To Sikkim,with love

Just came back from an ethereal experience called North sikkim.

Thanks to all members on this forum I planned my trip well in advance. Every little detail/advice I gathered from you all helped me to go along smoothly throughout our stay there.

PELING
We arrived on NJP rly st. on 25th april morning and headed straight to Peling in West Sikkim. All those pouring over numerous websites, detailed accounts had made me very expectant of the journey to Peling. Frankly I was expecting some out of this world kind of locale...and so understandably I was disappointed on way to Peling.But it ebbed when we checked in to a beautiful hotel Mt Pandim (Elgin group).It was located right on top of the hill with views of Majestic Kanchendzonga and snow capped peaks from every window,lounge,dining,lawns. We were lucky to have a clear weather next early morning and could see the sunrise in its full glory on the eternal peaks. The resort is a heritage property, nicely done, some of the most beautiful originals (sketches)by Doughlas, friendly staff and a very very repetitive and boring buffet menu.Rabandste ruins and the ancient monastery were walking distance from Mt.Pandim.In any case you have to trek about 2km or so through a dense botanical reserve area to reach the ancient Capital site-Rabandste ruins.Walking through it I realized that this is Just the beginning of a very beautiful trip.We stayed in Peling for three days ,every morning from 4:30 am onwards dutifully gaped at the Mighty Mountains,visited the serene Wishing lake,dropped the idea of going to Youksam,relaxed and waited with bated breaths for the magic to unfold further.

GANGTOK/TSOMGO LAKE

It took us four hours to reach Gangtok and yes now journey was green and Teesta was not so muddy.We checked in Hotel Delamere, 2 minutes walk from taxi stand and M.G.Road. Gangtok is a nice hiil city much much better than any other capital hill cities.But it is on the verge of choking.Anyway I fell in love with M G Road immediately.Nice place to while away your evening. Now the permits for Tsomgo Lake and North Sikkim are issued the same day,and for Nathu La permits were not being issued for 15 days or so due to land slides. So we contented ourselves with just Tsomgo.Started our journey upwards next morning at around 11am,it was raining, and many drivers had backed out from going there for fear of stucking up on way due to bad weather.Few days back around 150 tourist cars had been stuck for hours due to landslides. But we started though late and it took us two and half hours of floating thru clouds, hairpin turns on edge of imaginary roads and a TRAFFIC JAM at the altitude of 12000ft to reach The Lake.Weather had cleared miraculously and the crystal clear waters were glistening under the sun.Kids were happy with the yak ride,hot bowls of maggi and played in some old swept away snow!

N SIKKIM

Next morning was the high day of our trip.We were going to much talked about N Sikkim at last!

THE Road

We started at 9:30 am due to late delivery of permit on the same morning. After leaving Gangtok landscape became greener and greener and still more green. There were numerous small hutments/houses turned roadside eateries.And still more numerous waterfalls. Flowing amidst the ranges Teesta was now pure white.From Mangan there was a steep rise in altitude.Onwards journey for 10km from Tung up to Chungthang was especially taxing to me since there was virtually no road beneath the wheels. There were very very narrow paths, cantilever turns, precipices. Hats off to all the taxi drivers and BRO labour who risk their lives everyday for our safe vacation.Some people say that transport is expensive in N Sikkim but seeing the road conditions and how deftly the drivers maneaovouere their way thru I say that they are underpaid.

LACHEN

From Chungthang there is a bifurcation to Lachen and Lachung. We headed for Lachen. No research or account had prepared me for the breathtaking beauty ahead. Mountains immediately wore an untouched, unmoved look.. We were following Teesta up to its birth place and with every curve she was all the more innocent. What we experienced on way to Lachen was worth every narrow hairpin.It was as if to reach heaven you had to work your way thru! Every turn unfolded a still more amazing vista.It took us 7hrs to reach Lachen from Gangtok but the last three hours refreshed us completely.We checked -in in a 10 month old resort Apple Orchard. I have yet to see any other resort so beautifully blended with the nature around.Chantings from the monastery nearby completed the picture perfectly. It can easily be in the list of most beautiful “off the track” luxury resort.
People usually visit Lachen to go further up to Gurudongmar but I say visit Lachen just to inhale- in the raw nature and experience Sikkim in its true flavor.If you want to do it luxuriously stay at Apple Orchard.But like a typical tourist we rushed from Lachen next evening after an ethereal experience at Gurudongmar.

What can one say of The Gurudongmar? You have to be there to believe it.

LACHUNG

Our next destination was Lachung.And I could not believe that “roads” do exist in Sikkim!
It is a quaint little village,with even quainter hutments on the slopes.Though the mindless construction will ruin it in next five years. Mayfair Yarlam is a new property there with all the facilities of a five star hotel though I wish their architect had shown some imagination in its design and layout! Once inside u are in an all familiar star category setting .
Way to Yumthang valley was blooming with rhododendrons. We stepped out and took a small trek thru the riot of colors.The actual way to feel the spirit of mountains is on foot.The eternal Teesta in Yumthang tells you how to “let go”.

Back to Gangtok in Orange Village Resort who gave us some very efficient service and excellent spread of buffet. Visited institute of Tibetology,Rumtek ,State Handicraft centre –typically it was out of stock of all the souvenirs we wanted(!) and all other curio shops were closed that day being Tuesday!!

But we brought back priceless memories from Sikkim.I hope to go to N Sikkim again not as a tourist to visit “points” but to be in harmony with the true spirit of mountains.

no high tech camera can capture the essence of north sikkim....still

http://picasaweb.google.com/11361731...eat=directlink

Very nice account!!!

Really nice description of journey through sikkim.
Your tour period and mine period in sikim nearly overlap.
I wish i had gone to pelling instead of darjeeling.

@ Haringp
thanks. you were lucky to have a snowfall in summers! we skipped katao for lack of time...wish had not spend so many days in PELING! so i guess after a great trip there always remains "i wish"............ for every body!

nice report vasu. you refreshed my memory of sikkim.

Very nice description....Brought back memories of my Sikkim trip. Nice pictures too. I too had stayed at Elgin Mt. Pandim & used to wake up each morning for awesome views of Mt. Khangchendzonga! Khangchendzonga is the peak that you can see in your 8th photo, to the right. The rest are other peaks of the Singalila mountain range.

lovely pictures Vasu
i wish i could go there.what was your trip duration for n.sikkim??

hi can u suggest a good tour opearator to book this
thanks

here is the address of the owner of Apple Orchard (Lachen)...no other tour operator provides the stay over there ..so if you want to stay there(which I highly recommend!}
The managing director Karma Doma also runs a travel agency
call: +91 0947 4837640,09609820029

C/o Hotel Bayul,M.G.Marg,Gangtok
+91 3592 204649,220902,
email:appleorchardsikkim@gmail .com