Down the memory lane! Our " Everest Base camp Nature study expedition 1978."

Thank you Nick, for the appreciation.

The chorten marking the top of the pass sets off the towering views of Kangtega (22235'/6779m) and Thamserku across the Dudh Kosi valley.

Once dropping down through forest then we were at the pagoda like monastery of Takshindu.Here in Takshindu we tested Tibatian tea consisting of hot water,salt,milk and Yak cheese, apart from the strong smelling yak cheese,we enjoyed it.



Descended steeply to Manidingma, and further through mustard fields and through forest.
The descent continued into the valley of the Dudh Kosi, which drains the southern slopes of the Everest Massif.



Crossing a suspension bridge was obvious,then it was gradual climb to the Jubing.

Continued to the Magar and Sherpa villages of Khari Khola, a village with water mills and mani walls which had a colorful market every Wednesday.

Jubing to Khari Khola trail reminded me of the climb to upper fort of Rajgad. (climbing the summit of the Rajgad fort i.e. Bale Killa which controls the entire fort strategically.)

At Khari Khola we paid porter charges to head porter for the services rendered from Lamosangu to Khari Khola.
We also thanked all porters for the co-operation extended to us and shared some sweets with them too.
As we were about to trek in High Altitude region from this place onwards it was time to appoint High Altitude porters.and Yak.

These ( HAP's ) porters are well acclimatized and Yaks being more strong, since they being from the same High Altitude region.




While on the way to Puyyan softly sweet, white, holy magnolia flowers attracted us.We also noticed Coelogyne orchids in this region.






This was bird watchers paradise.We could see Yellow billed blue magpie, White Caped Redstart,Chough ( Chuff) and few other birds but could capture only the Tibetian Snow Cock flock in camera.

Tibetian Snow Cock

We also witnessed an eagle's flight after Kahartedam which we could not capture as usual, as no movie camera was with us. Continued to village of Chauri Kharka.

From Chaurikharka keeping Lukla aside we then followed along with dudh kosi for Phakding.Trail continued to traverse high above river.
View up the valley was very nice, including the airstrip at Lukla.
A long, steep descent took us to small river at Surkya.

From Surkhe our route diverted to west and we joined the main trail coming from Lukla,



( For information: On 5 August 1985 an avalanche of ice and rock falling into an ice lake above the village of Thame caused the lake to burst. The resulting flood greatly affected the Bhote Kosi valley destroying bridges and the partially built hydro scheme below Thamo and also destroyed all the other bridges and some of the route down the Dudh Kosi, it also rolled over the massive boulder mentioned above.
Those who have visited recently might have witnessed at the side of the bridge a brightly painted mani rock, carved in commemoration of several families who died when the Dudh Kosi became a raging torrent from an avalanche that originated high on the slopes of Ama Dablam, a startling pyramid hidden by the steep walls of the valley above. )

From Phakding after crossing the suspension bridge over the Dudh-Kosi the walk was pleasant with few short uphill and downhill and re-crossing the same river again, with magnificent view of Thermasarkhu 6,608m, from the village of Benkar.

Dudh Kosi


Woooden BridgeNear Phakding Built by Swiss


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Now I can identify the region! Oh those bridges! Lovely pictures and account.

I am sure now it will be more enjoyable for you.

Gathering some more energy for the Namche climb now,stay tuned.

I must say how I overlooked such a wonderful thread for two days ......... amazing thread ...... full of info & amazing snaps

Vina-ji: I have caught up now! Nice writeup and great old pics!

I recognised the names of most of the places you mentioned. Of course, in 2006 the road had reached Jiri so my trek started from there.

It took me 10 days from Jiri via Shivalaya, Bhandar, Sete, Lamjura, Junbesi, Nunthala, Khari-Khola, Puiyan, Surkhe, Ghat, Namche-Bazaar. In many ways this part fo the trek was more beautiful than the 2nd half from Namche to Gorak-Shep. Junbesi, Nunthala & Khari-Khola were the most beautiful villages that I have ever seen in any trek so far.

Look forward to rest of your story and pictures.
.

Hota hai bahai... I do miss many threads and feel

As it is said better late than never. Well come PKanti

Thanks for reading my thread.

Well come ks

Indeed it was a great experience.

Beautiful villages and fantastic trail

Thanks once again,

Continued.........

Followed the Bhote Kosi through forest and pasture land along a valley dotted with small Sherpa settlements.
Crossed the Bhote Kosi and the climb was steep along switch-backing trail to large Sherpa village.
Views of Everest and Lhotse came into sight and finally reached at a small village of Monjo.
Monjo is situated below the magnificent peak of Thermasharkhu and near the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park.

After few minutes walk from Monjo,we were at the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park. From here a short descend and a gradual walk brought us to the suspension bridge over the Bhote-Koshi river.

After the bridge we reached Jorsalle village,the last village before Namche Bazaar,from here the walk was along the winding uphill path, the most strenuous climb was all the way to Namche Bazaar (11300'/3445m).

With magnificent view of Kwangde peak and few other peaks towards east, with Kusum kangru on the back.

As we climb higher, view of Mt.Everest- Nuptse wall, Lhotse and the closer view of Taweche peak could be seen all the way up to Thop Danda.

There was a resting stone wall for the porters and trekkers with a tea house.

From here another 1-2 hours walk, brought us in an amphitheater U shaped bowl of the famous Namche Bazaar (11300'/3445m).

This prosperous town was the largest in Khumbu.

A traditional trading center, the Bazaar was held every Saturday.
The wares on display included grains and vegetable, tennis shoes and trinkets as well as hand woven aprons and Tibetan boots.

Thamserku and Kwangde Ri loom to the east and west and the sacred mountain Khumbila dominates the skyline to the north behind the village.

Those blue colored iris flowers also reminded us that we were around 11000.

As you know the trek to Namche hill is very treacherous. As we were trekking for last several days and having crossed few high passes, many short and long uphills and downhills none of us felt it was that treacherous.

Chanting Gayatri Mantra was another secret, and provided the necessary rhythm while climbing.

Practicing Omkar and meditation was also of great help.

Due to Omkar and meditation lungs capacity gets improved and this helps us for proper acclimatization.

This helps you a lot.

Physical, mental & emotional strength is the key to complete the trek.

Normally listening to motivational songs and singing marching songs is also very useful tool while accenting /climbing or descending the mountains.

Next in queue was visit to KHUMJUNG where Everester Tensing Norge spend his childhood .

This village is one of the most beautiful in Khumbu.

On the way to Khumjung lots of Himalayan Birch trees were there.

We visited then Hillery school and Khumde hospital built by Hillery.

KHUMJUNG_KHUNDE_ Hillary school





It was our rest day and the day for acclimatization. In the morning we climbed till Syangboche Airstrip.

Visited Everest View Hotel which was built with the Japanies collaboration.Here for the first time we saw the electrically operated warm blankets in that hotel.

Everest View Hotel was the best *(Hotel No. One )* star hotel during that time from that region.

We paid 25=00 Nepalese rupee (NPR) for veg sandwich and
80=00 Nepalese rupee (NPR) for vegetable fried rice.
The library of the hotel which we visited was having lot many books on " The Great Himalaya " and this helped us gather huge information during our visit from that place.

View of the Mt.Everest, Nuptse, Ama Dablam from Everest view hotel




We had a snowing experience at Khumjung too, it snowed all the night.

Enjoying the beautiful symmetrically laid out stone houses and hospitality of Sherpa from Khumjung our next stay was at Thengboche.

This short trek becomes more useful for proper acclamatisation.

The trail descended from Khumjung through moss covered rhododendron forest and a dramatic view of Ama Dablam and Kangtaiga flanked by the towering heights of Sagarmatha (the Nepalese name for Everest), Lhotse and Nuptse.





Crosses the Dudh Kosi at Phungithanga and climbed through rhododendron forest to the saddle at the top of the hill where Tengboche lies at the base of Kangtaiga.

We visited the Thengboche monastery which was the main monastery of Khumbu area.

Very valuable and ancient religions books were there in the monastery













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What a wonderful trrail and tale. You didn't find the climb to Tengboche tough? I almost gave up there!

Being hardcore mountaineers we use to practice in Sanhyadris in those days.The other reason was our trekking started from Lamosangu.

As we trekked for several days and having crossed few high passes, many short and long uphills and downhills before reaching Monjo none of us felt it treacherous.

Chanting Gayatri Mantra was another secret, and provided the necessary rhythm while climbing towards Namche.

Apart from the views of the main peaks of Khumbu including Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Twaoche and Khumbila, traditional wall paintings and traditional instruments from monastery were the other attractions to stay at Tengboche.






The spur of this ridge offers panoramic views of the main peaks of Khumbu including Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Twaoche and Khumbila.







Next day we started our trek from Tengboche it was a descend and again crossing the Imja Khola then side hill gradually went to Pangboche. In Pangboche the interesting gompa site above the main village was of about 300 years old. The main attraction of the day was of the Yati Scalp,and we could manage to photograph it.



On the way to Pheriche some of us were fortunate enough to witness Musk deer. But due to the swift movements of the Musk deer and because of our poor photography equipment capturing that event was next to impossible.

Spending some time at Pangboche we proceeded to Pheriche for the night halt.



Visited the Himalayan Rescue Association aid post their at Pheriche .

Next day early in the morning,living behind Pheriche while approaching Lobuche we had a spectacular view of Makalu.

Gradually ascending the route we reached near Dugla where two stone huts that make up the settlement. There were few rock memorials nearby, of the sherps who lost their lives while supporting various Everest expeditions.

After another steep ascent the trail climbed up and over the terminal moraine of Khumbu Glacier.
Up and along the west lateral moraine of glacier the trail was rough in parts. Stark and rugged beauty created almost a moonscape.




Lobuche which was some what east of Pheriche in a narrow meadow between the glacier and the Lobuche Peak (20192'/6156m), was the last point where a trekker would get tea /snacks or can stay overnight. Nothing was available beyond this place during those days.

Tawache and Nuptse were particularly spectacular from Lobuche, towering almost two kilometers directly overhead.

Once reaching Lobuche (16173 ')now we were very close enough of Everest Base and everyone of us was highly exited.

Here the weather condition may put you in trouble,as many a times one may feel breathlessness, headache, loss of appetite and dehydration too.

We followed the advice given by Everestar Pertamba and used to drink as much tea /coffee/ drinking chocolate/ hot soup and water as possible.


Rufus-breasted Accentor flew away near Lobuche without giving a single chance to click .


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Lovely. We did Dengboche and Lobuje but while coming down I did stay at Pheriche and it is beautiful. At Lobuje I had a splitting head ache but I thank fully recovered. I have clicked an Alpine Accentor So many things have not changed even after so many years

Aren't you happy Vina that you are finally writing this? You certainly have made me very happy.

Thanks mridula,

Do agree with you "that things have not changed even after so many years" "only if it is restricted for an Alpine Accentor ".

However I differ as many things have changed which I noticed when visited your blog and when viewed few other snaps of the region on net.

Lot's of activity, lot many visitors, Lot's of construction, changing life style of sherpa settlements disturbing me

Hardly one or two flights in a day use to fly, but now it's a rush at Lukla it seems.

I am certainly for the persuasion from IMfriends like you mridula.

Tea time at Lobuche


Started early ,travelling along the Khumbu glacier through jumbled moraine and shattered rock.
We were delighted to see Everester Pertamba ( 1975 ) on the field.

With Everester Pertamba Sherpa



After 29 days of journey from Pune ,we were at the base of the great Mt. Everest.

It was 7th May 1978 and time was 11.30 am.

When reached Gorekhshep we settled where 1952 Swiss team had camped.It took some more time to pitch our tents as weather was windy and cloudy.We had all shaky windy experience .



Other than one or two scattered stone huts nothing was there, where one can settle safely, for a while.
In a way that was the better sight for camping.The camp site was naturally well protected by heavy winds. It was situated between Kalapatthar on one side and a small ridge on other side.

We heard loud thundering on and off .We came to know that in Khumbu region loud thundering and echoing was the normal thing.

Only our team was there at that time,who experienced that kind of isolation and enjoyed the sound and rhythm of nature.
Now a days it has become a chaos at the base camp, I suppose .



Lot many glacial lakes were there and because of these lakes the place used to recognize as lake camp sight .

Glacial lake near Everest Base camp



Mount Everest can't be seen from it's base camp because of it's peculiar geographical structure.



By the time we had our tea and snacks the weather changed again and we decided to take a chance to climb Kalpatthar which was below the impressive south face of Pumori and to have glimpses of Sagarmatha / Chomolugma / Mount Everest if possible.

It took us another two hours when we were in front of Pumori.





The views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse were spectacular from Kalpatthar






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