Can I go to Amritsar?

TIANJARA

According to the Lonely Planet guide tourists are not allowed within 50km of the India- Pakistan border due to all the strife. Does this mean Amritsar is out of bounds

steven_ber

Yes you can visit Amritsar.

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Yes you can visit Amritsar. from there you can even travel up to the Wagah border for a daily border closing performance by the Indian and Pakistani military.

TIANJARA

Thanks for the info. A bit off- topic but do you know of a good midrange hotel in Amritsar?

newjamie

I stayed at the Grand Hotel in Amritsar - rooms were A/C, clean and hotel was decent enough. The owner and staff are v. friendly and organised the trip to the border and a nightime trip to Golden Temple for a very reasonable price.

We chose it because it was right opposite the train station and we had an early morning train to catch.

Recommended!

delhiwala

For a unique experience, you may stay at the Golden Temple guest house itself.

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TIANJARA

Now THAT would be an experience. I actually visited the Golden Temple in about 1973 but I was there during the day. Has anyone any info On staying there and is it really safe in this current environment, especially with a wife. Not sure if I'd be brave enough to stay the night but a night time visit sounds good. Can anyone supply info on that.
Thanks in advance

delhiwala

In the present situation, staying at Gurudwara rooms will be more safe. Staying is easy, you go to the designated booking counter in the Golden Temple Premises, if the rooms are vacant, they'll give you a room.

Night time visit is very very good idea, At night time, Gugu Grant Sahab is moved in a procession to the Other building. It's a very nice experience to witness and participate in this procession.

somnath biswas

What else one can visit at Amritsar barring Wagha Boarder?

machadinha

Be aware though that as far as I know no leather articles are allowed in there (there'll be a storage facility for them). I'd assume and think no smoking or drinking either, but can't be sure off the top of my head.

Also, there's been some heavy rioting in the Punjab these past days, I don't know about the current situation (it was first reported on here only a day ago I see now), but it's probably a good idea to keep an eye on the local news: Travel disruptions due to unrest in Punjab .

Apparently, this was instigated by a violent incident between two Sikh sects in Austria (of all places). I have no idea how this would reflect on staying in the Golden Temple right now, or what sect they may belong to, or how those rivalries work, or anything.

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delhiwala

Yes no alcohal and smoking at Golden temple.

A little backgrounder on the recent strife. Orthodox Sikhs say that after Guru Govind Singh Ji declared the Holy Book as the only guru for the times to come, ther can not be any living guru. However, few people, mainly dalit Sikhs (so called lower caste sikhs) rever some living gurs as well. The present issue is because of this only.

Amritsar will be safe, as the problem is mainly in Doaba region i.e. in Jullundhar and Kapurthala.

Dear Somnath, Amritsar has Golden temple, Jaliawalal bagh, Durgiana Temple and Wagah and that's it.

tsk1979

Misleading news.
There are no sects in sikhism, though various casts are there.
Punjab and Haryana have various Deras, headed by respective "Godmen".
These dera followers include both hindus and sikhs, and near Malerkotla side some deras have Muslim followers as well.

In Austria, the head of a popular dera was attacked. His second in command(who was piped to ascend him to the dera seat) was killed in the attack.

Now coming to the Golden Temple, its the highest seat of religion for all sikhs of the world.

PS: In sikhism there are no more living Gurus. Sikhs have 10 Gurus, the last one of whom was Guru Gobind Singh. After his demise the Guruship passed on the Shri Guru Granth Sahib, which is the holy book of Sikhs. Sikhs are supposed to bow only to Guru Granth Sahib and no living Guru.
there is no orthodox and unorthodox thing in that.
All people who call them as sikhs whether unorthodox or orthodox bow to Guru Granth Sahib.
As for orthodoxy, there are primarily 3 types. Totally liberal(people with cut hair, like yours truly), Middle path, who keep hair but do not follow the 5Ks, and Amritdhari Sikhs, who follow the sikhism "Rehat" or means fully.

Irrespective of what type of Sikh you are you bow to Guru Granth Sahib.

As for Deras, they follow their own "Guru" or godman. Each Dera has a separate Guru.

Now for the clash. MEdia may call it clash between sects, but it was actually a clash between Sikhs if Vienna and Dera followers.
The bone of contention was similar to Dera Sachha sauda incident. In that incident also it was said the the Dera head insulted sikh gurus by impersonating Guru Gobind Singh.
In this incident, the place where the Dera Guru was present, Guru Granth Sahib was also present(it is claimed so).
Now in sikhism, if in a holy place Guru Granth Sahib is present, you can only bow to the holy book. You cannot bow to any person etc., in the presence of the holy book because the holy book is the Guru. This is the basic tenet of Sikhism along with the concept of no idol worship and one god.
In Vienna it is claimed that people used to touch feet of the living Dera Guru in presence of the holy book thereby insulting the holy book. To draw a parallel, imagine if Tirupati people claimed that the Pope came to temple, and people ignored idols and bowed to the pope(I know it a very silly analogy, but you get the point).
So radical sikhs decided to attack.

Another theory being floated is that the attack was planned by a rival dera who wanted to curb the influence of this dera.

Now a little history. Traditionally there have been no clashes between Dera's and Sikhs, and they have functioned orthognally. Kind of you don't trouble us, we don't trouble you. But there have been clashed between different deras, violent ones also.
In recent times as Dera popularity grows, dera followers are becoming a political force also. When politics and religion mix, its a deadly cocktail.
The violence helps the radical sikhs, who may be looking for an opportunity to come to forefront again. Recently in punjab people have been voting for development, and radicalism is on the vane.
Along with radicals, it also polarizes the Dalit vote. Any leader who can claim to be the "representative" of one particular caste, will get sizable vote share.
In the end its all the question of power. Religion is just an excuse.

Now the last part which most people do not know. Why did deras rise and why are most followers Dalits?
The answer lies in casteism. Even though casteism is very taboo in sikh tenets, it exists, and just like rest of india Dalits have been very badly treated. The religion says equality for all, but in many villages Dalit Sikhs were not allowed to conduct marriages etc., in the normal Gurudwara. Therefore in many villages there were "upper caste" Gurudwaras and lower caste ones.
This was a catalyst in the rise of the Dera Culture. Its similar to the way Buddhism attracted Dalits all over India, and Christianity still attracts people in backward areas.

Now finally, is there a solution? Sadly no. Such an expolosive situation is any politicians wet dream. I can imagine the entire political class of Punjab having multiple orgasms at the though of violence and strife. As for the common people, they are all to keen to burn buses and trains. Many of them don't even know the name of the godman who died.

For now the situation is simmering down, and It will soon become confined to pockets of Doaba and some small agitations, but if you are travelling to Punjab this week, I suggest you delay your plans by a week. Till now protestors have just damaged property, there have been no killings, but you don't want to take a risk, do you..

Coming to Amritsar, when situation is calm, you can go to Amritsar. Take care not to smoke near the temple, or just about anywhere in the city. Sikhism frowns upon smoking very much.
IF you are a foodie, don't forget to try the famous Amritsari Machhi(Fish). MAny members here can tell you the best places to enjoy the culinary delicacies of the city. This city can be safetly called the cholestrol capitol of the world

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thirdreel

I suppose this is as good a thread as any for this question since two things have been mentioned:

I'm thinking of getting an overnight train that arrives in Amritsar early morning, (7:35 from Haridwar) then leaving that night (probably 21:30, or maybe around midnight). Suppose I could get a room at the gurdwara when I arrive, take a bucket-bath and maybe a nap, leave my bags there while I see the temple, then get them when I am ready to leave? Of course I would make a donation for the room.

I'm also wondering if it would be crazy overload to visit the temple in the morning/noon, then take a bus or auto to Wagha for the afternoon, then back to catch the train. Would that be doable?

tsk1979

In summers it would be crazy, as the weather is very very hot.
As for the room, there is a nominal charge for AC rooms(around 200rs), though sometimes 500rs "Security charges" are taken at beginning, and then returned when you leave room.

For the Golden temple, often there is a huge line to the inner sanctum, and be prepared to wait 1-2 hours morning and evening. Noon times are lean times with minimal waiting.

But if there is a festival, or Sankraant(1st of the month), then expect 3-4 hours waiting too.

Wagah border is a good 1.5-2hr drive by bus/auto from the city, and most people go there to see the retreat in the evening

vkochar

Glad to see you here Tanveer !! ( tsk1979 )

Amritsar is a beautiful place to visit. I am originally from Amritsar.

The food here is amongst the best in the country and if someone likes - Tandoori Chicken / Butter Chicken & Sweets & Fish - this place is a haven for you.

The Golden temple is amogst one of the most popular places to visit with foreigners.

Apart from Golden temple, a must see if the Wagah Border where everyday a ceremony at 5 pm takes place between the Indian & Pakistani guards. Its a crazy place filled with cheer from both sides.

Then there are the lovely markets filled with plenty to buy.

You can look up some good deals at tripadvisor for hotels and B&B.

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