A Trek to Pindari Glacier & Kafni Glacier
A Trek to Pindari Glacier & Kafni Glacier
Dear Friends,
Sharing below my trek diary notes, narrating our experiences that we had as we made our way to Pindari & Kafni Glacier, from June 3rd - June 12th , 2011...
Sacred Rivers, Serene Mountains & Sheer Bliss!!!
Imagine a tranquil paradise - serene, grandeur and breathtakingly scenic. Trekking in absolute solitude through the lush Himalayan forests of pine, oak, maple, rhododendron was something I always wished. Soaring snow-clad peaks playing hide-and-seek with each passing clouds, gushing streams, cascading waterfalls, colorful butterflies, chirping birds, green meadows, turquoise-blue waters of the sacred Pindari & Kafni rivers were all part of my imagination. It was as if I could smell in the aromas and soak in the captivating views, as I was researching this trek.
True to my imagination, I can now recall with satisfaction, the amount of enquiry, browsing, interaction and contemplation, were worth all its effort, as we prepared ourselves for this unique approximately 90 km Pindari & Kafni Glacier wilderness trek - to witness Mother Nature's exquisite artworks, painted out beautifully in the broad canvas of the Holy Himalayas.
Our guide-cum-porter, 42-years-old Devendra Singh, better known as Debu, was an avid trekker himself, having a rich trekking experience of 26 years. With Debu's in-depth knowledge of various trek & trails all around the Kumaon and Garhwal Himalayas, with an ever-lively spirit, we felt totally secured in his company. It was a pleasure to hear his countless high altitude trekking expeditions. His sleepy village Khati - the last habitation en-route - is about 50 kms from the temple town of Bageswar, situated in the enchanting Kumaon Himalayas of the beautiful Indian Himalayan state of Uttaranchal.
Day 1 & Day 2
Route: Mumbai-New Delhi-Lal Kuan
Distance Travelled : 1750 kms
Distance Travelled : 1750 kms
Winding up a hectic day at work, both Mitali and myself, boarded the Special Rajdhani Express that fateful Friday evening from Mumbai Central Station. Chugging though the night and the entire next day, we reached the New Delhi Railway Station at 6.10 pm. Our connecting train to Kathgodam - the last railhead of Uttaranchal - was at 10.40 pm from the Old Delhi Railway Station.
We got out of the station and boarding an auto-rickshaw, made our way to Old Delhi Railway Station. Unfortunately, the shorter route we took was chock-a-block with traffic since all major roads that day were made off traffic as a precursor to Baba Ramdev's proposed fast at Ramlila ground. Baba Ramdev's motive was to make the government bring back all the 'black money' stashed in Swiss banks and other tax havens.
Understandably, he is yet to succeed... 
After moving about 500 meters in 30 minutes and being stuck in the chaotic Old Delhi traffic for another 10 minutes, our patience ran out. We decided to turn and take the longer route through ITO and finally, reached the station at 8 pm. But our worries were yet to be over. The status of our 1st Class AC tickets in the Ranikhet Express was still showing Waiting List 1 & 2 as I checked through my mobile phone.
We just hoped that it would get confirmed. On checking the status again at the enquiry counter, discovered that one of our tickets got confirmed while the other one was still in Waiting List 1. The final ticket chart had been prepared and our only hope was to convince the Railway Ticket Checker. After some anxious moments, the Ticket Checker obliged to our relief that we both would be accommodated.
Day 3
Distance Travelled by Vehicle: 250 kms
Route: Lal Kuan-Kathgodam-Bhimtal-Bhowali-Almora-Bagesawar-Barari-Loherkhet-Chaurasta-Rethi-Karmi-Dhur-Kurkia-Dau Village
Distance Trekked : 3 kms
Trek Route: Kurkia-Dau Village
Route: Lal Kuan-Kathgodam-Bhimtal-Bhowali-Almora-Bagesawar-Barari-Loherkhet-Chaurasta-Rethi-Karmi-Dhur-Kurkia-Dau Village
Distance Trekked : 3 kms
Trek Route: Kurkia-Dau Village
Chugging through the night in the luxurious 1st Class AC coup, we reached Lal Kuan at 5.10 am - the penultimate station before Kathgodam. As we were making our way outside the station, we were greeted by a person inquiring where we were heading. Answered him that we were on our way to Bageswar and we plan to take a share taxi. To our utter delight he informed that he is taking some people in his Trevera vehicle beyond Bageswar and has 2 unoccupied seats.
If we were willing he'll accommodate us. He agreed to drop us at Bageswar charging Rs 500. We thought it was an auspicious beginning to start with and by noon we would be at Bageswar. Soon, we passed by the plains of Haldwani and Kathgodam. We had a quick bite en-route at Kainchi and made our way uphill via Bhimtal, Bhowali and finally Almora. The winding road as we soared up was very welcoming as we could feel the fresh mountain breeze across our faces.
As decided upon earlier, we boarded down at Siddharth Hotel in Bageswar at 12.10 pm to be greeted by smiling Debu. He had kept a room ready for us to freshen up as I discussed the finer trek details and handed over 50% advance of our agreed amount, enabling him purchases the necessary rations, vegetables, fruits etc for our 8 days trek.
Debu informed us that we would be able to by-pass the traditional trek route to Dhakuri-Khati via Loherkhet, saving us 1 day since we could drive directly till Kurkia, which is 4 kms before the Khati village, from where the trek would start. Additionally, it would also save us from trekking 11 kms uphill till Dhakuri via Dhakuri Top and 8 kms downhill till Khati.
By 1 pm we were all set to move out. Leaving behind our extra luggage at Bageswar, we boarded a Max Jeep that Debu had hired and made our way to Kurkia, the last road head. We reached Barari at 3 pm, the last small town en-route, where we had a quick lunch of rice and chicken.
From Barari onwards, the road condition was sheer pathetic. The single track winding gravel road was full of mud and slush and we had to get down and give our jeep a push on 4 occasions as it got stuck badly. Monsoon was yet to set in but the pre-monsoon showers have already done enough damage.
I recall seeing Mr Amar Shah's photos in India Mike about the road condition and I would say it was worse than I had imagined. In fact I had spoken to him that very day when they were returning from the Sundardunga trek as I wanted to speak to Debu and had assumed that he was with Amar.
We passed by the hamlets of Loherkhet, Chaurasta, Rethi, Karmi and Dhur. Finally, by 5.20 pm we reached Kurkia. Later, we were informed that we were the last to make it to Kurkia since after that day jeeps stopped plying on this route as the weather turned worse.
At Kurkia, we were warmly greeted by Khilaf, Debu's 21-years-old son and out trek soon started after a hot cup of tea. Our destination was Khati village - a trek of 4 kms. But Debu suggested that instead of staying the night at Khati, we stay at Dau village, 1 km before Khati, from where we would get an amazing view of the Maiktoli peak.
We followed a narrow trail and trekked for 3 kms through lush vegetation to reach the sleepy village of Dau. We were thrilled to see clear views of the Maiktoli along with the other snow-clad Himalayas.
We checked ourselves in the lone village guest house dead tired. We have been constantly travelling for the past 2 days without any rest. Distance-wise we drove over 250 kms from Lal Kuan that day, walked 3 kms till Dau, excluding the 1500 km distance travelled in train from Mumbai to Delhi and then on 250 kms to Lal Kuan. A hot bath soothed us both.
Thereafter, we chatted with Lakshman Singh, the owner-cum--cook of the guest house as he prepared a delicious dinner of chhapati, vegetable curry and scrambled eggs over his open fire-place kitchen. Stomach satisfied we called it a night.
Day 4
Distance Trekked : 12 kms
Trek Route: Dau Village-Khati Village- Malla Dhaur-Dwali
Trek Route: Dau Village-Khati Village- Malla Dhaur-Dwali
At 5 am Lakshman knocked at our door greeting us with some hot tea. He informed that the view of Maiktoli peak would be a treat to watch at sunrise. Indeed it was sight to behold.
Sipping the cup of tea I walked down the open staircase as the first rays of the sun was hitting the snow-clad peak of Maiktoli. It was creating a dazzling effect. I just stood there amazed. On the right was the cute Khati village, at a height of 7250 feet, as if hanging delicately above terraced fields of potato and wheat plantations.By 7.30 am Debu arrived and invited us to his home for breakfast. It was a gesture quite unseen and unheard of in our parts of the "busy city life".
How generous and big-hearty these mountain people are, was all we could ponder and trekked a little over 1 kms to his home at Khati village. We were greeted by his wife, his 2 daughter-in-laws and son Khilaf. In fact, Khilaf helped his mom cook us a nice breakfast of puri, scrambled eggs fried with onion accompanied by home-made ghee, pickles along with some ‘not so palatable’ butter milk.
After that sumptuous homely breakfast, we thanked Debu's wife and started our trek at 9 am. Khilaf accompanied us carrying our rucksack and informed us that Debu would join us later ahead. Our target for the day was to reach Dwali - 11 kms away. Khilaf guided us through their village short-cut and initially we followed a very narrow half-a-feet cemented path winding through potato cultivation. The misty cloud cover made our trek comfortable.
Initially, we trekked downhill till we reached the Pindari river roaring aside. Khilaf informed that we would follow the river all the way through the trek till the Pindari Glacier. The route laid with loads of rocks, was slippery and we had to be carefully at each step.
Thereon, it was a steep uphill climb as we slowly made our way ahead. We walked past the lush forest path mostly uphill, sometime downhill and occasionally even. To our left was the Pindari river gushing downstream with its bluish waters. All around us was a thick wooded forest with various plant and shrubs. The steep climb uphill at times was taxing and we had to wait countless times to catch our breath.
Slowly and gradually we moved ahead soaking in the varied sights unfolding, both in our minds as well in the camera. Meanwhile, Debu overtook us and kept pushing ahead with our fully loaded ration rucksack pretty comfortably.
After about an hour into the trek we reached a clearing and could see Debu resting outside a cute shepherd hut. We too rested there for some time. A slight drizzle started but thankfully it did not turn into a downpour. The silence of the forest was occasionally broken by some bird calls. The only constant sound accompanying us was the raging waters of the Pindari river.
We continued to trot ahead and were surprised not to see any other fellow trekkers. Suddenly, we heard some voices coming down. It was of an Australian couple who was coming back from Dwali. We greeted and spoke a couple of minutes. They informed us that they could not make it to Kafni Glacier despite trying 2 days, as it was raining - "cloudy, no views buddy" was all they said.
This made us apprehensive whether we would be able to view both the glaciers. But Debu, an ardent religious man, solaced us by saying that he has full faith in Nanda Devi Mata who would undoubtedly bless us with a nice darshan of the glaciers. His faith comforted us and with prayers in our hearts we pushed ahead through the mountain forest.
By 11.30 am, we approached another clearing ahead, it was Malla Dhaur. We have trekked 6 kms uphill till now. Malla Dhaur, situated at a scenic setting besides the Pindari river had a few shepherd huts and a lone tea house. We rested for half-an-hour in the tea house and had some tea and hot maggie noodles.
We also met two other trekker at the tea house. Both were doctors from Delhi and were on their way back. They informed that though it was cloudy the last couple of day, and the climb to Pindari quite tough, but it was a well-deserved effort. They were lucky to get clear views at Pindari Zero Point. It was in their words, "out of the world". On the food front however they seems to be unhappy. They asked Debu where they will get chicken, as they were "dying to eat chicken". Their taste buds seem to be in their lowest ebb eating only potatoes, dal, rice & rotis for the last 5 days.
After some amusing chit-chat they bid us adieu. We too, after resting our heels started off our next leg. Mitali was experiencing a slight pain in her right knee but was otherwise fine. We crossed a wooden bridge at Malla Dhaur and thereon the Pindari river that was to our left, moved to our right side.
The whitish-bluish water of the fast flowing Pindari was a treat to our eyes. We continued the steep climb through the forest path frequently resting, chatting or simply soaking in the views silently. After another hour-an-half or so we were out of the forest and could see huge barren mountains to our left side. We followed the narrow trail through a ridge and soon we could see some habitation ahead of us. Khilaf informed that it was Dwali – the confluence the Pindari and Kafni river, situated at a height of 8650 feet.
We were getting a bit exhausted but seeing the PWD Guest House and the KMVN Trekker Hut ahead gave us renewed energy to surge the final half-a-kilometer. We crossed a wooden bridge and below we could see the holy confluence of of the bluish Pindari and the turquoise Kafni waters coming in from two different directions.
A few meters ahead we crossed another bridge over the Pindari river and took the steep short-cut uphill to the KMVN Trekkers hut. It was 3.30 pm. Our legs were tired. It was cold at Dwali and the weather soon turned gloomy and started pouring heavily. We rested till late afternoon and chatted with Debu in the evening over some rum. Dinner consisted of some rice, dal and vegetable curry. Alongside, I stir-fried some tuna flakes with chopped onion, tomatoes and chilies making the dinner delicious.
Day 5
Distance Trekked : 5 kms
Trek Route: Dwali-Purkhia
Trek Route: Dwali-Purkhia
We took it little easy today. Khilaf woke us up at 6.30 am with some hot tea. It was cold yet sunny. Freshening up we sat outside in the warm sun and had our breakfast of tasty stuffed potatoes' parathas and pickles. The landscape around Dwali was utterly scenic as we gazed at Pindari and Kafni river meandering through.
Our destination for the day was Purkhia - 5 kms ahead. Assuming the short distance we were under the impression that we would be able to wrap this distance on the fly. How wrong we were. We started off at 9 am dumping a few more attire at the store room of the Dwali Trekkers Hut.
We trekked through the steep forest trail and it was very tiring. Our legs pained and Mitali was having problems. Slowly and gradually we moved ahead resting awhile every few meters. Each step we were gaining height as the thin air was gradually making breathing difficult. Debu as usual started late but soon overtook us and kept moving at ease. I continued encouraging Mitali to keep it going
Soon we were out of the forest and were above the tree-line. Patches of snow lay scattered in all directions. Thereafter, we crossed a frozen stream. Strange as it seemed, water was flowing underneath the thick snow layer as we crossed it carefully. All around us were majestic nameless snow-clad mountains.
The Pindari river flowed below us and at one point Khilaf pointed us towards the river and we saw a big heard of Himalayan Tahr. They were moving through the rocks by the bank of the Pindari river. I was delighted to capture a few shots of these rare majestic animals in the camera. The last point before reaching Purkhia was a green open meadow.
Slowly, we had to climb through the steep zig-zag trail through the meadows. Countless streams of melting ice-water crossed our paths as we made our way ahead. We were by now far above the tree line. The only trees that grew here were dwarfed rhododendron and few other shrubs. Pink and white rhododendron flowers blooming in all directions were a treat to our eyes. Unlike our last year's trek to Khalia Top near Munsiyari, there was no red variety of rhododendron flowers to be seen here.
Finally, after an arduous climb of over four-and-a-half hours we saw ahead to our relief the PWD guest house and KMVN Trekkers Hut of Purkhia, at a height of 10,600 feet. It was 1.30 pm. It was cold in Purkhia. Icy winds were blowing across our faces. Debu had already arrived and by the time we reached Purkhia hot lunch was served to warm us up. The weather was turning gloomy. Clouds were moving in from all directions and soon it was a total whiteout.
Visibility fell low and we were as if in the midst of clouds. We rested our heels till late afternoon. Before dusk set in I moved out alone and explored the misty surroundings. Suddenly, out in the horizon, the cloud cover gave way and in front of me was the mesmerizing view the Nanda Khat peak. However, it stayed clear only for a few minutes.
As evening set in I had a hot bath and along with Debu, we carried out a small puja for a successful trek to Pindari Glacier the next day. We had an early dinner and called it a night since tomorrow we plan to start as early as 4.30 am.
Day 6
Distance Trekked : 14 kms
Trek Route: Purkhia-Pindari Glacier Zero Point-Purkhia
Trek Route: Purkhia-Pindari Glacier Zero Point-Purkhia
After a toss and turn night, excited as I was, contemplating whether we would be lucky to view the Pindari Glacier, the caretaker of the KMVN Trekkers' Hut woke us up with some tea at 4 am. Freshening up quickly in the darkness, we set out on our final leg to the Pindari Glacier at 4.30 am. Mind it there is no electricity after Khati village in the entire route. Even in Khati, limited electricity runs through solar power. It was still dark as we started walking.
Slowly, we could see the first light of the dawn breaking through. The steep initial climb made us exhausted quickly as the oxygen level was getting low as we were gaining height at every step. By 5 am it started getting brighter but some hovering clouds kept us apprehensive but we kept pushing ahead.
Soon, one by one the majestic peaks became visible, Baljouri, Panjoli, Changuch and Nanda Kot - all as if within hand-reach distance. We walked past many a green meadows and ice-melt streams.
After covering about 2 kms I realized Mitali was lagging behind. Returning back some distance, I saw her sitting in a rock and was in tears. Her right knee again was hurting badly and I applied some relieving ointment and messaged her knee. After about 10 minutes her pain subsided and we slowly continued ahead.
Exhaustion was setting in but I kept encouraging her. The thin air was making breathing tough. Finally, by 7.30 am we were at the door steps of Dharmanda Giri Baba's Nanda Shiv Shaktipith Ashram. Babaji greeted us and we moved inside his wood and stone abode and bowed our heads at his temple of Nanda Devi Mata.
Babaji prepared some tea which warmed us up as it was getting very cold. We were amazed to see Babaji moving around barefoot carrying out his daily chores. The views from the ashram were awesome. It was like an amphitheater in front of which lies the panoramic views of the Himalayan range.
Clouds continued moving in from the south and the snow-clad peaks were getting partially covered. At about 9 am, after our exhaustion subsided, we decided to make the final walk to the Pindari Zero Point. From this point the Pindari Glacier could be viewed in its totality.
It was again another steep climb of about 2 kms. Debu with his Ice Axe lead the way and we slowly followed being totally bowled out at the views. The majestic Changuch stood out tall in front of us totally covered in white snow. Besides it on the right side the peak of Nanda Kot was also visible. As we trotted ahead, Mitali's pain was getting worse and I literally had to cajole her to complete the last half kms till Zero Point. I encouraged her to take her own time and keep coming as I moved forward.
As I moved through the last steep climb, over ridge I could see the mouth of the Pindari Glacier. Tears just came to my eyes. I just shut off and kept gazing at its sheer 'out of the world' beauty. To me it resembled a living organism, a living force that lived through time immemorial. Huge crevasses were visible with the ice color ranging from blue to sapphire.
Down below the white glacier, I could see the humble origin of the Pindari river trickling out of the snow-melt as a very small stream, in contrast to the raging Pindari that we followed all the way from Khati village. It surely was a humbling experience.
Mitali meanwhile reached the Zero Point and we captured as many photographs possible. We thanked Debu and prayed from the depth of our hearts, thanking Pindari for the holy darshan and sought her blessings as well. The height of Pindari Glacier Zero Point stood approximately at 3280 meters. After spending about half an hour in celestial bliss we made our way back to Babaji's ashram. It started pouring after we entered Babaji's ashram. We thought how lucky we were to be able to get a darshan before the landscape got all covered with clouds.
Babaji was supervising some renovation work of his abode but in a whiff he cooked a hearty meal of rice, dal, fried potato balls, which he treated us inside his low roofed kitchen. Babaji has been residing in this paradise since the last 22 years, going down only for 2 months in winters when his ashram gets buried in 5-6 feet of snow.
Saw his compassion as we noticed that anyone who came to his ashram was offered free food and tea. As a gratitude for his hospitality, we inserted some money into his donation box after our prayers in his shrine. He does not ask for anything and it is up to you whether or not you donate anything. I had carried a copy of Yogananda's Autobiography of a Yogi, which he gracefully accepted.
The drizzle outside continued as we bid a gracious adieu to Babaji and made our way back to Purkhia at 1 pm. We slowly trotted back in a total misty whiteout state contemplating whether or not the Kafni trek would also be a success. We reached back Purkhia at 3.30 totally chilled yet thrilled. Debu as an effective organizer moved us to the adjourning PWD guest house from the damp KMVN Trekers hut.
The PWD guest house had a cozy fire place in our allotted room. By the time we reached Purkhia, the fireplace was already lighted and our room was warm. Changing our wet cloths we just sat by the fireplace satisfied.
As dusk set in chatted with Debu and heard his various memorable treks over the past 26 years and how he is worried for employment of his 4 sons. His elder son Khilaf and Anand is already following his father's footsteps guiding people to various treks. His younger two sons are studying, one in school and the other in Inter-mediate. He wants them to continue education and seek jobs outside. In his words, he enjoys each day of his job but he adds "it's taxing at times".
Late evening we had a light dinner. We realized that we were losing appetite perhaps due to altitude. Continued sitting near the fireplace till 10 pm. Called it a night when I ran out of firewood. I did not have the energy to go out in the cold seeking more firewood.
Kafni Glacier Trek - Part II - will post the report very soon...
For Pictures alongwith the write-up pls visit :
Regards,
Sabya
Very well written account of what seems to be one awesome trip.
Like!
Like!
many thanks Araib....juts hope others too like my experience... -
- hi sabya,, it seems to be nice trip..I have been to the said route in 2007.. can you tell me the BABA near PINDARI GL is still there?? serving hot SUJI to the fellow trekers.....
Hi Sumanta, thanks.
Yeah, Babaji is very much there as I had mentioned in my trip report. On reaching the Babaji's Ashram, we were served tea and once we came back form the Zero Point, he served us a sumptous lunch. We were really amazed how he cares for anyone coming to Pindari offering free food to one and all. The day we were there, Babaji was overseeing some potato plantation in a small patch within his ashram. Also saw some renovation being carried out inside his inner sanctum to place a Shiv Lingam below in a cave like structure...
Yeah, Babaji is very much there as I had mentioned in my trip report. On reaching the Babaji's Ashram, we were served tea and once we came back form the Zero Point, he served us a sumptous lunch. We were really amazed how he cares for anyone coming to Pindari offering free food to one and all. The day we were there, Babaji was overseeing some potato plantation in a small patch within his ashram. Also saw some renovation being carried out inside his inner sanctum to place a Shiv Lingam below in a cave like structure...
#6 
Jul 25th, 2011, 13:33 Senior Member
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What was the charges finalized by you with Debu? Per head per day or Total package charge?
Originally Posted by Sabyasachi Bardoloi 
I discussed the finer trek details and handed over 50% advance of our agreed amount,
I discussed the finer trek details and handed over 50% advance of our agreed amount, Will you please mention total cost paid to Debu for entire trek?
“The vision must be followed by the venture. It is not enough to stare up the steps - we must step up the stairs.” - Vance Havner
As I spoke to Debu over the phone, before venturing out, he quoted Rs 1000 per day per person but since we were only 2 people (me & my wife), he informed that his margins would be low (as we were lesser number of people) requesting me to make it Rs 1250 per person per day. But eventually, he agreed to a lumpsum amount that I offered, which I felt took care of his concerns without hurting me too much.
However, as extras, which I had not calculated earlier, I had to pay 50% Max Jeep hire charges from Bageswar to Khurkia amounting Rs 1500 while he was sweet enough to bore the rest 50%. Additionally, while returning, we had to hire a Max Jeep from Talai (as we came down from Khati village via the scenic but steep Kalwatati Top-Patalkhod-Supi village route) costing me Rs 1000 to drop us at Barari, since by the time we reached late afternoon, there were no shared jeeps plying.
But I still felt his charges were very reasonable compared to charges quoted by other private operators. I was happy to pay him a little extra and to celebrate our successful trek to Pindari & Kafni, we treated Debu & his son Khilaf with a elaborate spread of non-veg dishes together at Bageshwar...
After all our taste buds too were longing for some non-veg food after consuming dal,chawal, potaoes, sabji, day-in day-out since our trek had started...
-
However, as extras, which I had not calculated earlier, I had to pay 50% Max Jeep hire charges from Bageswar to Khurkia amounting Rs 1500 while he was sweet enough to bore the rest 50%. Additionally, while returning, we had to hire a Max Jeep from Talai (as we came down from Khati village via the scenic but steep Kalwatati Top-Patalkhod-Supi village route) costing me Rs 1000 to drop us at Barari, since by the time we reached late afternoon, there were no shared jeeps plying.
But I still felt his charges were very reasonable compared to charges quoted by other private operators. I was happy to pay him a little extra and to celebrate our successful trek to Pindari & Kafni, we treated Debu & his son Khilaf with a elaborate spread of non-veg dishes together at Bageshwar...
After all our taste buds too were longing for some non-veg food after consuming dal,chawal, potaoes, sabji, day-in day-out since our trek had started...
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabyasachi Bardoloi As I spoke to Debu over the phone, before venturing out, he quoted Rs 1000 per day per person but since we were only 2 people (me & my wife), he informed that his margins would be low (as we were lesser number of people) requesting me to make it Rs 1250 per person per day. But eventually, he agreed to a lumpsum amount that I offered, which I felt took care of his concerns without hurting me too much.
As I spoke to Debu over the phone, before venturing out, he quoted Rs 1000 per day per person but since we were only 2 people (me & my wife), he informed that his margins would be low (as we were lesser number of people) requesting me to make it Rs 1250 per person per day. But eventually, he agreed to a lumpsum amount that I offered, which I felt took care of his concerns without hurting me too much. 
Rs.1250 per person per day! Yeah Mr Pathak, I too realized Debu's rate to be reasonable, despite the fact that it may sound a bit high to some people. -.
In fact, I too approached Debu, the contact details of which I had accessed through IM only, after duely cross checking with fellow IMer who had utilized his services earlier.
I discovered him to be a honest, sincere and hardworking person doing his job well to earn his living and I did not feel bad that if I had to pay a little extra for the wonderful services he provided....
Situation for people going with family would be different to people going alone or in a all male member group, who would be fine to do Pindari & Kafni trek without taking the services of any guide. A porters or two should work fine suiting their budgets as well...
-. In fact, I too approached Debu, the contact details of which I had accessed through IM only, after duely cross checking with fellow IMer who had utilized his services earlier.
I discovered him to be a honest, sincere and hardworking person doing his job well to earn his living and I did not feel bad that if I had to pay a little extra for the wonderful services he provided....
Situation for people going with family would be different to people going alone or in a all male member group, who would be fine to do Pindari & Kafni trek without taking the services of any guide. A porters or two should work fine suiting their budgets as well...
Hi - joined IM recently. 5-6 of us (all guys - ranging from fit to okay fitness) planning a trek to Pindari in Aug11 end, three questions:
1. Can someone give Debu's number and / or recommend a good agency.
2. Which are the comfortable places to stay at Dhakuri, Dwali and Khati
3. We plan to camp at zero point and trek on the glacier itself - has anyone done that? Is it risky?
1. Can someone give Debu's number and / or recommend a good agency.
2. Which are the comfortable places to stay at Dhakuri, Dwali and Khati
3. We plan to camp at zero point and trek on the glacier itself - has anyone done that? Is it risky?
#12
Aug 2nd, 2011, 16:34 Senior Member
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Just call to Debu and fix him. He is much better than any agency.
Originally Posted by rajatsurey 1. Can someone give Debu's number and / or recommend a good agency. : 05963219300 / Debu is an agency in himself.
2. Which are the comfortable places to stay at Dhakuri, Dwali and Khati : Just go & chechk, accommodations are no problems at any places.
3. We plan to camp at zero point and trek on the glacier itself - has anyone done that? Is it risky? : Please call to Debu and check with him.
1. Can someone give Debu's number and / or recommend a good agency. : 05963219300 / Debu is an agency in himself.2. Which are the comfortable places to stay at Dhakuri, Dwali and Khati : Just go & chechk, accommodations are no problems at any places.
3. We plan to camp at zero point and trek on the glacier itself - has anyone done that? Is it risky? : Please call to Debu and check with him.
Camping can perhaps be done before Zero point not precisely at Zero Point itself.
Approach to Zero Point is a narrow trail and I do not think it would be possible to camp out there. I recall seeing a few tents before Zero Point somewhere near Babaji's ashram. We were told that an Australian couple has set up camp somewhere beyond Zero point but it is advised not to venture beyond Zero Point, unless you are an experienced mountaineer, equiped with heavy mountain gears.
As suggested by Mr Pathak, check with Debu for more clearity. Dwali has a PWD guest house but no beds, you have to carry sleeping bags, but KMVN Tourist Hut Dwali has proper beds.
At Khati, you can stay at Sangam Guest House but I would suggest one stays at Dau Village, about a kilometer before Khati from where you get awesome views of the Maiktoli peak also the view cute Khati village as if in a suspended state.
rgds,
Sabya
http://sabyasachi.travellerspoint.com/14/
Approach to Zero Point is a narrow trail and I do not think it would be possible to camp out there. I recall seeing a few tents before Zero Point somewhere near Babaji's ashram. We were told that an Australian couple has set up camp somewhere beyond Zero point but it is advised not to venture beyond Zero Point, unless you are an experienced mountaineer, equiped with heavy mountain gears.
As suggested by Mr Pathak, check with Debu for more clearity. Dwali has a PWD guest house but no beds, you have to carry sleeping bags, but KMVN Tourist Hut Dwali has proper beds.
At Khati, you can stay at Sangam Guest House but I would suggest one stays at Dau Village, about a kilometer before Khati from where you get awesome views of the Maiktoli peak also the view cute Khati village as if in a suspended state.
rgds,
Sabya
http://sabyasachi.travellerspoint.com/14/
Thanks pnp and sabya for your responses - this is a very informative forum.
Spoke to Debu - he has promised that Camp 2, 3 km from Zero Point is doable for fit trekkers with an ice axe and some ropes (takes 3.5 hours). There is also a Camp 1, 0.5 km from zero point for lesser mortals. I am checking with other travellers, but most probably will be going with him.
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