Darjeeling/sikkim/kolkata itinerary

tacita

thanks, indiamikers, for all the great advice you've provided in response to my several posts. i'd now welcome thoughts on how to modify this draft itinerary as may be necessary, given my unfamiliarity with the realities on the ground.

2 notes: i have to do gangtok first, as i want to be at rumtek monastery on 2/16 for the masked chaams dances that precede losar 2/18; also, Jaldhapara Wildlife sanctuary to see the one-horned rhinos from elephant back is VERY high on my must-do list, so i don't want to cut that, but could move it).

i'd appreciate knowing where i'm being unrealistic about time allotments. i know this may be way too packed - that's where YOU GUYS come in!

Tuesday 2/13, p.m., depart New York for Delhi

Wednesday 2/14, arrive Delhi Int'l Arpt 9:15 p.m.; stay overnight at Ashok Country Resort, which will provide airport transfers from intl and then to domestic in the morning)

Thursday, 2/15, 10:00 a.m. JetAirways flight to Bagdogra airport, North Bengal, arrive 12:15 p.m.; helicopter to Gangtok, weather permitting (30 minutes) OR Jeep (4 hrs).

In around Gangtok (3 nts): local sightseeing to include some or all of the following: main market; Institute of Cottage Industries; Namgyal Institute of Tibetology; Enchey Monsatery; Flower Show Complex; Do-Drul Chorten; Damovar Ropeway/Cable Car; *** Friday, 2/16 - to Rumtek Monastery and Dharma Chakra Center via jeep on 2/16 for Guthor Chaam masked dances (1/2 day?)spend rest of day local sightseeing in Gangtok

Saturday, 2/17, Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La pass (at suggestion of another poster, ask yak owner to let us ride up the ridge, rather than around the lake)

Sunday, 2/18, early a.m., Jeep to Pelling (approx 4 hours)

Sunday, 2/18 and Monday, 2/19 Pelling, Pemayangtse Monastery; Khecheopalri Lake; Khangchendzonga Falls (by jeep? order of visits?)

Tuesday, 2/20, early a.m., send bags ahead to Yuksom and take day trek there, passing through Lepchas village (need to get more details on how to work this out locally); Tuesday night, stay in Yuksom

Wednesday, 2/21: leave Yukson for Darjeeling by jeep; (stay at Windmere?); local sightseeing in Darjeeling 2/21 and 2/22 (Observatory Hill, Yoga Choeling monastery; local bazaars; Tibetan Refugee Center; Ghoom; toy train)

Thursday, 2/22, rise early for jeep to Tiger Hill to see sunrise; spend rest of day sightseeing in/around Darjeeling

Friday, 2/23, leave Darjeeling for Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary; spend Friday night at one of sanctuary lodges.

Saturday, 2/24, depart by jeep for New Jaipalguri.

Saturday night 2/24: overnight train New Jaipalguri to Kolkata

Sunday, 2/25, 6:00 a.m., arrive Kolkata, check into hotel; rest and local sightseeing

Monday, 2/26, picked up at hotel by representative from Sahay organization for 60-mile trip to see child I sponsor.

Tuesday, 2/27, local sightseeing in Kolkata; depart late p.m. via JetAirways for Delhi.

Tuesday night, 2/27: overnight near airport again at Ashok Country resort

Wednesday afternoon, 2/28,depart for New York.

any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

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machadinha

From my knowledge and experience, you stand next to no chance of seeing them there, although they're certainly supposed to be around. This may have improved however. If you go, plan on several days + trips to increase your chances. For the rhinos I'd advise a trip to Kaziranga (Assam) instead where seeing them is supposed to be more-or-less guaranteed (haven't visited the latter).

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Palexurdy

Or even Manas NP, which is a little nearer.

tacita

ok, well, i will confess: it's more about riding the elephant around a lovely park (or anywhere, for that matter, as we don't have elephants in new york city's central park!) i won't feel deprived if i don't actually see any particular species, tho' the rhinos would be rather special.

machadinha

The elephant rides are great, so if they still do that just go for it. It's a beautiful environment too, you'll get a glimpse across the Bhutanese border even if that's where they take you. Himalayan backdrop along the forests and plains... hmmm where's my teleporter. We stayed in Hasimara I think (*Mahadirat actually), nice surroundings in itself. One street with half a chai shop and f''' all to do mind, and you'll be accommodated by the forest guards who have a lot more on their minds than just you. But we enjoyed it a lot. There may be a Holiday Inn by now for all I know, I just somehow doubt it.

I only got to see a fleeing deer's ass there (apart from a whole lotta monkeys which you'll see in any town), something to do no doubt with an Indian father sharing our howdah who had his expat son visiting which inspired him to comment on all things foresty in no uncertain tone for the whole ride, I've described it before I think. It's a nice experience though, even just hanging out with the mahouts and their animals is something else.

The rhino herds there are just really small, even Indian aficionados I spoke to going there told me that it's difficult to get to see them. So unless they've significantly grown over the past decade don't expect too much of it.

I'd still advice making it two or three nights if you can, to see some other animals too. There's supposed to be panthers and stuff. Looks like the rest is pretty tight too however -- up to you. I'd try and fit in more time for Darjeeling and Kolkata for that matter, but I can't really see how to. I guess concentrating on Sikkim is actually the wise thing to do as it seems to be your main interest.

tacita

thanks for your input. you see there's a theme here...elephant rides, yak rides...

i know well that there's so much more to see than i can possibly plan for on one trip. i console myself with a reminder that this is merely the first of many trips to india (or so i hope). true to theme, i want to ride camels, too (!), in the west, but this plan arose from reading about the chaams preceding losar and wanting to see my sponsee, near kolkata. i built the trip around those two things and it just got more expansive the more i read. and it's still such a small area of such a vast country! hopefully, i'm not giving anything such short shrift as to be wasting time on it (or maybe i'm giving EVERYTHING short shrift!) i want to get a feel for the unique mix of cultures in sikkim, see some mountains, have the toy and overnight train experiences, ride elephants and yaks, of course, see my kid, have at least a small amount of time in a large city...yeah, it's a bit of a fly-over. but, like you said, there doesn't seem to be anyway around it - other than to return!

machadinha

Well a yak ride should be something anyway, didn't know you could. Are you sure they don't hoist your luggage onto them & you get to walk or ride a horse? I'm ready to believe you mind, besides even the latter scenario sounds like fun. Just I thought even the locals don't ride them.

I think stick to your Sikkim trip, accept the fact that the rest will be shortish, and expect to come back with more plans than you can handle yes. And take some time with that adoptee of yours! Although I don't know the history of it all, imagine what that will mean to the kid!

tacita

apparently, there's a rather touristy attraction at tsomgo lake where one can ride a yak around the lake (see, e.g., http://news.bbc.co.uk/nol/shared/spl...pot/img/6.jpg). in a post somewhere here or on another forum (yes, i've been unfaithful!) a writer suggested i ask "the yak and the yak owner" to take me instead up to the ridge. don't know whether that's seriously an option, but i'd give it a try to avoid the yak theme-park feel.

vistet

I take it you´ll spend the night around Tsomgo...or ? , which appears to be around 4000 meters. A big leap from Gangtok , which is located at under 1800 meters.
Personally I would avoid doing it this way - a lot of people are in some way sapped after doing Srinagar-Leh (1700-3500) or Manali-Leh (2050-3500) , and 500 meters extra can mean a lot in this context.

I would look in to the possibility of doing Pelling first , both because of more time in general for altitude acclimatisation, and because it´s some 400 meters higher than Gangtok.

I have no idea of how the practicalities of this would work out , having spent minimal time in Sikkim.

This no doom and gloom message, frothing mouth type of statement , but I think you have a better chance of enjoying Tsomgo and Nathu La this way, esp. the night involved.

tacita

vistet,
no gloom or doom inferred at all! thanks for your post. i wonder, though, whether you might be thinking we'll be hiking more than we actually plan. other than the one day, low-altitude trek from pelling, our derrieres will largely (no pun intended, even though we ARE americans!) be squired around by jeep, rather than on foot. of course, there's lots of the up and down hills to be expected in any mountainous area, and we are, in fact, in good shape. but we definitely won't be hiking up any mountains! or have i grossly underestimated the affects of such altitude changes irrespective?
thanks again for your post.

machadinha

Well it's definitely something to take into consideration. It will affect you no matter what physical exertions you plan on on the spot, although your overall physical condition will help. Have you ever been that high up before? Speedy transport up high & then a possible stay will only exacerbate things as you'll have no time to acclimatize.

I'm not much of a trekker or mountaineer but have fallen quite ill at much lower altitudes. If you aren't either, maybe read up on altitude sickness a little, also how to recognize symptoms. One interesting one for instance is that the patient is unwilling to recognize the symptoms and can get quite aggressive about any suggestions to do something about it (mainly involving getting to a lower altitude ASAP).

Maybe a speedy ride up & down works differently but I've been unwell just on mountain rides yes, and this is much-reported from the Himalayas. I think Vistet was bringing it to you rather gently, this is not nothing you're looking at.

It also looks like you plan on getting going immediately in Gangtok, I wonder if it doesn't take a few days acclimatizing even there. Haven't checked on its altitude though.

paharganj21

Thursday, 2/15, 10:00 a.m. JetAirways flight to Bagdogra airport, North Bengal, arrive 12:15 p.m.; helicopter to Gangtok, weather permitting (30 minutes) OR Jeep (4 hrs).

yeah take the helicopter. saves time.


In around Gangtok (3 nts): local sightseeing to include some or all of the following: main market; Institute of Cottage Industries; Namgyal Institute of Tibetology; Enchey Monsatery; Flower Show Complex; Do-Drul Chorten; Damovar Ropeway/Cable Car;

add the legislative assembly and local parliament. and "nam nam view point". you will get very good pictures from the ropeway of the assembly building.




Saturday, 2/17, Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La pass (at suggestion of another poster, ask yak owner to let us ride up the ridge, rather than around the lake)

nathu la pass is beyond limits for foreigners.
but you can see tsongmo lake and the "baba mandir".

you could pack lunch and have it beside the lake somewhere. you could take yak rides too - but you cant stay overnight at the lake!!


Sunday, 2/18, early a.m., Jeep to Pelling (approx 4 hours)

Sunday, 2/18 and Monday, 2/19 Pelling, Pemayangtse Monastery; Khecheopalri Lake; Khangchendzonga Falls (by jeep? order of visits?)

ok in pelling dont miss the following - RABDENGCHI/rabdengtze ruins, dharap village, yuksam trekkers village. dont miss the "monastry" on the right hand side, on the way to kelchopari lake.

from yuksam village walk to the coronation throne of sikkim, where the kingdom of sikkim was formed by tibetan lammas. there is another lake, to the right hand side, on the way to the coronation throne. dont miss that either. also walk to the "dubdi monastry.

kanchenzonga falls is no big deal. nothing special.



Tuesday, 2/20, early a.m., send bags ahead to Yuksom and take day trek there, passing through Lepchas village (need to get more details on how to work this out locally); Tuesday night, stay in Yuksom

yes very good idea to stay at yuksom trekkers village. lepcha's village = dharap village.


Wednesday, 2/21: leave Yukson for Darjeeling by jeep; (stay at Windmere?); local sightseeing in Darjeeling 2/21 and 2/22 (Observatory Hill, Yoga Choeling monastery; local bazaars; Tibetan Refugee Center; Ghoom; toy train)

you cant get a jeep from yuksam i think. you will have to come back to pelling. ask at "father travels" in pelling.



Thursday, 2/22, rise early for jeep to Tiger Hill to see sunrise; spend rest of day sightseeing in/around Darjeeling

yes. dont miss the monastry's in Ghooom and the japanese pagoda in darjeeling.

tacita

thank you SO very much for your helpful comments - the acclimatization is now worrying me, though! yes, i'll read up on this. and the denial issue, too. altitude sickness and schizophrenia seem to have that in common! get me my tin-foil hat!

so, paharganj21, do you think i'm trying to cram in too much? if something must be cut, what should it be? (assuming, of course, that i'm not rushed back down to lower altitude promptly upon my arrival in gangtok!)

thanks again.

machadinha

Hm yes, didn't mean to alarm you more than you need to. It's something to take into account however.

I got rather unwell in winter in Darjeeling, which should really be too low for any of that, technically speaking. It was the end of my trip and I was tired and travelling too fast trying to do too much and staying in a place with no heater, none of which will have helped. Only much later did I read about altitude sickness and realized this is probably what struck me there. Nothing serious but it can be at higher altitudes. And yes, I got even more stubborn than I am and didn't heed anyone's advice.

I was later confirmed on this board among others that it can strike at altitudes as low as that. I'm also thinking of a car ride through the Andes which is quite a bit higher than that as a kid and being very sick.

Hopefully Vistet will be back with more advice, he knows what he's talking about, I don't. I was just getting these visions now of you looking at an atlas going "tralali, hey Sikkim looks nice." I know Lhasa or Leh takes most people several days to get going, don't know how Gangtok compares though. Could look it up height-wise but that you can do yourself.

(Symptoms: being endlessly cold unless I were in the direct sun; sleeplessness combined with not being able to wake up when I slept; getting into unnecessary fights, even with those close to me; general feeling of unwellness but never making the click of I need to get out of here; being adverse to good advice indeed; nausea, headaches; and drinking alcohol on top of all that to stay warm which is a very bad idea anyway but it's what many locals do for lack of a heater.)

Well my usual lengthy way to give you a gentle nudge to realize what you're doing, again wait for Vistet and the likes. I assume you'll be alright.

Have you looked at his Google Earth Nathu La pic? Gives you an idea. http://www.indiamike.com/photopost/s...ds/name/vistet. Click on it to enlarge.

paharganj21

no u r not rushing.

a few tips -

make sure u go to gangtok by chopper not car. that way u will have about 3 hours for sightseeing on reaching gangtok. see the "mg road" and the assembly that day.

that day and the rest should be enough to see all of gangtok and rumtek. for restaurants try "orchid" (or was it "oriental"!!) at the end of m.g.road. another decent place is the "blue sheeep" above the "sikkim tourism dept" office (at the beginning of mg road).

next day you can see tsongmo/changu lake and baba mandir. have picnic lunch there is u want, but no night stay at lake!! yak rides are possible and recommended !!

in pelling, as i said, dont miss rabdengche & pemyengtse. there's another place called gayzing/geyzing (about 20 kms from pelling), will beautiful views of the mountain range. you will encouter this place on the way from gangtok to pelling. i suggest you take a jeep from gangtok to geyzing. check out the place and views for about 2 hours (any hotel will keep your luggage for 50 bucks or lesser). then take another jeep (easily available) to pelling. if you want a real backpackers shack in pelling, then get into the "garuda" hotel. it has goood views of the kanchendzonga too. you can see geyzing, rabdengtse and pemyengtse in one day. nothing else in pelling.


next day go to dharap village, then to kelchopari lake and the "monastry" to the right hand side. finally to yuksam village. get into some hotel there. see the coronation site, the lake beside it and the dubdi monastry.

next day morning come to darjeeling via pelling or directly if possible.

rest of that day and rest of next day (after tiger hill at dawn) should be enough for darjeeling. if you want to ride the toy trian, you have to book in advance.

i havent been to the forest santuary, so cant help u there.