Chandra Valley - walking/cycling advice please.

pavinder

Last year I travelled through the Kinnaur and Spiti Valleys, did a short 4 day trek, and on the bus back from Kaza to Manali was struck by the incredible beauty of the Chandra Valley, between Battal and Gramphu.

I can't find any information on trekking in this area (other than higher treks like Hampta Pass), and I don't recall seeing any sign of villages along the road - just the occasional wandering goatherd.

This year (in August) I'd love to spend a few days in the area, but not climbing the high passes and lugging high altitude equpiment, just gently following the path of the river, taking photos, and looking up at the mountains, occasionally climbing up a few hundred metres for some views, but essentially following the road path. Ideally I'd rent a bike (as in bicycle, not motor) and take it into the valley by bus so I could cover more ground in the few days.

Does anyone have recommendations or info on the area - any places to find overnight shelter/food? Would it be easy and safe enough just to catch a bus up and spend a few days wandering with warm clothes and a few basic supplies?
Finally any bicycle rental information (including prices) would be incredibly helpful.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Per

We cycled through some years ago, http://www.lowdin.nu/MTB/MTB-Himalaya.html, wonderful area, as long as you are on the road there are small hotels that cater to the passing traffic. Triloknath, a temple, could be a nice excursion from the main road, never did it that far myself.

pavinder

Thanks for the reply and recommendation. Looks like a great journey you did.
Triloknath could be nice, although at this stage I think I'll only be heading through the Battal-Gramphu section, but maybe a few extra days..!

Any ideas on bike rental anyone? The closest I can find is http://www.magicmountainadventures.co m/ but can't find any further info - prices/quality/etc.

Per

It is best to bring your own mountainbike if you want a good bike that you can trust.

pavinder

Agreed, however I'm coming to India for over a month, travelling all over the country by train and just want to do a quick 3 or 4 day cycle trip - bringing my bike halfway around the world isn't an option this time.

Per

Indian bikes tend to be clonkers, don´t think they make any bikes yet that are even close to normal standards. They are ok to rent for a day to ride around town, I even owned a Hero once when I lived in Nepal, but I think it might be a little hard to find one that is fit for what you want to do. I think your best bet would be in Manali, if they have rental bikes.

Chris S

We are cycling in the area in October and after leaving Leh are wondering about taking a short cut from Baralacha La south along the upper Chandra valley to Batal to the Spiti road.
We realise we may be walking some of the time but think it could be done in 3 days or so (trekkers seem to take 4 days at around 5 hours a day, going upsteam, north). It's a bit late in the season and we do wonder whether doing so without a guide would be foolhardy. Has anyone done the trek and can they recall if it was one clear path that would be fun coming down with a loaded pushbike, or a slog?
Sticking to the Manali Highway via Kelong would of course be no great chore, but it would be fun to explore off it too and this 60?km stage looks doable.

thanks

Chris S

Per

Check out Vistet´s posts in this thread, he was there in late September, and it was really cold, snow fall, etc.

Trekking to chandra tal and barlacha la

Don´t know how you are biking, if you have some kind of support, but I would not do it with a bike loaded with luggage. An option could be to return via Mari and Tso Moriri, on the roads, we did that some years ago, lots of fun, but October seems a bit late. Some photos are on http://www.lowdin.nu/MTB/Lehtomanali.html

Chris S

Thanks Per, maybe we'll leave Chandra for a foot trek then.

return via Mari and Tso Moriri, on the roads

Yes, I was wondering about this one (I have the very nice Olizane maps). Do you mean up the Indus valley from Upshi to Mahe, then west (via a drop to Moriri) to Tso Kar and the Mari plains back on the main highway?
South of Moriri is a dead end, yes?

I think this woman was triking there: http://himalayabytricycle.blogspot.co m
Some lovely pics.

Chris

Per

Yes, one leaves the main road at Mahe, then across Kiagar La to Tso Moriri, and then back across the same pass and on via Polakongka La to Tso Kar. You are already so high that the passes do not too feel strenuous.

Yes, I think it would be extremely strenuous, even pointless to do with a loaded bike when the season is optimal, e.g., August, in October it could be down right dangerous, as there can be snow fall, etc. However, if you leave the luggage in Karzok it would be fine singletrack to Kyangdom, a possible day trip to consider.

Chris S

Thanks again.

Tell me, where is Kiagar La in relation to the Kiagar lake? I could not pin it down on www and Olizane puts it to one side. Its not Namshang La (Nusgur La), is it?

I was reading the Parang La thread and see what you mean about the trail to Spiti valley. Another one to leave for later.

Ch

Per

It is just above Kiagar lake, between that lake and Mahe, unlike Tso Moriri it is not much of a lake.

Chris S

Yes, I think it would be extremely strenuous, even pointless to do [Prang La] with a loaded bike when the season is optimal, e.g., August, in October it could be down right dangerous...

We did actually meet a pair of Swiss in Leh who just did it (as part of a long loop thru Zanskar, etc) - and him with a trailer-chariot too (so he could run fill suspension and carry 15kg of dried food).

Not surprisingly they had quite a time of it, stuck 10 days in Kaza snows in Sept?, tried Parang with donkeys but they sank in the snow, and then just kept at it with porters until they got over the top. Whatever river it is up there, it was dry and rideable and they got to Korzok and so Leh a lot thinner and a bit ill.

For us October turned out to be great on the M-L highway and down thru Spiti - but I presume it was unusual and we were lucky.

Ch