Down the memory lane! Our " Everest Base camp Nature study expedition 1978."

I will be happy if it inspires anybody to experience the

‘Deotatma, Nagadhiraja’,

Down the memory lane!

Year 1978.

Total 42 days from Pune to Pune

Trekked 24 days and covered distance of about 480 kms.

Without any insurance and air rescue coverage.
We were not aware of such things, not even knew such things were in existence!

A Review:

Exchange rate was:

For INR.1.00 = 1.50 Nepalese rupee (NPR) ...

Just imagine INR.47.62 (or 71.43 Nepalese rupee (NPR)) was our average per day per head Expenditure

Expenditure:
Which included sundry expenses,
Porterage,
Equipment hire charges,
Ration items and Tea/ Snacks/ Lodging and Boarding whenever required.
Transportation
( including Pune to Pune Trains, Buses, Steamer, Taxi, Tong cycle rickshaw fare and Air fare from Lukla to Kathmandu and
Kathmandu to Patna )

Tea was available @ 0.25 Nepali rupee (NPR) at lower altitude till Junbesi. 1/4 of a Nepalese rupee (NPR).. )

From Junbesi@ 0.50 Nepali rupee (NPR)till Namche. ( Just 1/2 of a Nepalese rupee (NPR) ...)

and from Namche @ 1.00 Nepali rupee (NPR)till Lobuche.

Even no tea was available beyond Lobuche,forget about accommodation.

On Menu card @ Hotel Everest View (HEV) at Shyangboche

Veg.sandwich was 25/- Nepalese rupee (NPR) ...

Veg.Fried Rice was 80/- Nepalese rupee (NPR) ...

Hotel Everest View (HEV) was the costliest hotel which was situated at 3,880m. height in the Sagarmatha National Park which was the highest located hotel in the world and commanded a spectacular view of Mt. Everest

Total Cost for 10 members was : INR.20,000/

For 42 days Pune to Pune for an Expedition to Everest Base from 9th April 78 to 20th May 1978. Was INR. 2000/- per head.

Industrialists Chandrakant Kirloskar( from Pune) , M.G. Bhat (from Mumbai )and M.P. Chitale ( C.A.) from Mumbai were the great helpful donors.

Very few hotels were there on the route.

Every one of us carried his own personal gear upto 15 kgs.

As we were out in the nature for 42 days, gathered equipment right from the rucksacks to the needle.

Carried mountaineering equipment and ration with us.

We used to prepare our daily tea/coffee / Breakfast /Lunch and Dinner on route.

We preferred home stay or hired rooms till Namche.

We hired tents from Namche and pitched every where till Gorekhshep.

No hotels were there beyond LOBUCHE.

For carrying ration and mountaineering equipment we hired porters, HAPs (high altitude porters ) and Yaks.

Glimpses of our preparations:Training camp at sinhagad fort















Just for information : The Lukla Airport is also located in the mountains, the airport is nearly 3,000 meters above ground and surrounded by sharp peaks, and the runway is dangerously short. The steep landing has resulted in several accidents.

One passenger recently described the descent as similar to “flying into a milk bottle.”
On the bright side, landing here is a good way to get a rush of adrenaline before you start your climb of Mount Everest.

Just think about the condition in 1978 , some 32 years ago.

See how old Lukla Air Strip looked like during 1978.

It used to look like :Aircraft landing at the Everest View Hotel Airstrip, ...

See This :

http://www.panoramio.com/photo_explo...rder=date_desc

See then and now Lukla Air Strip

Even as on today Lukla airport is listed in the top 10 most dangerous and worst airports in the world. ( No 9 of 10 )

See This :http://www.mainstreet.com/slideshow/...erous-airports

See this Video clip: http://www.artelino.eu/en/articles/t...ort-nepal.html

At Lukla just next to the air strip, only few dhaba like hotels were there, don’t know how dare the pilots used to land on that crazy unpaved "AIR STRIP"

Hats off to the those crazy pilots!!!



" When asked for the air strip office dhaba owner directed us to a person who was walking down the air strip.
Shree and myself went there.We were eager to know the status of our flight which was scheduled on next day.
The person took us to the nearby house and informed us that he was the person who handled the air traffic and air strip of Lukla..

It was nothing but a huge surprise for us when he mentioned that he was the radio officer as well as weather officer and also in-charge of the air strip .

Further he told us with a big smile,that he was the only person responsible for everything including swiping his own house cum ATC room, being the air traffic controller too.

Indeed a one man show

As some people are passionate about driving, biking etc,I am extremely passionate about trekking,mountaineering, para sailing and any sort adventure sport first.

I loved adventure all the time.The age factor was prominent,thus accepting challenges in life was in full swing in those days. was fascinated with the idea of "calculated risk "involved in mountaineering.

Himayala always attracted me. I never wanted to miss a single opportunity to go and hug the mighty Himalayas.
While doing extensive trekking in Sanhyadri had finished the Basic Mountaineering Course in 1974 from WHMI (Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.Now a days,it is known as Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports) Manali .

On 29th May 1978............25 years ago man stepped his first step on the top of the world!Sagarmatha / Chomolugma / Mount Everest was conquered by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tansing.To salute these legendary we "Bharat Outward Bound Pioneers " organized an expedition to Everest Base from 9th April 78 to 20th May 1978.

We were 10 members in all.
P.K Ghanekar(Leader),
Shreedhar Sadhale,
Vinayak Thorat,
Makarand Date,
Pradeep Pachhapurkar,
Ninad Mate,
Govind Yadre,
Shashi Vartak,
Gauri Thatte and Vijaya Potadar.

All like hearted people together!!!!

This was going to be a real life long experience for everyone of us.

To be continued..............

As 1978 was the 25 th year of conquering the Everest for the first time,our aim was to visit Everest base
to celebrate victorious expedition,led by John Hunt in 1953.

To celebrate the occasion we followed the same route which Sir Edmund Hillary and Mr. Tenzing Sherpa had taken to the top of Mt. Everest.

To reach Everest base from Pune, we availed almost all modes of transport.
(Road, Rail, Steamer Air transport, and trekking )

Everest View Hotel above Namche Bazar


Mt.Everest from Everest view hotel just above Namche Bazar.



Here we go......

It was way back in 1978 that we started our real journey to ‘Nagadhiraja’, at least to have glimpses of Sagarmatha / Chomolugma / Mount Everest.

We left Pune on 9th April 1978 by BROAD-GAUGE RAIL for Patna.

In Patna visited Kumrahar, the remains of an ancient city of Pataliputra.

After taking blessings of Jaiprakashji we had local sightseeing using CYCLE RIKSHAW.

Then from Patna crossed the Ganges by Railway's STEAMBOAT or STEAMSHIP to Pahelajaghat.

From Pahelajaghat it was meter gauge or a NARROW -GAUGE RAILWAY which took us to Raxaul.

While crossing boarder from Raxaul we travelled to Birganj using a HORSE CARRIAGE/ TONGA (which is a light HORSE -DRAWN CARRIAGE. )

From Birganj we utilised an old ordinary local bus of Nepali BUS SERVICE to reach Kathmandu.In those days the road condition was very bad,was narrow without any protective walls.

After reaching Nepal we were astonished to see most of the "Imported" things in front of us. Every imported thing was easily available everywhere, which was not possible in those days in India. Then we came to know that Nepal was free land and without industrialization so nothing was "Made in Nepal."

Enjoyed Kathmandu ,riding Japanies "Toyoto " / "Nissan" and what not unknown IMPORTED CARS and CYCLING to Pashupati Nath and MOTORCYCLING in Kathmandu.

Kathmandu to Lamasangu by LOCAL BUS SERVICE.

From Lamasangu to Everest Base......&.....back to Lukla was 24 days trekking.

From Lukla had a flight in small TWIN OTTER 12-PASSENGER PLANE till Kathmandu.

Flown back to Patna, India, from Kathmandu in Air India's BOEING 747.

From Patna To Pune again by INDIAN RAILWAY.

Posting few snaps though may not be that impressive ....

Swayambhunath Kathmandu Nepal





Yati Scalp, Pangboche



Nuptse from Kala Patthar



Our Team at Gorekh Shep



Internet was unknown to common people in those days.

We collected all the available information from reading few books and contacted tourism departments.We requested Harish Kapadia the renowned mountaineer from Mumbai to guide us for planning .

Harish Kapadia introduced us with his friend and Everester of 1975 Everest expedition Partemba Sherpa whom we met in Mumbai and gathered necessary information from him too.

If you want to trek in the Mt. Everest region of Nepal you have several choices to start your trek.

You can fly into the small town of Lukla giving a shortcut to some very good trekking routes, or you can do what we did.

Our trek began with a bus ride from Kathmandu to Lamosangu which was about 50 kms south of the Tibetan border on the Kodari highway, which is a little less than three hours northeast of Nepal.

From there we turned east, crossing the river Sun Kosi for Lamosangu village.

Reaching Lamosangu was a hair-raising experience.The bus ride in a little, rickety bus that really pushed the limits!

The bus had everything right from live chickens,lambs to vegetables and tents ,blankets. The bus was packed full and there were many people riding on the roof too.

The road to Lamosangu was winding and without any protective walls or fences and covered in gravel . The bus derived at the very edge of the road that dropped off all too steeply into the river way below, and rocks literally fell from the path as we drove over them!

It was just heart-throbbing & breath- taking experience.

We got down at Lamosangu 2500' (‘Long Bridge’)and within no time about 20/30 porters surrounded us and started quarreling among themselves. Every porter wanted to join the team and was eager to provide his/her services to the trekking team.The competition was very tough among them.



Arranged for the required porters.

We were on our toes early in the morning the next day.



We started our trek from Lamosangu 2500' to gain about 4000' +, with a heavy backpack around 15 kgs.

Before reaching Kaping, initial 1500' climb was quiet steep but everyone was fit & fine . Then till Thulopakhar the trek was gradual, winding through beautiful dense Pines and green fields.





The story continues...............

What should I write in appreciation? I am simply short of words. Can only say, thank you Vina-ji for sharing it with us. Waiting eagerly for the upcoming segments.

You did it! I have to come back and read this at my leisure. I am so happy.

woww vina ji,

Its amazing to see how in those days even with just first hand knowledge about the route you could dare to take up this challege!!!!!!

I actually could not go back and read it all.Delightful. Waiting for more.

Thanks biman, mridula and kunal

Posting more soon.

Interesting trip down memory lane! Thank you Vina-ji.

I am waiting for more.

Wonderful start, Vinaji! It's like reading an old classic mountain travelogue. Please continue your tale.

Such a superb post...lovely pictures and so detailed information of those early times...

You are well come theyyamdancer

mridula posting next set, stay tuned


Thanks sagarneel

We noticed lots of bird activities and could identify long billed minivet but could not click the same.

We settled our Day One at Thulopakhar and the altitude was 6000'.

Second day we started our trek towards Ningale,on the Jiri road. The construction work for the road to jiri was in progress.Due to this gravel covered,zig zag and winding road trekking became a tedious job.

Once you reach to a 8200' pass,one could observe a beautiful view of Annapurna Himal.

View on east towards Lamjura pass was fabulous.
Due to bad weather conditions we were held up there for some time. However then following the footpath through a thick Himalayan Cedar, or Deodar we could easily marched down hill towards Bushti, crossed Baluva, Biskuntol, and Kirantechhap on the way.

The forest was pretty dense and full of various rare plants and orchids .





We came across Daiteshwar Mahadeo at Namdu where we prayed for the success of our Trekking Expedition to Base of the Mt.Everest.

Kabhre was nearby, where there was a govt. agricultural unit ,which produced various seeds for cultivation and provided the same to the farmers in that region. A view of terrace gardening was impressive one.



The view of the terraced mountains was enchanting!



After visiting the center we proceeded to Yarsa.
Climb to Yarsa was very steep and every member was almost half dead carrying around 15kgs.load on his / her back pack.

On the way to Yarsa.





Once you are at Chisapani Pass you can't miss the view of two magnificent peaks, Nimbur (22831 ft) and Karyalung (21919 ft).

If the weather is good sighting of Gaurishankar, Melungtse, and Chobha Bhamare peaks can ba enjoyed.

In this area we came accross Bulbophyllum orchid too.

Also we noticed bird activity on our way to Sakrikhola.A close view of Yellow billed Blue Magpie pair made us happy but without a snap.
It was all downhill until Sakrikhola where we had our bath in the cold water.It was a damm chilly experience.



Then had a climb of about 1000'. On the way to Those we had a swinging experience on an old suspension bridge.

Suspension bridge On the way to Those.


This was a bigger market place than Ningale, had school, post office, police station and number of temples.

From Those our next day journey took place along with Khimti Khola for a while and then we reached at Shivalaya which was at about 5800 feet.



Crossed maniwalls near Buludanda and reached Devrali Pass which means you were on 9000 ft and about to enter in the Sherpa land.

Near Deorali Pass



After climbing another 1000 ft nearby ,we reached to Thodung (10,137 ft)There was a superb view of Gauri Shankar.

After visiting the famous Yak Cheese Factory and witnessing the huge Tibetan mastiff dogs about which guidebooks repeatedly warn.
It was all windy and stormy, we suffered from heavy rains till we reach to Changma,we had our night halt at Changma( Bhandar ).

Next day though it was cloudy and showering lightly, we continued our trek towards Sete.
Sete is at about (8450') one could enjoy steep descent through forest, then more gradually past terraced fields to Phedi, a small Chettri settlement.

Crossing suspension bridge and walking along river to Kenja at the junction of two rivers is something that one can't forget.

It's a bustling town with a primary school, tea houses and fabric shops.

story continues...............

Thanks Urvashi

superb