My Everest basecamp Trek June1 - june 10, 2009

Pradeep Nayak

Dear friends

I am back from Everest base camp trek. It was a nice experience. The route is Kathmandu to Lukla by flight – Namche Bazaar – Pangboche – Tyangboche – Thukla – Lebuche – Goraksep – Kalapatthar& Back, basecamp and back – Back to Pangboche – Namche bazaar – Lukla – Kathmandu (by flight).

We were fit. So, tried a different route. Namche Bazaar – Thame – Lungden – Gokyo. Actually we were supposed to cross Renjo La (before Gokyo) and Cho La to reach Lebuche. But Renjo La was filled with snow. Climbed up to the beautiful Cho-Relmo (Twin Lakes) and lost our way to Renjo La. Came back to the hut in Lungden. Wanted to try next day, but weather was bad. So returned back to Khomjung (Edmund Hilary has set up school and Hospital in this village. The most beautiful peak of the area Ama Dublum is facing the village. Also there is a skull of Yeti(!) kept inside a monastery here.). From there we trekked on the regular path.

Although lots of trekkers visit Kalapatthar, it’s not a moderate trek. Its tough and many people (mostly women) complain headache and breathlessness. However, we walked the trek in 9 days – in spite of three days extra time taken in the other route. So came back to Kathmandu three days earlier than the scheduled date. Could have stayed anywhere in the route, but the food was awfully expensive – budget went weary.

So the trek is open for another trip – through the other route.

Memorable things:
The10 sitter aero plane ride. The best thing about it was you see the mountains from the above.

Meeting with actually Tibetan traders who cross the Nangpa La – another Tibet Nepal silk route; and trade silk, carpets, wood, Yaks and Chinese goods from footwear to cigarette in Namche Bazar. They carry back rice, pulses, spices, etc. Actually one can trek up to Nangpa La and see a Tibetan township across the boarder! (Will definitely go there when I go the next time)

Met one 50 year old Sherpa in Thame (his fingers are beaten off by snow) who has cleared the summits of all the 8000 + meter peaks!

Paying 150 rupees (NC) for one chapatti.

And of course observing the 8850 meter peak sitting on the top of Kalapatthar.

This time we went to Varanasi by train (unlike Gorakhpur last time). From there took bus to boarder. It was also an experience because near Azamgarh we were cyclone hit in the middle of the night. At least 15 – 20 trees and three – four electric poles might have fallen on the road. Helped the brave driver and conductor to cross the area.

Some suggestions for the Indian trekkers:
1. The plane ticket for Kathmandu - Lukla is 1000 NR more for Indian nationals contrary to what is advertised in the net.

2. The passes into Sagarmatha national Park costs 100NR per person for Indian nationals unlike other countries which costs 1000NR.

deky

Great, where can we see some pics? How much was the total cost?

shahronakm

Thanks for the trip report.

Ronak.

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stephan

150 rupees for one chapatti! Oh my, was all the food a long the trek that price? I hear its pricy but wow. We are planning to go there November - December 2009 for a month. Any advice on places you stayed/ate etc.? Do things get more costly the higher you get?
Thank you...

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Pradeep Nayak

The views were awesome. Please check my friend Ambrish Beniwal's blog for snaps.

http://ambrish-beniwal.blogspot.com/

Actually June is considered off-season. November is the peak of the season. You might have to spend more than double during that time!

In namche Bazar I satayed in Yak Hotel. But there are many hotels. All of them charge the same. About food, you can get variety there.

sks551

Hi Pradeep,
Did you plan the trip yourself?
I am thinking about doing the same trip next year but not sure if I should go with a travel agency or plan my own trip. The good thing about going with a travel agency is that they will worry about all the logistics. However, the western travel agencies are quite expansive. A friend of mine suggested that I should be able to organise the trip myself. He suggested that I should book a flight to Kathmandu and then book a local guide and porters while I am at Kathmandu.
Can you get all the food and bottled drinks along the trekking route? The price for a chapatti (Rs 100) seems too expansive even in western currency. I wonder how much a bowl of rice would cost!!

Pradeep Nayak

Hi
I planned it myself only. You can absolutely plan your own trip. Take a lonely planet book and pin down a hotel in Katmandu according to your budget. The hotel guys will help you with obtaing the trekking permit and plane ticket to Lukla.

You see I arrived in Kathmandu on Saturday. Saturday is a public holiday. But the hotel guy (I stayed in Khangsar Guesthouse in Thamel)arranged my permit that day only! Also he booked my plane ticket.

Throughout the route there are cottages. So you can travel as light as possible. About hiring a guide you can do it in Lukla. That will save you the guide's flight cost. Also you'll get people who'll be your guide-cum-porter. So no need to take extra porters.

Food is costly indeed. A bowl of rice will cost you Rs 250 NR to Rs 450 NR as you go closer to Kalapatthar. The cost of food at Gorakshep is maximum. But the room rent is Rs. 200/- nr fixed.

The best thing about planning a trip for yourself is your schedule becomes flexible. If you are a moderately good walker you can do the trip (from Kathmandu back to Kathmandu) in 9 days!

Kathmandu -Namche Bazar -Tyangboche -Lebuche -Gorakshep (walk upto Basecamp and back to Gorakshep that day only)- Climb Kalapatthar next day and walk back to Pangboche - Namche bazar (or Khomjung) - Lukla - Kathmandu.

If you have extra 3 - 4 days you can try the Gokyo route. Also you can trek upto Island peak basecamp and back.

if you are planning in the month of June weather is the only uncertain thing. But round tickets from Kathmandu to Lukla are open tickets. So when arrive back in Lukla you report the respective air service office. They will confirm your journey next morning.

So plan your trip yourself and enjoy the freedom.

Cheers

sks551

Thanks Pradeep for the advice.
How many of you travelled in the same group?
Would you recommend travelling alone with a guide/porter? I think I’ll be travelling alone; I have failed to convince my wife to travel with me. As you would know it is not every body’s cup of tea to trek upto Everest base camp.
I am fairly fit and love trekking. Did you get any altitude sickness while trekking at such a high altitude? Did you go up to the base camp? I would love to see the Khumbhu Icefall from close quarter.
What sort of luggage/personal belonging did you carry? Did you carry your own sleeping bag or sleeping mat to sleep on?
I have been thinking about this trip for a while and I am fairly sure that I’ll do this trek next year.

Pradeep Nayak

We were only two - me and my friend Ambrish. met many trekkers (mind you it was off-season) and met a few lone trekkers as well!

You can travel alone fine. About altitude sickness, so far I have trekked quite a few 5000meter+ passes, but yet to get any. In this trek I found some people (mostly women)suffered from fatigue rather than altitude sichness. However, caution is always good. Always acclamatise yourself - i.e., after reaching a new place, instead of relaxing in your room roam around for some time, climb some nearby hill, do photography, etc. before having supper. Walk slow and take frequent short pauses while climbing a high pass. (this is very important). And my experience is never take long breaks while climbing. Your body will go to a denial mode.

About sleeping bag and mat, no need to carry. The cottage owners provide bed and blankets (sometimes blankets might be smelly.)

Although its a tough trek, I have seen many people even in their 60s trekking this route. You should convince your wife. Its a romantic trek. You'll certainly miss her. Tell her since you're not carrying any luggage you can carry her (hi..hi). (She can Horseride - they are available enroute)

Pradeep Nayak

Base camp is only two hours from Gorekshep. Gorekshep itself is inside the Kumbhu icefall region! If you trek in early May you can meet a number of expedition people.

shmeegol

hey!everest base camp sounded amazing... my brother and i are both keen on it...does it require any previous official mountaineering and trekking course?i know obviously a certain amount of physiacl fitness is needed but anything official or particular?also,which part of the yr is the ideal time to go for it?i tried checking this all online elsewhere but got bombarded with too much info and thoroughly confused so tgt its better to ask sumone who's been there-done that!

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sks551

Thanks Pradeep for the excellent advice on Base camp trekking.

I have done a lot of research on this trek and your advice is also helping and encouraging me to do the trek I wanted to do for last few years. To tell you the truth I wanted to go further like up to Camp1 but due to lack of ice climbing experience I will not be able go there.
Currently I am planning to the Char Dham trip and concentrating on that planning.
We will be visiting Char Dham as well as Gaumukh this year. This will give us some experience of high altitude trekking.

Do you mind if I keep your name in my buddy list? I might be contacting you again for more advice on base camp trekking.

Thanks for the advice so far.

Santanu Das

Pradeep,
Nice report.
I am going there in Sept-October. Already got Kathmandu to Lukla flight ticket for 27th Sept in my hand.
I think I need to carry more cash after reading yr mail. The food seems really expensive. What were the price of a meal system Daal-Bhaat in different places ?

Santanu Das

sks551,

When you are going all the way to Gaumukh & you love trekking its better to cover Tapovan. The view improves dramatically & its just one day more of trekking.I am sure your wife would also thank you for that, getting such a view with that little extra walk...you wont get anywhere else. You are at the base of Shivling (~6000m) at Tapovan, you are so near that you have to crane your neck to see the peak & as if you can just walk upto the peak!!!! Its white mountain. Just opposite to you, across the Gaumukh glacier You have lovely view of Bhagirathi 1 ,2, 3.(Again white mountains) Just too good.

sks551

Thanks Santanu,
I am so pleased that you will be visiting the base camp this year.
Please let me know how everything went after your return.
If you can then please let me know the name of the guide and porter you used during your trekking.

As I said this year we are doing the Char Dham and Gaumukh.
Initially we wanted to go up to Tapovan but our short timescale not going to allow us to go up to Tapovan.
We are spending 11 days from Haridwar to complete our Char Dham and Gaumukh trip and then travel to Kolkata for rest of our holiday.
I have noticed that you are from New Alipur which is not too far away from where we will be visiting next.

Like Pradeep, please give us a feedback or email me with your trek experience.
Thanks