Madurai

lonelyaztec

Madurai is a filthy temple city and is the 2nd largest in Tamilnadu. Off late it has become popular because it is home to one of the largest Hindu temple complex – the Madurai Meenaksi Temple.

Every time I went to Madurai, I took the Pandian Express, it leaves Chennai Egmore Station at 8 pm and reaches Madurai at about 8 am the next morning.

Situated on the banks of river Vaigai, Madurai has a rich cultural heritage passed on from the great Tamil era more than 2500 years old. Madurai was an important cultural and commercial centre even as early as 550 AD. It was the capital city for the great Pandya kings.

The Pandyan King Kulasekarar built a great temple – the Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple and created a lotus shaped city around the temple. On the day the city was to be named, as Lord Shiva blessed the land and its people, divine nectar (Madhu) was showered on the city from his matted locks. This city was henceforth known as Madhurapuri.

The entire city of Madurai, is built around the Temple. Concentric rectangular streets surround the temple, symbolizing the structure of the cosmos.

As early as the 3rd century BC, Megasthanes visited Madurai. Later many people from Rome and Greece visited Madurai and established trade with the Pandya kings. Madurai flourished till 10th century AD when it was captured by Cholas the arch rivals of the Pandyas.

The Cholas ruled Madurai from 920 AD till the beginning of the 13th century. In 1223 AD Pandyas regained their kingdom and once again become prosperous. Pandian Kings patronised Tamil language in a great way. During their period, many master-pieces were created, Silapathikaram being one of them.

In April 1311, Malik Kafur, the general of Alauddin Khilji who was then the ruler of Delhi, reached Madurai and raided and robbed the city off precious stones, jewels, and other rare treasures. This led to the subsequent raids by other Muslim Sultans. In 1323, the Pandya kingdom including Madurai became a province of the Delhi empire, under the Tughlaks.

In 1371, the Vijayanagar dynasty of Hampi captured Madurai and it became part of the Vijayanagar empire. Kings of this dynasty were in habit of leaving the captured land to governors called Nayaks. This was done for the efficient management of their empire.
The Nayaks paid fixed amount annually to the Vijayanagar empire. After the death of Krishna Deva Raya (King of Vijayanagar empire) in 1530 AD, the Nayaks became independent and ruled the territories under their control. Among Nayaks, Thirumalai Nayak (1623-1659) was very popular, even now he is popular among people, since, it was he who contributed to the creation of many magnificent structures in and around Madurai. The Raja Gopuram of the Meenakshi Amman Temple, The Pudu Mandapam and The Thirumalai Nayakar's Palace are living monuments to his artistic fervor.

Madurai started slipping into the hands of the British's East India Company. In 1781, British appointed their representatives to look after Madurai. George Procter was the first collector of Madurai.After India's independence, Madurai is one of the major districts of Tamilnadu State. Later on Madurai district was bifurcated into two districts namely Madurai and Dindugul Districts.

The history of Madurai will not be complete without mentioning the name of Rani Mangammal, the woman of great skill and sagacity. History does not provide many instances of ruling queens in Tamil Nadu. Though it was considered that women were not suited to succeed the throne of a kingdom, Rani Mangammmal, however shines in almost solitary eminence as an able and powerful ruler in Tamil Nadu.

Madurai is famous for its temples. The Aappudaiyaar Koyil Tevara Stalam and the Koodalazhagar Divya Desam are the most important temples one should rarely miss to go. In the vicinity of Madurai is Tirupparamkunram, one of the 6 padai veedu shrines of Murugan (glorified in Madurai Sangam Nakeerar’s Tirumurugaatruppadai). Also is Alagar Koyil, one of the prominent Divya Desam shrines of the Sri Vaishnavite faith.

Meenakshi - SundareshwararTemple - The enormous temple complex is dedicated to Shiva, known here as Sundareshvara and his consort Parvati or Meenakshi. The original temple was built by Kulasekara Pandya, but the entire credit for making the temple as splendid as it is today goes to the Nayaks.

The temple complex is within a high-walled enclosure, at the core of which are the two sanctums for Meenakshi and Sundareshwara, surrounded by a number of smaller shrines and grand pillared halls. Especially impressive are the 12 gopuras or towers and are covered with stucco figures of dieties, mythical animals and monsters painted in vivid colours.

Many festivals are celebrated in the Meenakshi temple which is known as the 'Temple of feasts'. The numerous festivals celebrated at the shrine almost around the year, represent the ideas and thoughts of the cultured and progressive people of that region in the field of philosophy, religion, science and art.

The other important features of complexes within the temple complex are the Ashta Shakthi Mandapam, Meenakshi Nayakkar Mandapam, Potramaraikulam ( Golden Lotus Pond ), Oonjal Mandama ( Swing Mandapam ), Swami Sundareswarar Shrine, Velli Ambalam or Silver Hall, 1000 pillar mandapam with the musical pillars, Vasantha Mandapam,Thirumalai

Nayakars Palace - Nayaka's architectural masterpiece was his own palace. Even in its present remnants show, what a marvellous building it should have been when it was completed in 1636 A.D. There is a tradition that Chokkanatha Nayaka, his grandson, dismantled portions of the palace and its golden decorations and other ornamental structures and transferred them to Tiruchirapally. The great palace was allowed to be neglected and go to ruin. In 1886 A.D., when Lord Napier was the British Governor of Madras, he ordered to preserve this palace as a historical monument.

Vaigai Dam – This dam on river Vaigai is a very beautiful picnic spot, obviously, it is across the Vaigai river.

Kodai Kanal – Kodai is a hill station and is about 120 kms from Madurai.

Getting there :

Air : Madurai has a airport.

Road : Madurai is well connected by Road from all the other major cities.

Rail : Madurai has a railway station

Trip Duration : 2 days

Getting Around : Autos or Taxis

Best time to get there : August to November

Accomodation :

Hotel Royal Court , 4, West VeliI Street, Madurai - 625 001 , Opp: Railway Station,
Phone: +91-452 - 5356666(Hunting Lines) , Fax: 0452 - 5373333 , Email: royalcourt@eth.net

Hotel Best Western Germanus, 28,Bypass Road, Arasaradi, Madurai-625 010. Phone : 91-452-2382001 (7 LINES) , Fax : 91-452-2381478

Hotel Madurai Residency, 15,West Marret Street, Madurai -1. , Phone : 0452 2343140

Madura Park Inn, 38, Madakulam Main Road, Palanganatham, Madurai - 3. Phone:2371155

Taj Garden Retreat, Pasumalai Hill, Madurai-4 , Ph:2371601 (8 lines )

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Aztec

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alextur

I am going to visit Madurai in January next year and I have read your article about Madurai with a big interest though I read many others before.Thank you.
My question is : do you know or where can I have some knowledge about what are those deities and sacred animals mean on Meenakshi Temple Gopuras? What that meaning of all those statues which are going up to the Sky ( Heaven) ? I tried many sources but they are saying nothing but it is architectural issue. I know for sure it means something sacred and divine, but what?

LArkitekt

let me make a correction to the schedule...it leaves chennai at 9.30 pm and reaches madurai at 6.20am.

Nick-H

Whoa!

Train times may have changed in 18 months!

If you have anything constructive to add, please do so.

Otherwise, why bother?

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LArkitekt

train timings of both Vaigai and Pandiyan have been the pretty much the same for a long time...and they never took 12 hours between chennai and madurai.

my mistake on not seeing the age of the post...

Nick-H

It can happen.

So can being grumpy

ananda2193

Here's from a pamplet I got there when I was there in 1990.


As it is customary to worship first Devi Meenakshi and then Lord Sunareshwarar people enter the temple through the Ashta Sakthi Mandapam on the eastern street.

ASHTA SAKTHI MANDAPAM:

Over the entrance to the Ashta Sakthi Mandapam is found the sculptural representation of the wedding of Meenakshi. The images of Ganesa and Subramanya are seen on either side. The Mandapam is so called after the figures of 8 Sakthis represented on the pillars on the 2 sides. On the walls are seen paintings and sculptured figures depicting scenes from the Thiruvilayadal Puranam. The figures of the 4 great Saivite saints adorn the Mandapam on the eastern side.

MEENAKSHI NAICKEN MANDAPAM:

Crossing the Ashta Sakthi Mandapam we come to the extensive Meenakshi Naicken Mandapam, named after its builder. It has 5 aisles separated by 6 rows of stone pillars on which are carved yalis and other figures. Connecting this Mandapam with the Ashta Sakthi Mandapam is a hall where the idols of Siva and Parvathi in their manifestation as a hunter and huntress never fail to evoke our admiration. At the western end of this Mandapam is the massive Thiruvatchi containing 1008 brass oil lamps.

MUDALI PILLAI MANDAPAM:

A splendid Chitra Gopuram invites us to the Mudali Pillai Mandapam, also known as Dark Mandapam. Of the numerous carvings here, the figures of Bikshadanar, of the infatuated wives of the rishis of Tharugavana and of Mohini, are the most outstanding, and each one has a tale to tell. The images of Maruga and Vinayaka and that of Kadanthai Mudaliar who built this Mandapam are also admireable monolithic pieces of art.


There's alot more info about the sculptures inside but it would take me forever to type it.

Hope this info helps alittle.

moo

'filthy temple city' is also a little dated - Madurai now has a legion of street-cleaners . . .

alextur

Thanks a lot for even little excerpt from that pamphlet.

alextur

Hi'll,
Who knows a real schedule for Chennai- Madurai trains at day time? Or where can I get it ? Thanks in advance.

kumaran

Pls visit Indian Railways Online Passenger Reservation Site Providing Availability etc.. and you will be surprised to find a load of information , complete and also can book online. It is amazing that they have become so tech savvy .

steven_ber

The following is from another post.

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alextur

Thanks you guys, Kumaran & Steven Ber, for help!

alextur

Does anybody help me with the following: since I am going stay in Madurai for 8 days I am going to visit some cities-temples around it.
What is the best - to visit Chidambaram, Kumbakonam, Trichy and Thanjavur from Madurai or it is better to visit those sights from Chennai? From viewing the map of Tamil Nadu it looks to me as Madurai is the best departure point. But what is your opinion, guys, based on your living in there or had some experience travelling there before? And if I am going to use a car with driver - how much would it cost for a day ?

evilnyberg

i can't give you any help with regards to the cost of a car + diver but have just some back from a trip around tamil nadu and would say that may as well use buses for these types of trips. (your destinations are reasonably small places, so a driver shouldn't be required once you get there.) there are frequent buses to major desinations from madurai's bus station, which is a few kms (an easy auto ride) outside town. e.g. the bus to trichy takes 3 hrs and there should be one every 15 mins or so.

if i may recommend an addition to you itinerary, rameswaram is about a 4 hour busride away from madurai and absolutely stunning. the temple here is unusual in the sense that it is built on top of a series of wells, in which pilgrims bathe - this makes for quite a different temple experience than you'll have elsewhere in tamil nadu! also, the trip out to adam's bridge (or 'the end of the world') is well worth it! (i could go on about this place for hrs... )

bus journeys from madurai to tanjavur / kumbakonam / chidambaram will be significantly longer (chidambaram is a whopping 8 hrs and buses are much less frequent) so you might want to consider dividing your time between chennai and madurai, and visiting places en route between the two, or seeing the destinations that make the most sense (travelling-wize) from each place.

good luck, and let us know if you need any more help!

a