Jaipur/Jodhpur/Udaipur/Jaisalmer/Bikaner - must go but which one??

kirtsyvelvet · Dec 4th, 2007, 18:23

I'm new so hi to all! I'm in the throes of finalising details of the itinerary for our first trip to India. We'll be in Delhi for work then have 12 days free before returning back to Australia.

We'll be hiring a car and driver. We both prefer slow travel and we'll be returning to Delhi frequently on business so hopefully this will be the first a few trips.

One of these destinations must go so that we have enough time to spend a few days in each place. Have undertaken a bit of research by now - I'm leaning towards either Birkaner or Jaipur. If you had to choose, what would you do and why?

Thanks!

beesakopie · Dec 5th, 2007, 10:47

I have personally done the following circuit :

Day One :

Ajmer - Jodhpur by Bus

Arrival in Jodhpur, mid morning. Visit to the Jodhpur fort. Lunch - traditional speciality called "Dal Ghati Churma". Spent the day in Jodhpur.

Night train to Jaisalmer (arrival in Jaisalmer at about 5 / 6 in the morning)

Day 2

Spent in Jaisalmer

Day 3

Camel Safari - camping out for the night in the desert. Visit to Indo-Pak border areas

Day 4

Return to Jaisalmer town. Bus to Khuri (village around Jaisalmer). Return to Jaisalmer town to catch the night train to Jodhpur.

Day 5
Arrival in Jodhpur at 5 AM. Took the first bus out to Ajmer.

I know the above circuit was extremely quick - but I had a limited amount of time available. You can ofcourse plan a more leisurely alternative. Perhaps you could travel to Bikaner from Jaisalmer on your return trip instead of transiting from Jodhpur like I did.

NOTE: You can replace Ajmer by Jaipur - I was in Ajmer because I have family there...

Jaipur: The pink city. Hava Mahal. Palaces. Shopping.
Jodhpur: The Fort. Palaces.
Jaisalmer: The Fort. Camel Safari. Ethnic communities that live near/in the Desert. Sand dunes. Border outposts.
Ajmer : Fort. Centre of Muslim importance (the Dargah)
Bikaner : They have a camel fair...

Cheers.

unclelach · Dec 5th, 2007, 11:16

I suggest a circuit of Delhi, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Udaipur. There are some very beautiful Jain temples in the country outside of Bikaner and Udaipur plus other sights you could reach by car - research is needed.

I preferred Bikaner to Jaipur as the former is smaller, quieter and charming yet has a superb palace and fort. The desert musicians at Bikaner seem more in context there than equivalent entertainers heard in the big city, Jaipur.

Jaipur has heaps to see and much to buy but is rather overpowering because of traffic and noise. As Jaipur is a transport hub for Rajasthan(particularly rail) it could be readily seen on a later visit.

Pushkar outside Ajmer is a "must experience" some time.

beesakopie · Dec 6th, 2007, 02:11

Quote:

Pushkar outside Ajmer is a "must experience" some time.

Oh yes! I think the Desert Fair in Pushkar is round about right now infact...

Aishah · Dec 9th, 2007, 21:51

Pushkar fair was in late November, now finished. My initial reaction to OP was to leave out Bikaner but then I read Unclelach's post and began to wonder. I suppose it is personal preference. I think I liked Amber Fort, Jaipur City Palace, Jantar Mantar better than Bikaner Fort and Palace. Jodhpur Fort I think is one of the best in India...Hard choice really! I like Jaipur and think Bikaner is very 'ordinary'...

beesakopie · Dec 10th, 2007, 06:44

Hey, if its a choice between Jaipur or Bikaner - definitely Jaipur in my book.

The best vegetarian (100% Vegetarian - No eggs, No fish, No Chicken Stock in my Tomato Soup) restaurant is called LMB. Lakshmi Mistan Bhandar. This is one institution that you have to experience!

Sorry about the blooper on Pushkar!

gohome · Dec 10th, 2007, 07:37

Unfortunately we sipped Jaipur so I cannot comment. However, I agree that Jodhpur Fort is an absolute MUST especially the audio tour, it brought tears to my eyes. We also went from Jodhpur for a day trip to Osyian and visited a small but very personalised Jain temple there. An ex-monk explained the temple and the religion, overall a very rewarding experience. We were the only visitors there.

We then travelled to Udaipur via Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh Fort. The Jain temple at Ranakpur was fantastic, but crowded with large bus groups but Kumbhalgarh Fort was deserted. We actually found the Kumbhalgarh region beautiful and discovered that there was a good quality hotel very close by which we thought may have been a good option for an overnight stay. However, the Orchard Retreat Hotel at Ranakpur was just wonderful.

Don't miss the fort at Jodhpur!!

unclelach · Dec 10th, 2007, 07:47

I do agree with beesakopie that the LMB is just so good. Had both my lunches there during my brief stop in Jaipur this year.

I prefer a well lit cafe as my eyesight isn't great but LMB like many Indian restaurants is in semi darkness. Is there a reason for this tradition ?

beesakopie · Dec 10th, 2007, 07:48

Quote:

Jodhpur Fort

In the Jodhpur Fort, there is a place where you can see the palm imprints of some women before they committed Sati... A very powerful symbol...just had to have a photograph there.

The other place in Jodhpur that we went to is the Ummaid Bhavan Palace. An interesting collection of clocks / watches. And cars.

Wouldn't know why restaurants are dim...Haven't actually thought of them that way...

desertrose · Dec 16th, 2007, 15:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by beesakopie

In the Jodhpur Fort, there is a place where you can see the palm imprints of some women before they committed Sati... A very powerful symbol...just had to have a photograph there.

Here this is, were you looking for this one.

machadinha · Dec 16th, 2007, 18:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by unclelach

I prefer a well lit cafe as my eyesight isn't great but LMB like many Indian restaurants is in semi darkness. Is there a reason for this tradition ?

If it serves alcohol, one of many explanations (you will have noticed how India & straightforward explanations don't seem to mix very well?) could be that it stems from the days of prohibition, when apparently one needed to be made to feel like the outright sinner that one was for even getting near the stuff. Even today, the orthodox Hindu (and Muslim) disdain for it may come into play.

beesakopie · Dec 17th, 2007, 14:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by machadinha

If it serves alcohol, one of many explanations ...could be that it stems from the days of prohibition,

Ha! With the Indian version of Al Capone just round the corner...

Another explanation could be that the dim lighting may be to provide "ambiance".

Desertrose: Yes, thats the place I was talking about. Brings up the shivers everytime I think about it...

steven_ber · Dec 17th, 2007, 14:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by beesakopie

In the Jodhpur Fort, there is a place where you can see the palm imprints of some women before they committed Sati... A very powerful symbol...just had to have a photograph there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by desertrose

Here this is, were you looking for this one.

Wow, the amazing things we learn in completely unrelated threads, I missed this when I went to the fort.

julesa · Dec 17th, 2007, 16:09

we took a camel trek out of Khuri village, although our tour operator made us change to this departure point at the last minute and it may not be the best way to do it.

Aishah · Dec 17th, 2007, 16:40

Small warning re camel safaris from Khuri - if your car driver is suggesting this, they can be very overpriced and the car drivers are taking quite a lot of commission. Fair enough, small commission, but often these ones are notoriously high. Khuri touts are at Gadi Sagar circle, duping tourists coming in at the high season time to go straight out to their resorts - horrendously expensive and of course the touts are taking a large cut. This is happening more often to Indian tourists with cars coming in peak times, Diwali and Christmas - New Year.

Dec 4th, 2007, 18:23	#1
kirtsyvelvet Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Australia Posts: 1	Jaipur/Jodhpur/Udaipur/Jaisalmer/Bikaner - must go but which one?? I'm new so hi to all! I'm in the throes of finalising details of the itinerary for our first trip to India. We'll be in Delhi for work then have 12 days free before returning back to Australia. We'll be hiring a car and driver. We both prefer slow travel and we'll be returning to Delhi frequently on business so hopefully this will be the first a few trips. One of these destinations must go so that we have enough time to spend a few days in each place. Have undertaken a bit of research by now - I'm leaning towards either Birkaner or Jaipur. If you had to choose, what would you do and why? Thanks! Last edited by machadinha : Dec 17th, 2007 at 00:58. Reason: fixed title

Dec 5th, 2007, 10:47	#2
beesakopie Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Wallis and Futuna (Republique Francaise) Posts: 82	Ajmer (Jaipur) - Jodhpur - Jaisalmer - Bikaner - Ajmer (Jaipur) circuit I have personally done the following circuit : Day One : Ajmer - Jodhpur by Bus Arrival in Jodhpur, mid morning. Visit to the Jodhpur fort. Lunch - traditional speciality called "Dal Ghati Churma". Spent the day in Jodhpur. Night train to Jaisalmer (arrival in Jaisalmer at about 5 / 6 in the morning) Day 2 Spent in Jaisalmer Day 3 Camel Safari - camping out for the night in the desert. Visit to Indo-Pak border areas Day 4 Return to Jaisalmer town. Bus to Khuri (village around Jaisalmer). Return to Jaisalmer town to catch the night train to Jodhpur. Day 5 Arrival in Jodhpur at 5 AM. Took the first bus out to Ajmer. I know the above circuit was extremely quick - but I had a limited amount of time available. You can ofcourse plan a more leisurely alternative. Perhaps you could travel to Bikaner from Jaisalmer on your return trip instead of transiting from Jodhpur like I did. NOTE: You can replace Ajmer by Jaipur - I was in Ajmer because I have family there... Jaipur: The pink city. Hava Mahal. Palaces. Shopping. Jodhpur: The Fort. Palaces. Jaisalmer: The Fort. Camel Safari. Ethnic communities that live near/in the Desert. Sand dunes. Border outposts. Ajmer : Fort. Centre of Muslim importance (the Dargah) Bikaner : They have a camel fair... Cheers.

Dec 5th, 2007, 11:16	#3
unclelach Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: melbourne, australia Posts: 191	See Bikaner I suggest a circuit of Delhi, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Udaipur. There are some very beautiful Jain temples in the country outside of Bikaner and Udaipur plus other sights you could reach by car - research is needed. I preferred Bikaner to Jaipur as the former is smaller, quieter and charming yet has a superb palace and fort. The desert musicians at Bikaner seem more in context there than equivalent entertainers heard in the big city, Jaipur. Jaipur has heaps to see and much to buy but is rather overpowering because of traffic and noise. As Jaipur is a transport hub for Rajasthan(particularly rail) it could be readily seen on a later visit. Pushkar outside Ajmer is a "must experience" some time.

Dec 9th, 2007, 21:51	#5
Aishah She-who-must-be-obeyed! Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Jaisalmer Posts: 4,450	Pushkar fair was in late November, now finished. My initial reaction to OP was to leave out Bikaner but then I read Unclelach's post and began to wonder. I suppose it is personal preference. I think I liked Amber Fort, Jaipur City Palace, Jantar Mantar better than Bikaner Fort and Palace. Jodhpur Fort I think is one of the best in India...Hard choice really! I like Jaipur and think Bikaner is very 'ordinary'... __________________ "Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards."

Dec 10th, 2007, 07:47	#8
unclelach Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: melbourne, australia Posts: 191	LMB Restaurant in Jaipur I do agree with beesakopie that the LMB is just so good. Had both my lunches there during my brief stop in Jaipur this year. I prefer a well lit cafe as my eyesight isn't great but LMB like many Indian restaurants is in semi darkness. Is there a reason for this tradition ?

Dec 10th, 2007, 06:44	#6
beesakopie Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Wallis and Futuna (Republique Francaise) Posts: 82	Hey, if its a choice between Jaipur or Bikaner - definitely Jaipur in my book. The best vegetarian (100% Vegetarian - No eggs, No fish, No Chicken Stock in my Tomato Soup) restaurant is called LMB. Lakshmi Mistan Bhandar. This is one institution that you have to experience! Sorry about the blooper on Pushkar!

Dec 10th, 2007, 07:37	#7
gohome Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Australia Posts: 71	Unfortunately we sipped Jaipur so I cannot comment. However, I agree that Jodhpur Fort is an absolute MUST especially the audio tour, it brought tears to my eyes. We also went from Jodhpur for a day trip to Osyian and visited a small but very personalised Jain temple there. An ex-monk explained the temple and the religion, overall a very rewarding experience. We were the only visitors there. We then travelled to Udaipur via Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh Fort. The Jain temple at Ranakpur was fantastic, but crowded with large bus groups but Kumbhalgarh Fort was deserted. We actually found the Kumbhalgarh region beautiful and discovered that there was a good quality hotel very close by which we thought may have been a good option for an overnight stay. However, the Orchard Retreat Hotel at Ranakpur was just wonderful. Don't miss the fort at Jodhpur!!

Dec 17th, 2007, 16:09	#14
julesa Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: melbourne australia Posts: 291	we took a camel trek out of Khuri village, although our tour operator made us change to this departure point at the last minute and it may not be the best way to do it.

Dec 17th, 2007, 16:40	#15
Aishah She-who-must-be-obeyed! Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Jaisalmer Posts: 4,450	Small warning re camel safaris from Khuri - if your car driver is suggesting this, they can be very overpriced and the car drivers are taking quite a lot of commission. Fair enough, small commission, but often these ones are notoriously high. Khuri touts are at Gadi Sagar circle, duping tourists coming in at the high season time to go straight out to their resorts - horrendously expensive and of course the touts are taking a large cut. This is happening more often to Indian tourists with cars coming in peak times, Diwali and Christmas - New Year.

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