Queries on Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama in August '07

arunnegi

ya in fact even i was wondering why would one require a inner permit.
did you wife and son walk all the way? any problems you encountered with acclimitisation or something

niro

Can this trek done at October?
Do non-Indian need a premit? if so- do I issued in Rekong Peo? how does it done?
There is a motroable road from Rekong Peo to Thangi?

Thanks

himadventures

This is tough and challenging job. Ihave following comments..

1. You have to take special ..very special care for 70 yrs. old. This is not only hand and knee job while climbing the pass ...it is a very long and tiring descending.

2. Like avid says...I have not seen or heard availability of gear in PEO. I think you should carry all gear with you.

3. You should also get PERMIT/PERMISSION to do this from SDM/DM of PEO. People are sent back from THANGI itself.

1. Office of SDM is nice building which is near BUS STAND of PEO.
2. You have to have PERMIT/PERMISSION. Keep passport size snaps ready with you.
3. You should not do this trek in OCTOBER-this could be very cold but last year two of our staff members did this in OCTOBER with cloudless weather !!

Here are some images which can provide you details of this region and trail.

http://www.himadventures.net/media-g...uit/index.html

AND

http://www.himadventures.net/media-g...lash/index.htm

landoormama

Good Shot Andreas!
Keep Shooting

Pijush Kanti Mondal

Friends,

Am writing from Dubai - reached on 31st night by Siryan Air. Writing after managing month-end Production hassles. However, posted only 10 snaps as there is the limitation upto 10. Following are few lines from my Travelog.

Short Diary of a Pilgrim returned from Kinnaur Kailash Parikrama. Shall think it nice if it helps to the others.

3/8 - Reached Delhi at 11.30am by Syrian Air. Met my Parents & Brother-in-Law (Jayanta)at N/Delhi Station, come by Rajdhani Exp. Stayed over-night at Delhi. Witnessed heavy Shower in the evening - disappointed us.

4/8 - Reached Simla enroute Chandigarh (Del - Ch'garh by Himalayan Queen, rest by Bus). Stayed in YMCA - Simla. Only the mishap happened here when we found my Movie Camera is not working caused by some mechanical damage - as I kept it in my Sack. But the Still Snap was working (Memory Card). We tried to repair it in Simla - but time didn't permit. We had another still - digital camera. Decided to manage the shots with these two.

5/8 - Left Simla by mid-day & took a Bus from Lakkar Bazar for Sarahan. Reached Sarahan by 9.30pm. Straight-way approached Bhimkali Temple Guest House for night-staying. Had foods out-side at Sharma's Hotel. Mind that Temple Guest-House Doors are closed by 10pm.

6/8 - Had a bad dysentery in Sarahan & decided to stay another day here. Wandered the King's (CM's) Palace. Made worship to the Temple.

7/8 - Took snaps of Srikhand Peak - clearly visible behind the Narsinha Temple. Left Sarahan by 10am for Zuri by a local Auto-rickshaw. Later on, arranged a Car for Kalpa from Zuri. I was so weak for the Dysentery & Metrozils. It happens once always to me when I am in tour in India. Reached Kalpa & arranged accomodation in Shivalik Hotel. It's a bad place, badly managed. Checked Rakpa Regency at evening after a short rest & decided to change Hotel tomorrow as we needed to keep my parents here in Kalpa when we would be in Kailash Parikrama.

8/8 - Morning we completed changing of the Hotel & at 10am, we decided to trek for Kalpa Lake for acclimatization. Some Europeans came with us who stayed in the Hotel. Hotel Manager (nice, he was a Bengali fellow - Mr. Sandeep Karar) arranged a Guide who once gone to Kalpa Lake. This whole day fun-trek helped us a lot later as it gave ample fitness course over the day. Night, I spoke to Mr. Surjeet (no. given by Arun) for the Parikrama & came to know Thangi disconnected by Flood & Land-slide - disappointed.

9/8 - Day spent in Rekang Peo. First we approached Jeevan Jyoti Hotel. They directed us to TIC (near Bus Stand). We met here Mr. Sanjeev Negi who agreed to be the Guide for us but advised us to approach DC in DM's office for the Inner-line Permit. We argued as to our understanding it was not required for the Indians. Permit restricted for two reasons as we were told - some trespassers entered Tibet & there was a risk of Death at Charang Pass. So ITBP became rigid to allow any people & recently they returned Foreigners & Indians also allibying on Permit issue. H'ever, we met AC if he could give us any Permit or Circular mentioning that this Area is not prohibited for the Indians. This had another implication to convince Shurting ITBP that we met DM's office for Permission, though he couldn't issue it (as per him he could not issue it), he given the said Circular to show it to the ITBP. However, DC's PA & AC suggested us to go straight keeping Indian ID's. We had our Passports. Next we bargained for the Porters' rate & rate for the Guide with Sanjeev - nice one.

10/8 - Morning 10am we were at Peo to buy food-staffs. We met the Porters - nice young Nepalis'. Checked the Registration Cards. We shared the Loadings. We had our three Sacks with warm Cloths, 3-men tent, 3 sleeping bags, matts etc., we carried from Dubai. H'ever, we started by a Car (shouting 'Durga'-'Durga', my father's favourite) by 12 noon. Reached Moorang at 2pm. Saw huge Land-slide & Flood that disconnected Thangi. Started Trekking from Moorang just by up-riding a straight erected wall of Rocks to cross that Land-slide & flooded Nala over the Top of It. My Wife & Son took it very interestingly & shown their Circustic expertise. True for me & Jayanta also. We learnt how to manage Body-balancing. Later on crossed twice the other Nalas' & reached Lamber by 6pm. Pitched our tents near a drinking water (natural) line. That night we had Rice, Dal, Papad - what else - a Real Picnic. I had a nice sleep in the night.

TIME is up guys - could be continued later. Thanks.

himadventures

First of all congrats for doing this trek but we all are interested to know how you go through ITBP guys. They sent back people and do not allow anyone without permit/permission.

One of the reason for permission things is people shooting video. This is not allowe as this region is very very close to tibet and shooting mountains sharing tibetan border is not a healthy scene for paramilitary.

Well, good job done !!

Pijush Kanti Mondal

Coming to the issues. Let me continue.....

11/8 - Morning Trek started after short Tea-break & snacks. We had a nice Nepali Porter. My son, self & Sanjeev sang 'We shall over-come'. Started by dot 6.30am. This route Lamber to Charang is easy one through out the bank of Shatluj. But as Avid marked, this zone has a tremendous risk of Land-slide & Blasting. People working on the top & blasting the rocks. People trailing down can not see them as Top is cladded with heavy Fog. Take care. Make whistle & pause them to cross such zones. We stopped after crossing a Military-made Bridge, where the route for Kunnu Village separated out. I opened my shirts as these were sweated - just then 3 ITBP jawans (with Uniform & Gun) approached us - they were on their way down to Lamber ITBP Post. Place was close to Shurting Post. H'ever they examined us - the Porters, Guide & advised us to endorse our entries in Shurting Post for further checking. Sanjeev gone literally nervous. Jayanta had never any feelings of it. Suddenly I understood I have to take the onus.

At the post, when we entered, saw the Jawans were enjoying Carom. Total Staffs, at a glance, 9 to 10. One met us on the entry-gate & took us near the camp where his colleagues playing Carom. All were on Civil Dresses - stopped playing as they seen us - tired, already sat on rocks. One of them came to us with a torn-up Logue-book. First, he annouced none could be allowed to cross the C/Pass as their top authorities declaired. Our tries to convince them with the briefings of our meeting with AC in DM's office did not make any sense to them. We tried to prove us very innocent & show our long coveted desire to complete the Parikrama over the Pass. H'ever, very unwillingly, one fellow started checking of the Porters' & Guide's Registration Cards gradually & endorsed it in his torn-up logue-book. He became again very annoyed as four of us failed to show any Permission Paper - probably he believed, we collected the Permit Paper, when he heard, we gone to DM's office. Again we tried to convince them with AC's & DC's PA's version. People melted - Jayanta shown his Votar Card & we shown our Passports. They endorsed the No.s in logue. The real surprise waited next when after all such hassles, they invited us inside their Camp. They briefed why the entry is restricted - they claimed people trespassing Tibet & some are coming without proper gear & unique ID - some are lying. Next they offered us Tea & nice biscuits. I discovered the most-annoyed fellow was a Bengali - tall & dark - his native is Bardwan - his name, if I didn't forget, is Dhananjay. All expressed sorry for the hassles, but they can not help it. I appreciated whole-heartedly because it's their duty & they are meant for that there, in that abandoned places. We spent almost 2-hrs next with them. One fellow was of Allahabad, One of Kashmir - he suggested to visit Vaisnadevi next without fail.

Their Camp-site is very dirty, badly maintained, it apparently shown the audacity of our Govt. to such BSF's who protecting our land from the Invaders. By this write-up I try to mark it to the Govt. officials - when we spend that much in Defence Budget, why we cannot improve the life-style of such young Indians, who are the keys for Indian Defence Mechanism.

My honest suggestion to the following Trekkers in this route - plz be patient, polite, honest to them till the matter took a new professional shape & be resolved - they are doing their duties. Meet TIC - Peo & abide by their advices.

We hugged each other. Dhananjay - like my young brother, came with us for a distance where the steep-rise started. I understood the agony of Sanjeev when he jumped 'Bhole - Shiv, none can stop now to complete the Parikrama'. After a while we reached near the small Govt. Guest House of Charang where we decided to pitch our Tents. We visited Rangrik Monastery next enjoying Coffee altogether. Met also some Jawans at ITBP Post near Monastery. The chief Priest was an old lady - she offered Butter-Tea to all of us. We were very nice each other. Night, we had Rice, nutrella-aloo sabji & Papad. I felt the bondage amongst the Team was growing gradually - nice sign. Slept well.

12/8 - As usual, started trekking around 7am after a short Tea-snack break. At first shot, we started trekking gradually over 15000ft - the Lalanti Pass. On the top, bit of Fog clasped us leading to little bit raining. We enjoyed Tea & Snacks here. Next we started descending. There were no routes - we had to make our own ways & then I felt Sanjeev's expertise. To me to go this Trek without a Guide (who knows the Places) is equal to committing a suicide. Make life pleasurable & the Trek as a Picnic keeping Guide & Porters with you. We crossed some glaciers on the way to come down to the valley again. We crossed again some ice-cold Nalas. As Sanjeev advised, we masked Mustard Oil deep on our feet before crossing such Nalas in Lalanti. These zones are in rain-shadow geographically, but a small odd shower might cause dangerous land-slides & spillage of water in the Nalas. Take care in Monsoon. H'ever, we reached safe Tenting Place at around 3pm.

To be continued .....

himadventures

Arun !
Good to hear that you are from MORANG and I am sure you might be knowing SURJIT NEGI and YOGESH BORAS from THANGI.

I was reading discussion on KK Circuit and feeling happy that now this region has caught eyes of trekkers and very soon we may have more and more people coming to this area. Imagine, life here 10 years back...then no one asks for permits and permissions and ITBP checkpost used to be next to BUS STAND at THANGI.

We used to get down-show out PHOTO ID's and were served even cup of tea !!
)

Life changes....very fast..now no advantage of being Indian...and paper work is required to go ahead.

It is good to see that jeeps are going upto LAMBAR- I think couple of more years for CHARANG !!

infinion

mabrouk , Mr.Pijush on your steadfastness which took you thru the trip.


would you post , if possible , temperature readings at Lalanti pass / Kalpa. what's the highest point and height in meters.

i spent 4 days in Sangla valley ( batseri - Rakchum-chitkul - nagasti ) sept 2006 and attended phulech in Batseri.

Heavenly .


<>
www.infinions.blogspot.com

Pijush Kanti Mondal

Mabrouk for yr interests. Plz chk the Photo Gallery also (named - Pijush Kanti Mondal) to understand the required clothings in this region. Coming to the issues......

13/8 - Last night, weather was bad. Frequent down-pours made us shivering inside our Sleeping Bags. We didn't take risk & arranged our Tents inside the abandoned Lalanti Shade (refer Photos). This day, Morning was clear - but what a chill! My Son almost cried as he gone for mouth-washing at down water-source. Difficult to measure - but temp. varied betwn. 2 to 10degC (Monsoon). As we studied prior to Trek - next two days would be the most challenging days. We headed for the Base Camp - altitude almost 4000mt, at around 7am. The Pass is 5200mt. - the highest one in this route. H'ever, we reached B/camp at around 2pm taking two short Breaks. We made Tea / Coffee on the ways - had Snacks chatting each other. We decided to pitch Tents near some big Rocks, where the 'KITCHEN' written. The Pass was easily seen when we came closer to the camp (refer Photo). We shouted 'Bhole Shiv'.

H'ever, if we look at the body-gestures of our team-mates now at this point -

Porters - I given two of them 'Stopache'. Take required Medicines from Peo clarifying them to return the unused on returning-back. But they were adequately fit.

Sanjeev - Guide - 'No Problem' Guy.

Alpana - my Wife - Was tired in Charang - Lalanti route. She covered well this route Lalanti - B/Camp. Seemed fit.

Showbhik - my Son - looked tired this way Lalanti - B/camp. He covered well last two days.

Jayanta - my B'-in-law - 'No Problem' Guy.

Myself - No problem till now. Took plenty of photos & tips from Sanjeev.

We had lot of Sampa & Tea / Coffee after pitching our tents. Porters started arrangements for cooking. Altogether we started gossiping - sharing our other daily experiences.

Night, we had dinner at 7.30pm. Self was bit tensified!? Didn't sleep well.

14/8 - Woke up in horror at around 4.30am with the big bang - 'BOOM - BOOM' - Land-slides opposite side of the KITCHEN. Hurried out from the tent with Torch (mandatory). Sanjeev was cool. Later he shown me the slided zones. H'ever, interesting was Sanjeev made Suzi-Halwa & made a nice worship facing towards the C/Pass. There was an Idol of Shiva, close to the Kitchen. He bestowed Prasad to the God - later it's distributed amongst us as Break-fast. We heavily loaded with Coffee before we started at 7am. This day we had to reach Chitkul anyway crossing the Pass. Whole day Trekking over the dangerous sliding zones. Need to take special watch & care in monsoons - better to avoid monsoon here.

My suggestion - study the route prior to trek, study other's travelogue - but don't get biased or too much analytical. Always keep belief on your own abilities, instincts & encourage others. The Pass is no doubt awesome - 5200mt, unbelievable - but I never thought it was unreachable. Forget it's altitude - mind your people.

True is that Jayanta reached it first with 3 Porters. My Son reached next alone. My Wife reached with Sanjeev then. & Last, self & other Porter reached with 4-5 Breaks. Sometimes my analytical mind searched for 02!! Sanjeev, my Son & Jayanta were mentionably live to cross the Pass. You know - what happened next - 'Photo Shoots & Bhole Shiv' on the Pass.

Descending was tough. But all we knew it would come with time. Sanjeev never allowed us to make Tea on the way - only short breaks with Sampa & flasked Tea. Sanjeev shown his expertise again. He trailed last of the team. His task was to alert Team trailing down from the Rocks - which seemed to be fallen down. It doesn't happen in June or Sept. Monsoon needs some extra caution here.

My intention was to stay night in Chitkul when we reached at 4.30pm. Shoes of my wife & Son completely torn-up. We managed these with shoes' straps. Self got 3-4 Blisters in feet. Sanjeev disagreed - next day was the Independence Day. He suggested to spend altogether in Peo. CM was coming there & he also wanted to meet him on behalf on Peo-TIC to brief him the problem accrued by the Inner Line Permits.

Last Bus took the tired conquerors to Sangla first at 7.30pm. On the way, we saw the disasters - was that Khorsa (?), entire Apple Orchard vanished, the Bridge thrown at the side mutilated & 8 to 9 Tents of Kinnaur Camps flown out to the heavy current of the river as water spilled over caused by sudden Ice-melting & Land-slides.

We changed at Sangla. The hired car took us at Peo at 9.30pm. I wore Sanjeev's Blazer as mine was rained out. We exchanged our belongings, tents, sacks etc. I rang my father in Kalpa (Rakpa Regency) to book our rooms as we were coming back in Kalpa. We had dinner together & reached Kalpa 11.30pm.

15/8 - My son got fever - real cause was hectic trekking. We informed Sanjeev not to come Peo to celebrate Independence Day there. Spent the day with Parents taking rest. Showbhik recovered at afternoon.

16/8 - We reached Rampur by Bus at 4pm leaving Kalpa at 11am. On the way, at Peo (to change Bus), we returned our unused Medicines & withdrawn some cash from ATM. We stayed Shatluj Guest House near the Bus-stand. Windows had only option to show the gorgeous Shatluj.

17/8 - We left Rampur for Kalka at 10am. We changed Bus once at Simla & reached Kalka Station for Kalka Mail to Howrah at around 9.30pm. Mail was on right time.


-- END of the Show --

Thanks & Regards,

Pijush

karnail

Excellent and informative.

__________________
http://karnail.blogspot.com/

Pijush Kanti Mondal

http://www.indiamike.com/photopost/s...0/ppuser/23518

You may please click on this Link to get Photos over here.

Regards,

Pijush

AvidTrekker

Nice pics and very clear photos !!!

Keep it up !!!

Can you answer the query about who "checked" the "permits" which were "not" issued by Rekong Peo?

To my understanding Indians DO NOT require ILPs to cross Charang La

__________________
The Universe is an ellipsoid?... or a Spheroid?? If the sphere smiles... it becomes an ellipse. This IS Creation.

landoormama

You are right Avid , Indians do not need a permit in Himachal .I dont know about crossing the Barasu Pass though .
on the way From Thangi to Charang @ the ITBP check post they did asked me for a permit ..but I did have to explain and they let me off

Pijush Kanti Mondal

It's true. TIC-Peo & DM's office both informed me as I met them for the sake of Trek preparation. In fact DM's office has the Circular, that Zone is not prohibited to Indians. So, the office cannot issue permit for the Indians.

Still ITBP-Shurting is returning the Indians back. They claimed, they have Instructions from their Authorities to return back all if Trekking is tried without Permit (to be issued by Peo DM's office) after the Shurting Check-Post or the Rangrik Monastery. It's not easy & wise also to demand cross-checking of the Instructions from their Authorities at that Point.

Returned Indian Trekkers later met DM's office & registered complaints - as agreed by concerns of DM's office. Recent situation is very unprofessional like our so many Public Relation cases.

As I felt ITBP doesn't want to take any risk or responsibilities if any mishap or trespassing happened in trekking enroute there. I don't know if something happened wrong there recently or their resources to control trespassing, if any.

To me, better to keep your unique ID in this route till the situation gets a systematic shape & of course meet TIC-Peo & DM's office before you proceed for the Trek. Try to explain your perceptions very patiently to the ITBP - Shurting.