Har ki Doon & Borasu Pass trek

lucky

Hi! Rahul

Thanks for everything. Yeah I agree that the mountain guides and porters are the mountain's kin. They relate to the hills like we never can. For us it is an opportunity for quietude, solace, ecology, adventure.......a reality outside of us. Extant. For these guys it is their livelihood. They respect the hill deity as life giver, sustainer..... But would they ever romance a hill? The answer has eluded me till date. Everytime I head for the hills I try getting to the root of it. But... let's hope this time. Paradoxically though, I don't want to know the answer!

ciao
Lucky

lonelyaztec

I really miss these delicacies.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Aztec

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AvidTrekker

Are they not available in Bangalore?

Ohhh... you mean the ones garnished with snowflakes...

Why don't you join us.... we are leaving on the 12th to Pin Parvati Pass

Will give you a varied menu.... different versions of maggi every day

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lucky

Hi

I'm back from Borasu Pass trek. It was an exhilirating trek to say the least. We did the trek with the help of Har-ki-doon protection and mountaineering association. The group is based in Sankri. The trek started at sankri as the road to Taluka was blocked by huge landslides.

Day1 Sankri to Taluka (10-12 Km, 6-7 hrs) Except for the landslides, it is an even walk through a broad trek. Taluka wore a deserted look. We camped by the forest bungalow.

Day2 Taluka-Dhatmeer-Gangwar-seema (18-20 Km's, 11 hrs) The old trek from Taluka to Seema which used to go along the river (Borasu gad) had vanished. We had to take a long detour through Dhatmeer and Gangwar. Before Dhatmeer there was one place where descent was like getting into a well. It will be a while before villagers make this alternate route trek worthy. Yes It is the gram panchayats of four villages which have taken up the responsibility of making these routes. The forest guys have fled the scene and instead of helping out the stranded villagers, imposed Rs 8.0 lac fine on the gram sabha (comprising the panchayats of four villages Taluka, Osla, Dhatmeer, Puani). The villagers are defiant and in no mood to relent. It was visible from the "Noble Gel" sticks (dynamite) sticks they were carrying. The road shall be made. Regardless of the park officials and their fiats.
We had a sort of reunion at Dhatmeer with our porter; Kirti, who accompanied us in 1999 to HKD.
Dhatmeer was almost midway. from here 4 km's to Gangwar and then 5 more to Seema. It was 7 in the evening bythe time we reached Seema/Osla Forest rest house.
Gangwar to seema the trek runs along Borasu Gad. The river was visibly swollen this time. Wild flowers were in profusion. I could gather exactly 25 types of them. A more trained eye could have spotted some more.

It rained quite heavily in the night. Then it cleared out. The stars were out immediately after.

Day3 Osla to HKD (13 km, 7-8 hrs, 2800M to 3650M) This is the day with Max altitude gain. Though the trek is an ever rising ramp, the flowery resplendance soothes the ruffled senses and the prickly sun. The wild growth was more than six feet tall at places. The slopes were all bedecked with small sun flower and one purple variety.
Reached HKD at 3 in the AN. Started to rain by 4. What a down pour. And it lasted for good three hours. And then silence again. HKD was the same serene place as I had seen 6 years back. Stream coming from Jaundhar Glacier was visible in the valley opposite. As per the Chowkidar of the forest bungalow, the glacier had receeded by 4-5 km's in last 20 years.

Day4 HKD to Ratta-tho (Ratta means red and tho is stone in local parlance, so Ratta-tho is Lal Pathar, red stone) 3650 M to 4000 M, 4-5 km's, 2-3 hrs.
Most gentle walk along Borasu gad. On the way is the Maninda tal (Written Morinda tal on some itin's). There was a shepherd camp there. They offerred tea which we greatfully accepted. Here two rocks obstruct the course of Borasu Gad and Maninda tal is formed. Not more than 20 M across. This is also the end of tree line. Small juniper bush, Yellow flowerettes (Doodh phool) merrily swayed. Another two Km's and we were at Ratta Tho. Hardly 12.00 noon.
Lazed about in tents and under the sun. Shepherds were still there. Borasu peaks were now visible from here.

Day 5 Ratta tho to Sauni Bhera(Sauni from Sawan, Bhera from bher(sheep). At this place sheep come only in the month of Sawan, that's why Sauni-Bhera!) 4-5 Km's, 5 hrs, 4000 M to 4500M. Initially it was ok. But then suddenly we hit a boulder field. And sfter that no let up. Boulders boulders and more boulders. Continuous vigil on your feet gives you servicle pain. After three hours of slog we reached Sauni Bhera. A cute little meadow in which Borasu gad spreads like a hundred arms and then recollects before flowing down. Borasu peaks were towering before us. On one side was the way to Gibson pass, which leads to the same glacier, Jupkia on the other side. Checked up with our guides, Chandan singh rana and Ram Lal and they told that the next day we have to camp on the base of the pass. The base was visible. It was a steep climb over boulders and some scree. We quietly braced ourselves for the next day. Everyone was breathing normal, ealting normal. So far so good.

The day was spent merrimaking and lazing about. The small puddles of water here and there reflected all the peaks around. Clicked some shots.

Day 6 Sauni-Bhera to Lam-jhoonga (2 Km's, 4500M to 4900M, 2 hrs) Before setting off I casually asked Ram Lal "Does Lam-jhoonga too mean something?" Pat came the reply "Of course! Lam is Long (As in Lam-khaga), and Jhoonga is moustache!!!!!!!!!! Therefore Lam-jhoonga is long-moustache. And then he actually showed me how. Looking towards the Borasu peaks, I could see a formation like a face in the middle and two moraine fields running laft and right were like moustaches. On one of the moustaches we are to camp! Precarious proposition this!
But moustache it was. We were there in two hours and there was this merciless sun beating down on us. We lay scattered on the boulders the whole day. Singing, laughing, cursing sometiomes.
Looking back I guess that From HKD to Lamjhoonga one day can be saved. I'll say don't stop at Ratta-tho and reach Sauni-Bhera in one day. We could have made it by three in the AN but we were not sure about the distances and the terrain. But then on the otherside, the gain of a day is loss of leisure.
Lamjhoonga has barely enough space for four five tents. Ten of us had to squeeze in two four men tents. It was tough but had to be done.

Day 7 Lamjhoonga to Borasu Pass to Bonga ( 4900M to 5180 M to 4500M). Started early at five. None of us had earlier walked on snow. But it was easier than expected. About one km walk on snow on the up. Borasu pass was now within reach. It is not as much a pass as a spire near the ridge. A steep gradient in the last 30-40 metres. Loose stones were a cause of worry. So we went one at a time. Aided by Porters. At 9.30 we were on the pass. A group of trekkers from Bengal who had kept us company right from Sankri joined us there soon after. The ridge is so narrow that it is barely 5 M across.
All of us huddled there for photos, slogans and hand shakes. The Bengali group called for national anthem which was performed with all respects. The other side opened up very spectacularly. The Jupkia Glacier field was visible. the downside of pass had snow too. It faced east so it was softer. Porters sort of toboganned down and told us to follow. We did. But then decided in favour of sanity. And started to walk. About half a Km and then steep descent over loose boulders and scree slope. This was the toughest part. About 200 M downwards (vertical distance) over scree and boulder slope was tougher than expected. The stones wouldn't just listen! A slight pressure and go rolling over. It required safe walking with each one informed about the perils. It was done in one hour time. Just when we though it was over, there was more in store. Jupkia Glacier field is nearly 1.5 km wide. The path is all strewn with boulders. Sharp, big. And we thought we had done our bit from Ratta-tho to Sauni-Bhera.. This would take forever. Stone by stone. Step by step. all attention on the step. The moment you attempt two things in one go(like boulder hopping and looking around), injury is always at hand. It was negotiated slowly and safely before the final climb over a steep ridge leading to Bonga. Climb up the ridge was a slippery affair. But with little help we could do it. From here it was three km's walk to Bonga. Entirely over the ridge. we were walking parallel to Jupkia Glacier. Short of Bonga we were joined by another tributary of Jupkia Gad. The more the merrier. Flowers showed up again. Good! Bonga was near.
Ah! Bonga, a nice, wide meadow. Shepherds, here too. We had to crossover the stream to reach the meadow. The water stung. It was 5 Pm. And very cold. The coldest of places so far enroute. A long day. And a well deserved rest. Retired early to be up early. The next day too was long.

Bonga to Ranikanda (4500M to 4000M, 13 Km, 8 hrs) boulders wouldn't leave. I saw such persistence after a very long time. After some difficult descent, the boulders settled down to an acceptable level. And then we were joined by the Jupkia Gad. A lot of water. A lot of noise. A whole lot of floweres. Violet Lashkars and red Lamachi (local names). Couldn't stop bending over and hello'ing these evanascent blossoms. The course was nothing short of a song for atleast four km's. And then tree line appeared most mysterioulsly. One Bhoj, then another and then a whole jungle of them. Soft grass beneath. a rolling meadow in front. The roar of Baspa. Ranikanda was near. Yet far. Three Km's from here to the bridge at Ranikanda. Boulders again. Testing times. Reached Ranikanda at 5 Pm. tents were up. ITBP posts were deserted. They had moved up further. The bridge over Baspa had to crossed tomorrow. Till then we remain teetered to yesterday.
A very lonely place. A big meadow. Boys and girls from Chitkul were coming back from Karu Devta's temple which is about 20 Km upstream. Clean water had to be fetched from one Km.

Day 9 Ranikanda to Chitkul, 4000M to 3450 M, 12 Km's 6 hrs

A very plasant walk along the river course. Chitkul beckoned from a distance. I guess distance is its reward itself. For distance is the motive force. It calls to be bridged. Once bridged, it becomes a passage for easy retrospection from where nostalgia, remembrance...can easily take us down the memory lane.
Chitkul it was after the ITBP post at Nagasti. Where we were offerred hot tea by the staff. Nobody questioned about any permits.

The remaing part on monday.

Lucky

TREKorDIE

Congratulations Lucky
completed such a nice trek, wonderful write up.

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TREKorDIE:
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lucky

Hi

Here is the remaining part

Chitkul was the same as seen ten years ago. Except a change in its population from 494(1995) to 610(2005). The same pea fields. harvest at hand. Families busy in harvesting peas. The wind swept solitude. The same stream running through the village was there. At the welcome gate as you enter Chitkul from Nagasti side, the same auspiciousness of Budhist deities greets you ans also strips you of any evil that you might have brought along. The mellow glow of wick lamp is heartening. People! at last. Checked in staraight into thakur guest house. Nihore lal remembered us as the pack who tried doing Kinner Kailash Parikrama from the wrong side and failed. He didn't carry any malaise as was evident from 50% discount he offered us. Old times sake. Chitkul is an old village. You can put one year for each denizen. Almost 400 years. It used to be thriving trade centre between Tibbet and India. The cultural revolution in China (Annexing Tibbet) gagged this route. many people migrated to Uttaranchal. Some moved down. The more hardy stayed back.

Breaking for lunch. More later>

Lucky

AvidTrekker

Congratulations, lucky!

Where are the pix?

lucky

Thanks Avid, Trek or die, Rahul, jyoti........

This is truly a wonderful forum. It wouldn't have been possible to plan the trek without the help of all the Indiamike buddies.
The pics are getting scanned at Kinsey's New Delhi. I'll have them the day after and then share all with you guys.

There's more I want to share. On the sad note. It all went very well. We parted company with our Guides and Porters at Sangla from where we headed for Punjab and the Agency guys for Rohru from where they would take conveyance to Purola. On reaching Bathinda(Punjab) we read the news of an accident on Rohru-Purola road in which some people died. My heart skipped a beat and I rang up Mannu at Mori who is the sole contact of Har-ki-doon protection and mountaineering association. It was confirmed that three of our porters; Ganga Singh, Janak Singh, Bharat Singh and one from the Bengali group; Raju had perished in the mishap. Our able and very cheerful guide Chandan Singh Rana too was in that taxi but he survived with a few bruises.
All the deceased were very young and bubbly lot. We, the members of AAROHAN have decided to extend monitory support to their families.
But then that will just be monitory support. It would help alleviate but never put back the clock.
Lucky
P.S. Avid how about your Pin Parbati plans.

AvidTrekker

The trek went like a dream. Did Pin Parvati And Pin Bhaba passes. Will post pics and report in a few days time.

lucky

Hi Avid

Double congratulations!!!!

Lucky

rahul550

Dear Lucky,

Felt really sad to hear the sad note from you. It is really painfull to know that some of the potters have lost their lives in the accident. You know these guys are the only earning members of their families and now, that they are no more their families will have to face even more hardship than before. But at the same time relieved to know that Chandan Singh survived the mishap. e isa very close friend of mine and I am sure you would agree that the bonds of friendship forged in the high mountains are real friendships. It would be a great loss to loose such a friend. Yes, it would be really great if we could do something for the families of the decised. I am 100% with you.

Rahul