Rajasthan - general tips from a first time visitor

Just back from our first ever visit (and up early with jetlag)...found this site v helpful before I was leaving...so thought I'd just add some notes/ tips from our visit in case there are any other newbies looking for general advice.

I'll have some photos in the next few days...I found getting pics of hotels in advance pretty difficult, if anyone would like pics of any of the places we stayed, just give me a shout.

Anyway - my tips (for what they're worth).

1. Remember your visa

Somehow, in all the reading and planning, we didn't realise we needed a visa. So had an utterly miserable 24 hrs, of getting a visa and then going back to the airport at 6am the next day, waiting to see if we made it on standby (fortunately, we did).

Yes, I know...stupid, we should have checked, etc etc...but a surprisingly easy mistake to make

2. If you're going for only 2 - 3 weeks, organise well in advance

We booked our flights months in advance (we were going over Xmas, so it was necessary). But we left hotels late...it meant we missed out on some places we'd really have liked to stay at. It also meant we ultimately had to trust everything to a travel agent...they did a good job, but it could have been much cheaper if I'd done it a bit earlier.

3. Go to Jaisalmer, and spend a decent amount of time there

Particularly if you're only there for a short time, it can seem like a real hassle making it all the way out there. But go. It's more than worth it. Spend a few nights there (we spent three). Do the whole camel safari thing as well...even if it's just quick one..the dunes are stunning at sunset.


4. If you can possibly afford it, stay at Udaivillas

OK, we were going to splash out at the Shiv Niwas. It was full. We ended up staying here. Oh my god, the most luxurious, fantastic hotel I have ever stayed in. It only opened in August, and it is quite incredible. I'm too embarrassed to say how much it cost...but it was worth it (the prices are those of a standard expensive international hotel). It's also a great base to see Udaipur from - on the other side of the lake to the City Palace..so you have the most brilliant view day and night.

5. Jodphur: have brunch at the Pillars restaurant at the Umaid Bhawan hotel

You have to see the hotel...so you might as well eat there, while you're at it. This is the best (and cheapest) place to eat , as you get the view of the quite spectacular gardens.

The fort in Jodphur is also great...probably the best of all..just as great is the view down onto the city. If you're keen on photography, check what time the light is best to capture the fort at its best...we got it in shade.


6. Agra/ Jaipur: do what you've got to do, and get out

Glad we didn't plan to spend too much time in either of those. Taj obviously stunning (even when we saw it in fog!). Maybe I was missing something in Jaipur...but too busy, too many westerners, too much hassle, too obvious.


7. Ranthambore: bring your scrabble

One of the main reasons to go to Rajasthan, was to see Tigers, so we booked a long stay in Ranthambore. Problem is, there's not much to do round there (Sawai Madhopur is less than lovely) so if you're in for a long stay, make sure you've got plenty to keep yourself amused. We stayed at the Tiger's Den..the room was a little too basic, but the staff were brilliant. We didn't see a tiger...but, such is life.

8. Visit the Jain temples at Ranakpor/ Aravali

More worthy of a visit than most of the forts...well worth a stop over between Jodphur and Udaipur.

For the record, our itinerary was

Arrive Delhi - immediate connecting flight to Jodphur, then drive to Jaisalmer (originally meant to be spending a day in Delhi, but lost this with visa, fiasco)
- 3 nights Jaisalmer
Train to Jodphur
- 1 night Jodphur
Drive to Udaipur
- 3 nights Udaipur
Fly - Udaipur to Jaipur, morning in Jaipur, then drive to Ranthambore
- 4 nights Ranthambore
Drive to Agra
- 1 night Agra
Drive to Delhi
- 2 nights Delhi
Fly home

The travel agent we used was Travelpack . It wasn't cheap, but they were the only agent we spoke to who gave us the itinerary we wanted...and made plenty of last minute/ on the hoof changes.

We deliberately wanted to make sure we had some decent stays...but if we could have changed anything, we'd probably have spent less time in Ranthambore and another night or two in Jodphur or Udaipur.

Is Jaisalmer really really REALLY worth going? I only have about 2 weeks time in India(another 1 week in Nepal) and I'm thinking of skipping Jaisalmer but go to Bikaner for the camel safari instead, any suggestion?

Unquestionably, Jaisalmer is a most fascinating place and highly recommended. The downside is whether you have sufficient time. If you are planning to spend at least ten days in Rajasthan, it is possible to see - though in a rather touristy way -

Jaipur - 2 nights
Pushkar - 1 night
Deogarh - 1 night
Udaipur - 2 nights
Ranakpur - on the way
Jodhpur - 1 night
Jaislamer - 2 or 3 nights

This is a common itinerary for travellers in a hurry. But the feedback we receive has been excellent!

What fantastic information! Thanks heaps for that...I will use it all!

I think you could spend more thana day in Pushkar
The walk to the top of the hill to watch the sunset is special
the chanting and music emanating from the temples is hypnotic and the general feeling of the place will make you never want to leave
However 2-3 dys might be appropriate if time is limited
If you are in Jaipur, make sure you go to the Amber Fort...well worth a day's exploration

Udiapur...3 days at least

Hope this helps a little
Bryan

Sounds like I can borrow part of the itinery listed below - we travel out to Delhi during December and then back from there three weeks later. We planned to stay in Delhi for a couple of nights when we got there - over to Agra for the day etc, and then on from there down to Ranthmabore and then Jaipur etc.
We have not booked any accommodation/trains etc yet and were planninmg to do this ourselves and not with a travel agent/company etc - or would it be best to avoid this hassle etc ?
Any other hints onm accommodation etc ?

We would need to know your budget.

The Rajasthan section of our Hotel listings is a good place to start looking.

Budget - not bargain basement - want to enjoy ourselves with some (relative) comfort - prob best to stay in mid range hotels.

Thanks for the link to hotel listings etc

Travel by train - is this a major hassle, getting bookings etc some of the postings suggest this but is it being overstated ?

Excellent post Sayswho...Thanks and now we are waiting for more (pics and experiences).
Beautysan: Jaiselmer is worth a visit and you can do camel safari in jaiselmer too.
Bryan: agree with you on Pushkar/ajmer. its worth more that one day. Infact one can do all the touristy thingee in Jaipur within one day and even if you leave in the evening for Pushkar, one can reach there and have a nice quite dinner. Sometimes I prefer going stright to Pushkar from Delhi instead of Jaipur.
Same goes for Udaipur and many skip the rankapur temples on their way to Jodhpur..I think its must visit and doesn't take much time too (start bit early from udaipur).
Rajasthan is one state where its easier to travel by Bus too...RTDC (Rajasthan Tourism Development corporation) runs bus services to major destinations in the state and they are comfortable. However its best to hire a car and driver..and go for budget hotels (not Cheap) to balance the cost of car to some extent.

seems amazing to me how kany people fly past Kumbalgarh between Ranakpur and Udaipur . . . (Last hint I'll give about the place)

kany=many

How about Bundi? it crossed my mind to skip jaisalmer in favour of a decent amount of time in Bundi, Udaipur and Jodhpur, since i dont think id love the camel trekking..?

Also has anyone been to Bharatpur and the national park there?

Thankyou very much! (only 2 weeks to go!!)

Would you please provide an introduction to Kumbalgarh, or if you have already done so, a link to it?

Kumbalgargh Fort is what Bijapuri is revering to. It's a few miles north of Udaipur (around 80kms). There are a few hotels there also.
I believe from Udaipur you can take a bus up to there. How did you do the trip Bijapuri?

Myself, I took a Scooty (like a moped) from Udaipur and did the trip, damn nearly killed myself coming back in the dark. Plus having to find petrol was difficult.

Maybe someone here has some pictures of it, if so please add them, it's a very large place that is usually complety empty, sans a tour group every now and then. I spent my day wandering around the whole place and most times it was just me and the cows. I am not a big fort person but it definately ranked high on my list.

Some of the temples which dot the area are mostly untouched and except for the bats you would think that no one has ever entered them.

Definitely worth a side trip if you have the time.


Mike

Shhhhhh! That's one of the best things about the place, you are almost always alone. So running across five or six large cows walking on the ramparts was quite unnerving for a number of reasons. We are posting some pics when this message iis finished. n the photo gallery. You don't get a sense of how large it is though. When you are on top the ramparts stretch as far as the eye can see. There is a very upscale hotel nearby and not much else. Aouhd (sp?)