Golden valleys, towering mountains and a love affair with Kanchenjungha: Sikkim

Bad luck Sagar They don't have berths available during Dec 23-Jan1, I have to plan something else though not sure if I end up doing nothing!!!

Oh..thats bad news! Hope you manage to end up doing something!! I'd suggest that you come to Delhi..we'll have a great time

excellent writing, i am going there next year and would bug you v soon about finer details..thank you for putting your experience here..

Thanks a lot, Hermetic! I am a fan of your photos, so I'd expect to see some eye candies once you return

You are free to ask as many questions as you like.

Thanks for the invite mate! But this time around it's highly impossible Sometime later for sure

Hmmm. I'll wait

Of all things that have fascinated me since I was a child, mountains, especially the snow capped peaks are probably the most important. There’s something about them, some inexplicable majesty in them that has always agitated me to travel to their laps. The view of the snow peaks dwarfing the others; the undulating layers of dark vegetated mountains that were not fortunate enough to feel snow on their torsos, that make the white massifs tower beyond an unimaginable height, the sheer view of them standing tall clad in perpetual snow has always rendered a feeling that I can’t state in words. An unworldly yearn to drink them with my eyes, a restlessness to see them over and over again has always paralyzed me. While all massifs have beauties of their own, she, for yet another inexplicable reason has been the most beautiful in my eyes.

The feeling associated with viewing Mt. Kanchenjungha, even in half glory, is known only to someone who has actually experienced it. Its extreme elegance as it stands erect, its stunning looks with the three forks extending upto the summit, and most importantly its mystery which I attribute to her pride about her beauty makes it clearly the most coveted mountain I have ever seen. Men have dream women; I have her as mine…. I can never imagine any terrestrial thing more delicately beautiful than her.

It was well dark when I woke up, and without pampering the idea of staying back under the warm blanket for a while longer, I rushed out. I had had enough share of my misery of not seeing her a very long time, and even I was wandering around her for some time now, she had teased me by not revealing herself. I knew, she understood the intensity of my anticipation, and my senses told me that it was THE day. I didn’t want to waste a second, and went out to the dining hall. The first thing that greeted me was a chilly gust of wind, and ignoring it completely, I looked up and speared my eyes thru the darkness. What I saw was what I wanted to see so desperately….standing amidst the dark was what looked like a faint silver pyramid. It WAS her, and I dilated my pupils as much as I could to engulf her with my eyes. As it started to get clearer, she started becoming more and more prominent, and then came the time when I could sense all over me.

All my emotions seemed to have moved to my throat trying to choke me. My heart raced, and I was possibly trembling in delight. The sun was not up, but it was spotlessly clear. The gloom of the previous day was a distant (albeit sweet) memory. The rest of the world vanished, and there was only me and her. I don’t know how many extra sense I had developed, but in all probability I was hallucinating, so ecstatic I was….I could feel her smiling at me with the thick foliage below seemingly acting as her extended inviting arms. I could smell the snow on her, and could possibly touch her with my eyes. I guess I could only utter to her through my thoughts ‘I missed you….’. She blushed, and I could sense that the Sun was up. She being the queen of my heart, wore a crown of ruby, as the sun adorned her summit. Gradually a stream of molten gold started flowing down her broad shoulders, as her ridges started getting covered with a golden tint. An eruption of colors followed, she dazzled in dresses of all possible shades of red, and ultimately stood clad all orange. I have never been so mystified in my life, and never felt so helplessly happy. The silence was ripped by the sound of music rendered by innumerable birds and the gentle flow of an incensed breeze. Imagine looking at the works of Rembrandt while you hear Beethoven’s fifth symphony in the background, and you didn’t get even a fraction of the audio visual show nature created that day.

It was bright by now, and the colors started to faint from K. Suddenly an idea of visiting Kaluk possessed me. I was aware that a broader range of peaks were visible from there, and I wasted no time in venturing out to catch a shared vehicle to Kaluk. I didn’t have to wait for long, and found a jeep bound to Jorethang. The last bend before Kaluk unfolded a long range of mountains, although K loomed against the ultramarine blue sky, comfortably dwarfing her associates. I roamed like a doped man, insanely clicking photos. Although it was sunny, the avenues were dark and the buzzing insects made it look creepy. What a pleasure it was….breathing the air that had rubbed her body, watching her in full glory. She made my heart stop, she made my heart run.

I must have lost all sense about time and spent almost 2 hours at Kaluk, just feeding my eyes and my camera’s memory card. My stomach had had enough, and revolted, and a sudden churn saw me crash land into reality, and within 10 minutes I was in the back seat of a Geyzing bound jeep. Breakfast was ready by the time I returned and as my stomach fed on the earthly food, my eyes feasted on the unworldly view of a dazzling Mt. K.

As the day progressed, the clouds started wrapping her up in a blanket. She still had the smile in her face, as she promised me to meet again the next day, before disappearing behind the clouds completely.

The rest of the day was as usual – leisurely, although there was another anticipation building. I was about to meet Mithun (umm…not Chakraborty, someone much more important if you are an IMer – our very own Mithun) whom I had interacted innumerable times during the build-up phase of my trip, but had never met in person. Since they were coming from Uttarey and would travel to Chhaya Tal en route, we had enough time for another post lunch nap. Finally, as Mithun (and his friends with their respective families) arrived, it was an equal delight to meet him in person. I could sense Mithun’s excitement about the trip after seeing his tripod which would put Eiffel Tower to shame. I am sure I’d need a ladder if I wanted to fix my cam on it. Utpal and Soumya, the other two of the trio were amazing guys too, and I heard most of the stories (and a few others too) that Mithun has shared in his trip report live, as we chatted. The evening gave another opportunity of star gazing and looking at the glittering lights on the opposite mountains.

We were to travel back to Kolkata the next day, and I guess the continuous rush of adrenaline since day break had taken a toll. It was an amazing day, very high on emotions, and another such morning waited to follow. As I closed my eyes, the entire morning flashed back in my eyes, and the memories of the wonderful morning colored my dreams.

Sagar ,

U made me relive that day. This is not mare a trip report - this a true love story- a love story of a mountain lover with mountains. I could easily visualize the emotion of meeting your dearest Mt K after such a long hibernation.

I love reading travel reports in the web. It gives me a feeling of how the definition of "beauty" varies from individual to individual. For example , for most of the tourist the main attraction of Sillery was the small village inside a dense alpine wood, but to me the best attraction of Sillery was the locals of that place. So everyone have a different definition of what is the most attractive thing of a place. I have also noticed many writing where the author have described his first meet with Mt K. But Sagar , undoubtedly, IMO, this is the best narration on "affair with Mt K" available on net.

I had forwarded this link to someone last evening(It should better refer it as night), and got a reply from her this morning "This is what passion and true love is all about!!!!". It will be a treat to readers in us to read such a love story written directly from "Dil Se".

Thanks for all the good words about me and thanks for all your help during my planning phase. It was a great evening that we had spent together – enjoyed every moment of it and nevertheless will be looking forward to met you again somewhere sometime in the lap of Himalayas.

Would be eagerly waiting for the snaps.

Sagar, Your passion for the snow peak mountains are just like mine. I am actually adicted to those mountains and like to visit Himalayas again n again. I dont know, whether you have visited Ladakh or not, but with your interest and passion, I think, visiting ladakh will give u much satisfaction. But go by road only. Its little tough and time consuming but real beauty of ladakh stands only when u travel by road (either from Manali or Kashmir).

@Mithun: Thanks a lot for the words. We'll definitely meet again sometime soon. . BTW, I am really curious to know whom you forwarded this report to!!

@Ashish: Thanks again for the words. I haven't been to Ladakh, but if everything goes as per plan, I will there in Sept'12. Trust me I am more than looking forward to it. And with a few like minded people planning to travel together, its one of the most anticipated tours of my life.

Secret Sagar... Can’t reveal in public forum...

Ha ha ...jokes apart ... just a friend(Atleast as of now) ...

Sagar, if you plan for Ladakh, then plan in mid May or latest early June,looking to your passion for snow peak mountains. During this time, you will get snow even on the road while going to Ladakh and even while visiting Pangong lake and Khardung La pass (sight seeing) and the colour of snow is also pure white. If you travel these places in Sept, not only the snow is evoparated but also it becomes dirty because of traffic and public visit. So best time to explore the beauty of ladakh is mid may or early june, where you can encounter snow even on the roads at many high altitude places.

Hmmm...lemme guess!!

Thanks for the input, Ashish! However, I guess May/June won't be possible due to certain unavoidable circumstances. Lets see how things go! Thanks again for the valuable input.

Where are the snaps?

Sagar, in one word it's "Grand". You are simply compelled me to read it even when I am in the middle of something, you know what!!

Ohh, after much effort separates milk from water, what a nice conversation, I am following, please continue guys

I will suggest February begin then, much better than May/June if the priority is pure snow only. You can walk on frozen Zanskar river and if you can't manage atleast you can walk on frozen Pangong. Snow will be cleanest and not much tourist around.


I have visited Ladakh 3 times, once in May, once in August and once in Sep. Can't really say it's dirty in Sep. Sep you would get the best weather, best road, best bargain and best colors.