Ladakh treks & various currencies? (euros, visas, ...)

ploma

Hello!

I'm planning my next trip to Ladakh for the beginning of August arriving from Kullu valley by the road and leaving it by plane (jetairways had recently anounced another flight from Leh to Delhi, so now there's some more chances to get a flight!).

I've been in India 4 times before but never in Ladakh so i've some questions about this region.

1- I'm in contact with some indian friends and they told me that it isn't necessary to get any permit or special visa to visit Ladakh. But on my "old" guidebook (from 97) it's said that you need it. Do i have to believe my friends (i would like to) and don't think about permits? or i'll have to get one in, i.e., Manali? in that case can you tell me where, how long it takes and what do I need.

2- In 2003 i've been travelling in HP, Rajasthan, Delhi etc... using only euros, I live in Barcelona so now i don't need to change to dollars and i can go straight to the euro. Do you think it will be easy to be in Ladakh without dollars only some rupees and euros. (yes i've a Credit Card but i have never used it travelling, and I would like to keep that way).

Just i was thinking in changing money or paying for a trek... In kullu last time was fine so i guess Leh would be the same but... everything is possible in India!!!.

Maybe i'm asking to much but thank you for the replies,

ploma

(in india -> uribaba)

AllanM

Your friends are correct about the permit issue. As long as you don't get too close to the border, no permits are required(my personal experience, yours my differ).

I was in Leh last year and SBI was changing Euros there. I don't know how favorable the exchange rate was though as I was changing U.S. dollars and didn't check rates for the Euro.

One option to consider is to change your Euros in Manali. You will probably get a more favorable exchange rate there and you will not have to worry about whether you can change them in Leh or not.

__________________
Me fail English? That's unpossible!--Ralph Wiggum

AvidTrekker

ploma, you will require an Inner Line permit ONLY if you want to visit Tso Moriri near the Tibet Border or want to cross (trekking on foot) over the Parang La (5580m)into Kibber (HP... district Spiti). These permits are freely issued for a fee of maybe Rs 100 at the District Magistrate's office at Leh. Keep PP size photos handy. Issued in one hour(maybe two). Touts outside the DM's office also get this done for a small fee of rs 100. Saves your time.

You don't require a permit to travel to Leh by air or by road. It is now open for all.

__________________
The Universe is an ellipsoid?... or a Spheroid?? If the sphere smiles... it becomes an ellipse. This IS Creation.

Jeroen

Leh now has a few ATMs, which work out cheapest to get cash depending on the rules of your bank (my Dutch bank charges me nothing for ATM use across the globe, so I get bank mid-rates which is better than any exchange office or bank counter). Still, I carry along a wad of Rs just in case.

__________________
'To see the world in a grain of sand; and heaven in a wild flower; to hold infinity in the palm of your hand; and eternity in an hour'

maree

Hi Jeroen.... are you in Leh now? Can you definitely confirm the existence of working ATMs there? And if so, which banks? There was a thread a while back where we were trying to establish whether it was true or not. Hope so as i'll be there two weeks from today... yay!

ploma

Hey! great!!!!!

thanx for the quick reply to my questions. So no permit/special visa and it seems i'll go again to India only with euros, what a diference with my first trip. Jeroen, I'll check with my bank about the free comission in my credit card... it sounds nice!

I'm reading some posts about Ladakh but nowadays I still don't know exactly what to do. I'll be there in mid August and, so original, i would like to do some nice trek. The point is that maybe i'll meet there two friends who have trekked few times and they are not really fit. In my case i use to trek on the Pirineus in in the south of France where the highest peak is 3.404meters... and i have just done the gangotri, the Triund and the manikaran/kirganga "treks" in india by my own.

Which trek will you suggest?

Thanks again,

ploma

Jeroen

Hi Maree - I was talking to a traveller yesterday who had just spent a few weeks in Ladakh who told me there were 2 ATMs and he used one (the SBI) which worked fine.

This is confirmed by a quick peek at SBI's ATM locator:
http://www.statebankofindia.com/bran...mlocations.asp

Hi Ploma - what I use in ATMS is not a credit card (for which you pay the credit card company quite a lot to get cash from an ATM) but a debit card, a card that directly gets the cash from my current account, with a 4-digit PIN code. There's a maximum you can take out: 15,000Rs is my limit per day, which gets me a long way in India. No credit card company involved. I only use ATMs of large banks like SBI (with the funny yoni logo) - just in case something goes wrong and the machine eats my card on a Friday afternoon and I have to wait till Monday to reclaim it
In my case (the Dutch Rabobank) all transfers are free worldwide, a few years ago they stiull charged 2EUR per transaction, but that's been scrapped. The local banks that operate the ATMs never charge any costs, so all you pay is the exchange rate - and I understand that in the case of ATM use this is always determined by the banking middle rate (which is halfway the average selling and buying price of the international money markets that day) so you're getting a slightly better deal than at exchange booths which set their own selling price often according to local competition.
Still, the ATM power may go down or you may lose the card, so always take some cash/TCs or a credit card as backup in remote places like this.

AvidTrekker

Hola ploma,

How much are you planning to trek ?? Any preferences ? Do you like green areas or deserts like Ladakh ? How many days ? Upto what altitude? In Ladakh, if you fly in ... you will have to spend AT LEAST three days just to acclimatize. Read about it in the acclimatization thread

Other trek and Ladakh related matters are :

http://www.indiamike.com/india/show...mp;pagenumber=1

http://www.indiamike.com/india/show...37481#post37481

I have just sent a PM to Jeroen about a 10-day "village-to-village" trek from Sarahaan to Saangla. (he won't have to carry a tent) From there going to Kaza, Kibber ( the Buddhist sites of Spiti ) and ultimately bus ride to Leh. Its not in Ladakh, but it ends up in Ladakh. If you wish I could post it here, cuz there is nothing really "private" in the message (Jeroen.... would you mind? me think not .... there's only trek-itinerary in the message)

Another point : If you want to do the really GOOD treks, be prepared to hire guides and/or porters. India does not have the equivalent of "do-it-yourself" tea-house treks as in Nepal. (there are some .... like the example I am threatening to post but not many ... maybe five or so ... )

State your preference. I can suggest some treks. When you are in Delhi, I can suggest you some good trekking books to buy.

HAPPY TREKKING ! HAPPY INDIA TRAVELLING !!

maree

Thanks for that info, Jeroen... much appreciated.

ploma

Thanks Jeroen and AvidTrekker

I've checked with my bank here in Barcelona and they said that's completely impossible to have this conditions in Spain... what a pity! anyway it's fine enough to travel just with euros.

we will arrive to Leh from Kullu valley so aclimatization won't be that hard as if we flight in. I tried to check the links you posted but I couldn't, something is wrong with the adress.

I don't have any special preferences in treks just i love wildlife and nature and i try to avoid the urban areas and the crowds and i try to walk throught rural or inhabited zones. I don't care if it's the trek arrives to a special altitude if the landscape is nicer i would choose a lower one.

I was thinking in 5 days maximum because as is my first time in ladakh i would try to explore diferents valleys if i have time so maybe i can do 2 shorts treks in order to visit diferents valleys...

Once i'll be there i'll check the options but if i can have some feedback from other travellers i'll take it in mind on my decisions.

Today is st. Joan's eve which in my country is like diwali in India, fireworks all over the sky!!!!

Have fun!

ploma

AvidTrekker

Go thru LP's "Trekking in the Indian Himalaya" 2003 edn ..... it gives you a good idea of many five day treks all over the Indian Himalaya. Make a choice of two or three treks. After this, if you have any detailed Q's I will be happy to answer.

Jeroen

Sure, Avid, here it is:

(I'm sure you'll cut-and-repaste it into the appropriate Trekking & Hiking section of IndiaMike, if/once that's up and running)

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The Details :Trekking upto Kaza via Sangla/Peo
At Sarahan stay INSIDE the Bheemakaali temple rooms. They are simply LOVELY.

The Sarahan to Sangla 10 day route: can compress to 7 days after talking to locals. all stay at Forest rest Houses or village schools or community buildings (if no Rest House)

Day 1 : Sarahan(2165m) to Chaura(1800m) 13km
............1st 3 km along the asphalt rd to Jeori. Turn right to join the old Hindustan-Tibet Road (now in disuse).Traverse around the semi circular bowl of Badhal. Go to Chaura Rest House.

If you want an adventurous route, go via the uphill route of Manotidhar. An ill-kept forest path winds thru thick forests n deep valleys by-passing Chaura (the 2nd stage) and ending at Tranda (3rd stg). This route offers greater chance of spotting the wild life of this area ... viz.black bear, marten, leopard,musk-deer and fox, also two beaut pheasants. (monal n Western horned tragopan) descend down the kandlu to reach Chaura rest house, a 100 yr old rest house. Take a (one day)guide for this forest route.

Day 2 : Chaura (1800m) to Tranda (2240m) 9 km
............first comes the Saundhar ridge with the first views of the Kinnaur Kailash on the old HT rd. Legend has it a huge rock above housed a serpent who devoured ppl. Children are now playing at this dreaded place. Walk to Tranda rest house.

Day 3 : Tranda (2240m) to Ponda (1800m) 8 km
............a short walk to another historic RH (rest house) Tip : ask for the RH log book. You will be surprised at the 100 yr old entries!! All places are spposed to advance book. a small tip (100 rs maybe) does the trick. The Forest RH keeper also will cook and serve u basic food. (maybe seprate pymt).

Day 4 : Ponda(1800m) to Nichar (2200m) 8km
............another 8 km along motor road thru dense deodar forest belonging to Sungra Maheshwar temple. Nichar with its shaded walks and a beaut temple of Usha devi, makes one wait a while.

Day 5 : Nichar(2200m) to Panvi(2200m) 10km
............ mostly level walk alternating thru fields n forests. No RH here. Sleep in the village school or some community rest house. Dont worry you will get some roof over ur head!

Day 6 : Panvi (2200m) to Choltu (1780m) 16 km
............ via Ramni village

Day 7 : Choltu (1780m) to Kilba (2025m) 8km
............another beaut old FRH in Kilba

Day 8 : Kilba(2025m) to Sapni (2650m) 11km
............ there are 2 options. One via Karcham. Better one via small village of Kanai.(2300m) thru superb pine and deodar forest
No RH here. Sleep in school or some such place.

Day 9 : Sapni (2650m) to Shong(2660m)
...........via Brua village. Again school bldg or community bldg. Near the school is one of the largest deodar trees, 12m in girth. Gerard in 1821 said it was less than 10m.

Day 10 : Shong(2660m) to Sangla (2650m) 10 km
........... The area called Limoden has an even bigger deodar tree than Shong. Walk to sangla. Instead of Sangla stay at Rakchham or Chhitkul (road jeeps buses avlbl)

Day 11 see Sangla, Rakcham, Chitkul

Day 12, 13, 14: bus to Rekong Peo. At Peo, get Inner line permit for journey btwn Jangi and Sumdo. (keep photos handy) Stay two days at higher elevations of Kalpa. Magnifiq views of Kinnaur Kailash.

Day 15, 16, 17 : bus to Kaza. Stay and explore region.

Day 18 :Kaza to Manali by bus

I have suggested trek details from this book by Deepak Sanan and Dhanu Swadi. if you are in delhi just buy it. see pages 209 n 248. the book :

http://www.indusbooks.com/bookdetai...bookid=IN-01027

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(Jeroen's comments:
1) As the route more or less follows the modern road, you can also do sections of this trip, shortening the length... I hear Nicha to Kilba is the nicest bit... and I also hear that many of the RHs have these ancient guestbooks.
2) the book mentioned above is available for 400Rs in both Dehra Dun and Shimla... it's pretty good though the maps are basic.)

ploma

Thank you so much guys!

I'll print your posts and then in Ladakh i'll check what i'll do. As i've imagined there's a lots of things to do there and i would like to visit rajasthan as always so i'll have to choose... and i prefer to do it there.

Again thanks so much for your replies and suggestions about Ladakh.

Ah! i love thankas and i bought some of them in Manali and in Dharamsala but i'll like to know if, as i think, i can find more in Ladakh and if the prices are better than in HP. if anybody knows...

I'll keep on IM checking for more nice info about Ladakh (places, restaurants, hotels, …) i've had a big surprise discovering this site. Well done for all it's easy to see that if IM works is mainly because of the people who is writting here.

ens veiem,

ploma