EBC trekking

#16 Jun 7th, 2009, 14:35
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  • austinivor is offline
#16

EBC trek.....a short report.

Hi All, again !!

I did my 2nd trek to EBC in the first half of May this year, with the wife, we are both around 60, n thought of putting down a few points that may help those going to EBC in the near future
Took the train from LTT Kurla, Mumbai, got to Gorakhpur at 0735 and got a share-a-cab right in the railway station at 0800 for Rs 100 a seat, 2.5 hrs to the border. A cycle rickshaw takes Rs 30 to take you across the border. A 5 day strike of the Terai region had just finished, and the only route opened was a van to Pokhra and on to Kathmandu, Nepali currency NC 1000 per seat,
12 hrs to KTM !!
the next day was spent hiring Down Jackets (NC 30 per day )stayed
at a clean place in Thamel/Jaytha for INR 350 per day. the taxi to the airport was NC 300 and the KTM-Lukla return flight was
INR 5200 for Indians. The 35 min flt to Lukla was quiet, good weather, and met my old pal Larkhe Sherpa, who owns Buddha lodge right at the airport building exit gate. he got us a very good porter, for NC 600 per day. you could get one a little cheaper, but those tend to quit or hand over to others enroute !!
I had done a complete day to day budgeting, but got a small shock after talking to Larkhe, and checking out his rates on the menu !! as food costs have really realy gone thru the roof in the last few years. changed another US100 ,just in case !!
went up to Bengkar for the night halt, as Phakding is a tourist trap. next day the Permit Office at Monjo charges Indians NC 100, NC 1000 for non-SAARC trekkies !! The climb to Namche Bazar is as formidable as ever, and the woods were full of Russians!! Bengkar to NB is a 5 hrs walk.
Thawa lodge in the centre of NB is clean, quiet, and Ganga, the Manager, Chef, is a real nice guy and a good cook. NC 100 for a room, and NC 200 for a gas fired hot shower . did a day's acclimatizing, climbed to the airstrip at Syangboche and along the ridge above Everest View Hotel to the last point where Tengboche, Phortse, and the 2 valleys were seen.
Skipped Tengboche and on to Dewoche, the next day, 4.5hrs walk.
another 4 hrs to Pheriche, spent 2 nights there with the 2nd acclimat. climb high into the mountains, above Dingboche, stayed at Mount Kailash lodge run by an old Lama, NC50 for a clean room and NC 100 for a bucket of HOT water that worked wonders !!
again a rocky climb 3hr 45 mins to Lobuche thru Dugla and the memorials to the Everest dead. the down jackets were in full use from before Pheriche, and were lifesavers.
2.5 hrs to the last halt at Gorakshep, and after a small break
left the gear at the lodge and on to EBC, which was quite crowded
with all AND a bakery !! the nights were surely 0 degrees, as the water bin in the toilet has a sheet of ice in the morning !! started at 0530 the next morn to Kalo Patthar,at -2degs, a 2 hr climb freezing, till the sun finaly came out, and the Everest range and Khumbu glacier all bright and shining. But
really , the better time to view Big E n gang is 1600hrs, with the evening light falling across the whole panorama, a BBC team
concurred with this opinion !!! took just 40 min to descend.
we cancelled our plans to do Gokio, so took it easy on the way back, going via Upper Pangboche , which in my opinion is really the lovliest, most peaceful place on the whole trail.
a long traverse along the mountain, sightings of large wild goats and on to Phortse, only to have to go right down to the river ( a major pain ,in the mountains ) and climb all the way UP again, over 1000 ft to a night halt a Mongla. the rest of the trek was quiet, back to NBazar to Ganga and his Hashbrowns smothered with cheese. then to the outskirts of Phakding and back to Lukla where Larkhe who KNOWS ALL, DOES ALL, got us preponed air tkts for a quiet return to KTM, where a taxi took NC350 to get us back to Hotel Blue Horizon, opposite the Himalayan Bank Building. Our plans to stay in KTM for 2 days were shelved as the Prime Minister n his gang had quit, and we were not sure when the country would go into another BIG STRIKE mode. we had conections to make in Gorakhpur to Delhi, as we were meeting a group from Pune and going off to Bedni Bugyal on the Roopkund trail !! The bus from KTM was NC350 each for a 8 hr jaunt back to the border and the Sumo shared to Gorakhpur.
Double rooms on the trek were NC 100, except Lobuche/Gorakshep
were NC200. below is a list of food costs to shock you!
NC 160 =INR 100 all rates in NC n vary off peak season
tea 2 eggs porri vegfry potato roti pasta dalbaat
dge rice soup
lukla 30 80 80 160 70 70 180 150
bengkar 40 70 80 150 70 60 200 170
NBazar 40 95 100 200 120 95 220 250
Dewoche 50 200 210 250 150 150 280 300
pheriche 55 210 200 320 180 200 350 380
lobuche 65 270 250 380 200 270 450 430
g'shep 70 300 290 390 210 270 450 450
up P'bce 40 200 200 250 150 200 300 250
mongla 40 100 110 200 120 100 300 250

The statistics of the entry office showed the number of trekkies
entering the national park. Oct/9460 nov/abt 1500 dec/600
march/4500 april/3600 june/july abt300 so Oct IS NOT the time to do this trek. the best is begin on 20th May .
hope this yarn helps some of you guys on the trail.
#17 Jun 8th, 2009, 10:48
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  • gadventure is offline
#17
A nice report, Austinivor, especially from aviewpoint of planning our own trip. Thanks..

btw, in addition to 600, how much do you need to pay to the porter for food/accommodation ?
#18 Jun 8th, 2009, 14:47
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  • austinivor is offline
#18

porter costs

paying the porter NC 600 takes care of ALL his expenses. locals have a separate understanding with lodge owners, and are charged at different rates from trekkers. better make clear the minimum amount of days you are hiring the porter, and as I did, paid him about 50 percent on the trail, ie NC 1000 ev 3 days, and the balance when you return to Lukla. most places hv porter restrooms where they stay for the night at minimum costs.
#19 Aug 24th, 2009, 00:26
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  • kamalaprosad is offline
#19
Thanks for such an elaborate description. Wel i thought of palning my trip in october, Well now its stand cancelled with your given stat......... I will plan now in may next year.
You told that the trend of porter is to leave you in mid way or hand ofer to other......... how to safe guard myself from that.Well i travel all alone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by austinivor View Post Hi All, again !!

I did my 2nd trek to EBC in the first half of May this year, with the wife, we are both around 60, n thought of putting down a few points that may help those going to EBC in the near future
Took the train from LTT Kurla, Mumbai, got to Gorakhpur at 0735 and got a share-a-cab right in the railway station at 0800 for Rs 100 a seat, 2.5 hrs to the border. A cycle rickshaw takes Rs 30 to take you across the border. A 5 day strike of the Terai region had just finished, and the only route opened was a van to Pokhra and on to Kathmandu, Nepali currency NC 1000 per seat,
12 hrs to KTM !!
the next day was spent hiring Down Jackets (NC 30 per day )stayed
at a clean place in Thamel/Jaytha for INR 350 per day. the taxi to the airport was NC 300 and the KTM-Lukla return flight was
INR 5200 for Indians. The 35 min flt to Lukla was quiet, good weather, and met my old pal Larkhe Sherpa, who owns Buddha lodge right at the airport building exit gate. he got us a very good porter, for NC 600 per day. you could get one a little cheaper, but those tend to quit or hand over to others enroute !!
I had done a complete day to day budgeting, but got a small shock after talking to Larkhe, and checking out his rates on the menu !! as food costs have really realy gone thru the roof in the last few years. changed another US100 ,just in case !!
went up to Bengkar for the night halt, as Phakding is a tourist trap. next day the Permit Office at Monjo charges Indians NC 100, NC 1000 for non-SAARC trekkies !! The climb to Namche Bazar is as formidable as ever, and the woods were full of Russians!! Bengkar to NB is a 5 hrs walk.
Thawa lodge in the centre of NB is clean, quiet, and Ganga, the Manager, Chef, is a real nice guy and a good cook. NC 100 for a room, and NC 200 for a gas fired hot shower . did a day's acclimatizing, climbed to the airstrip at Syangboche and along the ridge above Everest View Hotel to the last point where Tengboche, Phortse, and the 2 valleys were seen.
Skipped Tengboche and on to Dewoche, the next day, 4.5hrs walk.
another 4 hrs to Pheriche, spent 2 nights there with the 2nd acclimat. climb high into the mountains, above Dingboche, stayed at Mount Kailash lodge run by an old Lama, NC50 for a clean room and NC 100 for a bucket of HOT water that worked wonders !!
again a rocky climb 3hr 45 mins to Lobuche thru Dugla and the memorials to the Everest dead. the down jackets were in full use from before Pheriche, and were lifesavers.
2.5 hrs to the last halt at Gorakshep, and after a small break
left the gear at the lodge and on to EBC, which was quite crowded
with all AND a bakery !! the nights were surely 0 degrees, as the water bin in the toilet has a sheet of ice in the morning !! started at 0530 the next morn to Kalo Patthar,at -2degs, a 2 hr climb freezing, till the sun finaly came out, and the Everest range and Khumbu glacier all bright and shining. But
really , the better time to view Big E n gang is 1600hrs, with the evening light falling across the whole panorama, a BBC team
concurred with this opinion !!! took just 40 min to descend.
we cancelled our plans to do Gokio, so took it easy on the way back, going via Upper Pangboche , which in my opinion is really the lovliest, most peaceful place on the whole trail.
a long traverse along the mountain, sightings of large wild goats and on to Phortse, only to have to go right down to the river ( a major pain ,in the mountains ) and climb all the way UP again, over 1000 ft to a night halt a Mongla. the rest of the trek was quiet, back to NBazar to Ganga and his Hashbrowns smothered with cheese. then to the outskirts of Phakding and back to Lukla where Larkhe who KNOWS ALL, DOES ALL, got us preponed air tkts for a quiet return to KTM, where a taxi took NC350 to get us back to Hotel Blue Horizon, opposite the Himalayan Bank Building. Our plans to stay in KTM for 2 days were shelved as the Prime Minister n his gang had quit, and we were not sure when the country would go into another BIG STRIKE mode. we had conections to make in Gorakhpur to Delhi, as we were meeting a group from Pune and going off to Bedni Bugyal on the Roopkund trail !! The bus from KTM was NC350 each for a 8 hr jaunt back to the border and the Sumo shared to Gorakhpur.
Double rooms on the trek were NC 100, except Lobuche/Gorakshep
were NC200. below is a list of food costs to shock you!
NC 160 =INR 100 all rates in NC n vary off peak season
tea 2 eggs porri vegfry potato roti pasta dalbaat
dge rice soup
lukla 30 80 80 160 70 70 180 150
bengkar 40 70 80 150 70 60 200 170
NBazar 40 95 100 200 120 95 220 250
Dewoche 50 200 210 250 150 150 280 300
pheriche 55 210 200 320 180 200 350 380
lobuche 65 270 250 380 200 270 450 430
g'shep 70 300 290 390 210 270 450 450
up P'bce 40 200 200 250 150 200 300 250
mongla 40 100 110 200 120 100 300 250

The statistics of the entry office showed the number of trekkies
entering the national park. Oct/9460 nov/abt 1500 dec/600
march/4500 april/3600 june/july abt300 so Oct IS NOT the time to do this trek. the best is begin on 20th May .
hope this yarn helps some of you guys on the trail.
#20 Aug 24th, 2009, 21:00
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  • austinivor is offline
#20

KP ebc trek

Hi,
re porters, get in touch with Larkhe Sherpa I mentioned at Buddha lodge, he's very well connected and is abs reliable........what I said was, that a porter at a cheaper price MAY quit in the middle, not necessarily so. I still feel trekking there from abt 20th/25th May is a nicer quieter experience, rather than the mad rush and non negotiable rates in October. Have you done the Langtang valley and Gosaikund trek in Nepal ?...is easier, very nice and much less crowded in October.
#21 Aug 25th, 2009, 18:36
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  • kamalaprosad is offline
#21
austinivor Nice to have your valuable sugessions
I have never visited nepal, and treak at that pary of himalaya is my first one.........So i am collectingall the data to keep myself on my foot.
#22 Mar 21st, 2010, 12:31
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  • sameerbarde is offline
#22
Great stuff Austinivor , Planning to do EBC May 7th -24th Kathmandu to Kathmandu with a group . They are quoting INR 40k all inclusive . Seems a bit steep. Any suggestions?
#23 Mar 21st, 2010, 16:07
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  • austinivor is offline
#23

EBC trek Sameer

firstly.........if you are a regular trekker, physically fit, and adventurous ( !! ), there's no reason why you can't do this trek by y'self, rather than shell out 40k ( WOW ). you DO NOT need a guide, a porter is optional, and you trek at your own pace.
my wife and I are both just over 60, and did this on our own, at less than half your quote !! I can give you info re air tkts etc if you wish, let's know.
#24 Mar 23rd, 2010, 14:58
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  • Rhododendron is offline
#24
Quote:
Originally Posted by austinivor View Post Hi All, again !!

I did my 2nd trek to EBC in the first half of May this year, with the wife, we are both around 60, n thought of putting down a few points that may help those going to EBC in the near future
Took the train from LTT Kurla, Mumbai, got to Gorakhpur at 0735 and got a share-a-cab right in the railway station at 0800 for Rs 100 a seat, 2.5 hrs to the border. A cycle rickshaw takes Rs 30 to take you across the border. A 5 day strike of the Terai region had just finished, and the only route opened was a van to Pokhra and on to Kathmandu, Nepali currency NC 1000 per seat,
12 hrs to KTM !!........
.
Hi Austinivor, My first post on IndiaMike, I am set to do the EBC / Kala Pathar trek starting April 1st!! Its been my dream to climb the Everest, but now that I can finally afford to do this in terms of taking time out and the money, I can only realistically aspire to get close enough - hence the EBC - but now I am having a few last minute shivers - mainly if i am fit enough to enjoy this trek? How fit does one need to be? Was it very difficult for the both of you?

I am 42, female, heavier than I like to be, desk job, etc etc. but i have been on a self-made plan and over the past 8 weeks, have been walking and climbing (stairs) gradually increasing the workouts, so as of yesterday I can climb 27 flights of stairs up and down (thats how high my office building is!!) in one go, and can repeat this again in the day, then walk for 3-4 hours with a small backpack and my hiking boots on, in the evening - ofcourse not hilly terrain - this is at sea level and in the 'desert' - ie uneven, sandy,and then do it again the next day, with minor aches and pains..
I thought this was excellent!! but last weekend went rock climbing in Oman and was huffing and puffing within an hour and ready to give up!!

So how difficult is the EBC (teahouse) trek, and how fit is fit enough?
#25 Mar 23rd, 2010, 20:09
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  • austinivor is offline
#25

Rhodo.....EBC trek

this is no cliche.....but a lot of the fitness is in your mind !!!
many folk get " the shivers ", being big name EBC and all. From what you've said re the practise, it's good, only THING is is the altitude, which you only can experience UP THERE !! I suggest you take a porter only.....talk to Larke Sherpa, at Buddha lodge, at Lukla airport, as I said there are LOTS of guides/porters hanging around the exit gate at Lukla....exercise caution. If yr rock climbing meant pulling yself up and down a rope, then getting out of breath is Allowed no one needs to be superwoman to do EBC, just good health/breathing, strong back and leg muscles to get you around. try and do it in steps I mentioned, putting in the acclim. days.......carry yr small pack with water and something to munch on. The first real climb is after the permit office at Monjo/Jorsale up to N Bazar, pace yself and stop for a minute ev15 mins or so, DO NOT sit down, just stand , bend forwd or lean against a tree sort off....I did it with a full pack both times , so yrs should be easier
drink a lot of water all the way, and make up yr mind that yre going to really enjoy this trek, with all the aches and pains...
try and do K Pattar in the afternoon/early evening. also you don't need a guide. soooooo enjoy. any more Qs are welcome.
#26 Mar 23rd, 2010, 23:42
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  • Rhododendron is offline
#26
Hi Austinivor, thank you for your quick response. I will going with a group of 12 people, its all fully organized, porters and the works. My son who is 17 too will be going with me, so he will be carrying my stuff in his daypack too I plan to carry my camera and small pack with only water.. but downside of doing with a group is I cannot set my own pace, and I dont want to fall behind. But the program has a fairly relaxed pace and I think all I need to do is be confident that I can do it Will try and keep a photojournal and post here when i get back.
#27 Mar 24th, 2010, 11:58
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  • sameerbarde is offline
#27
Quote:
Originally Posted by austinivor View Post firstly.........if you are a regular trekker, physically fit, and adventurous ( !! ), there's no reason why you can't do this trek by y'self, rather than shell out 40k ( WOW ). you DO NOT need a guide, a porter is optional, and you trek at your own pace.
my wife and I are both just over 60, and did this on our own, at less than half your quote !! I can give you info re air tkts etc if you wish, let's know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhododendron View Post Hi Austinivor, thank you for your quick response. I will going with a group of 12 people, its all fully organized, porters and the works. My son who is 17 too will be going with me, so he will be carrying my stuff in his daypack too I plan to carry my camera and small pack with only water.. but downside of doing with a group is I cannot set my own pace, and I dont want to fall behind. But the program has a fairly relaxed pace and I think all I need to do is be confident that I can do it Will try and keep a photojournal and post here when i get back.
@ Austinivor Thanks again fitness and age dont relate ( for eg Abba from Pune still does EBC i believe and he must be pushing 70) ( BTW and born brought up Pune)and im in no great shape having ridden a table for 4 yrs now!! But having seen your post i think i'll go for it by myself, will bother you for more info as i get closer to going!

@ Rhodo , best of luck , i 'm sure we'll run into each other on the route as i plan to start on the 9th from Lukhla we should meet on your way down. If you let me know your itinerary we should be able to figure out the day we'll cross each other!
#28 Mar 25th, 2010, 01:21
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  • Rhododendron is offline
#28
Sameerbarde, will have the final program tomorrow, will post then, but tentatively will be in Lukla on 3rd April and then back there again on 13th. Doing the usual circuit of Phadking - Namche - Tengboche - pheriche - Loubuche - Kala Pattar and back..
#29 May 4th, 2011, 00:01
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  • arkadeep is offline
#29

EBC in June

Hi,

I'm planning to do EBC in this June. Got a little confused in trying to book a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla.

None of the websites (cleartrip, Makemytrip etc.)are showing available flights. Is it due to the rush in June?

How can I book the flight from Kathmandu to Lukla?

Or is it OK to go to Jiri and trek from there? In that case how do I book a return flight?

I've enough days in my hand so can change plan dynamically.

-Arkadeep
#30 May 4th, 2011, 00:26
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  • Pradeep Nayak is offline
#30
Hi. There many flights from Kathmandu to Lukla. Don't worry about booking in advance. Your hotel guys in Kathmandu will easily do that for you. From Jiri to Lukla it takes 5 days to trek. So don't try that option - you'll lose your stamina in vein and won't be able to enjoy the beautiful route from Lukla to Kalapatthar (its tough).

I had done an one-way ticket to Lukla. After the trek I bought my ticket from Agnee air's office in Liukla. Anyways return tickets are open tickets. So just you have to inform your airline guys in Lukla the previous day. So have fun in Lukla overnight in a good hotel.

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