9 Days Sikkim Trip - heart feeling and heart breaking at a time

06th March - Experience of Lifetime

With all the bad reviewes I wrote in my last post, the hotel at lachung was punctual. They served the bed tea as they were said last night at 6 am. We were mentally prepared that we can not reach even Yumthang, so there was no hurry. After getting ready, we went to kitchen for breakfast and served with sliced bread and melted butter in a small bawl. The bread was sufficient, but the butter was not. We adjusted to put that butter in only two slices and shared amongst us as the person standing there at once denied to provide some more butter in form of "Ration nehi aa raha hay, butter khatam ho gaya" (Ration is not coming from the town, butter is finished). They didn't supplied even a boiled/poached/fried egg! May be that's also finished! The very little joy in our mind was that, we heard there was huge snow on the way to Yumthang which lead me not to argue with them for the insufficient food. Rather we started preparing for that enjoyment to be unfold telling ourselves that we have many dry foods with us which we should not carry at the time of return to minimize some burden!

They charged Rs 50 for a pair of boot and Rs 50 for a snow jacket. But both of us had our jackets, both of which was water/snow proof and compatible in negative temperature. Our co-passengers (the honeymoon couple whom we met in Lachen) took both. Anyways, finally we started at 9 am together in two different cars. The other driver was such a jolly person, I had never seen in my entire life and quite helpful too. After a few minutes, when Tej was about to take a fork towards right to report to Lachung checkpost, he denied, and this time we saw, Tej was also following him! After only approx 8 kms, the car stopped as the road was completely closed due to snow slide and army and BRO was clearing the roads for the tourists. They said, it will be another one week for the road to be through Yumthang, because the same thing happened just a few kms before Yumthang again. We spent a good time there and what I said about the other driver can be proved here. He was always with us holding all of our cameras and clicked as he liked. When I saw the pictures, I found he took some good moments as well. Why should he do it for us? We did not hired him, neither offered any amount for carrying our things!! Tej went to have a chat with his fellow friends at once we reached that place. I never seen such a huge snow in my entire life and my wife as well. For the time being we forgot what we didn't get and started enjoying and playing holi with snow like children. But the area was over crowded and after spending a good time, we get back to hotel at 11:30 am.

On the way to Yumthang






The snow cutter


The cutter on its way


Road condition after crossing the snow covered area


Another month to go to bloom


The reason why they did not bloomed yet!


Taking lunch with egg curry, dal, sabji (we decided not to take eggs in next 1 month after that!) we finally started for Gangtok at around 12:45 pm. The day was cloudy and it was creating spectacular mist over the mountains. The journey was almost eventless upto Mangan. I am not describing the road condition again as it was already described in my previous posts but a continuous light shower made it worst. First we stopped at Mangan to have some tea/snacks and started again finally. May be my intuition was telling something different to be happen and that's why I didn't stopped the car till Mangan. The visibility was becoming poorer to poorer every second passed away and after crossing Kabi, it was worst. It was also one of the lifetime experiences we had. In every moment I was thinking Tej will stop the car and say "Driving in such a condition is not possible". There was reason. Thik clouds were approaching like a blanket in front of us. The only thing visible was the tail light of the car running in front of us. But before a few kms from Gangtok, somehow we were all alone and there was no tail lights to follow. I was seated beside the driver seat and believe me guys, in every end, Tej bend the car just opposite direction what I was thinking of he should!!! When Tej put on the headlights, it was reflecting on the clouds and not touching the surface of the road which made the driving rather harder. I understood that Tej was concentrating hard by an incident. I took my pen drive with lots of songs including bengali songs to play inside the car and before this, Tej always forwarding the bengali songs without asking us (he is a smart chap). But at that time, he didn't even bother to do so and after noticing a few occasions, I stopped the song. Again he played the songs when the lights of Gangtok were seen and we reached Gangtok at around 6 pm.

Tej in funny mood!


We covered around 10 km in this condition. Till then there was other cars to follow!


Trail to follow


When we reached Gangtok, Mr. Birendra Sharma was not present. He went to Nepal in his hometown and till then he arrived. I had many things to complain him and had to bargain with him for the rates as well. What he offered us for a 3N 4D trip and we reached Gangtok in 2N 3D. Also he quoted for a 2N in eastern part, but we were in a plan to extend that one night in eastern part which we didn't in north side. Till then we heard another heart breaking news that road near Mondakini falls was broken and no cars were through Changu which made us plan to reach Dzuluk via Rongli and visit upto Changu from there on next day. I already told this to Tej and he was also very excited as Lingtham is his residence and his girlfriend lives there... Anyways, Mr. Sharma was tired and tell us that he'll come to the office after an hour, and not wasting the time we went for a stroll to MG Marg again. The rain was stopped till then. Another important plan was to change the taste and cancel one of the return tickets from any cybar cafe and took printout of the other. We straightaway, after completing the work in cafe, went to Apna Dhaba and ordered Mutton in form of Biriany and Do Peyaja and Chicken Kebabs with a peg of scotch for me. The taste was very good but the restaurant was bit expensive. We reached back to the hotel at 9 and found Mr. Sharma went back home again. He should call us before doing so as I told him earlier that I have some important work (changing taste is of course an important work... ) to be done. Anyways, as much I talked to Mr Sharma over cell in this matter was not sounding very good and I was thinking of some plan B, C etc. I determined to take Tej with us as the joy he showed thinking he can meet with his GF, even for a few minutes, touched me. I called Mr. Gopal Pradha (Dzuluk) and Mr. Dilip Tamang (Sillary Gaon) and inquired for the rates and availability and confirmed them for one double room. We went to bed around 10 setting the final meeting with Mr. Sharma on next day at 8 am.

wonderful pics & nice write up buddy

Reading your write-up over my breakfast in Ireland and thoroughly enjoying it. Avidly looking forward to next installment. I feel very guilty about not having done something similar as a thank-you to all the help I have had from IM over the years planning my trips.

Thanks PKanti da once again man...


Thanks PaulAurora for writing in my log and appreciating my effort. Yes, this forum is awesome mainly the Sikkim territory. I am greatful that I have a chance to thank all of them who helped me in my planning phase, in form of this log. Please write your story and travel stories are always enjoyable....

07th March - Light of Hope started sparkling

First time in this trip, opening the eyes in the early morning, there was sunlight kissing the balcony of our room of Hotel Khorlo. Again the same story, rushed there and found she is not visible yet. Ok, I'll see how long she can make herself hide from our eyes. Getting ready in a few moments, I cam downstairs to meet Mr. Sharma. The day was bright and sunny and that fulfill my heart with joy. He was already present in his office and that was the first day I was personally meeting him. After the routine greetings, I at once came to the point. He charged Rs. 6000 extra for the plan I specified earlier and as per him, providing a xylo instead of a sumo/maxx was the reason for that. Though I never asked for a superior car, still I did not mentioned that and after a hard bargaining and complaining it was fixed with a Rs 3000 extra with that xylo. Till then Tej was also present there and we decided to take our breakfast on the way and we had plenty of dry foods with us. I was happy with the deal and spending no more time, we started for Dzuluk at 9:45 am. I had to pay the total amount there to Mr. Sharma and I had a lack of Rs. 4000. The ATM next to Hotel Khorlo (I forgot the name of the bank) was out of order and we decided that, I will pay the rest of the amount to Tej. It's quite natural deal, still I am mentioning it here as this has an role in the upcoming story. That will be revealed in proper place. Another short incident I like to mention here. After starting, we did not found any joy on Tej's face and when asked him, he replied, his GF came to Gangtok last night for a few days stay. The poor little chap...

Without drawing the money and photo stop, we reached Rongpo and took our breakfast in a restaurant. But surprisingly Tej paid the bill. When I asked him, he told Mr. Sharma told him to do so. Normally the first day breakfast is not included in the package. I understood, due to the complains I made to him regarding the inconvenience in northern side, he's compensating. Nothing serious, still I like to mention that as I mentioned the worst things regarding this travel agency. But after getting outside the restaurant, we learnt a good lesson. There was 3 ATMs in Rongpo, the HDFC was closed, the SBI was out of order and the AXIS had no money to draw. On the upcoming road, there was heard to find out any workable ATM and we decided to go back and came back upto Mazhitar (around 10 Kms from Rongpo) and drew the required amount. Finally started for Rongli, againg coming back to Rongpo, on 12:15 pm. The moral of the story - never believe the ATMs in hills. Draw whatever required at the first workable ATM you got on the way... .

I was quite tensed as the SDO office in Rongli must has it's working hours (They are Govt. employees after all ), but Tej confirmed that we will be way ahead of time and we reached there on 1:45 pm. The road was not so good and we got some relief getting down from the car. At least even Govt employees work at 1:45 pm. They are not so bad... :P Tej started his job and me too. The office itself is very picturesque and I was also thinking it might be a good hotel to stay as per the location of the place. A left fork of a few meters from Rongli Baazar will bring you to that office and thus the place was quite good to feel the valley spread in back side of the office. While I was taking snaps randomly, I noticed Tej was running outside in a few minutes interval. Asking him we found he's going to make photo copies of papers required to get permit. I still don't know why he did not do it at a time knowing what exactly required!!! Anyways, I never mind such a stop and clicking here and there with pleasure. Also in the morning, Mr. Sharma told a story about Tej and I was matching it with the incident happening in front of us. Once Tej got down from the car and within 10 meters, lost the key of the car and it was quite natural as per his reputation... . Anyways, after 4th visit to the xerox shop, he was done and our permit upto Changu was on his hand. Please keep in mind, though Nathula was closed on that time, but permits for Nathula are issued only from Gangtok and only on the journey date. I don't know whether the rule has changed or it was like this forever. Tej shouted with joy "We are through". May be it was due to the punishment my wife set for him if there was any problem in this route like north Sikkim. She decided to make Tej seat on the car tied up, and she'll push the car from top. I never know, taking egg on a regular basis and perhaps the breakfast in Rongpo was such a power builder... :P.

Flowers on the way to Rongli from Rongpo


Few random clicks when Tej was busy to make the permit








Himalayan sparrow: heard they are little darker, but can't found any difference



Anyways, keeping the reputation of Tej in mind, I took the permit with me and started forward from there at 2:30 pm. Tej was insisting to visit his home for a cup of tea and we agreed with him. Stopped at Rongli Baazar again, managed to get some sweets for his home. Though he was denied to do so, but we straightaway declared - "Without sweets, we do not visit any home, at least for the first time". He showed us a good sweet shop, though that was unable to make a good impression. Still we took some sweets and coming back to the car we found, the car was occupied by some ladies. Tej explained, they are locals of Dzuluk and his known person. He had offered them a lift already. We got two seats were left alone for us and we did not made any argument and within 20 minutes, reached Lingthum (Tej's home). The other persons were seated in the car while we went with Tej to visit his home. There was none in the home then (Only his father who is seriously ill and taking bed rest) and Tej started to prepare tea for us himself. His mother was running a grossary shop beside the main road and after a few minutes she came to meet us and real era started. She only knows Nepali, and we do not know that. Still after a few minutes of chit-chat (!), we started from there at 3:15 pm. Till then we gathered some information like the two elder brothers of Tej are in Sikkim police, but Tej is only 7 pass. When asked him about that, he was very proud to declare the fact once again...

Kid playing in front of Tej's home (see the attitude)



Leaving his home, within a few minutes, the permits were checked at Lingthum checkpost and we found Tej forgot to photocopy the original permission. But that was his area and he managed to make up this mistake and declared he will manage in this way for the next all check posts!! Now me too decided that We'll kill him if he make any mistake again...

At 4, we reached Padamchen which is the starting of the famous Old Silk Route. Our permit once again was checked here and we started feeling colder and colder gradually from there. after a few minutes clouds were also approaching on the road and again there was uncertainty whether we will be able to watch the sunrise next morning or not.

Unknown waterfall on the way to Dzuluk


Clouds approaching on the way to Dzuluk


Finally reached the Dil Maya Retreat by a few meters of hand made terrific road down from the main road, on 4:30 pm. Though Gopal ji or Suroj was not present there, but the worker "Pushpa" was staying there and took our luggage and put into the room which was again a few steps down from where the car was standing. The cold was chilling and perhaps it was coldest amongst the places we visited in this tour. The hotel is very simple but in the perspective of the the place, it was superb. No guaranty of electricity, but geyser was fitted in the toilets. We also hired a room heater for 100 bucks per night. Within a few minutes, lunch was served and the taste was awesome (even best in this tour till then). We were the only tourists on that night there and after spending some time in dinning room, we came back to the room due to the cold. Till then the visibility were zero. With the warmth of the heater, and being so tired by the journey throughout the day, we felt asleep within a few minutes. But the magic was remaining. When around 8:30, they called me for the dinner, we came outside the room and found the valley was bathing with the moon light and a chilling wind was blowing which was touching the bones. Still first time in the tour we were so much happy as the sky was full of stars and the beauty of the valley I can't describe and we were hoping this to continue till the next day. Tej was also there in the dunning room and we decided to start at 4:45 next morning and he went to stay in his friend's house nearby. We also went to bed early and felt asleep again in a few minutes...

Evening snaps in front of Dil Maya Retreat, Dzuluk

superb !!! keep it up

Thank you once again buddy. your continuous support somehow make me feel like that the report is actually worth it. but im also asking for some constructive criticism (on both the write up and photographs) too, so that i can improve my report next time. after all, me too, belongs to a "payer tolay shorshe" family...

Well...then....only the great & our respected Duranto'di help you out

@ debjyotidasgupta

Quote:

Thanks to all IMikers for the information regarding this trip.
@debjyotidasgupta - I read your recent trip report of Sikkim. From there, I got some valuable information regarding this trip. Your trip report as well as photographs are really good. I am not that good in writing any trip report. OK, I will try to post my trip report.

Its in favor of me who found nothing to criticize you, but found above ........ you are a by born gem, no need to cut & polish

Sorry for the long hibernation. The hectic office work wasn't allowing me to take out some time for IM or even to plan my trips.

Went through your TL and the pics , and let me tell you , these are excellent- a perfect capture of heaven.

@PKanti,

PK-Da its great to notice the number of total post in yours and Naveena's profile(Ohh yes even Saugata). That clearly shows how lucky IM is to get a contributor like you all. "You are faster than a speeding bullet"- Superman would say!!!!

Last year kshil , Sagarneel , Delhiwala and few others were that fast, but few of these master travellers(Specially kshil) has probably went on a hibernation handing over the baton to people like You ,Naveena and Many others.... Thanks for the way you are helping the IMers- please keep it on.

Thanks for this thread , reminding me of my trip , glued to it !

@ mithun123

Well! I broke my right hand wrist in February & got plaster for 7 weeks........so decided lets annoyed (Utpaat) IMs as much I can with my left hand

Hi debjyotidasgupta,

I was through your trip report from the very beginning but missed Lachung and Dzuluk part.....

But now I'm with you to go upto the 'last page of crime thriller' ...

You are indeed a good narrator..... Pkanti, mithun, Aditi, ajaytk ...as all good IMers said of you. Nice are the photos !!! the car with burning back-lights.. very nice.

Carry on ...waiting for gurudongmar part.

PKanti da, please come to FB buddy. Then only you come to know that "Mango Hope" is building up over Indian Railways. Because..... "Mukul" is already there...

Again a very good combination of words. Im blushing...


hmm... something fishy. that sounds you are planning your next trip. if im not wrong, you were in Karnataka trip last year. anyways, started counting days for another wonderful report and photographs from now...

btw, thanks for the good words man...


I absolutely agreed with Mithun. Keeping in mind all the other's contribution and support to make my trip as well as the report successful, the continuous support I got from PKanti da on my planning phase (I know how I irritated everybody with newer and newer questions everyday) and still getting when Im writing my first ever log in public, it's incomparable. hats off PKanti da. kudos: Though you already told it's a "Baye Haat Ka Khel"...

I am new in this forum, but I knew KShil before joining this forum. The help I got from him during my planning phase of last year October Ladakh trip, I can't explain. 100% rightly said Mithun, he is truly a Master Traveler (nothing to say about his photographs too). I was honored that I got a chance to make the trip together but somehow it could not be arranged. Though we were there is same time, but on a different direction. He is the person who incested me repeatedly to write the report of Leh trip but unfortunately that didn't happened and he is the first person who ensured a promise from me to write this report. Don't mind Sagarneel da, I know how much helpful you are and how much you are enjoying this report. But Im desperately missing Kaushik da in this log...


Thanks for the appreciation mate...


Ha ha ha ha... as we all know, it's always better late than never...

Thanks for the good words buddy. The burning lights was the reflection of the back light of that car in our wet windscreen...


Somehow you missed the part. It was the worst day of the trip 05th March...