Bhrighu Lake - A walk to a lake...

Ashveen

6 months since my last trek to Tungnath in Dec 07, trekking bug again besieged me and we started planning another one in June. Rajan and me started planning for”Valley of flowers” but then deferred it to Aug knowing that winters had just finished. I started searching for something which was lesser known and explored and found information on Bhrighu lake. Lake is at an altitude of approx. 4300meters, and lies east of Rohtang pass, and posses’ holy and spiritual feeling for the locals around. Googling didn’t resulted in much on this lake, information was available, but in bits and pieces.

13th June 08 (Day0)
We were gang of 5 - Anupam G, Sandeep, Rajan, I and Ravi D, who just managed to join in at the last moment. We left Delhi on June 13th after office hours and reached Manali around 10:30 next morning; right away we approached Mr. Negi – Organizer of our trip. He introduced us to the accompanying party, to our surprise they were 4, main guide (Kaante), an assistant guide (Deewan) and two Nepalese porters.



Kaante our guide


14th June 08 (Day1)
Setting off at 1 p.m. after a hurried lunch, we visited Vashishta temple and started our trek from there at around 1:15. Standing on the hill step we saw the mountain we were supposed to climb and it thoroughly looked like a “cliff hanger” – we charged ourselves and started pushing off.
The first 1-2 kms was sheer joyless trudging, until we had gained some height, it was unknowing acclimatization that we were getting through. Trail was amazingly lush green, slowly we were moving away from the hustle and bustle of Manali. The last 2km stretch was the killer! It was steeper and with the day and your energy ebbing, you feel dead. After 4 hours of tiring climb around 5:15 we reached the camping site for the first night – We were at around 3000 meters (I missed not having an altimeter, though planned to have one before next trip).



Camping site on first day

Kaante (main guide) served hot tea followed by soups, camps were pitched in before sun was down. There were 3 tents in total – 2 for we 5 folks and 1 for guide, porters made a local make shift arrangements for themselves. In my life I had never spent a night in a 5x6 tent with 2 more sharing it, under conditions that was blessing.

It was my first experience of staying in a camp in Jungle and it was worth spending night it there, silences prevailed proceedings only to be disturbed by “human animals”. Kannte and group prepared – Daal, rice, hot chapaaties and sabzi – food was exceedingly tasty and served hot, delicacy it was.



Our bedroom for 2 nights

15th June 08 (Day2)
Moring for us started at 5:00, weather was clear and pleasant, I looked for a few “wild fresh strawberries” and after a long time had my prelim breakfast even before having the brush . Around 6:30 we were served fresh breads and omlates. Day’s journey started at 7:10 in the morning and there was no respite from the height that were gaining, at times the slopes were more than 45degrees, testing our limits and endurance. Almost after an hours trekking paradise on earth it was, we could see mountains dotted with exotic flowers of various colours - green, white, yellow, blue and purple. In front of us ran the valley and behind us were the snow-capped mountains, with glaciers melting turning into waterfalls and the water trickling by in small streams that allow you to hear the water gurgling. Views were unreal, verdant green all around, the occasional early flower peeping through.



Flowers all over

Around 11:45 we were near “Pandu ropa” – we were bliss by green meadows covered with white and yellow flowers, sheeps and horses grazing all around – Just heavenly feeling. Soon weather turned overcast and we could sense that rain was just around the corner. We halted there and Kaante prepared food for us, again amazed as he served us fresh and hot paranthaas, those were the best ones we all had in our lives, followed by hot tea (Thank God!!!). Till we finished our lunch weather had different mood and rain started to pour, it constantly and consistently drizzled for next 5 hours. We were already more than 3500meters high.



Almost reaching Pandu Ropa

Rain was hitting us at 25-30 degrees and raincoats were not effective, trek was not tough but those conditions tested us. After 3 hours of “rain” trek finally kaante decided to put camp near a water source from where Bhrighu Lake was almost at 1-1.5 hours walk. We were more than happy as none of us could walk further, we were drenched and hands were freezing. Very fast Kaante pitched tents so that we could change our drenched cloths, but rain didn’t even spare our cloths in rucksacks. That day we decided to have we all five spend night in one 5x6 tent, and even that was more than comfortable. It was windy and at times we thought we shall be fighting gallantly to keep tents from collapsing. It was freezing cold outside, Kaante served us hot soup and decided to prepare food while there was sunlight. Rain stopped around 6, we some how gathered courage to come out of tents – it was amazingly beautiful. We sat there for a few minutes in the middle of the vast expanse, and surrendered ourselves to the radiating beauty of the place. Fortunately, we had the full place to ourselves, so peaceful and tranquil. We looked in all directions and the view was mind-blowing and it felt great. Words are difficult to describe honestly, the experience we had.



Camping site – 2nd Day

On Rajan’s request kaante served us “fried vegetable rice” for dinner, other than my last China trip it was the only occasion when I had my dinner at 7 in the evening.



And we had a friend

16th June 08 (Day3)
Early in the morning most of us were awake, but no one could manage to go out of tent, it was very cold. We waited sun to appear and around 6 in the morning we managed to peep out of tents, weather was clear and we could see snow peaks mountains. Knowing we were running short of time we decided to push ourselves without having breakfast. First hour was tough – very tough instead – we were climbing at more than 60 degrees, after crossing a couple of steep mountains we were welcomed by glaciers. At some places we decided to attempt another route, clambering over boulders, scrambling across loose stones, hanging onto slender branches on the way.



Crossing Glacier



Almost Reaching Lake

Despite a new morning we were not “fresh pair of legs”, we all were carrying 3 nights of tiredness along with us, and soon that was apparent. It took innumerable stops and an interminable time to cover the distance of approx 2-3 kms. Ice sheet welcomed us at many places. It had been a long time since I had glissaded on glaciers. We stepped gingerly on the ice, crossed slowly and with exceeding care; Kaante was leading the way and making trail for us. It a spectacular trail - hardly a human footstep to disturb the path. Last half a kilometer was snow only, we were impatient when we reached the last dangerous glacier and after crossing that we were already committed to “The Bhrighu Lake”. It was 10 in the morning and it took almost 3 hours to reach lake.




Lake – almost frozen


Lake was frozen, almost. Sun didn’t favour us, it was foggy and cloudy all around. We took a few photos and bottled holy water from lake. Kannte suggested staying for few more minutes as he predicted sun shine soon, all of us wanted to stay but it was more than freezing cold. The ridge around the lake offers a 360degrees view of the range around which we regretted not seeing due to cloudy weather. Peaks of the Pir Panjal and Dhaula-dhar, the Lahaul triangle bet¬ween the Chandra and the Bhaga rivers and even the more distant mountains in Spiti can be seen from here.



The Gang

At 10:20 we started our journey towards civilization, glaciers one after another gave us no respite, slopes made it really tough to walk through them. Focusing every step on snow drains more energy and after an hours walk we were completely exhausted and drained off energy. On a couple of glaciers, we were walking along a very narrow ledge with the mountain slopes on one side and the valley on the other.
It was almost 12 in the noon, and after 4:30 hours of continues up n down walk and now we well deserved a halt. Though none of was wanted food we were swerved hot and tasty pasta. Rain again threatened us for few minutes before coming to a complete halt.



Another Glacier to cross

Finally we started trekking down - 2:30 PM
I slipped while we were crossing the last glacier; and saw blood streaming out of left hand. Some sharp object or stone had made a big 4-5 cms of cut on my arm; Kaante provided local first aid, next day back in Delhi I got 4 stitches. If trekking up is tough, going down is tougher and indeed was the case here. We already were walking for more than 6 hours when we hit “Rola Kholi”. Place was exceptionally beautiful and is preferred for campimg if you are trekking from Gulaba. The ambience was perfect, gentle breeze, scented flowers, the blue sky above frilly clouds and a sweeping view of snow-clad peaks.




Rola Kholi – Amazingly beautiful



Crossing river

Trek from Rola Kholi place was relatively much simpler; just plan walk through the green meadows till Gulaba. We had to cross 1 small river and 2 streams on the way. Sun was almost down when we hit road around 7 in the evening at Gulaba. A couple of sites recommend “trek to Bhrighu lake” as moderate, but ‘surprisingly’ it was the toughest I ever did, we all were exhausted to death, but then it was the most beautiful paths I ever walked in my life.



Almost reaching Gulaba

Beauty of the place was mesmerizing and unreal. Trek was tough, adventurous and a life time experience for all of us, this was my first experience of staying in tents at those heights, but was worth making all efforts. End of it, we all were dead tiered, packed our rucksacks back in the vehicle and started journey back towards Delhi with a promise of coming back to these hills for another trek soon.

Important information
Trek route - Vashishta – Pandu ropa - Bhrighu lake (4270 meters) – Rola Kholi - Gulaba village – 3 days.
Good camping sites – Pandu Ropa and Rola Kholi
No tea stalls/dhaaba/village throughout the trek route.
Best time – June 1st Week to Mid Sept. (Lake is frozen till July first week)

More pics at <http://picasaweb.google.com/nkothiyal/BhrighuLakeTrek>

spicetrekker

Ashveen. Great write-up and pictures. surprised to see one of the guys in shorts !!!

delhiwala

Very Nice Report !

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Sleepy

Good to see that you have at last put up the travelogue here. Great pictures and great narration. Keep it coming.

And yes welcome to indiamike.
Soumik

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chits007

Nice Report

Sophia Akoijam

One of my colleague is from Manali and he has been telling me about Bhrigu Lake. I have searched a lot on the net but all the details were sketchy..Thanks for the write up and make it accessible to us

Sajish

Nice report.

cute_lilhunk

This is definitely very useful - as not enough info is available elsewhere. Thank you...

zsonia2993

Hey nice write up... it brought back memories from the time when I trekked to Bhrighu lake from Manali long time ago (in July 2002).

Sophia Akoijam

If one was to do the trek in July, would it be feasible?? how about rain?? would the lake have clear water instead of just ice??

lakshit

Hi Ashveen,
Wonderful writeup and trek pics. Infact I had done the same trek from Gulaba side in June 2005. Bought back old memories

Cheers
Lakshit

sdsudarsan

Ashveen,

Wonderful indeed!

Do you have any other info about this - historic, spiritual, etc. The name itself belongs to a rishi with an extra eye.

traveljunkie1

Great write up Ashveen - planning a trip sometime next month - this will definitely come handy

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