Back from Pindari--Thanks Indiamike

#1
Nov 17th, 2008, 17:43 miles to go before I sleep
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  • arinhere is offline
#1

Back from Pindari--Thanks Indiamike

Hello all,

I just finished my Pndari Trek and here is the trip details. I'm writing this kind of details for the first time so be gentle

Day-1 & 2

After so much discussions and meetings ultimately we [Me (Arin), Atanu, Joy, Soumya, Rajdeep] board on Upasana Express from Howrah on 31st October, 12.50 PM. Now our first destination is up to Bareilly. We reached Bareilly at 11.40 AM next day and from there hired a car upto Haldwani, which is approx 100 KMs from Bareilly. It took 3 hours for us to reach there.

After reaching the hotel, we all took a fresh bath and went out to hire a car up to Bageshwar, for the next day, where we supposed to meet our guide Naveen. We settled our car, it was a Quails, as we were 5 people and have lots of luggage with us so we took the big one. It cost 2200 INR, of course after much bargaining.

Day-3

We started early this day at 6.30 AM. Our car driver Naveen (coincidentally) was a jolly guy. He described us the various postures of Kumaon in various seasons, on the way.

Naveen took the route to Bageshwar via Almora, Kaushani and Baijnath. We get our first snow clad mountain view from Kaushani. It was an outstanding view.

We reached Bageshwar at 1.30 PM, met our guide Naveen and hire another car up to Loharkhet. It cost 900 INR for full car booking.

We started for Loharkhet and on the way took our lunch at Bharari, bought some cigarettes for those forthcoming days and reached Loharkhet KVMN at 4.30 PM.

I have never been Kumaon before and must say that it is beautiful, as well as KVMN rest house. We met our porter there, who was supposed to carry our tents, dry foods, and rations for camping days. His name was Deba, he was a local boy from Khati village.

During resting inside the magnificent Himalaya we made our plan up to Pindari and return within seven days with Naveen and Deba.

We took our dinner early and had gone to sleep, as we planned to start trek early next morning.

Day-4

We were ready for the start, but only one thing left incomplete, which is to take permit from Forrest dept. It took 340 INR for the permit [5 of us with guide and porter].

Our target of this day is up to Dhakuri, a 13 KMs steep uphill and 1 KM downhill. It’s been quite hectic for some of us, but we managed that with an average speed of 2Kms/ hour.

On the way we took our breakfast with Maggy and Tea. Over there we met a middle aged couple, who were tried to spend their vacation on mountains and walks along without any destinations. After some gossips we started again and reached Dhakuri top at approx 1 PM and got the first close view of mountains. The snow clad Nanda Khot, Panwali Dwar were facing towards us. It was magnificent.

We met another Bengali group over there, who were returning from Pindari, they informed us about bears on the route to Phurkia from Maliaghot (a small place at a distance of 6 KMS from Khati), as they have seen 3 on the way. Anyway last one KM is descending from the top.

Dhakuri KVMN is quite picturistique within the lap of beautiful nature. If I have no destination I will sure spend some days over there. We took our lunch at Dhakuri, with daal and chawal and spend the remaining evening by seeing the mountains.

Day-5

We took our morning tea with some biscuits and started our journey. It was the most hectic day for us in the whole trek, as we decided to cover total 21 KMS distance from Dhakuri to Dwali.

First there is some descending from Dhakuri to Khati. As we approached towards Khati the pindar river came into visibility. Even the Sundardunga route can be visible from there.

We have made the first 9 KMS within 3 and half hour and reached Khati at 11 AM, took our breakfast from a local tea shop with maggy and tea and started for Dwali at 11.45 AM. We came to know that the old trekker’s route from Khati to Dwali is now being hardly used by trekkers and a short route came into play, through the jungle, which reduced 1 KM on the way. As dark cloud was roaming around us, so we decided to take the short one. Naveen told us if it’s not rained today the weather will create problem and if it is then we may get some fresh snow on the glacier.

On way we get the beautiful Pindar river bed. Journey was continued like this manner up to Maliaghot. It was a 6 KM distance from Khati village. We reached there by 2.30 PM and took some tea. Some of the local people told us that they have fresh lamb meat. We took one leg for 100 INR. Deba was very happy for the meat and took the responsibility to cook the preparation for our dinner.

We made the last 6 KMS together [as we heard about the bear] and reached Dwali at 5.30 PM and luckily it started raining after that. It was a very tiring day for all of us. We chat with Naveen about some of his trekking and mountaineering experiences until we get the dinner. Got our dinner at 8.30 PM, the lamb meat was really delicious.

Day-6

What a beautiful morning it was. Completely clear blue sky, not a single piece of cloud is in visibility. On the other hand Nanda Khot shines with the sun on her shoulder. It’s magnificent.

Our plan for this day was to reach zero point and camp over there and on the next day morning to visit the glacier.

So we started according to our plan. It was to total 11 KMS distance from Dwali to Zero Point. Dwali to Phurkia [5KMS] and Phurkia to Zero point [6 KMS]. There is a bit tough rising up to Phurkia. Not tough throughout but in places. As we approached towards Phurkia the jungle path vanished slowly and the Nanda Khot came bigger in visible with some awesome landscape. We made Phurkia within 2.30 Hours and took our breakfast with Khichri. It was very costly at Phurkia, as it took 40 INR / plate.

Anyway after resting sometime we started again for our final destination today i.e. to zero point, as we planned to camp over there. As we approached towards zero point the whole 360 panorama open in front of our eyes. The whole mountain range is in front of us. Baljuri, Panwali Dwar, Nanda Khot, Changu and Nanda Ghunti are visible from this range. It’s mesmerizing. We spend sometimes in front of this great Himalayan landscape and started again. We reached at Baba’s ashram at 3.30 PM.

But that day Deba had some another plan. Deba was quite friendly with Baba and he managed to get a hut near Baba’s ashram. We kept our sack at the hut and visit Baba’s ashram. He gave us tea and we have had chat with him over 1.30 hours about various matters.

Baba gave us dinner at 6 PM. We have it and returned to our hut as Baba was to start his Puja. Within the hut we gossiping and chatting up to 10 PM. By this time Naveen made tea.

Before going to bed we came outside the hut and came to see all snow clad white peaks. We didn’t believe our eyes as it was looking fascinating within the moon light. Unfortunately our digicam didn’t able to take those snaps.

Day-7

We wake up early in the morning and visit Baba’s ashram, there he gave us tea and after that we started for the last 1 KM up to glacier, as we wanted to be the first of the day to visit the glacier. Within next 20 mints we were in front of Pindari Glacier. It was looking wonderful. Though we didn’t able to touch the glacier, as a huge landslide made a valley between the glacier and the current spot.

We made some photo shoot over there and returned at Baba’s ashram after 1 hour. Another Bengali group and 2 foreigner groups were on their way to Pindari then.

Baba gave us Suji to eat. We visit Baba’s temple then say goodbye to Baba and started for Dwali then. By 3.30 PM we have reached Dwali.

Day-8

We have redesigned our plan as some our team members has got pain in their knees. So we broke our return journey in short distances.

Our destination for that day was up to Khati village. It’s a pretty simple walk until the shortcut path was arrived. As we didn’t try the original trekkers route first time, that’s why we decided to try that one. It was a steep 2 KMS uphill and remaining 1 KM downhill.

It was a bit uncomfortable for our friends to make that uphill but together we made it. We reached Khati at 3 PM and had our lunch and Deba’s residence. They were really innocent and wonderful peoples.

We spend the rest of the day at the rest house by chatting with the local peoples, had our dinner with egg carry and roti.

Day-9

This is a real easy day of trekking, as we decided to camp at Dhakuri. But we didn’t know a big surprise was waiting for us on the way. This was the day when we met the famous Himalayan Mountaineer Mr. Harish Kapadia. Who was returning from his trek. We came to know that he was planned to camp at the campsite near dhakuri top. So we decided to go and camp over there.

We reached at the camp site at 2.30 PM and the rest of the evening we spend by chatting with Mr. Kapadia about his various experiences on Indian Himalayas.

At night we made campfire and enjoyed the before last day of our trek.

Day-10

Our plan for the day is to reach at Gwaldam, via Loharkhet and Bageshwar. Mr. Kapadia was planned to stay at Bagehwar that day and the next next day start for Pithoragarh. So we did some photo shoot with him and say good bye to this great man.

We reached Loharkhet at 12.15 PM, It was an easy downhill, took car from there and reached Bageshwar at 3 PM, had our lunch over there and started for Garur [24 KMS from Bageshwar] and from there to Gwaldam [24 KMS from Garur].

We got some beautiful view of Trishul on the way to Gwaldam. Naveen arranged us a room in GMVN rest house at Gwaldam. We said good bye to Naveen and has gone out to hire a car to Hardwar, from where supposed to board on train.

It took 3000 INR to hire a full car up to Hardwar from Gwaldam.

Day-11

We started early in the morning and after a drive of 10 hours we reached Hardwar. We found a good hotel near Holy Ganges and took a fresh bath at first. In the night after dinner we visited the Ganga Ghat and spend sometimes over there.

Day-12

We wake up late this day and after having lunch we planned to visit Rishikesh. After visiting Ramjhola, Laxmanjhola we came back to Hardwar at evening and spend some time at Ganga Ghat.

Day-13

We wake up late again and after having breakfast planned to do some local site seen. In the evening we came to see the Ganga Arati and after that did some shopping for our families.

Day-14 & 15

We board on Upasana Express at 12.05 PM from Hardwar and reached Howrah next day at 3.30 PM.
#2
Nov 17th, 2008, 17:44 miles to go before I sleep
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  • arinhere is offline
#2
I am sorting out the pictures and will upload and post soon
#3
Nov 18th, 2008, 17:51 miles to go before I sleep
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  • arinhere is offline
#3
Hello all,

Here is the album

http://photobucket.com/pindari
#4
Dec 1st, 2008, 15:19 Maha Guru Member
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  • santos_g15 is offline
#4
good lord u had a chance to meet harish kapadia.i have read about him a lot in web.great description.keep trekking and keep writing.
#5
Dec 1st, 2008, 15:47 miles to go before I sleep
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  • arinhere is offline
#5
yeah we were very lucky to met such a great person and heard various experiences directly from the horses mouth

#6
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  • roy_supratim05 is offline
#6

Thumbs up

Congrats Arin for your trip to Pindari. Very good and informative writings, should help the interested guys for that route. Nice pix too. GOD gifted you the luck to meet Mr. Kapadia, legend person. Keep on.
Supratim

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#7
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  • sanatkumar is offline
#7
The description about Sundar Dhunga trek is very much informational. Thanks for the post.
Sanat Sarkar

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