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Hotel and visits in Amritsar: help!


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Old Mar 13th, 2008, 18:23   #1
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Hotel and visits in Amritsar: help!

Hello!
Next sumer I´m staying a couple of days in Amritsar on my way to Leh, and I need help in a couple of issues:

1.Hotel. I have been recommended the Ritz Plaza, but I have seen that it´s a bit far from the Golden Temple. Am I right? Has any of you stayed there? On the other hand I´read in the forum good reviews of the CJ Hotel... and it is closer...

2.Border ceremony in Attari: is it worth seeing? Do you know waht time is it? Every day?

Thank you!
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Old Mar 13th, 2008, 21:10   #2
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As for hotel, that will depend what you're looking for. You mention the "Ritz Plaza", which sounds like a pretty posh place. In most Indian cities there will only be a few 5 star hotels, often not centrally located.

However, there are at least 5-10 different hotels in the blocks surrounding the Golden Temple, not to mention the pilgrims' guesthouse inside the temple itself. These will be of varying quality. CJ is supposed to be a good midrange option. I stayed in the foreigners' section of the temple guesthouse - it was OK, very, very basic, though (dorm style, toilets at the opposite end of the courtyard, group showers). There seem to be nicer rooms at the Golden Temple, but these are reserved for Sikh families (and I got the sense that the really posh one is for Sikh NRI's only).

I didn't do the border ceremony, but it's almost impossible not to encounter touts filling share jeeps around the exit to the Golden Temple. I think the jeeps leave around 3? This is easy to figure out when you arrive - just ask pretty much anyone. Lots of people around the G.T. speak English.
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Old Mar 13th, 2008, 21:49   #3
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Point 2:
You mention 'attari' -- do you mean wagah border by any chance? I know there is ceremony at wagah border. If you want to see some patriotic fervor on both sides of the border and good choreographed show, then go ahead!

Enjoy --
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Old Mar 13th, 2008, 21:53   #4
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Wagah and Attari are like "tomayto" and "tomahto" -- same ceremony, different people will call it by the names of two different towns, split by partition. I'm confused about whether Wagah is the name for the Pakistani side and Attari the Indian side, or whether Attari refers to a different village a few kilometers away from Pakistani Wagah.

Either name will get you into one of those shared jeeps near the Golden Temple, bound for the same place.

And yes, it is every day.

Last edited by the opoponax : Mar 13th, 2008 at 21:59. Reason: fixed geographical details
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Old Mar 15th, 2008, 19:02   #5
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I have stayed both in CJ Int.and in Le Golden.Both are pretty much the same standard and Golden Tower should one in the same category too.All of these`re very close to Durbar Sahib(GOLDEN TEMPLE).
The ceremony at the Wagah border is daily and the time depends on the season.
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Old Mar 15th, 2008, 19:28   #6
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Originally Posted by the opoponax View Post
Wagah and Attari are like "tomayto" and "tomahto" -- same ceremony, different people will call it by the names of two different towns, split by partition. I'm confused about whether Wagah is the name for the Pakistani side and Attari the Indian side, or whether Attari refers to a different village a few kilometers away from Pakistani Wagah.
Attari is in Amritsar district.
Wagah is the place across the border in Pak.
The border itself is often referred to as the Wagah border.
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Old Mar 15th, 2008, 22:22   #7
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Guidebooks will also refer to it as the "Attari border ceremony".

As I said, I've heard it described both ways, and both will get you there. Honestly you could probably go up to the many, many jeep touts asking for the Nintendo Border Ceremony and end up in the right place. There is only one, and these folks are quite intent on getting you there. I think I had a harder time avoiding it entirely than I would have if I'd wanted to go but not known the name of the town.
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Old Mar 17th, 2008, 02:22   #8
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In fact, the border in India is called Wagah border and in Pakistan Attari border,as is also the case of the border near Ferozepore in India it`s called Hussainiwalla border and in Pakistan Ganda Singhwalla.The crossing point remains the same.
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Old Mar 17th, 2008, 02:39   #9
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amritsar

there are many hotels within 5 minutes walk from golden temple.
Ritz and CJ are pricy meant for NRI..I stayed about 2 blocks and paid only Rs800, a year ago and it was a very nice place, think it was hotel sitara nivas. there were others right next to it also so there are plenty choices. surely there must be many in town away from temple.
Yes Wagha border is a nice visit, and then jaliya wala bagh is also a place to visit.
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Old Mar 17th, 2008, 02:43   #10
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border ceremony

just a tip: We tried to see the ceremony but missed it by 20 min as we thought it was AT sunset and it turned out to be JUST BEFORE sunset. However, it was still very interesting just seeing the border guards and their interaction with the crowds. (they are btw incredibly Tall - and I am 6ft so for me to say, damn they are tall is soemthing).
so regarding the question on whether it is worth it , despite having not seen it I would say yes based on just seeing the last couple of minutes.Also, if you are there for a "couple of days" you will get bored if you are not going to see it. The Golden Temple is brilliant and well worth seeing but any more than 1.5 days there is WELL too long for Amritsar.
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Old Mar 17th, 2008, 03:07   #11
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Jalianwala Bagh is within easy walking distance of the Golden Temple, and is definitely worth a visit.

I liked Amritsar and Punjab a lot and really felt like the day and a half I spent there was not long enough - though much longer than that and I would have wanted to go further afield and see more than just Amritsar.
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Old Mar 17th, 2008, 03:56   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malvin View Post
In fact, the border in India is called Wagah border and in Pakistan Attari border,as is also the case of the border near Ferozepore in India it`s called Hussainiwalla border and in Pakistan Ganda Singhwalla.The crossing point remains the same.
The Indian crossing is on Attari Road hence why some people refer to it as Attari. The Indian immingration stamp states - Amritsar Attari Road.

Attari is a village and home of the famous Attari wale sardars (nobles).

There is new accomodation within the Godlen Temple complex. It is near Baba Atal Gurdwara (big tall building like Tower of Pisa). It is run by the Nishkam Sewak Jatha from Birmingham (UK). The building is very clean (unlike the other accomodation). See if they will give you a room.

Go to Ram Bagh (aka Company Bagh) as well. A superb example of how to destroy a old garden. It has a summer palace you can visit and an excellent entrance way (Deori) made of what looked like sandstone, which has had roads built around it so it is isolated.
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Old Mar 17th, 2008, 04:16   #13
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The new guesthouse Shere refers to is probably not open to non-Sikh white western tourists.

If you are white and you want to stay at the temple (and you are not traveling with a Sikh family and/or don't have Sikh "cred" of some kind or other), you will be put in with the rest of the white backpackers, in a little dormitory area within the main guesthouse. It's honestly not that bad, but the Ritz Plaza it ain't.

It's important to realize that accommodation at the Golden Temple is meant to enable Sikhs to travel and visit their holy places, not as a cushy tourist lodge. Many genuine pilgrims are simply given mattresses to sleep on in the courtyard of the main guesthouse. If you want luxury, book a hotel room.
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Old Mar 17th, 2008, 04:16   #14
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We stayed at the Hotel Royal Inn Hotel www.hotelroyalinn.in 91-183-2551800 info@hotelroyalinn.in It was fine - the room was small but very clean and GREAT hot water and bathroom - its very friendly and 5 mins walk to Golden Temple. We had trouble getting accom in Amritsar, many didn't respond to emails and so on - these guys were good and its well located, they will pick up from train if you want.

We also organised the border crossing trip with them - it was probably more expensive, but it was much easier... you have to leave the hotel at 3. Good car and driver -

they drop you off before the gates, you walk up and join the throng and then when the gates open everyone RUNS the 500m or so to the actual border... its wild!!! But as it turned out there is a tourist stand - which you should use as its much better positioned, and then separate mens and womens stands, unless its a particularly packed day there should be no trouble getting a seat,

You must do it - it was one of the highlights of our trip - completely mad in a very Indian way, scarily patriotic, like a big party with soldiers (can't really explain it you have to see and HEAR it)!

THe Golden Temple is sublime - truly sublime, and will take about 3 hours of just quietly wandering around... the atmosphere inside is one of great friendliness and gentleness, and the constant chanting of the book is soothing.

Jallianwallabagh is one of the most genuinely moving memorials I have ever seen, spend an hour or so just sitting in the lovely gardens and chatting to the other people you meet there - a beautiful place,

Apart from that we wandered around the market a bit, ate great food - I can't remember the name of the restaurant but it is next to a chocolate place called chocolate heaven or something like that... sorry, it sounds hard to find but if you ask you will find the chocolate place and then the restaurant next door.

The street food is fantastic - had the best kulcha in a little dhaba type place opposite the entrance to the GT.

We were only there for a day and a half - got the train up and back from Delhi, and would have like more time - but what we did was great.....
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Old Mar 17th, 2008, 04:19   #15
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One of the things I wish I'd had more time for is checking out the fantastic Amritsar street food. I spent so long in the temple that I ended up eating most of my meals in the langar. Which is also a must-do.
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