Ladakh - Lungser Kangri or Chhamser Kangri

Tinde · Mar 11th, 2006, 16:33

Hi!

I would like to get some information on climbing either Chhamser Kangri or Lungser Cangri. Is it a difficult climb? How many days do I need (not counting the days to acclimatize in Leh)? And how late in the year is it possible to climb these peaks?
And I would be very happy to get some information about good tour-operators that may help me organize this trip. Not international expensive ones, but local based indians. Preferably located in Leh.

Thanks!

kolobar · Mar 12th, 2006, 15:17

As far as I know both Kangris are in restricted area. Not restricted as areas like Rupshu, Nubra, Pagong, Dha Hanu for which you can obtain permit but restricted in a sense that foreigners are not allowed to go. Restricted area starts east of Tso Moriri and even indian climbing parties must obtain special permit from the army to climb there. So beside all red tape needed to obtain regular climbing permit there must be a lot of additional hassle if you can get one at all - perhaps by joining an indian climbing party.
What comes to mind is illegal ascent as became regular practise on Stok Kangri and Kang Yaze. But you should be aware that "illegal" climbs to these two peaks seems to be tolerated since even local agencies dont mind climbing it without a permit. On the other hand if you climb in such a sensitive area you may get in trouble. ITBP post is not far - just before Korzok and they can admire your climbing skills through good binoculars (though looking from Tso Moriri east shore it seems it is just a walk - rough but no climbing involved).
For more info you can check here: namgial@wildeastadventure.com

Tinde · Mar 12th, 2006, 16:05

Both peaks are listed on IMF's webpages as open peaks. See indmount.org, Climbing -> Peaks -> Open peaks -> Jammu & Kashmir. Chhamser Kangri = #11 and Lungser = #28.

kolobar · Mar 12th, 2006, 17:26

Thanks for the link. I noted that for climbing peaks in restricted areas only joint expeditions (half foreign, half indian) are allowed.
What I wrote in my previous post is based on a talk with the leader of Bengal team climbing one of the Kangris few years ago and many visits to the Rupshu area. For accurate and reliable information check with Namgyal from Wild East Adventure based in Leh.

kaushaldesai · Mar 15th, 2006, 16:59

hi tinde

Both Chamsher and Lungser are open peaks. plan for 5-6 days on the climb ie not counting the no of acclamatization days in leh or in karzok ...

both the climbs are non technical and both are above 6000 mts.

cheers

kaushal
www.above14000ft.com

kaushaldesai · Mar 15th, 2006, 17:02

the ideal time to climb either of these peaks is between July and September ... after that it starts getting too cold ...

give me a shout if u need some help with the organising..

darshan mayginnes · Apr 23rd, 2006, 07:00

would like to do this climb along with two others this summer. thanks kaushaldesai....how can you assist us? we will arrive in good shape and acclamatized. how long in advance do we need permits are they even needed?
tell me more......

Mar 12th, 2006, 16:05	#3
Tinde Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Norway Posts: 2	IMF, open peaks Both peaks are listed on IMF's webpages as open peaks. See indmount.org, Climbing -> Peaks -> Open peaks -> Jammu & Kashmir. Chhamser Kangri = #11 and Lungser = #28.

Mar 12th, 2006, 17:26	#4
kolobar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: beside a lake Posts: 155	open & restricted? Thanks for the link. I noted that for climbing peaks in restricted areas only joint expeditions (half foreign, half indian) are allowed. What I wrote in my previous post is based on a talk with the leader of Bengal team climbing one of the Kangris few years ago and many visits to the Rupshu area. For accurate and reliable information check with Namgyal from Wild East Adventure based in Leh.

Apr 23rd, 2006, 07:00	#7
darshan mayginnes Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: mendocino, california Posts: 1	lungser kangri would like to do this climb along with two others this summer. thanks kaushaldesai....how can you assist us? we will arrive in good shape and acclamatized. how long in advance do we need permits are they even needed? tell me more......

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Mar 11th, 2006, 16:33	#1
Tinde Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Norway Posts: 2	Ladakh - Lungser Kangri or Chhamser Kangri Hi! I would like to get some information on climbing either Chhamser Kangri or Lungser Cangri. Is it a difficult climb? How many days do I need (not counting the days to acclimatize in Leh)? And how late in the year is it possible to climb these peaks? And I would be very happy to get some information about good tour-operators that may help me organize this trip. Not international expensive ones, but local based indians. Preferably located in Leh. Thanks!

Mar 12th, 2006, 15:17	#2
kolobar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: beside a lake Posts: 155	restricted area As far as I know both Kangris are in restricted area. Not restricted as areas like Rupshu, Nubra, Pagong, Dha Hanu for which you can obtain permit but restricted in a sense that foreigners are not allowed to go. Restricted area starts east of Tso Moriri and even indian climbing parties must obtain special permit from the army to climb there. So beside all red tape needed to obtain regular climbing permit there must be a lot of additional hassle if you can get one at all - perhaps by joining an indian climbing party. What comes to mind is illegal ascent as became regular practise on Stok Kangri and Kang Yaze. But you should be aware that "illegal" climbs to these two peaks seems to be tolerated since even local agencies dont mind climbing it without a permit. On the other hand if you climb in such a sensitive area you may get in trouble. ITBP post is not far - just before Korzok and they can admire your climbing skills through good binoculars (though looking from Tso Moriri east shore it seems it is just a walk - rough but no climbing involved). For more info you can check here: namgial@wildeastadventure.com

Mar 15th, 2006, 16:59	#5
kaushaldesai Account Closed Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Manali Posts: 31	hi tinde Both Chamsher and Lungser are open peaks. plan for 5-6 days on the climb ie not counting the no of acclamatization days in leh or in karzok ... both the climbs are non technical and both are above 6000 mts. cheers kaushal www.above14000ft.com

Mar 15th, 2006, 17:02	#6
kaushaldesai Account Closed Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Manali Posts: 31	the ideal time to climb either of these peaks is between July and September ... after that it starts getting too cold ... give me a shout if u need some help with the organising..

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