5 Ratta tho to Sauni Bhera(Sauni from Sawan, Bhera from bher(sheep). At this place sheep come only in the month of Sawan, that's why Sauni-Bhera!) 4-5 Km's, 5 hrs, 4000 M to 4500M. Initially it was ok. But then suddenly we hit a boulder field. And sfter that no let up. Boulders boulders and more boulders. Continuous vigil on your feet gives you servicle pain. After three hours of slog we reached Sauni Bhera. A cute little meadow in which Borasu gad spreads like a hundred arms and then recollects before flowing down. Borasu peaks were towering before us. On one side was the way to Gibson pass, which leads to the same glacier, Jupkia on the other side. Checked up with our guides, Chandan singh rana and Ram Lal and they told that the next day we have to camp on the base of the pass. The base was visible. It was a steep climb over boulders and some scree. We quietly braced ourselves for the next day. Everyone was breathing normal, ealting normal. So far so good.

The day was spent merrimaking and lazing about. The small puddles of water here and there reflected all the peaks around. Clicked some shots.

Day 6 Sauni-Bhera to Lam-jhoonga (2 Km's, 4500M to 4900M, 2 hrs) Before setting off I casually asked Ram Lal "Does Lam-jhoonga too mean something?" Pat came the reply "Of course! Lam is Long (As in Lam-khaga), and Jhoonga is moustache!!!!!!!!!! Therefore Lam-jhoonga is long-moustache. And then he actually showed me how. Looking towards the Borasu peaks, I could see a formation like a face in the middle and two moraine fields running laft and right were like moustaches. On one of the moustaches we are to camp! Precarious proposition this!
But moustache it was. We were there in two hours and there was this merciless sun beating down on us. We lay scattered on the boulders the whole day. Singing, laughing, cursing sometiomes.
Looking back I guess that From HKD to Lamjhoonga one day can be saved. I'll say don't stop at Ratta-tho and reach Sauni-Bhera in one day. We could have made it by three in the AN but we were not sure about the distances and the terrain. But then on the otherside, the gain of a day is loss of leisure.
Lamjhoonga has barely enough space for four five tents. Ten of us had to squeeze in two four men tents. It was tough but had to be done.

Day 7 Lamjhoonga to Borasu Pass to Bonga ( 4900M to 5180 M to 4500M). Started early at five. None of us had earlier walked on snow. But it was easier than expected. About one km walk on snow on the up. Borasu pass was now within reach. It is not as much a pass as a spire near the ridge. A steep gradient in the last 30-40 metres. Loose stones were a cause of worry. So we went one at a time. Aided by Porters. At 9.30 we were on the pass. A group of trekkers from Bengal who had kept us company right from Sankri joined us there soon after. The ridge is so narrow that it is barely 5 M across.
All of us huddled there for photos, slogans and hand shakes. The Bengali group called for national anthem which was performed with all respects. The other side opened up very spectacularly. The Jupkia Glacier field was visible. the downside of pass had snow too. It faced east so it was softer. Porters sort of toboganned down and told us to follow. We did. But then decided in favour of sanity. And started to walk. About half a Km and then steep descent over loose boulders and scree slope. This was the toughest part. About 200 M downwards (vertical distance) over scree and boulder slope was tougher than expected. The stones wouldn't just listen! A slight pressure and go rolling over. It required safe walking with each one informed about the perils. It was done in one hour time. Just when we though it was over, there was more in store. Jupkia Glacier field is nearly 1.5 km wide. The path is all strewn with boulders. Sharp, big. And we thought we had done our bit from Ratta-tho to Sauni-Bhera.. This would take forever. Stone by stone. Step by step. all attention on the step. The moment you attempt two things in one go(like boulder hopping and looking around), injury is always at hand. It was negotiated slowly and safely before the final climb over a steep ridge leading to Bonga. Climb up the ridge was a slippery affair. But with little help we could do it. From here it was three km's walk to Bonga. Entirely over the ridge. we were walking parallel to Jupkia Glacier. Short of Bonga we were joined by another tributary of Jupkia Gad. The more the merrier. Flowers showed up again. Good! Bonga was near.
Ah! Bonga, a nice, wide meadow. Shepherds, here too. We had to crossover the stream to reach the meadow. The water stung. It was 5 Pm. And very cold. The coldest of places so far enroute. A long day. And a well deserved rest. Retired early to be up early. The next day too was long.

Bonga to Ranikanda (4500M to 4000M, 13 Km, 8 hrs) boulders wouldn't leave. I saw such persistence after a very long time. After some difficult descent, the boulders settled down to an acceptable level. And then we were joined by the Jupkia Gad. A lot of water. A lot of noise. A whole lot of floweres. Violet Lashkars and red Lamachi (local names). Couldn't stop bending over and hello'ing these evanascent blossoms. The course was nothing short of a song for atleast four km's. And then tree line appeared most mysterioulsly. One Bhoj, then another and then a whole jungle of them. Soft grass beneath. a rolling meadow in front. The roar of Baspa. Ranikanda was near. Yet far. Three Km's from here to the bridge at Ranikanda. Boulders again. Testing times. Reached Ranikanda at 5 Pm. tents were up. ITBP posts were deserted. They had moved up further. The bridge over Baspa had to crossed tomorrow. Till then we remain tethered to yesterday.
A very lonely place. A big meadow. Boys and girls from Chitkul were coming back from Karu Devta's temple which is about 20 Km upstream. Clean water had to be fetched from one Km.

Day 9 Ranikanda to Chitkul, 4000M to 3450 M, 12 Km's 6 hrs

A very plasant walk along the river course. Chitkul beckoned from a distance. I guess distance is its reward itself. For distance is the motive force. It calls to be bridged. Once bridged, it becomes a passage for easy retrospection from where nostalgia, remembrance...can easily take us down the memory lane.
Chitkul it was after the ITBP post at Nagasti. Where we were offerred hot tea by the staff. Nobody questioned about any permits.

Chitkul was the same as seen ten years ago. Except a change in its population from 494(1995) to 610(2005). The same pea fields. harvest at hand. Families busy in harvesting peas. The wind swept solitude. The same stream running through the village was there. At the welcome gate as you enter Chitkul from Nagasti side, the same auspiciousness of Budhist deities greets you ans also strips you of any evil that you might have brought along. The mellow glow of wick lamp is heartening. People! at last. Checked in staraight into thakur guest house. Nihore lal remembered us as the pack who tried doing Kinner Kailash Parikrama from the wrong side and failed. He didn't carry any malaise as was evident from 50% discount he offered us. Old times sake. Chitkul is an old village. You can put one year for each denizen. Almost 400 years. It used to be thriving trade centre between Tibbet and India. The cultural revolution in China (Annexing Tibbet) gagged this route. many people migrated to Uttaranchal. Some moved down. The more hardy stayed back.

More will follow.
Lucky

jyotipg

Congrats Lucky..
Your write up is very useful.. Pls do let me know how to contact the
Har-ki-doon protection and mountaineering association.

Did you find any other media of communicating with chandan singh Rana other than the letters??

I look forward to this trek next year.. Any best time you may want to suggest for this trek??

Waiting for the pics too..

ddutta

licky , thanx for sharing . Waiting for follow-up & pics.

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lucky

Hi Jyotipg

Thanks. You can try contacting Har-Ki-Doon...... agency at following numbers

Bhagat Singh (President) 094129-18140 (the phone belongs to his nephew Chain Singh Rawat. He will pass on the message to Bhagat Singh in case you are lucky to find Chain Singh!!

Mori STD (mannu) 01373-233309

Mannu is a better contact. He too would pass on your message to Bhagat Singh or Chandan Singh.

Still better; you write a letter

Bhagat singh/Chandan singh Rana
harkidun Protection and mountaineering association (regd.)
Sankari, Distt uttarkashi-249185

It can take upto a month for the reply to reach you.

Best days for the trek; as told by Chandan Singh- 15th Aug to 15th sept.
By 15th sept flowers wither away. We started trek on 19th. It rained at Osla, HKD. But in the night at OSLA, and at 4pm at HKD. Beyond that rain thins out.

All the best for next year!!

Lucky

VSK Sharma

Hi, One year has passed. Any one else did the trek and what is the lattest on the permits issue.
VSK

himadventures

You can find guide in SANGLA but preffer a shepherd as they are much sure than anyone saying YES-I CAN GO.

har-ki-dun trail is also correct but very few people knew about these routes now as with passage of time this region has become RICH...and now people do not trek to visit families except poor shepherds.

Dilliwala

Curiosity about these names and a bit of googling led to a brand new report about this trek on the web. Only a few weeks old, altho the trek was done a few years ago.
It's the first article on this website, albeit the route being not as Andreas mentioned, but Dodi Tal-Darwa-Bin Gad-Bamsaru Khal (a.k.a Bamsor pass)-Dayara Bugyal.

And what are the chances that the writer is an IM member? He is!
Joined pretty recently, too. I remember seeing ashutosh's link to his blog in some other thread.
So now that we've tracked him down , he cud be asked to fill in the blanks re any queries about the region. What an irony that the trek took place just a few weeks after it was mentioned in this thread, i.e. May 2005!

Andreas,
one of the google links led to your forum. It appears that none of your fellow-members have done the trek upto now, is that right?

AndreasW

Ha... it's so much to do on this beautiful world!!! No, no-one of our members have done the trek upto now. Thanks for this link...

At spring I'll visit your "awfully pretty neighbours".

India must wait...

AndreasW