Advice on Kalanag and Finding a Guide?

mdredd

My brother and I are planning to climb a 6,000m not too technical peak in India in May 2008. I have a number of questions for anyone with experience in the Gahrwal region.

We are planning to use an outfitter/guide for this trip since we are new to this region. Both of us are experienced rock climbers/mountaineers at lower elevations (USA lower 48 including Rainier etc.). I have found a possible guide - but how does one know in advance who is reputable, properly outfitted, etc. before sending the deposit and paying? Do you ask for references and can you avoid losing money to any dishonest outfits? Advice appreciated on this.

Also looking for advice/beta about Kalanag in May. It looks like a moderate, non-technical snow slog (with perhaps some ice/hardpack). Is this true? Is there snow all the way to the summit in May? We would like to connect with someone who has climbed this peak, or get advice on similar peaks in that region.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Dilliwala

Take a look in the thread below. There's a bit of info there:

Mt. Kalanag

Crickneck

mdredd,

I was trekking last May in Har-ki-Dun valley and our guide Jagadish was mentioning something about him having taken expeditions up Kalanag or thereabouts. He was good and resourceful. PM me if you need his contact details.

__________________
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mdredd

Crickneck, Thanks for the offer. I am interested in following up with your guide for info. I have already found a guide whom I like quite a bit - and his references are really good - so I am also getting some info from him. I wanted to find Kalanag on Google Earth but couldn't find coordinates anywhere (so that would be great if you know them).
Thanks for assistance.
Best,
mdredd

Dilliwala

Here u go:

http://wikimapia.org/#lat=31.188721&...13&l=0&m=h&v=2

mdredd

Thank you for this info... looking at Google Earth view!

deanallison

Hi did you have any luck finding a guide ???
also looking at climbing this year!!

deanallison

Can you give me info on a guide on Kalanag looking at doing this year

Thanks

mdredd

Hi. I just got back from India. My trip included some trekking in Leh/Ladakh, ashram in Rishikesh, and a climb of Kalanag in W. Garwahl Himalaya. I was very satisfied with the Guide that I found and can provide details and references if you are interested. His name is Raja Mukherjee (sp? on last name); and his company is AdventureMania www.adventuremania.com He has a small, personalized guide service and is willing to tailor a trip to your specs. His team of sherpas/porters is a strong core group; and he can arrange the porters and logistics for any climb you select. Kalanag was pretty wild for a tame climb - due to the early monsoon conditions this year. We deviated from the standard route due to a major change in the terrain (avalanche on standard route) and ended up with a very interesting climb.

Let me know if I can provide more info - I'd be glad to do that.
Good luck with your trip plans. Onward.
mdredd

deanallison

Hi
Thanks for the info I will contact him
can I ask how long would you allow to do the trek
and what roughly was your route.

Very grateful for info.

mdredd

Sure, here's what we did. Drove to Sankri (entrance to Har Ki Doon, which you may already be familiar with). Trek day 1 to Taluka, trek day 2 to Seema, trek day 3 to Ruinsara Tal, and trek day 4 to BaseCamp on rim of glacier. The total distance seemed to be about 35km- with significant elevation change (net gain of 5000' from Sankri to BaseCamp). From Basecamp at 4100m we had planned to use two higher camps; but had to change this due to new route and heavy snow accumulation due to monsoon-like weather (this early in the season). So, we set three higher camps over the course of three days. We stayed to the climbers' right of the glacier on Kalanag, just inside the corniced right edge of the ridge. Our high camp was at 18,500, just below a major ice/serac field with numerous crevasses to work around.

If you look at the Wikimapia link: http://wikimapia.org/#lat=31.0282246...11&l=0&m=h&v=2

you can see the entire route... there are marks for Sankri, Seema, Ruinsara Tal... and then you can follow the glacier to the summit of Kalanag (the marker is a little bit off of the actual summit... you can see the black face that gives this peak its name).

I would say that the trip, starting at Delhi, would take between 17-19 days, using the type of acclimatization and high camps that we used. This seemed good for me and two other climbers... a fourth got AMS and did not make it out of basecamp. The trekking is moderately strenuous at times, but a good prep for the climb. I would rate the climb as pretty easy in good weather; but it was pretty hard in the deep snows that we encountered... very slow going and short weather windows for us with snow to whiteout conditions by midday. If you go in the Fall it should be better.

In all likelihood you would use the new route that we used... vs. the old one on the climbers left side of the glacier. We crossed over at about 16,000' through and easy crossing. Depending on conditions and your speed you may need the higher camp as we did.

Hope this is a helpful start. Let me know if you need/want more information.
Regards,
mdredd

deanallison

Great info thanks

do you know if it is possible to climb Kalanag in September October!

mdredd

Yes. I believe Oct/Nov are considered good months for this climb. I think this is the best time. We were a bit early in the year and got into the heavy snows. Raja takes parties in that area in Oct/Nov, so he will be able to give details. Good luck. I'd be interested in hearing how it goes. Cheers. m

deanallison

Thanks m for info will let you know how it goes.