Gangotri Area: Trekking information

ogion

I would like to add some information that is usually not found in the various places one looks for trekking info.

To stay in Gangotri - if you are an indian, a very good option is the ISHAVASYA Ashram on the true left bank of the Bhagirathi (excellent place, clean - no smoking/drinking and your INR 100/- gets you lunch dinner tea and hot water in the morning). The other places are the Birla Ashram and Kailash Sangam ashram (all on the true left).

There is an entry fee to the Gangotri park INR 500(?) for foreigners and INR 100 for indians-
PLUS a tent charge of Rs.100/- per tent per day.

The Bangali baba at the top in tapovan is a crook and a thief. Be careful to discuss all the prices BEFORE anything. I am told that he does NOT have the permit to run a hotel, yet he does and charges for the campsite too.

The route crossing to Nandanvan from Tapovan is pretty straightforward, if you have some experience in reading trails. There are crevasses en route, but the clear trail (marked with Cairns throughout) avoids all these - if you are careful to remain ON it. (this is to say that you do NOT need a guide if you have the experience)

Thirdly, an excursion upto Kirti glacier gives great views of Kedar dome and Chaukamba - about 2-3 hours. If you cross the glacier, then I am told that you can see Thalaysagar etc. too, but this glacier is far more non-trivial than the Gangotri. Sundervan is on the OTHER side of the glacier. The route to Kirti bamak is clear and keeps moving parallel to the gangotri glacier and close to the glaciers edge on the tapovan ridge. About 30 mins from Tapovan, comes a bifurcation to Nandanvan but you parallel to get to sundervan. There are a lot of stones falling from the higher ridge - so it is better to walk at the very edge of the tapovan ridge (water can be a problem en route)

Some information about guides. They may NOT be required if you are going upto Tapovan (and even for Nandanvan) if you have some trekking experience. To reach Tapovan, you cross the Gangotri glacier just above Gaumukh and again the route is clearly marked with Cairns.
DISCLAIMER: I do not claim that the route is trivial or that it is totally safe. Just that one can avoid using a guide if one takes lots of care. What YOU do is your responsibility.

Do NOT be mislead by smooth talking people who claim to have summitted various mountains in that area. On the whole you would be better off if you hire a Garhwali person rather than a migrant nepali (avoids local bad blood).

For those with some mountaineering experience, there is a shortish climb possible from Tapovan to what is called Chhota Shivling. This is technical - requires crampons/rope/ice-axes etc. We met an Austrian couple who did this in one day with no guide.

KEDAR TAL
The route to Kedar tal ascends steeply just behind the Dandi Ashram on the true left bank. In fact, the ascent remains steep pretty much upto Bhoj Kharak. The trail is clear and has slight bits of exposure.

One hour from Bhoj Kharak, one has to descend to the kedar ganga and then run like hell - lots of falling stones from the scree slopes.

There was a lot of snow further ahead, so we could not make it to the Tal itself - but already you get terrific views of Thalaysagar and Bhrigupanth.

Another possible one/two day excursion is to the Rudugaira valley (the one before Kedar ganga).

Yet another is Kheda Tal -

There are others, more later.

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babuchand

heard first time in my life......
there wes some cynical words for mata ji...also runs one ashram @ tapovan....
any way will find out in Oct as we will be going....

nice info ogion.........thanx

give some clear info abt kirti glacier sundervan and neeltaal
any hand drawn map if u have / or can remember....

babu

jyotipg

There was no bangali baba last year... there was only an ashram of bangali Amma.. perhaps u r talking abt her assistant..

I stayed in that Ashram for 2 days.. didnt find anything spiritual in it.. they r sitting there just to make money.. they were not happy of the payment we made(Rs 501) and wanted some more money..

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dumb_bacchus

I have done Tapovan. Lets thing about it - if bengali ma and this other baba wernt up there - how would you have managed? I wonder why do people become miser paying a little more for a thali of rice n dal at such altitudes. I think even if they are charging more - let say much much more then also its a service... Will you stay at that altitude and cook magiee for me for 5 bucks???

Also about the bad local blood ?? I have never in my past 4 year of treking experience found any local up the hill a theif... I am not saying embrace them, but respect them and pay them well, after all they make things possible for you..

cheers

babuchand

no there is a bangali baba up there in tapovan...also called simlai baba.
he has stayed there for 36 long years. I have heard that nowadays he is suffering from asthma problem and thus its necessary for him to descend in harsh winter.

many people recall the help they have got from him... he also showed trekkers the route to neeltal or meru bamak or kirti bamak.

anyway may be things have changed with time.... after all INDIAN ECONOMY IS AT BOOST JUST NOW.

babu

ogion

The old Bangali Baba (who by all accounts was a nice man) is no more - in fact his "samadhi" is there in Tapovan. There are two guys who now stay in that "ashram" - one is called Jagat.

There is also another "baba" called Mauni baba (the silent one). We witnessed a scrap between the two baba's with very choice expressions flying about - the current bangali baba then brought out a scimtar and threatened to kill the other fellow. The 'mauni' was accusing this pair of swindling people in the name of an ashram and was very angry that they accused him of being a thief.

Some people told me that when the Mataji is around, these two guys behave themselves... but she wasn't there.

p.s: Babu, I will put up the maps/routes/pictures in a bit - a little busy at the moment.

ogion

I think I might have unintentionally started some argument (about the baba business). I meant this thread to contain only (correct and precise) information and not discussions about what who would have done. I apologise if I have upset anyone.

Bacchus: We were well prepared for the trek - complete with cooker and butane cylinders and in fact enough ready made food for two days. Although, it would have been painful to cook and clean with all the snow - we have done that before too.

I propose that we stop discussions on this matter here ----

To sum up:

There are two Babas on Tapovan (fact). Both offer places to stay - food to eat, tea and extra blankets if you need them.

There are very nice camp sites all over the place.

There is nice stream running right through Tapovan - so no water problem.
If you are concerned about the safety of your tent - then

• carry a lock for the door - or let there be someone present at the camp-site.
• or walk on past the baba's ashram following the track towards the far end of Tapovan - there are nice campsites some distance away (private, and cosy)

Food: You can eat at either of the two baba's - just fix the price beforehand. You can also get tea. Or you could carry your own stuff.

Nandanvan: tents + food is a must carry - no babas there.

Sundervan does not seem to be a trek i.e., a serious glacier crossing is involved (Gangotri glacier is much easier than Kirti. We are not 100% sure about this. Initially, we were told that Sundervan is on the Tapovan ridge itself - but near Kirti glacier. However, there are no campsites there - far too many stones and avalanches and no (flowing) water. We now think that just like Nandanvan, Sundervan is on the other side (its supposed to be the base camp for Kedar Dome) of Kirti glacier.

Chaukhamba is not visible from anywhere in Tapovan/Nandanvan - sorry about that - I was confusing Kharchakund with Chaukhamba.

babuchand

thanks...very helpful u are....so let me exploit u and your experience a bit more....
just give me a hand drawn map of kirti glacier and neeltal from tapovan (maynot be scalable but please maintain the directions properly)...u can easily drwai it in paint or draw it on paper and scan. send it attached in the post so that many can get help form it.

regards
babu

himadventures

BABAS are no more 'those' babas in our minds. be it TAPOVAN or PINDARI-life is like this. Everyone is right and has it's own dimensions to see the things. I agree with everyone..when one is in mountains...take what it comes with !!

dhanu

Hi ogion

Can you please provide me information about gomukh entrance fees. As we want to carry camera with us. How much is fees and I am not understand about fees for Tents. It is hiring charge or something else. We are planning from Gangotri to Bardinath in last week of September. Last time we went upto Tapovan this time we want cross kalindi khal. Please provide me information if you have about porter rates and guide rates also. If at all we want to hire tends where we can get and for how much rent per day.

babuchand

there are some post in uttaranchal forum...they answer your question.

for tents there are some minor fees pre day.

there are one time fees for camera. If u want to take some brandy take it secretely...or they will seize it (will return to u while comeing back).

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babu
visit : http://www.webmania.co.za/travelmania/babu/index.shtml

"The stupid neither forgive nor forget; the naive forgive and forget; the wise forgive but do not forget."

dhanu

Thanks babu but can you provide uttranchal thread where I can get it ple explain
thanks once again