Did they summit Everest?

Rob_The_Pom · Mar 22nd, 2005, 15:11

I'm currently reading a book about the incredible story of Mallory and Irvine and there attempt to summit Everest in 1924.
They were last seen going 'strongly for the top' before disappearing, never to be seen alive again.
I was wondering what my fellow Indiamikers thought about the expedition. Did they summit? Were they at the top 19 years before Tenzing and Hiliary.

Some years ago Mallory's body was found on the mountain, it showed they were basically climbing in tweed jackets, sweaters and hobnailed boots!

The romantic in me would love to believe that they did summit, but I don't suppose we'll every know the answer; unless Irvine's body resurfaces and they find their camera.

I'd like to know what you all think!

RTP

torryquine · Mar 23rd, 2005, 01:01

Have a look at this Rob....

http://www.everestnews2004.com/mallo.../ourtheory.htm

..I think one or both probably made it, most mountain accidents happen on descent.

As for the gear they were wearing, Hillary and Tenzing didn't have much better. The HMI museum in Darjeeling has some of their stuff, including Tenzing's sheepskin mitts - the sort of thing my Mum would wear! Those were REALLY tough men.

crvlvr · Mar 23rd, 2005, 01:30

Morte info on the " mystery" here

Talking about tough men, what about the Sherpas? Until recently, the Sherpa have reaped little reward and received but minute praise for their Himalayan efforts. Sir Edmund Hillary, Reinhold Messner, Sir Chris Bonington, Jim Whittaker, Mallory and Irvine: these are all somewhat of household names in the West.

Unfortunately rare, however, is knowledge of Ang Rita, who has climbed Everest 11 times without supplemental oxygen. Or Babu Chiri, who first spent 22 hours on the summit of Everest and, the following year, made an unprecedented 16 hour 45 minute climb from Basecamp to the summit along the Southeast Ridge. Or how about Ngawang Gombu who was the first to summit Everest twice in 1963 with American Jim Whittaker and again in 1965 with an Indian expedition. And they usually do this carring loads of 60lbs (25kgs) and some times have to drag other mountaineer/tourists up to Everest.

Hippie at Heart · Mar 23rd, 2005, 02:27

Rob, i cant seem to place the excat context but Eric Shipton & Tillman have proposed some theory as well.
crvlvr, they carry 25Kgs each till about base camp, a medium size army chopper even cant carry more then 40 KG payload beyond 23,000 feet

torryquine · Mar 23rd, 2005, 03:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by crvlvr

Talking about tough men, what about the Sherpas?

..I was mostly thinking of them. Sherpa Tenzing is very much a houshold name in Britain, as was Sherpa Pertemba in the 70's when he climbed with Scott, Bonnington and the like. Most people in the UK aren't much interested in mountaineering and wouldn't know who Messner was or even Bonnington for that matter. Those who do, also know about the Sherpas and I can assure you, hold them in very great esteem.

crvlvr · Mar 23rd, 2005, 03:44

Quote:

crvlvr, they carry 25Kgs each till about base camp, a medium size army chopper even cant carry more then 40 KG payload beyond 23,000 feet

hippee_at_heart,
I wonder how they build camps higher up on the face of everest. Even in Hllary's time, 5 climbers went up to camp 9, Hillary and Tensing spend the night there .Which means the other 3 came down. I suspect, they were carrying stuff to make the camp. Why else will sherpas climb everst 11 and 12 times when once is enoyugh for most? Here is some details on high they carry loads. Info. http://www.everest.org.sg/Expedition...erpastory.html
7900M == 26,070 feet.

Torryquine is right. The climbers have always acknowledged the help of the sherpas -- especially Hillary. But they have been widely ignored by the media.

Maybe Mallory and and Irvine should have taken Sherpas up with them.

Rob_The_Pom · Mar 23rd, 2005, 04:29

The book I'm reading certainly doesn't devaluate the contribution of the Sherpas (and nor should it).
In the UK, certainly from my and my family's perspective (my family have a military history), the people of Nepal in general are held in very high regard - because of this and more so because of the Gurkas.

I've been to the HMI museum in Darjeeling - a wonderful place and I said a little a Tenzing's cremation spot.
I so want to believe that Mallory and Irvine made the summit and perhaps until it's proved otherwise I'll believe it.

I find something quite extraordinary about the early British mountaineers - they were all complete loons by modern standards. I sort of wish I'd have been one.

Hippie at Heart · Mar 28th, 2005, 02:21

crvlvr, am just a tramp in a most basic way as far wandering in Himalayas concerned, never into mountaineering seriously, so i was just comparing a machine ability as some benchmark, one never knows what humans can achieve in extraordinary places like mount Everest

Dr Funkenstein · Mar 28th, 2005, 02:36

Isn't Mallory the guy that coined the 'because it's there' phrase?

No disrespect to Hillary and Tenzing, but I'd love to believe they made it to the top, too.

What's the name of the book, Rob?

Rob_The_Pom · Mar 28th, 2005, 02:48

The book is called 'Lost on Everest - The Search for Mallory & Irvine' by Peter Firstbrook.
It's well written and an entertaining read.
It's certainly no disrespect to Hilary and Tenzing to believe and hope M & I made it to the top.
Mallory and Irvine did take Sherpas with the expedition and they were vital to the cause. Two of them died during the 1924 expedition and the book describes their contribution and tragic deaths in detail.
Mallory did come up with the 'because it's there' phrase. Apparently he was in a bad mood and was fed up with being asked the same questions all the time and gave this as a rather curt response.

Dr Funkenstein · Mar 28th, 2005, 02:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob_The_Pom

Mallory did come up with the 'because it's there' phrase. Apparently he was in a bad mood and was fed up with being asked the same questions all the time and gave this as a rather curt response.

That's pretty funny considering the almost mystical connotations people have attached to it in the meantime. If you see what I mean.

Cheers for the book recommendation - I'll see if the library can get hold of it for me.

Rob_The_Pom · Mar 28th, 2005, 02:57

I agree, it's pretty amusing that one of the most repeated quotations I've come across was caused by Mallory's bad mood!

torryquine · Mar 28th, 2005, 21:14

Another book you might find interesting is Tenzing's autobiography "Man of Everest"

By the way, anyone know the punch line to this old joke...

Why do mountaineers rope themselves together.....?

Hippie at Heart · Mar 29th, 2005, 01:00

Speaking of mountaineering ropes a Hollywood movie by the name of either Vertical Limits or Vertical Heights I couldn’t felt anything but aghast the sight of how cold drink multinationals are taking over on a sport that is simply beyond the realms of corporate understanding but guess money talks and in some cases walk in mountains as well, imagine this guy hobnobbing with a crate of Pepsi and suddenly very valiantly rushing out with rope slung across his shoulder that don’t look like anymore more longer then 10 feet to me. Even a non-climber like me could have noticed that. Perhaps I am not much of a sucker for Pepsi, eh.

Rob_The_Pom · Mar 29th, 2005, 13:54

Vertical Limit is a truly awful film!

Mar 22nd, 2005, 15:11	#1
Rob_The_Pom offcourse essentric Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Seoul, South Korea Posts: 1,291	Did they summit Everest? I'm currently reading a book about the incredible story of Mallory and Irvine and there attempt to summit Everest in 1924. They were last seen going 'strongly for the top' before disappearing, never to be seen alive again. I was wondering what my fellow Indiamikers thought about the expedition. Did they summit? Were they at the top 19 years before Tenzing and Hiliary. Some years ago Mallory's body was found on the mountain, it showed they were basically climbing in tweed jackets, sweaters and hobnailed boots! The romantic in me would love to believe that they did summit, but I don't suppose we'll every know the answer; unless Irvine's body resurfaces and they find their camera. I'd like to know what you all think! RTP __________________ The solution to your troubles is at the bottom of a glass

Mar 23rd, 2005, 01:01	#2
torryquine Oilfield Trash! Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 700	Have a look at this Rob.... http://www.everestnews2004.com/mallo.../ourtheory.htm ..I think one or both probably made it, most mountain accidents happen on descent. As for the gear they were wearing, Hillary and Tenzing didn't have much better. The HMI museum in Darjeeling has some of their stuff, including Tenzing's sheepskin mitts - the sort of thing my Mum would wear! Those were REALLY tough men. __________________ http://werenotafraid.com/

Mar 28th, 2005, 02:36	#9
Dr Funkenstein Joolay !!! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Manali, Himachal Pradesh Posts: 854	Isn't Mallory the guy that coined the 'because it's there' phrase? No disrespect to Hillary and Tenzing, but I'd love to believe they made it to the top, too. What's the name of the book, Rob? __________________ Out There Somewhere : My Travel Blog.

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Mar 23rd, 2005, 01:30	#3
crvlvr Guru Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Hollywood Posts: 4,474	Morte info on the " mystery" here Talking about tough men, what about the Sherpas? Until recently, the Sherpa have reaped little reward and received but minute praise for their Himalayan efforts. Sir Edmund Hillary, Reinhold Messner, Sir Chris Bonington, Jim Whittaker, Mallory and Irvine: these are all somewhat of household names in the West. Unfortunately rare, however, is knowledge of Ang Rita, who has climbed Everest 11 times without supplemental oxygen. Or Babu Chiri, who first spent 22 hours on the summit of Everest and, the following year, made an unprecedented 16 hour 45 minute climb from Basecamp to the summit along the Southeast Ridge. Or how about Ngawang Gombu who was the first to summit Everest twice in 1963 with American Jim Whittaker and again in 1965 with an Indian expedition. And they usually do this carring loads of 60lbs (25kgs) and some times have to drag other mountaineer/tourists up to Everest.

Mar 23rd, 2005, 02:27	#4
Hippie at Heart Born Epicure Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: India Posts: 322	Rob, i cant seem to place the excat context but Eric Shipton & Tillman have proposed some theory as well. crvlvr, they carry 25Kgs each till about base camp, a medium size army chopper even cant carry more then 40 KG payload beyond 23,000 feet

Mar 23rd, 2005, 04:29	#7
Rob_The_Pom offcourse essentric Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Seoul, South Korea Posts: 1,291	The book I'm reading certainly doesn't devaluate the contribution of the Sherpas (and nor should it). In the UK, certainly from my and my family's perspective (my family have a military history), the people of Nepal in general are held in very high regard - because of this and more so because of the Gurkas. I've been to the HMI museum in Darjeeling - a wonderful place and I said a little a Tenzing's cremation spot. I so want to believe that Mallory and Irvine made the summit and perhaps until it's proved otherwise I'll believe it. I find something quite extraordinary about the early British mountaineers - they were all complete loons by modern standards. I sort of wish I'd have been one.

Mar 28th, 2005, 02:21	#8
Hippie at Heart Born Epicure Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: India Posts: 322	crvlvr, am just a tramp in a most basic way as far wandering in Himalayas concerned, never into mountaineering seriously, so i was just comparing a machine ability as some benchmark, one never knows what humans can achieve in extraordinary places like mount Everest

Mar 28th, 2005, 02:48	#10
Rob_The_Pom offcourse essentric Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Seoul, South Korea Posts: 1,291	The book is called 'Lost on Everest - The Search for Mallory & Irvine' by Peter Firstbrook. It's well written and an entertaining read. It's certainly no disrespect to Hilary and Tenzing to believe and hope M & I made it to the top. Mallory and Irvine did take Sherpas with the expedition and they were vital to the cause. Two of them died during the 1924 expedition and the book describes their contribution and tragic deaths in detail. Mallory did come up with the 'because it's there' phrase. Apparently he was in a bad mood and was fed up with being asked the same questions all the time and gave this as a rather curt response.

Mar 28th, 2005, 02:57	#12
Rob_The_Pom offcourse essentric Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Seoul, South Korea Posts: 1,291	I agree, it's pretty amusing that one of the most repeated quotations I've come across was caused by Mallory's bad mood!

Mar 28th, 2005, 21:14	#13
torryquine Oilfield Trash! Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 700	Another book you might find interesting is Tenzing's autobiography "Man of Everest" By the way, anyone know the punch line to this old joke... Why do mountaineers rope themselves together.....?

Mar 29th, 2005, 01:00	#14
Hippie at Heart Born Epicure Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: India Posts: 322	Speaking of mountaineering ropes a Hollywood movie by the name of either Vertical Limits or Vertical Heights I couldn’t felt anything but aghast the sight of how cold drink multinationals are taking over on a sport that is simply beyond the realms of corporate understanding but guess money talks and in some cases walk in mountains as well, imagine this guy hobnobbing with a crate of Pepsi and suddenly very valiantly rushing out with rope slung across his shoulder that don’t look like anymore more longer then 10 feet to me. Even a non-climber like me could have noticed that. Perhaps I am not much of a sucker for Pepsi, eh.

Mar 29th, 2005, 13:54	#15
Rob_The_Pom offcourse essentric Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Seoul, South Korea Posts: 1,291	Vertical Limit is a truly awful film!

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