A travelogue to West Sikkim – the untouched heaven on earth

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#1 Jan 17th, 2010, 23:09
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  • hazra_amit is offline
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[B]A travelogue to West Sikkim – the untouched heaven on earth[/B]

After all the help received from Indiamike friends in planning my itinerary, it’s now my turn to pen down the travel story of West Sikkim…..
For pictures of this whole trip please follow the link below
http://picasaweb.google.com/hazramit...eat=directlink

[I]Day 1. 12.10.09.[/I] After a full day in office we (me and my wife) headed again for Sikkim – the untouched heaven on earth – this time to the west – Kaluk/ Rinchenpong, Uttare and then to Pelling and Yuksom. The train (Darjeeling mail) left on time (10:05 pm). With my earlier unforgettable memories of north sikkim I look forward to the next morning…..

Day 2. 13.10.09 The train reached NJP almost on time (8:15 am). Our 1st destination was Kaluk where we stayed for the next 2 days. We couldn’t manage to get any shared car from NJP to Kaluk (since it is a little off-beat destination…. In the words of the touts “aap to India se US jana chhahte hai “). Since the full reserved car will cost us Rs 2300 we decided to take a rickshaw (Rs 50) to SNT bus terminal hoping that we could get a share service zeep from SNT to Jorethang and from Jorethang to Kaluk. It took us around 45 mins and by the time we reach SNT counter it’s almost 9:15 am. But this time our luck betrayed. The service zeep had already left and the next one was at 2 pm. We had no other option other than to reserve the whole Savari zeep to Kaluk. We managed to bargain at Rs 1400 with the condition that the middle seat will be only for two of us. Savari arrived at 11:15 and left SNT at 12 noon. Though the road conditions were a bit bumpy, first Teesta and later Rangeet flowing side by side made this 5hr journey quite soothing. We started to hear the call of the mountains……
We had a 10 min tea break (and that too with lovely hot samosas) at Jorethang. We reached Kaluk at 5 pm via Reshi and Rinchenpong. There was still some light… Kaluk is a small picturesque village with a little bazaar area. We booked Kanchan Valley Tourist lodge for 2 nights @ Rs 660/ night from Kolkata. The zeep left us in front of the hotel reception and amazingly even though everything was open, there was not a single person around. I went upstairs to the 5th floor and found everybody was sleeping in the staff room!!! So peaceful!!! Anyway we had our room at the 4th floor (room no 401) beside the roof-top restaurant. The room was quite big, nicely decorated, very clean, and with attached bath with 24 hrs hot water facility and a window opening to the lush green mountains. Overall it’s nice.
After a quick fresh up we strolled in the bazaar area (consisting of very few shops and eateries) and had our first Momo. It’s cheap and delicious. It’s already dark now and we could see the opposite hills (Pelling/ Geyzing) sparkling like a necklace!! The view was really spectacular. Just opposite of Kanchan valley lodge if you walk down a little bit – you get 3 resorts – Ghonday Village Resort, Rinchenpong Village Resort and Mandarin Village Resort (owned by 3 brothers). We met Mr. D.P.Gurung the owner of the Ghonday Village Resort, a very nice man…. who showed us his beautiful resort. Though the resort is a bit expensive but it’s really worth it (especially the Honeymoon suite). He invited us for tea and we chatted for a while. We walked back (a lovely nice walk with the chilling wind and the fireflies) to our hotel and had a nice dinner in the roof-top restaurant. The food was really great.. (Bengali as well as Chinese cuisine were available at a reasonable rate). Mr. Subroto Sarkar the all-in-all manager (as well as the owner’s brother) is a very nice person who really cares for his guests. His warm hospitality and friendly behavior made our stay comfortable and homely.

Day 3. 14.10.09. We woke up early hoping to have a clear view of the Kanchenjungha (we heard that for the last 2 weeks the weather was cloudy and the snowpeaks were not clearly visible). Though the weather in Kaluk was quite clear and sunny but some patches of clouds on the Himalayas made it difficult to see the full range clearly. Sometimes a little glimpse of the snow cladded peaks…..and again it vanishes….. The Hide and seek continued the whole morning….. We had our morning tea in the bazaar area, and after a quick stroll around, we visited the Durga Kali temple - just a quick walk on the top of the hill in the bazaar. After having a superb breakfast with Luchi-alurdom (the Bengali’s favourite) we headed for Rinchenpong around 9 am. We needed to hire a maruti van for Rs 50 to Rinchenpong (3 km from kaluk). From Rinchenpong bazaar we walked uphill and first visited the Poison lake. The walk to the lake, a little bit down the slope surrounded by the jungle and with a history of poisoning the British army, was really thrilling. You could only hear your own footsteps… then we walked up to a very nice colourful monastry – Rinchenpong monastry. The silence of the hills, the blue sky, the enchanting prayers and the coloured flags all around will surely mesmerize you. You can also visit the Rheesum monastry on the top of the hill following a steep forest trail. The view from the top is awesome. While walking down we visited the British forest bungalow where Rabindranath Tagore had once stayed during his visit to Rinchenpong. You can also visit the traditional Lepcha house. Then we walked back to the bazaar and had our lunch (with alu-posto and egg curry) in the hotel Demzong. After lunch we also visited Rabindra Smriti Bon in Meggi-dara where a new monastry is being built. We came back to Kaluk on the afternoon with a share zeep (Rs 10 per head). In the evening we tried local Maggi (prepared a little bit differently…. and its really tasty !!) from a small restaurant in the bazaar. We couldn’t get anything else as the next day was “Haat” (weekly market)…. and we were really amazed to see that everybody in the family was busy preparing something (samosa, chowmein etc etc…) for the next day. As if an event will be coming up…. Candle-lit dinner (Nan with Chicken curry) served on the roof top restaurant with a soft music and a chill wind from the sparkling hills was really ecstatic to end the day……

Day 4. 15.10.09. Next morning we woke up at 4:45 am hoping that God’s choicest blessings will be showered on us. I just peeped through the roof-top restaurant….. it was still dark, but the snow-clad Himalayas was still visible. I was overwhelmed. It was awesome. The sky gradually became totally clear and Oh my God…what a majestic view!!!!. I just cannot describe it in words….. only I tried to frame every moment of it by clicking my digi-cam. With the sun rise, the colour change on the Kanchenjungha was really magnificent. We were just stucked there for the next 2 hrs. Nature’s presentation at its best……
After that 2 hr spellbound show we had our breakfast with ‘Thukpa’ in the local market. It’s really great. The people had already started gathering with vegetables and some vendors with clothes. Within 2 hr it became a colourful market with a backdrop of snow-clad Kanchenjungha. Diwali was just another couple of days and everybody’s mood was beaming with joy. With sunshine on our shoulders we were really very happy……After a local Nepali lunch we packed up for our next destination – Uttare….
I contacted Abinash (Mr Abinash Subba, the owner of Hotel Sawdens, Uttare.) directly from Kolkata for our accommodation in Uttare. Uttare being an off beat destination (the starting point for the famous Kanchenjungha trek) and the peak Dussera season being over, he assured us of the rooms and that too with best price. (the price for a DBroom was Rs500, even though the Kolkata travel agents asked for Rs 750). I will ask you friends to contact Abinash directly to get a good deal. Initially I was thinking of booking a whole car from Kaluk to Uttare (for Rs 800). But Abinash called me up and suggested that he will book 2 front seats of a Tata Sumo (coming from Jorethang to Uttare via Kaluk) for us at Rs 100 each, and he indeed did it. The Sumo arrived in the kaluk bazaar with two vacant front seats at 12 noon, just matching nicely with our check-out time. On the way from Kaluk to Uttare we passed through Hee and Birmiok (the two small beautiful villages worth visit). It also has a lake named Chhayatal. Thereafter we crossed the rice terraces of Dentam Valley…. It’s lush green view… will definitely soothe your eyes and soul…..After that we crossed the Sinshore Bridge – Asia’s 2nd highest bridge connecting two hills. It’s so high that from the bridge the river Rangeet below appears like a white lace on a green carpet…. and a stone dropped takes around 10 seconds to reach the river bed. Just imagine !!!
Abinash and his happy family welcomed us to our next stay – Hotel Sawdens. We being the only guest in the hotel were allotted to the best room. The room was just superb, big, clean, full carpeted and very colourful with a window opening to the lush green hills. When we asked him about the price of the room he told us that we were his own guests and need not worry about the price, and he told us to pay only Rs300 per day!! We were spellbound !! (even though he showed us the bills that the Kolkata travel agents charged Rs 750 per day, just two weeks ago) we thought it will be around 450 -500. Now we couldn’t ask him about price anymore. (In fact we paid him Rs 1100 in total for our entire 2-night stay including those plenty delicious foods).
After a quick change we climb up the hill to Kaggyu Gompa just opposite of the hotel. It took us around 45 mins to reach the Gompa. It’s nice to see the sunset from the top, and Uttare appears really dreamy in the dusk. We planned that next morning we will trek to Chetan Mainbus waterfall (a 4km trek from Uttare through the jungle and Rangeet river bed) .By evening while we are having our coffee, Abinash had already arranged a local guide Naren for the next day trek for Rs 250. The hospitality of Abinash and his family was really unforgettable. We just became friends within 2 days. After a nice dinner we went to bed early to have a good rest for the next day trek.

Day 5. 16.10.09. After a heavy breakfast (with French toast, jam bread, coffee) in Sawdens we three headed for the Chetan Mainbus waterfall around 8:15 am. We took a break in the Trout breeding centre to have a look on the expensive trouts being breeded in the lap of nature. Next we pass the bamboo bridge on the Simphok Khola. The whole trek through the jungle with unknown orchids and no one around is really amazing. We even needed to cross the river Rangeet quite a no. of times!! Putting Rocks and boulders to make your own way through the flowing river was thrilling. We reached the waterfall around 11 am. It was situated inside a dense jungle which we hadn’t imagine even 5 mins before!!. We came back at 1:15 pm to have our lunch and then relaxed in the afternoon. On our way back we were surprised to see the same colourful ‘Haat’ again, this time shifted to Uttare. (Persons willing can trek further to Chewabhanjang pass on the same route passing mainbus waterfall to have a very close magnificent view of Kanchenjungha. Its 10 km from Uttare and will be wise to have a night stay there. We met some trekkers coming downhill from Chewa while on our way to the Mainbus falls). Once again we had a superb dinner with aloo-parantha and chicken, and they served us a lot.

Day 6. 17.10.09. Next morning after breakfast we left for Pelling at 7am with sweet memories of Uttare. Abinash again had already booked the front 2 seats of Savari (Uttare to Pelling service zeep) for us. Price was Rs 50 per head. We paid Rs 150 in total to the driver so that he halts at the two tourist spots: Sinshore bridge and the Chhangey falls.(otherwise we would had to book the whole zeep @Rs 1300). The full credit of making it amazingly cheap goes to Abinash.
We reached hotel Kabur in upper pelling after a 2.5hr journey including two halts. The journey was really good and the Chhangey falls on the way was really worth stopping. We booked hotel Kabur (@Rs660/night for a DB view room) from Kolkata by transferring half the money into Deepesh Pradhan’s (owner) SBI a/c. The location of the hotel was good (just on the entry point of upper Pelling) with a nice view of Kanchenjungha from the roof-top restaurant. Though we reached at 9:30 we could only check in at 12 noon (in spite of the other view room being empty !!). We smelled something fishy… moreover even though we stayed in a view room (the best in the hotel) the room conditions were pretty ordinary and not even properly cleaned. The room service was equally bad. We were just shocked to know that the geyser only operates from 6pm to 7am in the morning!! What a surprise!!! Since we arrived at 9:30am we had to take bath in the ice-cold water. What a memorable stay !!!!
After having lunch in the hotel Chinari we walked to the Pemiangtse monastery (3km from upper Pelling). The road leading to the monastery and Rhabdantse ruins was very quite and peaceful and a bit steep at the end. The colourful monastery was on the top of the hill. The paintings inside the monastery were really fabulous. Crossing the monastry on the same road was the Rhabdantse ruins. The ruins were also partly visible from the monastery. While coming back we got a zeep to upper pelling and the driver refused to take any money for the ride and told us that it’s a Diwali gift from him. In the evening Pelling had dressed in lights…. Fireworks and crackers were in full swing…. we started to feel the warmth of India……

Day 7. 18.10.09. Pelling sightseeing by various travel agents was conducted in two halves. The first half constitutes of Rimbi waterfalls, Rimbi rock garden, one hanging bridge, Khechiperi lake, Kanchenjungha waterfalls and then back to Pelling for lunch followed by the second half showing Pemiangtse monastery, Rhabdantse ruins, Chhangey falls and Sinshore bridge. Since we had already seen the 2nd half destinations we decided to make the 1st half destinations along with Yuksom, so that it became a whole day trip. For that we bargained and booked a whole car (Bolero) for two of us @Rs 1300.
As our return ticket by Darjeeling mail was on 19th Oct 8pm we thought we could easily trek the Sangah choeling monastery in the morning, have our lunch in Pelling and then return to NJP by car. But 19th being the Bhai-duj our travel agent friend reminded us that no small vehicle will be on road to Siliguri. He also advised us to book the bus ticket to Siliguri (for 19.10.09) well in advance to avoid any problem. We indeed book 2 return tickets (departure 7am) from the bus terminus at lower pelling while on our way to the day trip to Yuksom.
So we had no option but to trek Sangah choeling in the morning before leaving for Yuksom. We woke up early, had a quick bath (Thank god, the geyser was working in those wee hours !!), had a nice view of Kanchenjungha from the balcony and started walking to the Sangah- choeling monastery. The path (resembling the Great Wall of China) passing through the helipad to the monastery was just amazing. A bit steep in some places, but walking through the morning mist with Kanchenjungha playing hide and seek was really unforgettable. You could hear your own footsteps breaking the eerie silence….. It took around 45-50 mins to reach the top. The monastery was the oldest in Sikkim and the location on the top of the hill was really fabulous. Even you have a tea shop there. After a short stay and a cup of tea we walked down quickly, had our breakfast and then headed towards the full day trip to Yuksom.
We left upper Pelling around 9’o clock. First booked our bus ticket (for our next morning return to Siliguri) and then went to Rimbi falls. It was very scenic and even you can take a shower below. Then we reached Rimbi rock garden. The garden’s location was almost on the river bed and was really well maintained. It had a nominal entry fee. Passed through the hanging bridge we drove through the hills to Khechiperi – the holy lake. The ambience of this wishing lake was perfectly serene with coloured flags and bells everywhere adding up to the soothing beauty. Touching the wish-pond we left Khechiperi and started moving to our next destination – Kanchenjungha falls. It was just huge and the best of all the waterfalls that we had seen in our entire tour. Thereafter we reached Yuksom by afternoon and had our lunch in a roadside restaurant. Yuksom is a small nice picturesque village and the starting point of various trekking routes (for ex. Goechela trek, Djongri etc) We had even seen the yaks loaded with luggages returning from the treks. The places worth visiting in Yuksom were Norbugang Coronation throne, helipad ground and the Kartheke Lake. We didn’t trek up to Dubdi monastery on a hill top (2km) as it would take another one and half hrs and we already walked Sangah-choeling that same morning. Persons willing can make a night stay in Yuksom as few hotels are available. While on our way back to Pelling we visited Phamrong waterfalls – a nice one. We reached Pelling in the evening and relaxed.

Day 8. 19.10.09. It’s time to say good-bye. We woke up early to have a last glimpse of the Himalayan colour show. Again Kanchenjungha was at its best. The snapping continued….. We feel to stay some more… Our hearts were enlightened with joy and happiness. After a quick breakfast we were ready for the Siliguri bus. Its 7:15am and we were on our way back home….. Good- bye pelling …. Good-bye Sikkim…… We will surely come again…..


Accommodation details:
Kaluk : (scenic beauty is much better compared to Rinchenpong)
1. Kanchan valley tourist lodge
Mr. Soumitro Sarkar (owner), AC-16, Salt Lake, Kolkata-64
Mobile: 9836557890, 9339770489 (O),
Mr Subrata Sarkar (manager) 9733136939.
2. Ghonday village resort http://www.ghondayresort.com/
PHONE: 03592 - 231948
(M) +91-0-9933001121 (Mr DP Gurung), 9933001127, 9832037977
email: ghonday@hotmail.com
3. Rinchenpong village resort http://rinchenpongvillageresort.com/
email: rinchenpongvillageresort@yahoo .com
4. Mandarin village resort http://www.mvresort-kaluk.com/
Phone: + 91 (3595) 245210 (Resort) / (3592) 231930 (R)
Mobile: + 91 94341 79357, + 91 97330 92230, + 91 94745 26726
E-Mail: mv_resort@yahoo.co.in

Rinchenpong:
Hotel Rinchenpong Nest, Hotel Norlha
Mr Dibyendu Ghosh, Reeshum associates, , E1/8 Sudhakshina estate(B)
Raja S.C. Mallick Road, Kolkata -47
Mobile: 9830271064, 9830440463, 9433119536

Uttare:
1. Hotel Sawdens (the best of the lot). email: hotelsawdens@yahoo.com.
PHONE :+91-3595 -255415 , 255416.
MOBILE: +91-9733146690 (Mr Abinash Subba)
2. Hotel Green Valley, Uttare Tourist centre
Mrs Mohana Ghosh 9830440463, 9433119536

Pelling: A lot of hotels in upper, middle and lower pelling



For more information and details
Please follow the thread: Off beat destinations in Sikkim
Off beat destinations in Sikkim
for Uttare
http://www.telegraphindia.com/108060...ry_9346685.jsp
for Rinchenpong
http://www.telegraphindia.com/108010...ry_8747088.jsp
for Yuksom
http://www.rangan-datta.info/Yuksum.htm


For map: Off beat destinations in Sikkim

http://ghondayresort.com/howto_reach.htm
If you obey all the rules, you miss all the fun
#2 Jan 17th, 2010, 23:22
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  • capt_mahajan is offline
#2
Wow. Nice writeup. Very nice.

The pics are wonderful too. Just started.
#3 Jan 17th, 2010, 23:50
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  • ribhu95 is offline
#3
Nice detailed write up and nice photos.

rekindled our memories of our west sikkim trip

ribhu
#4 Jan 17th, 2010, 23:53
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  • hazra_amit is offline
#4

Thumbs up

Thanks
#5 Jan 18th, 2010, 03:33
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  • vonkla is online now
#5
Thanks for the nice and detailed log

It gives us some good ideas for out upcoming journey
#6 Jan 18th, 2010, 11:34
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  • hazra_amit is offline
#6

write to me

Hi Vonkla and all,

If you need any information regarding the places I visited, don't hesitate to write me
#7 Jan 18th, 2010, 11:39
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  • nayan is offline
#7
Enjoyed reading it a lot.
#8 Jan 24th, 2010, 19:56
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  • rohitjog is offline
#8
Delightful post Amit! Amazing pics as well!!

Quick question for you - based on your experience, if I get to Bagdogra at 3.00 pm is it possible to get to Pelling the same day?

I'm willing to hire a private jeep/vehicle if it saves time. Also this will be during end-March, so I'm wondering what time it gets dark and whether it's advisable to travel then?
#9 Jan 25th, 2010, 11:46
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  • hazra_amit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohitjog View Post Delightful post Amit! Amazing pics as well!!

Quick question for you - based on your experience, if I get to Bagdogra at 3.00 pm is it possible to get to Pelling the same day?

I'm willing to hire a private jeep/vehicle if it saves time. Also this will be during end-March, so I'm wondering what time it gets dark and whether it's advisable to travel then?
Thanks Rohit for your comments....

Now to answer your question I would say that yes its possible to reach pelling the same day.It will take another 4-5 hrs depending on the road conditions. You definitely have to hire a full vehicle to save your time (if you are lucky you can get some co-passengers as well on share basis) . Just after you land in Bagdogra, bargain quickly and set off for pelling.Don't waste any time there. It will get dark (around 6-6:30pm)before you reach Pelling. It normally gets dark early in the hills compared to the plainland , but you will definitely reach by 8pm (including the buffer times)if the roads are clear. If possible try to book morning flights to Bagdogra.

Wish you a very happy trip ahead and safe journey.
#10 Jan 25th, 2010, 20:48
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  • ujjwal_29 is offline
#10
Hello Amit,
Nice explain the west Sikkim and good snaps.
Which digi cam you use? I think it has very good optical zoom.
Which camera it is?

Thanks,
Ujjwal das
#11 Jan 25th, 2010, 21:01
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  • santos_g15 is offline
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Hey my two cents,for jeeps for jorethang there is a separate taaxi stand which is far off from one near SNT.i forgot the road name but you will get jeeps from there frequently i guess and cost for ticket is Rs.120.
#12 Jan 26th, 2010, 15:52
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  • Amit V is offline
#12
It is possible to reach pelling same day...we also rchd bagdogra @ 3 pm and immediately started for pelling..we hired entire vehicle n it took us 6 hrs to reach pelling..roads are pretty bad so it takes time even though distance is less...n also it becomes complete dark after 5 pm..so i suggest you fix up vehicle before rching bagdogra..i mean u can ask your hotel for airport pickup.
#13 Jan 26th, 2010, 16:26
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  • sagarneel is offline
#13
Nice post! Wonderful pics and TFS the detailed and well written trip log! It will surely prove to be very helpful for travellers bound to Sikkim!
I miss my favorite state everyday in Delhi , but I have Uttarakhand to compensate . Your write-up reminded me of the wonderful time (countless times in fact) I spent during my travel to the beautiful sate!
Regards,
Sagarneel.
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid Albert Einstein


Trip reports:

Syalsaur/ Deoria taal/ Chopta trip report, West and South Sikkim trip report , Puri/ Konark trip report
#14 Jan 27th, 2010, 10:48
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  • rohitjog is offline
#14

Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Amit V View Post It is possible to reach pelling same day...we also rchd bagdogra @ 3 pm and immediately started for pelling..we hired entire vehicle n it took us 6 hrs to reach pelling..roads are pretty bad so it takes time even though distance is less...n also it becomes complete dark after 5 pm..so i suggest you fix up vehicle before rching bagdogra..i mean u can ask your hotel for airport pickup.
Thanks Amit - this definitely helps! I will plan accordingly.
#15 Jan 27th, 2010, 10:51
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  • rohitjog is offline
#15

Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by hazra_amit View Post Thanks Rohit for your comments....

Now to answer your question I would say that yes its possible to reach pelling the same day.It will take another 4-5 hrs depending on the road conditions. You definitely have to hire a full vehicle to save your time (if you are lucky you can get some co-passengers as well on share basis) . Just after you land in Bagdogra, bargain quickly and set off for pelling.Don't waste any time there. It will get dark (around 6-6:30pm)before you reach Pelling. It normally gets dark early in the hills compared to the plainland , but you will definitely reach by 8pm (including the buffer times)if the roads are clear. If possible try to book morning flights to Bagdogra.

Wish you a very happy trip ahead and safe journey.
Thanks Amit - I'm travelling from Hyderabad, so it looks like a stretch to be able to get to Bagdogra any sooner. But your information definitely helps - thanks a ton!
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