Rupin pass crossed in April

Thanks guys - just recounting it the way I experienced it - thought that was pretty boring for someone else to read. Nice to know that it isn't.

So the last day had come - everyone was happy to have crossed the pass the previous day and survived the cold night on snow. I was feeling stable - not exhilirated as despite a lot of rest, we were still at a good altitude and I wasn't feeling that I could run down to Sangla in a single breath (I would feel that way much later). The trek down started at 8:30 am after a light breakfast, but I was still feeling heavy breathing so kept my gait light. As usual the guide, kept on saying that the snow will end in 2-3 km, but it just wouldn't finish. It was like we were in a Kafka Novel and the snow was the villain. Don't get me wrong, it was really beautiful and I wish I was in good shape to enjoy the whole scenery.

After a slow progress of 5 km in 5 hours we came to a spot where snow disappeared and there was land - we were jubiliant like sailors who find land. The guide was a little worried that I will not make it down to Sangla and ask them to camp before that and so told me that our pace should be much higher now. I did not oblige and told him we will get to Sangla that day but at my pace - I am a natural walker and the body tells me what pace to take - what I have seen is that on a downslope I can do a very good pace if I know that the target is not far.

But before that, let me say, the Kinnaur side is really-really beautiful. It is just 15 odd km to the pass from this side, so one can very quickly get into meadows (for us they were snow dunes) and beautiful pointy mountains (the Rupin side were more rounded and wider ones). The Kinner Kailash range is visible in its beauty, though not the Kinner Kailash itself. I would love to be back from this side - though it is tougher to climb so much altitude so quickly.

We had a nice lunch after the snow line and got some fresh water for the first time in 24 hours - had a good drink, a bowl of maggi and took off the gaiters in the hope of having the snow off our backs. The video of sliding snow was shot here. Nooo - the snow was back after the next turn, it was on and off but there were still huge stretches. Basically, gullies between peaks from which snow flowed as a stream would flow - it was also a bit soft and slippery at places, making the two sticks I had carried very handy, saving me from a few slips, when the legs lost their grip (understood that God gave us two hands and two legs, basically to cross snow ). Finally, after 8 odd km from the last camp, the snow fully disapperared. We were in Sangla Kanda by then - the villagers have huts and fields there but do not stay there in this season - we took shelter in one of them when it was raining hard.

It started snowing and these were larger snow flakes than on previous two days - really out of this world to walk in those meadows (again a bit brown becasue of the season but can imagine how it would be in June) with snow falling across our faces and on the back. Would have loved to stop and just enjoy the surroundings at many places and this was definitely one of them - but doing a heavy snow trek in 5 days - keep walking mate.

So the straight path finally came and Sangla was 6-7 kilometers from there and I had recovered fully from AMS given the loss of altitude (felt really good only around 3000-3500m) - I suddenly doubled my speed and raced ahead of everyone (kept it that way through the downslope - till the last 500m, which was an incline on the road - sadly again the last guy to reach). The guide, whose main job last two days had been to push me was so surprised that he exclaimed "You have become young again" - doesn't sound very good in hindi.

Lower down the fruit trees in bloom and the general greenery around with backdrop of the snow laden mountains is etched in my mind as one of the really picturesque scenes witnessed in the mountains - I would recommend Kinnaur as definitely one of the must see places and intend to return for a longer stay there.

It was Baspa guesthouse for the night at Sangla, which is a small hill town but reasonably well organised. Could speak to family on the phone, reply to messages, a hot meal and good sleep - realised I was 580 km from Delhi, which would have taken 15 hours of driving so decided to break it at Shimla and do it over two days.

The Bolero I hired, dropped me at Solan in a little over 8 hours - we took a very brief break at Narkanda enroute (which is another nice hill station - cooler than Sangla though at the same height). The road is very very good, except two patches (Sangla-Karchaam, 17km which is not the NH and Kufri-Shimla, 16 km - no idea when this will improve). The road from Solan to Delhi next day is phenomenal, took a little over 4 hours - Kalka Byepass opening has really made it a pleasure - but beware of cops catching people for overspeeding around Panipat

Thoroughly enjoyed it - and as a friend had said before, the memories are so much more sweeter and the toil and pain is soon forgotten - true everytime.

Nice writeup; have been walking up with you Keep posting.

It definitely isn't boring...no no...no way!!

Thanks a lot for the detailed and excellent account of your trek.The photographs were also quite inspiring.
Can you please tell me if there is any way I can join the rupin pass trek route from Rohru?

Yes you can - there is a road from Rohru-Chanshil (4000m)-Close to Jiksoon. It is a dirt road but okay for a jeep. It closes when it snows as Chanshil is quite high (was closed when I went) but should open my end May.

Thanks,any idea as to how many kms or how long will it take in a jeep?

Solo Motorbike Expedition to Chanshal-Dodra-Kwar.

It says 65 km here (Rohru to Dodra, which is ahead of Chanshal) - another blog puts it at 180 km from Shimla (and says Chanshal divides Rohru side from Dodra side so cannot be very far). The guide said Chanshal was 50 km by road (much less trekking). Given the road is a dirt road (but a flat one), best to take a Mahindra vehicle. Sorry don't have exact info but my guess would be less than 100 km total and 5 hour journey (could be less).

Thanks a lot for the info.

Brilliant writeup Rajat!!! I might go for this trek on 26th May!! Currently confused whether to go to Rupin or Roopkund!!!

Can you please give me contact info for Chain Singh Rawat ji??

Thanks Sach. Have PMd you the contact. I haven't been to Roopkund but have read a lot about it. Following may help:
1. Roopkund is a more popular trek, so more people enroute but also cheaper (I believe they have fibre glass huts in between so tents may not be required - pls check on this).
2. Both are very scenic but different - I think Roopkund is a bit more green (big meadows) but Rupin covers two valleys so more variety.
3. Roopkund is 5000m, Rupin 4600m (so less strenuos) but that depends on your past trekking experience. Also, May end is still beginning of season and this year snow has been at record levels, so both will have a lot of snow - Rupin, I have explored so very much doable if you keep 6 days (depends on how much snow is left - even 5 days may be possible). Roopkund - not sure anyone has done this season yet - so one will not know exact conditions.

Thank for the contact info and the comparison between Roopkund n Rupin...

I just spoke to Debu(guide for Roopkund). He has just came back from Roopkund with a couple. And they couldn't reach Roopkund!!! :-( Though he said, ice might be lesser in 12 days if it doesn't hail storm anymore!!!

I had gone with Debu on Pindari - being from Khati vill. not sure if he goes to Roopkund that often, but he is very competent. Ask him for following details:
1. Where does continuos snow start from and for how long?
2. Till what point did the couple reach and how strong were they as per Debu.
3. How deep was the snow at the point they returned from?
4. How soft was the snow early morning?

If the continuos snow stretch is less than 10 km - it is going to be tough but still possible if the snow is not very soft (if you start your days early, harder snow is easy to walk on as your feet do not go in completely).

Lastly, what is your previous snow walking experience - if this is your first snow trek, do Rupin, which will have lesser snow?

By the way, clouds, hail and more snow all help in melting the existing snow and it barely snows 2-3 inches in this season so it is not a problem.

All four of us haven't done a trek on snow before. I think we should stick to Rupin Pass only!! What do you suggest?