A Trek to Pindari Glacier & Kafni Glacier
Thats nice you have been able to touch base with Debu and we can see that now can have more clarity on your doubts regarding camping near Zero Point.
Good luck and do keep us posted
-
rgds,
Sabya
http://sabyasachi.travellerspoint.com/14/
Good luck and do keep us posted
-rgds,
Sabya
http://sabyasachi.travellerspoint.com/14/
Quote:
1000-1500Rs per day is too much for Pindari/Kafni glacier trek...I did Kafni glacier trek solo(Oct 2009,with porter) and paid 250Rs per day with food..Its a simple trek and I dont think you need a guide on this route, untill unless you are doing it winter season.
Originally Posted by Sabyasachi Bardoloi 
Thats nice you have been able to touch base with Debu and we can see that now can have more clarity on your doubts regarding camping near Zero Point.
Good luck and do keep us posted-
rgds,
Sabya
http://sabyasachi.travellerspoint.com/14/
Thats nice you have been able to touch base with Debu and we can see that now can have more clarity on your doubts regarding camping near Zero Point. Good luck and do keep us posted
-rgds,
Sabya
http://sabyasachi.travellerspoint.com/14/
Quote:
To each his own I guess.
Originally Posted by Piyush 1000-1500Rs per day is too much for Pindari/Kafni glacier trek...I did Kafni glacier trek solo(Oct 2009,with porter) and paid 250Rs per day with food..Its a simple trek and I dont think you need a guide on this route, untill unless you are doing it winter season.
1000-1500Rs per day is too much for Pindari/Kafni glacier trek...I did Kafni glacier trek solo(Oct 2009,with porter) and paid 250Rs per day with food..Its a simple trek and I dont think you need a guide on this route, untill unless you are doing it winter season. I have done two treks (with my wife & kids) with Debu and his son, and both of them have been awesome. Debu took good care of us. I too paid somewhat high charges compared to solo or group trekkers (or the going-rate, so to speak), but I feel service fees cannot be a simple 1:1 comparison. On the second trek, when my daughter fell ill, the comfort and assurance that Debu provided was priceless. After giving him a decent tip at the end of the trek, I started to have gnawing thoughts about being too generous. But, my good wife, quickly brought me to my senses reminding of the quality of his service. Things like the local economy, the hardships these folks bear, etc. also need to factored in.
I am in no way expounding the cause of paying more than what a service is worth, but what is "worth" varies from person to person.
Hi,
I also did this trek solo 2 years back. I have friend there who is trekking guide. I can say this for sure more than 500 for a day is not worth it. Also now, the same friend was telling me that road has come up till dhakuri.
I have put my whole travel experience in my blog http://traveltrivials.blogspot.com
The whole trek cost me including train tickets from Mumbai around 4200 Rs for 2 people. I also stayed for a night at Nainital at the youth hostel.
Cheers
Paddy
I also did this trek solo 2 years back. I have friend there who is trekking guide. I can say this for sure more than 500 for a day is not worth it. Also now, the same friend was telling me that road has come up till dhakuri.
I have put my whole travel experience in my blog http://traveltrivials.blogspot.com
The whole trek cost me including train tickets from Mumbai around 4200 Rs for 2 people. I also stayed for a night at Nainital at the youth hostel.
Cheers
Paddy
As rightly pointed out SamG, "I am in no way expounding the cause of paying more than what a service is worth, but what is "worth" varies from person to person."
For a solo trekker, Rs 1000 may sound huge but as I too had mentioned earlier, it may not be the same for someone who is out on a family trekking. I too recall meeting solo 2 trekkers in the Malladhaur tea shack, accompanied by single porter-cum-guide, charging Rs 350 only, per day (food extra). But, when you are accompanied by ladies and children, taking the services of someone more experienced & dependable, by even paying a little extra maybe "worth".
Some may feel that Pindari & Kafni trek is fairly easier one and that the very need of a guide is not there. That may be well applicable for experienced solo trekkers or an all male groups but for people going with ladies, children etc an experienced guide would make the difference as was realized by SamG. He would be able to fix accomodation, food and importantly provide "a sence of security" etc rather than you running around trying to figure out all of these. You are going out there to be away from these mundane things, and if you have to keep bothering about them all throughout the trek, I would say the whole purpose is lost.
Additionally, what I've observed over there, with not many employment avenues, "guide & porters" are perhaps a secured seasonal occupation. As rightly pointed out by SamG, local economy, hardships of these people also needs to be factored in. I'm also, not trying to say that we should pay more than what is worth, but the feedback I got from countless people, as well as personal checking, suggested that the charges of Debu is very resonable (lumpsum rate) compared to others or even the KMVN package rates.
Rgds,
Sabya
http://sabyasachi.travellerspoint.com/14/
For a solo trekker, Rs 1000 may sound huge but as I too had mentioned earlier, it may not be the same for someone who is out on a family trekking. I too recall meeting solo 2 trekkers in the Malladhaur tea shack, accompanied by single porter-cum-guide, charging Rs 350 only, per day (food extra). But, when you are accompanied by ladies and children, taking the services of someone more experienced & dependable, by even paying a little extra maybe "worth".
Some may feel that Pindari & Kafni trek is fairly easier one and that the very need of a guide is not there. That may be well applicable for experienced solo trekkers or an all male groups but for people going with ladies, children etc an experienced guide would make the difference as was realized by SamG. He would be able to fix accomodation, food and importantly provide "a sence of security" etc rather than you running around trying to figure out all of these. You are going out there to be away from these mundane things, and if you have to keep bothering about them all throughout the trek, I would say the whole purpose is lost.
Additionally, what I've observed over there, with not many employment avenues, "guide & porters" are perhaps a secured seasonal occupation. As rightly pointed out by SamG, local economy, hardships of these people also needs to be factored in. I'm also, not trying to say that we should pay more than what is worth, but the feedback I got from countless people, as well as personal checking, suggested that the charges of Debu is very resonable (lumpsum rate) compared to others or even the KMVN package rates.
Rgds,
Sabya
http://sabyasachi.travellerspoint.com/14/
A Trek to Pindari Glacier and Kafni Glacier - Part II
Dear Friends,
After posting A Trek to Pindari Glacier and Kafni Glacier - Part I , I'm sharing below the 2nd part of my trek diary notes, narrating our experiences that we had as we made our way to Pindari & Kafni Glacier...
Sacred Rivers, Serene Mountains & Sheer Bliss!!!
After our sweet success at Pindari Glacier our destination next was the Kafni Glacier. We started back from Phurkiya to Dwali and from Dwali diverted left-wards following the Kafni river towards Khatia and finally making it to Kafni Glacier the next day.
Day 7
Distance Trekked : 12 kms
Trek Route: Purkhia-Dwali-Khatia
Distance Trekked : 12 kms
Trek Route: Purkhia-Dwali-Khatia
We had a long day ahead today. Our target was to trek back 5 kms returning to Dwali and thereafter from Dwali, following the Kafni trail, try trekking 7 kms upto Khatia. The drizzle outside that morning however made us a bit worried. Freshening up we had stuffed parathas for breakfast in the KMVN kitchen and started off at 8.30 am. As the way back was mostly downhill it was a comfortable trek contrary to the exhaustion we felt while approaching Purkhia.
The drizzle continued as we gradually passed by the same serene landscape that we had passed by two days earlier. The maple trees, the green ferns, and the thick vegetation of the lush forest accompanied us till we reached Dwali at 10.30 am. We rested outside the Sangam tea-house shack and had some refreshing black coffee and biscuits.
Our initial plan was to stay over the night at Dwali and carry on the following day directly to Kafni. But I suggested that since it was a bit early and the weather too was getting so unpredictable, we continue trekking till Khatia, another 7 kms ahead.
We started out from Dwali at 11 am. Getting down from the steep cliff where sleepy Dwali is strategically situated, we took the trail going left alongside the Kafni river. For sometime we could feel some welcoming bleak sunrays penetrating through the overall overcast sky. Half-an-hour trek into this trail we realized this was a far open trail and more scenic than the Pindari trail.
We started out from Dwali at 11 am. Getting down from the steep cliff where sleepy Dwali is strategically situated, we took the trail going left alongside the Kafni river. For sometime we could feel some welcoming bleak sunrays penetrating through the overall overcast sky. Half-an-hour trek into this trail we realized this was a far open trail and more scenic than the Pindari trail.
However, the trail path was very narrow and one wrong step or a slip would be fatal - the gorge below was a straight drop till the Kafni river. The climb surely was steep as we kept halting occasionally to rest as well as to soak in the awesome views. By now our legs were getting used to following a rhythm and Mitali too was trekking comfortably. Up ahead we could see snow-clad mountain beyond the opening of the serpentine river valley. After about an hour into our trek, it started drizzling again. But the drizzle soon turned into a heavy downpour. Our jackets and trek suits were getting soaked and we had to seek cover.
Luckily, we found an over-hanging rocky ledge in the midst of the trail and barely managed to lean ourselves in. It continued pouring as we squatted for the rains it to subside. As the downpour was slowly subsiding we heard some voices in the opposite direction and soon we saw a couple of porters coming down-hill braving the rains. They were being followed by an elderly couple from Bangalore, returning from their maiden Kafni trek.
We chatted with them and the news they provided was not at all encouraging. They had been to Kafni that morning and visibility was not that great but somehow they were lucky enough to see the glacier.
After sometime the rain stopped and we too stepped out to resume our trek. Mitali was gorging all the ripe wild strawberry possible that were literally growing almost all through the trail. They were smaller in size than the regular ones but were very sweet indeed.
I physically was not feeling great. The height of these places and the long treks each day were perhaps taking its toll. I was feeling low in energy. Gorged in some chocolates to give me some extra boost and continued ahead. Finally, by 2.30 pm were could see ahead of us our shelter for the night.
Seeing the two small blocks of the Khatia Gram Panchayat Guest houses at a distance gave us the impetus to trudge through the last few meters in full gusto. We realized that after each long day's trek through this wilderness, it was always so very welcoming to see from a distance the accommodation for the night. It was again a basic shelter with one block serving as the kitchen and porter's quarters, and the other block had two rooms with lines of beds with heavy quilts. The good thing I noticed was a cozy fire place in our allotted room. Views form the room itself was amazing.
It was quite cold and Pradip Singh, the caretaker-cum-cook welcomed us with a hot cup of black coffee. I requested, Pradip to cook us some hot khichidi and egg omelets. To our delight he lighted the fireplace and having our lunch we rested.
Early evening I took a short stroll outside. Khatia again is another scenic and serene place with majestic views of snow-clad mountains and open meadows. The clouds were casting a thin veil over the evening sky playing hide and seek with the rising half moon. As it was getting very windy, I too soon returned back to the room and sat by the fireplace.
Dinner was served at 8 pm but I had no appetite at all. I just managed a spoonful of rice and dal and few bites of fried Sardine, which I had given Pradip to cook. Post dinner, I sat alone in front of the fireplace while Mitali retired to bed. With the last piece of wood burning away, I too retired to bed contemplating what was in store for tomorrow since it was the final leg of our trek as we would attempt to trek to the mouth of the Kafni Glacier.
Day 8
Distance Trekked : 14 kms
Trek Route: Khatia-Walliagar-Kafni Glacier-Khatia
Distance Trekked : 14 kms
Trek Route: Khatia-Walliagar-Kafni Glacier-Khatia
Pradip woke us up early at 4 am with a hot cup of tea. We quickly freshened up and having some hot noodles we set off at 4.45 am towards the Kafni Glacier. The weather was gloomy, cold and windy. It was still dark as the first light of dawn was breaking through. Thin clouds brushed across our faces as we started following the trail across many open lush meadows.
Half-an-hour into the trek, thick clouds rushed in and it was a total white-out. We could not see beyond a few meters. The climb was surely exhaustive but it did not dither our spirit. We kept surging through the steep trail with the hope that the weather would clear enabling us a clear view of the glacier. By 7.30 we reached Walliagar. We have covered almost 4 kms. Here we rested for about 30 minutes. Debu, a devout religious man, lighted a few incense sticks and offering a few fruits, we prayed to the mother for a safe trek and a divine darshan of the glacier.
Thereafter, the trek through the lovely green meadows was truly enchanting. All around us were miles upon miles of open meadows with yellowish-green grass bushes. Herds of sheep and alpine goats with tingling bells around their neck were seen grazing around the meadows as a few shepherds were humming in a few local tunes.
We wondered how beautiful it would have been had the cloud covering not been there. By 8.30 am as we were approaching the final leg, Mitali started giving up. I persistently tried to persuade her to continue the last couple of kilometer - we were almost there but she refused to budge. Failing to persuade her I continued...
Debu was already ahead of me. Low visibility was making it difficult for me to follow the trail properly. As one moment I felt I had taken a wrong turn and was feeling totally disoriented and lost. I gave some shouts to Debu but failed get any response back. He must have been far ahead. It was an eerily silence all around, with just the sound of the whistling wind. Making my determination stronger I tried to orient myself and continued ahead.
Soon, to my relief I discovered the trail again marked by some stones, and kept following it steadfastly. Suddenly, up ahead through the misty landscape, at a bend after a steep climb, I could see Debu's ice axe fixed upright atop a rock. But Debu himself does not seem to be around. Going a little further up I saw Debu, curling himself up at a small space between two rocks, was in deep prayers.
As if Debu's prayers were working, the clouds were slowly moving away what I saw in front of me gave me shiver down my spine - the entire white upper portion of the Kafni Glacier, just in front of me. Words are failing to describe how I felt at that moment. I just kept gazing the glacier in silence. It truly was a feeling which I would not be able to describe in words.
After some moments, Debu broke his silence and I suggested we walk up to the mouth of the glacier, a distance of another half a kilometer. This last part of the trek was very tricky and treacherous. We had to cross over a huge slippery snow patch and thereafter balance our way through a sea of loose boulders and rocks. One wrong footing and you would fall causing injuries.
Carefully, we treaded along till we were reached the lower mouth of the glacier. The Kafni river can be clearly seen originating beneath the huge moraine of black ice. From the left side of the glacier loose rocks were falling down continuously. The glacier moaned and cracked making us feel that we were in front of something living. The misty condition at the mouth of the glacier made us somber.
To Debu's surprise, I quickly started taking off my cloths as I felt an inner desire from within to take a holy dip here. It was 8.30 am. Braving the cold I just got down the big rock where we were sitting, entering the icy waters. I dipped myself into the icy waters closing my breath and prayed; thanking the Mother with my folded hands seeking her blessings.
Strangely though I did not feel any cold as I came out of the water and wept myself dry with my hand towel. I felt truly fulfilled - a feeling I have not experienced ever before in my life. Putting along my attire, we celebrated by sharing a bar of chocolate that I was carrying in my backpack. Thereafter, we both sat down for about another 30 minutes soaking in thoroughly till reluctantly we had to make our way backwards.
The trek back to Khatia was relaxing but soon thick clouds came in and it was again a total white-out. We passed by Wallaigar and saw the site where Kumoan Mandal Vikas Nigam (Tourism Wing of Kumaon region of Uttarakhand ) is proposed to construct a fiber glass guest house soon. The foundation has already been completed.
We thought next time if we happen to come by to Kafni, we would be able to come directly from Dwali to Walliagar. We crossed by many a herds of sheep in their thousands making a bee-line to the rich meadows.
It again started drizzling and by 11.30 we reached back Khatia. We just chilled out at Khiatia the whole day, and in the evening sitting by the fireplace, celebrated our successful Pindari & Kafni Glacier wilderness trek with Debu by toasting some rum till dinner of egg curry and chapati was served by Pradip.
Day 9
Distance Trekked : 18 kms
Trek Route: Khatia-Dwali-Malla Dhur-Khati
Distance Trekked : 18 kms
Trek Route: Khatia-Dwali-Malla Dhur-Khati
It was again a long day ahead. Pradip woke us up early at 5 am. After freshening up we had some hot noodles and we started off at 6.30 am. The weather had cleared and it a sunny day with clear views.
Our intent was to reach Dwali from Khatia and thereafter continue to Khati village - a total trek of 18 kms. We walked past the scenic trail and soaked ourselves thoroughly.
On the trail we came across many a herd of sheep making their way uphill to the lush meadows of Kafni. These herds are accompanied by a couple shepherd along with a few guard dogs. They skillfully guided them by whistling along.
On the trail we came across many a herd of sheep making their way uphill to the lush meadows of Kafni. These herds are accompanied by a couple shepherd along with a few guard dogs. They skillfully guided them by whistling along.
As it was a very narrow trail each time a herd of sheep approached we had to give way for them to cross safely. By 8.45 am we reached Dwali where we rested a while sipping some hot coffee and cookies.
Thereafter we again trekked through by the lush serene forest. Trekking down-hill it is now we realized how much we had climbed. By 11.30 am we reached Malla Dhaur and rested our tired legs at the lone tea house. We interacted with the shack owner who informed us to our amazement that he has been running this tea house since the past 30 years.
By 12.30 pm we started off the last leg towards Khati. The long day's tiring trek was draining us out totally. Finally by 2.30 pm after trekking 18 kms we reached Khati village and straightaway headed to Debu's house and made a call back home from his WLL phone that we have successfully completed the Pindari & Kafni trek safely.
Thereafter, we trekked another half a kilometer to the check ourselves at the Sangam Tourist Cottage, situated at the outskirts of Khati village.
The sunny weather till then gradually turned gloomy and it started pouring. We rested and in late evening sweet Khilaf brought us some home cooked lamb curry which we gorged with some hot khichidi for dinner. Satisfied, we retired early accompanied by the sound of the falling rain over Sangam Cottage's tin roof.
Day 10
Distance Trekked : 12 kms
Trek Route: Khati-Kalwatati Top- Patlakhod-Supi-Talai
Distance Travelled : Approx 50 kms
Route : Talai-Barari-Bageshwar
Trek Route: Khati-Kalwatati Top- Patlakhod-Supi-Talai
Distance Travelled : Approx 50 kms
Route : Talai-Barari-Bageshwar
It was pouring hard as Debu and Khilaf reached the Sangam guest house around 8 am. We discussed with Debu whether we can get back via Kurkia but the news he shared was not so good. Continuous rains in the past week resulted in the jeeps stopped plying from Khurkia.
We had two option, either we climb up to Dhakuri and thereafter move to Loherkhet or on Debu's suggestion we decided to take another local route not usually done by trekkers. This route we had to climb up over 4 kms to Kalwatati top and get down to Supi village and Talai via Patlakhod. Having some aloo parathas and egg omlate we started off at 9 am once the rains stopped.
Moving out of Khati village we took a trail southwards moving through a thick Pine forest. It sutely was a very steep climb and it completed exhausted us to the hilt. But the trail was very scenic and once we reached the Kalwatati Top, we were rewarded by some amazing views. However the cloud cover somewhat restricted the views. Bowing our head at the shrine at Kalwatai Top and resting for sometime we continued ahead.
Thereafter we moved through some luch meadows till we reached Patlakhod, where some habitation existed in the form of shepherd huts. Resting awhile there we moved down through some trecherous tarrain and finally we could see the cute Supi village out in the horizon. Continuous walking was undoubtedly taking it toll but it truly was a rewarding experience.
Entering Supi village, we were taken to a local Kumaoni home and we felt very welcoming by the host of the house. The sweet lady of the house treated us to a very tasty organic Kumaoni lunch. She informed that they do not buy anything from outside, they cultivate everything in-house in their land right form rice to wheat, from vegetable to dals.
Satisfied with that lovely Kumaoni hospitality, we bid them farewell and moved down about half a kilometer to reach Talai around 3 pm. Reaching there we realized that there were no shared jeeps to take us to Barari. Luckily we found one jeep but the driver would not budge to take us unless we paid Rs 1000.
We desperately wanted to reach Bageswar and if possible move out to Ranikhet the same evening. So, we decided to hire the full jeep and moved off. Driving through the gravel road and we nearly got stuck two three times. Reaching Barari we changed the jeep and reached Bageshwar by 5.30 pm. As it got late, we decided to stay back at Bageshwar for the night and carry on to Ranikhet the next day.
We celebrated that evening at Bageshwar and thanking Debu, we toasted to the enchanting trek to the Pindari & Kafni Glacier, promising ourselves to be back next time for the more challenging Sundardunga Trek.
For Pictures alongwith the write-up pls visit :
Best Regards,
Sabya
New thread merged with existing thread to keep all the information together.
Last edited by JuliaF; Aug 11th, 2011 at 23:18..
This was all on page 2 so missed the thread for sometime. Well - it seems one can budegt anywhere from Rs. 500-1000 along that route, my philosophy is if it is within one's budget and one is not being taken for a ride then its okay. We are ofcourse camping at Zero Point and going slightly above on snow so that would be different from the standard trek. It is also rainy season so Debu and his sons will help us cross places, which may become tricky in monsoon.
Will report back once done - a bit risky in monsoon, but then what the heck.
Will report back once done - a bit risky in monsoon, but then what the heck.
Back from Pindari trek today. In summary, a good trek but takes very long to reach the scenic portions, a lot of walking and sameness of sights makes it a little boring sometimes till Dwali and to add to that we had planned to cover it in 5 days instead of the usual 7 days so no time to stop much at scenic places. When we got to the real good parts, some unfortunate planning and bad weather ensured we did not see anything at the zero point and could not stay there for long either. On the positive side, weather was mostly good while walking and got beautiful views of Nanda Devi East and Nanda Khat from Dwali and enroute to Phurkia. Snow around Dhakuri while returning was great to see. Trek itiniary initially planned:
Day 1: Travel in to Loharkhet (5 km walk from Saung to KMVN with reasonable steepness)
Day 2: Loharkhet ---> Khati (17 km)
Day 3: Khati - Phurkia (16 km)
Day 4: Phurkia - Zero Point - Camp 1 - Dwali (21 km)
Day 5: Dwali - Dhakuri (19 km)
Day 6: Dhakuri - Saung (14 km)
Day 7: Travel back
Day 3 got messed up as KMVN caretaker at Phurkia did not reach so we had to stay at Dwali, this meant the next day we had to do 5 km extra and so we landed at Zero Point in late afternoon and it was very cloudy. We had to abandon plans to go to Camp 1 (3 hours round trip) and could not see anything at Zero Point. We adjusted the rest of the itiniary to still travel back on Day 7.
Some key highlights:
1. Dhakuri is a great stop don't miss it - either on way up or way down, but generally my experience is one will appreciate it more on the way up as the excitement is still building up.
2. KMVN huts are very well organised, not sure any other trek offers such good facilities all the way up, the flip side is that in season there is huge rush (i am told) so very crowded.
3. We were four of us (in our late thirties) met and joined at Loharkhet by four youngsters (mid-twenties). All reasonably fit but our group of four obviously had worn out bodies. The results were as follows:
A. One guy amongst us got sick (high pulse and palpitations) at Loharkhet itself and had to stay back.
B. One guy, who was trekking for the first time, decided to take it easy on the last day and not go beyond Phurkia.
C. Three of the youngsters decided to not go beyond Pindari Baba's ashram so it was two oldies and one youngster who reached the Zero Point.
D. Yours truly, after the hectic Day 3 had recurrence of a chronic back problem and had to stay back at Dwali on Day 4. Made up in the next 2 days to catch with the rest of the group at Saung on the travel day.
Happy to report that everyone is well and happy with wherever they reached, though I am still nursing my back and resolved not to do more than 12 km / day on an average in future
4. The sights i liked the most were:
a. Approach to Dhakuri Pass and down to Dhakuri(green and expansive meadows at 2600-2800 m). Area around KMVN guesthouse at Dhakuri and the view of hills around is great. Reach here early and spend sometime there. On the way back i stayed at Dhakuri and all peaks around had snow - great sight.
b. River bed and jungle between Khati and Dwali: Took 10 minutes of break at the riverbed here(breaks were at a premium as we were going quite slow, being a large group). My experience is rivers from afar are not as attractive as the mountains, but you sit next to them in the coolness, it is really enchanting. There are 3-4 good spots without deviating from the route, but only 1 which is really large flat riverbed. Ofcourse, more insects around the river so day is the best time.
c. Numerous streams and waterfalls: These started even before we reached Saung and continued right through the journey. Awesome and never seen so many and such steep falls - i guess, a bonus for Monsoon travel. The biggest ones were falling 100-200 meters and we had to cross 2-3 of them, right below the fall - what a freshness. These will reduce and disappear when it does not rain.
d. Sight of Nanda Devi East and Nanda Khat from Dwali and enroute to Phurkia. This 5 km distance takes you closer to the view and draws you in.
e. Phurkia to Baba Sadanand's ashram: Walking through a great Bugyal (green pastures beyond tree line).
f. Zero point: Cold weather and a track finishing on a cliff (on the left side there is a 2 km gorge made by a landslide, on the right one can go down and start a new route for Camp 1 of Nanda Kot). I am told the view of Nanda Kot is phenomenal from Zero Point, but we were unlucky on that count.
5. On my last trek (Beas Kund), i had carried a lot of munchies and brought half of them back as food was great, so decided to go light this time. Big mistake - food was not a high point of the trip, though mostly palatable, it was low on nutrition, sometimes low in quantity and absolutely low in variety (menu varied between Dal, Chawal, Roti and Maggi for most parts), getting worse as we climbed higher. I guess in season it will be different. As we were promised everything will be taken care in a great manner, we were a bit miffed - but in the end, 2 kg less on the scale is good reward for some famished days there.
A few points for people planning this trek:
1. Season: We went off season, which starts from Sept second week. The potentially bad part can be bad approach route, broken paths and river crossings, poor availability of food along the way, poor weather restricting sights. On the positive note, we had the entire KMVN facilities to ourselves - i am told the number of people trekking in season goes upto 100-150 per day, making it very messy and very crowded. As per the locals and Debu (our guide cum arranging agency), one can trek in: A. March-April when there is snow from Dwali upwards and one may not reach all the way to Zero Point but get to walk through waist deep snow; B. May-June and Septemeber-October: Peak season. C. November: Cold and some snow in upper reaches but very clear skies. Monsoon is strictly not advised - well we were a bit lucky
Recommendation: You have to be very lucky to do an off-season trek successfully, but it has its own charms. For first timers stick to early (sept 15) or late part (Nov) of the season to avoid the rush but not face many difficulties. Also, the jeepable road to near Dhakuri is open only during middle of the season, makes the trek shorter.
2. Guide: Debu is a good guide and has two sons engaged in the same trade so makes it a family enterprise. I am told there are dozens of guides in the area (mainly Khati, but one can arrange anywhere from Bageshwar onwards). In my view one definitely needs a guide in the off seasons and when travelling with family or not wanting the botheration of making all arrangements oneself. However, this route is so organised in terms of accomodation, food, route that in season (September middle onwards), one can simply reach there with advance booking at KMVN or PWD guesthouses and start trekking. Some of the things a guide cum arranger does for you:
A. Crossing tougher paths: We crossed 3 landslide paths and 3 river crossings, which would be difficult (even dangerous) for a first timer. These will all be made easy crossings by Sept 15 by PWD guys.
B. Organising: Off season KMVN and PWD huts are closed, especially beyond Khati. Someone needs to contact them and also get them to cook food and get supplies. Doing this oneself would take the focus away from the trek and results are unlikely to be good either. As the mobile network rarely works in hills, communication is extreme challenge from anywhere.
C. Security and Comfort: If anything goes wrong, having a local at hand is very important and ofcourse there is the service aspect if you are one for getting some comforts (though trekkers generally leave comfort behind).
Recommendation: Get a guide unless you are an experienced trekker, the cost of all arrangements (food, lodging, porter and guide) is lower at Rs. 500-600 per head per day in the season but higher off season (ponies cannot cross the landslide areas so men lift the load - we should have packed lighter!!). In season services are standard but off-season, services can vary - we got service levels below our expectations, but that is not to say that we did not enjoy the stay.
3. Trek Extensions: As one does such a long journey for Pindari, it makes sense for people with some more time (and some mountain experience) available to camp at Zero Point or beyond at Camp 1 (1 km from Pindari) or even Camp 2 (2 km from Camp 1) of Nanda Kot, where one is at the snowline.
Recommendation: Plan to travel till Dhakuri in Jeep (starts in October) and combine with Camp 1 or Sunderdhunga.
On a personal note, I had set out to check my endurance for a mid level trek and met that objective, so next one is on.
Day 1: Travel in to Loharkhet (5 km walk from Saung to KMVN with reasonable steepness)
Day 2: Loharkhet ---> Khati (17 km)
Day 3: Khati - Phurkia (16 km)
Day 4: Phurkia - Zero Point - Camp 1 - Dwali (21 km)
Day 5: Dwali - Dhakuri (19 km)
Day 6: Dhakuri - Saung (14 km)
Day 7: Travel back
Day 3 got messed up as KMVN caretaker at Phurkia did not reach so we had to stay at Dwali, this meant the next day we had to do 5 km extra and so we landed at Zero Point in late afternoon and it was very cloudy. We had to abandon plans to go to Camp 1 (3 hours round trip) and could not see anything at Zero Point. We adjusted the rest of the itiniary to still travel back on Day 7.
Some key highlights:
1. Dhakuri is a great stop don't miss it - either on way up or way down, but generally my experience is one will appreciate it more on the way up as the excitement is still building up.
2. KMVN huts are very well organised, not sure any other trek offers such good facilities all the way up, the flip side is that in season there is huge rush (i am told) so very crowded.
3. We were four of us (in our late thirties) met and joined at Loharkhet by four youngsters (mid-twenties). All reasonably fit but our group of four obviously had worn out bodies. The results were as follows:
A. One guy amongst us got sick (high pulse and palpitations) at Loharkhet itself and had to stay back.
B. One guy, who was trekking for the first time, decided to take it easy on the last day and not go beyond Phurkia.
C. Three of the youngsters decided to not go beyond Pindari Baba's ashram so it was two oldies and one youngster who reached the Zero Point.
D. Yours truly, after the hectic Day 3 had recurrence of a chronic back problem and had to stay back at Dwali on Day 4. Made up in the next 2 days to catch with the rest of the group at Saung on the travel day.
Happy to report that everyone is well and happy with wherever they reached, though I am still nursing my back and resolved not to do more than 12 km / day on an average in future
4. The sights i liked the most were:
a. Approach to Dhakuri Pass and down to Dhakuri(green and expansive meadows at 2600-2800 m). Area around KMVN guesthouse at Dhakuri and the view of hills around is great. Reach here early and spend sometime there. On the way back i stayed at Dhakuri and all peaks around had snow - great sight.
b. River bed and jungle between Khati and Dwali: Took 10 minutes of break at the riverbed here(breaks were at a premium as we were going quite slow, being a large group). My experience is rivers from afar are not as attractive as the mountains, but you sit next to them in the coolness, it is really enchanting. There are 3-4 good spots without deviating from the route, but only 1 which is really large flat riverbed. Ofcourse, more insects around the river so day is the best time.
c. Numerous streams and waterfalls: These started even before we reached Saung and continued right through the journey. Awesome and never seen so many and such steep falls - i guess, a bonus for Monsoon travel. The biggest ones were falling 100-200 meters and we had to cross 2-3 of them, right below the fall - what a freshness. These will reduce and disappear when it does not rain.
d. Sight of Nanda Devi East and Nanda Khat from Dwali and enroute to Phurkia. This 5 km distance takes you closer to the view and draws you in.
e. Phurkia to Baba Sadanand's ashram: Walking through a great Bugyal (green pastures beyond tree line).
f. Zero point: Cold weather and a track finishing on a cliff (on the left side there is a 2 km gorge made by a landslide, on the right one can go down and start a new route for Camp 1 of Nanda Kot). I am told the view of Nanda Kot is phenomenal from Zero Point, but we were unlucky on that count.
5. On my last trek (Beas Kund), i had carried a lot of munchies and brought half of them back as food was great, so decided to go light this time. Big mistake - food was not a high point of the trip, though mostly palatable, it was low on nutrition, sometimes low in quantity and absolutely low in variety (menu varied between Dal, Chawal, Roti and Maggi for most parts), getting worse as we climbed higher. I guess in season it will be different. As we were promised everything will be taken care in a great manner, we were a bit miffed - but in the end, 2 kg less on the scale is good reward for some famished days there.
A few points for people planning this trek:
1. Season: We went off season, which starts from Sept second week. The potentially bad part can be bad approach route, broken paths and river crossings, poor availability of food along the way, poor weather restricting sights. On the positive note, we had the entire KMVN facilities to ourselves - i am told the number of people trekking in season goes upto 100-150 per day, making it very messy and very crowded. As per the locals and Debu (our guide cum arranging agency), one can trek in: A. March-April when there is snow from Dwali upwards and one may not reach all the way to Zero Point but get to walk through waist deep snow; B. May-June and Septemeber-October: Peak season. C. November: Cold and some snow in upper reaches but very clear skies. Monsoon is strictly not advised - well we were a bit lucky
Recommendation: You have to be very lucky to do an off-season trek successfully, but it has its own charms. For first timers stick to early (sept 15) or late part (Nov) of the season to avoid the rush but not face many difficulties. Also, the jeepable road to near Dhakuri is open only during middle of the season, makes the trek shorter.
2. Guide: Debu is a good guide and has two sons engaged in the same trade so makes it a family enterprise. I am told there are dozens of guides in the area (mainly Khati, but one can arrange anywhere from Bageshwar onwards). In my view one definitely needs a guide in the off seasons and when travelling with family or not wanting the botheration of making all arrangements oneself. However, this route is so organised in terms of accomodation, food, route that in season (September middle onwards), one can simply reach there with advance booking at KMVN or PWD guesthouses and start trekking. Some of the things a guide cum arranger does for you:
A. Crossing tougher paths: We crossed 3 landslide paths and 3 river crossings, which would be difficult (even dangerous) for a first timer. These will all be made easy crossings by Sept 15 by PWD guys.
B. Organising: Off season KMVN and PWD huts are closed, especially beyond Khati. Someone needs to contact them and also get them to cook food and get supplies. Doing this oneself would take the focus away from the trek and results are unlikely to be good either. As the mobile network rarely works in hills, communication is extreme challenge from anywhere.
C. Security and Comfort: If anything goes wrong, having a local at hand is very important and ofcourse there is the service aspect if you are one for getting some comforts (though trekkers generally leave comfort behind).
Recommendation: Get a guide unless you are an experienced trekker, the cost of all arrangements (food, lodging, porter and guide) is lower at Rs. 500-600 per head per day in the season but higher off season (ponies cannot cross the landslide areas so men lift the load - we should have packed lighter!!). In season services are standard but off-season, services can vary - we got service levels below our expectations, but that is not to say that we did not enjoy the stay.
3. Trek Extensions: As one does such a long journey for Pindari, it makes sense for people with some more time (and some mountain experience) available to camp at Zero Point or beyond at Camp 1 (1 km from Pindari) or even Camp 2 (2 km from Camp 1) of Nanda Kot, where one is at the snowline.
Recommendation: Plan to travel till Dhakuri in Jeep (starts in October) and combine with Camp 1 or Sunderdhunga.
On a personal note, I had set out to check my endurance for a mid level trek and met that objective, so next one is on.
#24 
Sep 4th, 2011, 12:17 Senior Member
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Hi Rajat,
Congrates for asuccessfuly reaching zero points. Waiting for snaps. I am also planning once again in October. If plan materialised I will contact you for some recent updates. Hope you won't mind.
Congrates for asuccessfuly reaching zero points. Waiting for snaps. I am also planning once again in October. If plan materialised I will contact you for some recent updates. Hope you won't mind.
“The vision must be followed by the venture. It is not enough to stare up the steps - we must step up the stairs.” - Vance Havner
Thanks - we were told by the baba that we are first ones to come after the rains. My snaps are very large size so difficult to upload, awaiting my friends snaps. Any queries are most welcome.
Welcome back Rajatsurey...nice detailed report with observations.
Bad luck that you did not have clear views at Zero Point.
Look forward to see the pictures...
Bad luck that you did not have clear views at Zero Point.
Look forward to see the pictures...
Thanks - having the views would have added icing on the cake, but not to be this time.
Excellent Reports!
Sabyasachi and Rajatsurey, thanks for these excellent up to date reports. I did this trek in 2004 and am thinking of doing it again next year. You have described it well.
In 2004 I stayed a night in one of the small huts next to the Baba's ashram. A villager from Khati was operating it as a 'hotel', was there any evidence that this still happens in season?
We never made it to the Kafni glacier and I would like to see it. Are there any shelters an independent trekker could use between Dwali and the Kafni glacier? We'll have a stove, sleeping bags and bivvy bags so a rough shelter will be fine. When I was there the attendant at Dwali said there was a shelter on that part of the route, did you see it?
thanks.
Leem.
In 2004 I stayed a night in one of the small huts next to the Baba's ashram. A villager from Khati was operating it as a 'hotel', was there any evidence that this still happens in season?
We never made it to the Kafni glacier and I would like to see it. Are there any shelters an independent trekker could use between Dwali and the Kafni glacier? We'll have a stove, sleeping bags and bivvy bags so a rough shelter will be fine. When I was there the attendant at Dwali said there was a shelter on that part of the route, did you see it?
thanks.
Leem.
Leem - cannot help on the queries on Kafni as we did not go that way. On the other query, the season looks very different from off-season, but my guess is getting some acco in a makeshift hut or even at Baba's ashram, should be possible (there are some shephards on the way, who may also have temporary accomodation). I do remember a number of uninhabited huts between Khati and Dwali but none after Phurkia. Anyways, even if they are not there, you can rent a tent from Khati (rental cost should not be much compared to the fun of staying up there).
hi Leem, as rightly pointed out by Rajatsurey, in the Pindari route, post Purkhia there are no hotels/rest houses etc except a lone stone hut we saw just before reaching Baba's ashram. I was told that some people can camp there in season time. We, of couse did not venture into the hut to see how good or bad it's condition was. But I'm sure, if you are carrying a sleeping bag you may be able to stay there. Over and above that, there were a few shepherd huts on the route and I'm sure a lone trekker would be accomodated.
However, as far as the Kafni route, from Dwali till Khatia, we did not see even shephard huts. But post Khatia enroute till Kafni, we saw an abandoned stone hut after Walliagarh, but there was no roof on it. Also, as I had mentioned in my report, KMVN is constructing a fiber hut near Walliagarh but I'm sure it would take them some time to complete it.
So, ideally in case you want to camp near Kafni, you have to carry a tent along with other gears as you have mentioned.
However, as far as the Kafni route, from Dwali till Khatia, we did not see even shephard huts. But post Khatia enroute till Kafni, we saw an abandoned stone hut after Walliagarh, but there was no roof on it. Also, as I had mentioned in my report, KMVN is constructing a fiber hut near Walliagarh but I'm sure it would take them some time to complete it.
So, ideally in case you want to camp near Kafni, you have to carry a tent along with other gears as you have mentioned.
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