Touts and hustles in Rajasthan compared to South India

qrty

Hi,

I will be flying to Delhi next week and will spend three weeks in Delhi and Agra (shortly)and Rajasthan before flying to Kerala. This is my second trip to India. Last year I was in South India and after the first few days of getting used to it I had a wonderful time. I am however worried about all the stories and warnings of touts and hustle, this seems to be a dominating part of travelling in Delhi/Agra and Rajhastan. What is it like compared with South India? There I had little problems, I found people altogether friendly and not very pushy. Most of the time a few friendly words or a joke solved the matter, it got never really unpleasant. Nobody ever tried to cheat me seriously or bring me to a different hotel against my will. Is this really so different in Rajhastan? It sounds as if one literally gets jumped at, starting right at the airport. I will travel partly with a male friend and partly solo and I've become a little scared about being hustled and followed all the time, especially when alone(I am female). How bad is it really? Thanks for your help.

Britt

mitchell_k

Hi, I spent quite a long time in Rajasthan in 2006 and 2007. I have also been in the South, to Tamil Nadu. It really does feel like a different world in Rajasthan, particularly at the more famous places. The worst in my opinion was Jaisalmer, by far. I traveled by motorcycle and a tout still tried to screw me, pretending that he was someone else. I asked a policeman for directions, he overheard me and said that he was the owner of the hotel where I was heading. He seemed suspicious when he told me that the hotel I was after was full and that he would take me to his other hotel, but how do you tell someone you don’t believe that he is who he says he is, I decided to see where he takes me, knowing something he didn’t. When we arrived at a totally random place I asked him to still show me the other place, so I could stay there when it would free up, he said he would take me there later, I asked if I could speak to his wife (who I knew was in Mumbai at the time) he said that she would see me in an hour and gave himself away, that is when I told him to beat it. Anyway, that is just an example of what one can expect, a very extreme example, but a real one at that. People to literally jump at you and try to take you to their hotel or whatever. This usually happens at the long-distance bus stops or train stations. In some places it is almost unavoidable to get ripped off at least a little bit, unless you will travel with your own transport. I would not say that people are particularly nasty in these places, they are simply far more annoying that anyone you’d like to meet. Anyhow, Jaisalmer to me was the most disappointing place of all the places I visited, yes the fort does look magical from the outside, but the romantic image is gone when you enter and see loads of shops and restaurants inside, many competing with each other for your attention. Jaipur would probably be next on the list. I feel that it is visually the least pleasant of all the places you mention too and most polluted. Jaipur is big though, so apart from a few tourist hot-spots and the train/bus station you will not experience any major hassles. I have not been to Pushkar, not Mt Abu, but to say the truth the other places are not as overwhelming. Jodhpur is a magical place, it is a relatively big city and the old part of it is pretty large. Once you go over the other side of the fort (away from the tourist hot-spots) you will feel like you’re in a different city. You may not be bothered by anyone for the whole day, you’ll come across regular people going about their daily lives. On the more touristy side of the city there are some annoying characters, but nothing too dramatic. Udaipur can be really quite relaxing if you come at the end of the tourist season, last time I was there (end of April) there was hardly a tout in sight, it was pretty unbearably hot though. A place you do not mention is Bundi. This is still one of the jewels of Rajasthan, the people are genuinely friendly and there is so much to see around this wonderful town. On the way to Udaipur I stopped at Chittor and I although I stayed for only an hour, riding through the streets I got a very positive vibe from the place. No flashy signs for hotels, not one tout trying to show me the way. I will come back some day.
About safety. To a male Rajasthan is a pretty safe place. To a female, I cannot say with conviction, but it certainly isn’t as safe as it is for a man. Even in Bundi the solo female travelers I came across spoke of being harassed by the men. It seems it is almost unavoidable, but if you learn to deal with it in a way that doesn’t get you down you will still have a great time. In Bundi there is a great young woman who was starting a travel company which would cater to women. Sounded like a great idea. If interested I can try to dig up the information. That’s all.
I will advertise Bundi here, as I have in past posts (you can search for Bundi in the forums) http://www.mitchellkphotos.com/rajasthan.html

qrty

Hi, Mitchell,

thanks for sharing your experience. Apart from the first day in Delhi I will be on my own only the last couple of days, and by then hopefully experienced enought to enjoy myself despite all harrassment. Still, its awful to always assume that other people are lying or trying to cheat you. In South India everyone was helpful and honest, including rikshaw drivers, and a couple of times it happended that little shops or restaurants couldn't give cange and simpy told us to come back the next day to pay.
As I will fly to Kerala from Udaipur I was thinking of travelling from Jaipur and Puschkar on to either Jodphur or Bundi (I don't really like the long bus and train rides and therefore prefer travelling shorter distances at a time and staying a couple of days inbetween). You are making this decision not easier as you seem to favour both. I'll have a look at your Bundi information. I didn't plan to go to Jaisalmer anyway.
Thanks a lot!

qrty

Aishah

Mitchell, I'm sorry to read about your terrible time in Jaisalmer - this is the 2nd incident I have read in the last month where some scam has gone on. I have previously posted how bus stand and railway station is appalling with touts. But one can deal with these things with assertiveness. Before your arrival be very clear where you are going to - and insist on going there. Don't get into any hotel's jeep where they tell you they will drop you. Walk past all the touts to outside and take an autorickshaw yourself. Don't engage in any conversation with anyone. Go straight to your hotel and settle in. This happens not only in Jaisalmer. I get hassled in Jodhpur, Jaipur and Delhi - but I keep on walking, am quite rude to persistent people and brook no argument with them. If you dither around, you are lost. If you become upset, even the better for them.
I agree with you Mitchell re the Fort - it is totally overrun with businesses by every man and his dog, but it still retains a charm of its own and is worth a visit.
Jaipur is notorious for charming well-dressed men befriending you and proposing exporting gems - all a big scam and here on IM.
Just keep your wits about you is what I suggest. Pushkar, the pandits will want your money for lake puja stuff - up to you what you want to do.It will start with a welcome greeting and a flower handed to you. Ignore them if you don't want to give a 'donation'. Other than that just the usual 'hello' from shopkeepers. Bundi is probably the least tout ridden town of all.
Jodhpur the young men are starting to become a nuisance in central market areas - be rude, ignore them. Jodhpur railway station is teeming with auto rickshaw drivers wanting to take you to your hotel for 50% commission on your first night's room rate. You could walk to Govind Hotel across the road and down a bit, or choose one of the places backside e.g. Durag Niwas etc. look in LP, and cross the overhead bridge to the rickshaw people at the back opposite the main entrance. Nowhere as much hassle there.

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