Jaisalmer or Udapiur

sam78a

I probably wont be able to see both of these cities, and both will probably involve at least two overnights (maybe three) each since I am intersted in not only the city itself but also the surrounding area.

I know I am kind of thinking of apples and oranges here since they are different cities, but which one should I see? Right now, I am leaning towards Udaipur. Is this the correct decision? I know both cities are different and lots hinges on the individual, so it is probably tough to answer, but I would love opinions on this matter.

Udaipur is supposed to (obviously) be a quiet, peaceful, romantic (I will be with someone special on the trip!) but Jaisalmer is unique, but then again, isnt the fort like any other fort? With that said, the camel safari sounds cool, even just for 1 night....can you help me out please???

anouk

well that is a difficult decision! If you prefer a hilly, green city go to Udaipur, if you prefer desert then go to Jaisalmer.
By the way, in Udaipur you can go for a horse safari which is also quite nice.

machadinha

Not really. Romantic, yes, certainly; quiet and peaceful, much less so I'd say. It's quite (if not to say: very) touristy, and otherwise has all the traffic and chaos and stuff that any Indian town has, certainly as soon as you leave the fairly small touristic center. I suppose the surrounding countryside might be nice (horse ride as suggested, indeed, sounds good), I've not explored outside of the city. There's supposed to be some good nearby destinations.

Then again so is Jaisalmer very touristy. They're both nice in their own right though (and note I haven't been since the later nineties, they could have been turned upside down by now for all I know). Can't really help you with your question; apples and oranges indeed, I'm afraid. I think if you've never been to either I might opt for Jaisalmer; it is really quite special. And no, no Rajasthani forts are alike; and the one in Jaisalmer has the pretty unique quality of still actually being lived in, so still in active use. (You know the way forts used to have houses and shops and whatnot in them -- well, that's still going on in Jaisalmer.) (It is also said to be quickly deteriorating because of the tourist influx which it wasn't built to handle though, and perhaps because of lacking upkeep, and sadly enough. Maybe this is in fact being addressed now by the authorities, I wouldn't know about latest developments here, but it's been an issue for the past few decades, ever since it found itself on the tourist map indeed. I think even just water management and consequent erosion of the grounds it's built on has turned into an issue here.)

(The question does however imply you'll be seeing some other Rajasthani destinations and so forts. It would help to know which, to give the better advice. As it would help logistically to know where you'll be coming from and going to.)

Aha, yes, I see. Udaipur can in fact be quite romantic; but then so can Jaisalmer be. Night in the desert on a safari, ditto, I imagine (I've never done it). Or your better half may be complaining about a sore ass from saddle sore (Those camels aren't said to make for the most comfortable of rides, seriously. The common approach seems to be that a short ride into the desert, then back next morning, is OK; any longer than that, as in a full-day trek or even several, and you may regret it. It's not uncommon I think to have a deal though where you go partly by jeep, then get on a camel somewhere in the desert just for part of the way.)

Again, it's hard to say.

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sam78a

thanks; i know i cant get a firm answer since its very subjective, but i do apprciate your thoughts.

I think I will try to make a itinerary with both and see which one makes more sense. I didnt know Udaipur was touristy (like Jaisalmer)

machadinha

It is yes (or it was when I was there in what, '96 or 97 or so); that doesn't mean it's not worth it.

I was there with my then girlfriend; and she had been before, and so had really wanted to return; and I suppose she found it really romantic (and had her memories to enjoy then, to a time when it was presumably considerably less known), and I think I did so too, to a degree. Those ancient buildings there (and if you like such, and in a Rajasthani style, sort of a mix of the best that both Islamic and Hindu -- and then whatever local styles that may have been thrown into the mix -- architecture have to offer) are really beautiful, there's no question about it. There's something Disneyland about it all and for lack of a better word, certainly.

It doesn't stick with me as a highlight; I think I really found it too touristic. That is however not to say I didn't like it; I have no bad memories of it.

So much of this is to do with did you arrive at the right moment, stay in the right place, had the right food, run into the right people, etc., too though, isn't it. I think it can never be objectified.

As I always say, had you arrived at a place the next day or the day before it (and perhaps not having a headache or the runs or just simply a bad mood or whatever), you might have had the totally different experience.

So in that sense: Just follow your nose, I suppose

Aupmanyav

Where are you coming from and after visit to the city (whichever you choose) where would you go? Udaipur sure is more romantic. Also Jaisalmer requires more time to reach there and return. You do not seem to have much time on hand.

Haylo

Quiet and peaceful? You DO know that Udaipur is in India?

Joking apart, yes compared to Delhi perhaps, it is relatively quiet and peaceful. I found the countryside and villages surrounding Udaipur absolutely lovely; if you're interested in hiking the hills offers some wonderful opportunities.

Which places are on your itinerary either side of this? Jaisalmer is fairly high on my list of places to visit, and I am looking forward to staying in the fort itself, but I've never actually made it there because it's so awkward as a weekend trip from Delhi.

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machadinha

Lonely Planet in its last edition (late 2007, there's a new one set to appear later this year, or just right around now in fact -- its India edition comes out every two years) declares that it will no longer list hotels within Jaisalmer's fort, for the reasons mentioned above.

Not a bad choice, you'd think.

(The fort has in fact been declared a world heritage site or something some time ago, I think. The thing is last time I heard of this it hadn't seemed to inspire much of any action, as it doesn't seem to do with no few of such sites the world over. Sadly, the authorities involved often seem to think of it as just a nice incentive to tourism, without the responsibilities it brings with it.

Again though, I really can't say what the present situation in Jaisalmer is. Maybe and hopefully it's been picked up; I wouldn't be at all surprised if it hadn't. If so and by all accounts, there won't be a fort to speak of in say a few decades from now.)

machadinha

nb Certain guidebooks will regularly get slagged off here, and I'll regularly play the devil's advocate and claim they're not so bad; but it has to be said that Lonely Planet will claim such places are practically undiscovered (the usual phrasing will run something like "on the trail, but still quite quaint" or something); when they really really aren't.

It's just idiotic to claim that places like Udaipur or Varkala or somewhere would still be "off the trail"; they can be nice enough, but they are otherwise really not. And what I blame such guidebooks for is while they can be outdated at the moment of publication, they should really know this. (And then again, I wouldn't want to advocate them advertizing ever-more off-beat places for us to spoil; so in that sense, maybe it's good as it is. But then the OP here thinking Udaipur would be off-beat has one wonder; it was that maybe 20-30 years ago, it certainly won't be now.)

Aupmanyav

Udaipur has many lakes around away from the city, Jai Samand, Raj Samand, Govind Sagar, and a lake where we used to go on hikes on bicycles when it rained. It was in midst of forests with steep banks (Some 14 ksm. away, sorry, I do not remember the name), but that is something for those who would stay in Udaipur for a few days.

Indizen

Udaipur is a nice place to relax and chill out.

samrat.jai.singh

Well I am a great lover of Rajasthan & an ardent fan of both the places.However Udaipur is not that distinct from the cities of Jaipur & Bikaner if Lakes are not considered.Whereas Jaisalmer has a rustic charm,a different league all together,stunning geography & appears golden.It offers a unique experience with its mighty Sonar Qila amidst the sands of Thar.And as said by someone here,nothing can be more romantic than to gaze the stars in the mid of night from a cozy cottage in d desert with someone special,tranquility sails & pleases your soul......

Don't miss this divine experience,go to JAISALMER

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delhiwala

A lot will depend on when are you travelling ?

Jaisalmer will be good in winter months, right now it's hot....

Udaipur lakes have water now and it's been declared the best city to visit by some tourism magazine, so it'll be full of tourists this year..

A night Safari at Jaisalmer will be very good...

And Haylo, it's not as awkward as you are thinking. I have done it.

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sam78a

The plan is this so far for the Rajasthan wing of my trip: 1 day in delhi, 2 days in agra, 2-3 days in Udaipur, 2-3 days in Jodhpur, 1 day again in Delhi. I am hopfully going to see now only the cities of Udaipur-Jodhpur, but also some surrounding areas. The two days in Delhi might be combined, but I think my traveling companion would want the last day in Delhi to get a suitcase and shop. (we will be backpacking)

machadinha

It looks like an OK circuit to me (well, I'm not looking at the logistics now); Jodhpur has a really stunning fort, and then Udaipur by contrast with its lakes and palaces will be very nice as something quite different. The state of the lakes will depend on time of year & that year's monsoon, of course.

There is a well-timed overnight train from Delhi to Jaisalmer and back yes, takes around 17.5 hours. So this would allow to make it a long weekend, if you have one available.